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GMC Yukon and Yukon Denali Problems

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  • big22sbig22s Posts: 2
    I HAVE A 2004 YUKON XL DINALI. I HAVE PUT ON A DIFFERENT SET OF WHEELS AND TIERS.
    THE ORIG, TIRES HAVE LESS THAN 100 MILES ON THEM. THEY ARE IN PERFECT CONDITION.
    THE ONLT CATCH, (IF YOU CALL IT ONE), IS THAT I WILL SELL YOU THE WHEEL AND TIES AS A COMPLETE SET. THE WHEELS ARE TOO IN PREFECT CONDITION. IF INTERESTED, PLEASE E-MAIL ME AT ...ONETAP1@AOL.COM......THANK YOU, TIMOTHY
  • founderfounder Posts: 48
    I'm still at a lost for a good full size SUV. The Denali looks good, but seeing all these problems scares me. The GM employee discount for everyone program has got me set to get an 05 Denali, but I'm not sure. The Navigator isn't worth the extra grand in my opinion, the Escalade is a Denali and not worth shelling out an extra 8 grand. The Range Rover is to costly considering it has problems as well. A freind got one for the name more then anything and has had a host of electrical problems. The QX56 is my favorite, but that truck has major mechanical issues. The Lexus LX 470 seems to be the best of the bunch in terms of quality, but the designed is dated and that truck is over 70 grand now. Some one help with suggestions. Like most here I'm busy with work and family and the last thing I need is problem transportation.
  • frank310frank310 Posts: 44
    Check the bulb sockets on rear tail lights. You might notice rust in one of them, that's what I had on my 05 DXL. If thats not it then you might need the wire harness in the steering column, had that on a 1982 Monte Carlo.
  • when you had this bearing problem... did it make you SERVICE RIDE CONTROL warning appear?
  • jalahjalah Posts: 1
    RE: Grinding noises...

    I too have a 2001 Denali doing the very same thing. I pulled into the Dealership out of town while traveling. They informed me that the wrong type of oil was used in the transfer case. The 2001 model is the only model that uses ATF type 3. It is recommended for the 2001 model only. When a different oil is used in the transfer case service, it dries out when heated and ruins the clutch system within the transfer case. The filter in the transfer case gets clogged which heats up and creates the grinding of the clutch. I just had my clutch system fixed and have proof of the service where they put the wrong oil in the transfer case. It has only been doing this for 3 months but came out to $2000 to fix. I hope this helps you. Get a sample of the oil and the clogged filter. We are seeing if this is covered under warranty or errors and ommissions by the dealership.
  • jp5888jp5888 Posts: 3
    I have an 01 that had the same problem. They applied an updated computer patch and the problem went away.
  • wally0620wally0620 Posts: 1
    I believe that this is a factory defect in your vehicle if it has a GEN III engine and an electronic throttle body. The is a Service Bulletin ID # 1580607 that explains the problem. In simple terms, they used an old intake manifold with an extra IAC passage and this unused passage causes the whistle. Probably would have cost $1.98 per vehicle to design one specifically for this engine.
  • dlevensdlevens Posts: 2
    your problem is more than likely carbon buildup in the throttle bore. you can carefully clean the bore with the reccomended GM cleaner, or go to a local lube place where they usually have a kit to clean it($30?).
    Good Luck
  • dlevensdlevens Posts: 2
    Monroe now makes replacement shocks for the Denali. Be careful to get the correct GM part number, because Monroe makes 2 different flavors for both the front and rear.
  • nwyukonnwyukon Posts: 5
    Reverse on my 2001 Denali just went out at 67000 miles. At the dealer now. Anyone know what to do besides "bite the bullet?"
  • bobrmdbobrmd Posts: 1
    I just traded in my 2001 yukon denali. I only had 21k miles on it and went through 2 sets of brakes and drums with only light use. There is a problem with the antilock brake sensor that had been subject to a recall in canada. I had this problem repaired at my own cost since this recall is not in effect in the US but is under investigation. Apparently, road salt causes corrosion of the antilock sensor which in turn causes the antilock brake mechanism to engage at slow speeds.
    Well needless to say I did not buy another GMC denali.
  • corvaircorvair Posts: 1
    We have similar problem....paid dealship $300 for new AC clutch, seals and belt and GUESS WHAT.....Same problem NEXT DAY....Rear AC is out and just waiting for Front to go out....ANY SUGGESTIONS on how you corrected your problems....Appreciate any help...THANKS and Many Thanks for any help.
  • mlemasmlemas Posts: 2
    We have a 99 delali and we have had starting probs spread over a couple of years. All related systems ck out ok. Last action taken was a starter relay even though it cked out ok. Battery always cks good, starter cks good, etc. Yesterday after a couple of months of no starting probs, it happened again. If we leave it alone for a fews hours, it will then start up like a champ. The dealer mechanics don't have a clue. Pls let me know if you have similar symtoms, especially if yours starts up after a few hours.
    Thx
  • mlemasmlemas Posts: 2
    Just signed up to find out if anyone was having probs starting Denali's. We have 99 w 119K miles, travel a lot.
    We have EXACTLY the same prob you describe. W/o repeating details, we have had 3 tows, only to have it start when it gets to dealer. If we leave it set for a few hrs, it starts. For the record it hasnt happened in AZ, i.e. very dry. It has happened 5 times in NoCA and once in SoCA. Just happened here (NoCA) yesterday. It is humid but nothing like FL.
    Have you had any more info re the prob? Has your dealer called GMC about this? It sounds like something they should have data on.
    Thx
  • My 99 Denali could only make it to 70,000 miles. I had 7 repairs between 60,000 and 70,000 miles including being towed twice. The starter, ignition switch and distributor cap all were bad not including all the other issues. I felt very unsafe and ended up calling the GMC telemarketer hot line and that was a joke. Someone is making a lot of money on these constant repairs. I gave up the fight and went import shopping. I now have a Pathfinder. Good luck and stay safe.
  • ssbmgssbmg Posts: 7
    I've had the same idling problems for about 2 years now and just blamed it on my aftermarket dual exhaust. As a matter of fact, several mechanics suggested that I take it to a performance shop to have the computer recalibrated to compensate for "backflow" which in turn was supposedly causing my rough idling. After a ton of research, I decided to go the throttle body route and look into having it replaced. Before spending hundreds on that I just wanted to see if it needed to be cleaned. I bought a $6 can of throttle body cleaner at Pep Boys and now my idling problems are GONE! Be forewarned, my engine wouldn't run with the air intake hose disconnected (as the instructions on the cleaner suggest) so I had to spray the cleaner, reconnect the hose, and then run the engine for a couple minutes to flush out the cleaner, then repeat about 6 times (until the can was empty). All in all took me about 30 minutes but for $6 well worth it. Hope this helps.
  • I just bought a 2003 GMC DENALI- 45,000 miles. This was on thursday. Today is Saturday and the sevice stability light came on already! The manual says to shut off truck and turn back on. If message goes away then its ok, if it stays then bring to dealer immediatly. Well it hasn't come back on YET!! They say it could be a problem with stabilitrak. Anyone have similar experience?? I hope the light doesn't come back on but it's alittle scary!!!!! Also I'm not sure what service was done to this vehicle by previous owner any way to find out. If I can't find out What service should I do besides an oil change? HOPE I DIDN'T BUY A :lemon: THANKS FOR ANY REPLY!!
  • dvsdvs Posts: 5
    I had a 2003 with the same problem. The dealer sent it to the place who put in the Autostart, saying they used the wrong circuit and it was causing an overload and shutting down the circuit. The shop replaced the module with an updated autostart module. They told me there was nothing wrong with where they wired in the module.
    Sounded like crap to me. After a while it started comming back on. They diagnosed it was the front Differantial and replaced the bearings. After the 3rd time replacing the bearings I traded it for a new one. The problem was never fixed that I know of.

    Now I am back to changing out the front differantial on my new one after changing the bearings once. 72,000 miles and had a new trans and front diff bearings changed so far. Now a new front diff. Good thing I bought the extended warrenty.
  • dvsdvs Posts: 5
    I am going thru that now with my 2004. started at about 65000 miles. Already changed the tires and it did not fix it. The dealer changed the bearings in the front Differantial, didn't fix it just added to the confusion because now I have a drag on the truck and it the steering is very unstable. They are changing the whole differantial now to fix it. That will bring me back to the shake problem to deal with.
  • i have 2005 denali with 6000 miles. at 2000 miles i also started experiencing that annoying rattling noise, it almost sounds like a boat motor. it seems to go away after you get above 40 mph. but after getting to highway speeds if you let off of the accelerator and go back onto it you can definitely hear the growl/roar/rattle.

    i have had it to the dealer twice in the last 2 weeks, they indicated that they adjusted a backlash device within the exhaust. it still is not right and for a 52k vehicle i will expect them to find the problem.

    any experience, or comments on this matter would be helpful.
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