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GMC Yukon and Yukon Denali Problems

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  • roughd1roughd1 Posts: 12
    The tires are in good condition and recently rotated but I'll have them checked. Thanks.
  • rvanrrvanr Posts: 1
    i notice there is space for a second battery. is it possible to install a deep cell battery for accessory use using an A/B switch without harming the electronics on vehicle or voiding the warranty? i have used this system on boats but dont know if it translates to autos.

    also, my owners manual was stolen (looks like a purse) dealer wants $85.00 for new one..is it downloadable?? on the web?..
    thanks
    rvanr
  • First answer yes you can get a second battery for that spot. Dealer install is about $500 they may not know what you are talking about tell them its the police package. If you want to do it yourself I have the part numbers:
    25825642 Cable
    15888242 F Cable
    14005061 Retainer
    11509853 Screw

    Second answer, go to gmc.com and get an account. You can download the owners manual from that site.
  • We had the same air conditioning problem on our 2005 Denali. The dealer stated they had to replace the "actuators" that direct the air to the driver side. Fortunately, these were covered by our extended warranty.
  • sounds like your voltage regulator is no good.it's inside your alternator.
  • the denali uses alot electrical components which is almost as bad as having a sound system.i've decided that i will upgrade my alternator to higher amps not voltage.having higher amps allows more power usage.i'm trying to allow the battery to charge without having too much drain. my 2005 denali dies if i dont turn it on for three days.as im driving i can actually see the voltage drop every so often.alternator is working perfect battery is good but like i said maybe the denali requires more amps.i will post and update.
  • My 2005 Yukon Denali drives well except when cruising at constant speed. The vehicle occasionally bucks/shudders repeatedly until I either press down the pedal to accelerate or let off the gas. This happens at low speed as well as on the highway. Not sure if this is a fuel injection or tranny issue. It does not happen all of the time but enough to cause concern.

    Any help to troubleshoot this problem would be appreciated.
  • circlewcirclew Posts: 8,372
    Make sure you try fuel injector cleaner, change the fuel filter and make sure the gas cap holds pressure.

    Regards,
    OW
  • I bought fuel injector cleaner today. Also found out the fuel filter is on the fuel pump in the gas tank. At 80k miles, I may have to bring it in to get checked out. Any other input?
  • circlewcirclew Posts: 8,372
    No, your fuel filter is on the fuel line just outside your gas tank. Change it ASAP. Jiffy Lube can do it for you if need be.

    Where is the Fuel Filter located in a 2005 GMC Yukon

    Regards,
    OW
  • Up until Last week my girl has been great! I have the every now and then turning off and on again by themselves issues But nothing that has kept the vehicle immobile. I always use my remote start and keyfob to enter and lock the car, so I go to get in my car after leaving a store and turn the key and No turn over. No clicking, the radio was still on but the check engine light was on. I call onstar and they send out someone to jump battery, No charge with the jump so its towed to the dealership. Dealership says battery is completely draining and I need it replaced. They also tell me that when they put the new battery in that the care wouldnt turn over and they had to bang on the starter with a hammer and turn the ignition at the same time to get it to start. OK WTF ! Then he tells me Im probably going to need a new Starter soon at $700 + . So today Im out shopping again and the exact thing happens, NO START. A nice nice was in the parking lot and I asked him to please bang on the starter to see if we could get it going. That doesnt work and the battery is FULLY charged. I called the dealership and they say have it towed to them and they will look at it. IM NOT HAPPY and IM not taking it back to them. I remembered a service guy telling me once that the security autostart can shut down the entire car and if it happens it needs to be reset. Manually lock the car, wait ten minutes and open the car with the key not the keyfob. SHE STARTED !!!!! But now Im very confused on what the problem is.... Do I really need a new starter??? Is there a problem with the autostart or security system that killing the car????? The dealership says they cant help me unless the car is having the problem while its there so they can see the code. Well how the heck am I going to accomplish that, I dont know when the car is going to decide to DIE. This is bullcrap and I know the dealership has seen these problems before, Im not the only owner that this has happened to. So frustrating to pay 65K for a vehicle and this BS happens !!!!
  • Dealership is telling me a need a new starter, I have 48k on an 07 . I just replaced the battery $240 at dealership. Thanks
  • There is a TSB and a recall for this issue. It is a programming flaw in the computer. If you never had the software fixed it is covered under the recall. Tell your dealer to review recalls on this vehicle. The fix is free under the recall!! A reputable dealer service manager would have checked this first! You can use another GM dealer if you are not happy with your dealership. Chevy dealers can deal with the issue since it is cross platform to the Silverado as well and they have access to the fix. Good luck.
  • My yukon is sitting much lower in the front than what it should be. I switched the front shocks out with top of the line shocks and it raised it very little and the ride in the front is still rough. Should I be looking at the coil springs next?

    Also, I have always had a squeaking in my front breaks. I have changed the front pads with top of the line ceramic brakes from NAPA and I also put new rotors on the front as well. I still have the squeaking, but I was abe to get rid of the shimmy from the old rotors being warped. I was told that I may want to get shims that fit between the pad and the caliper? Any suggestions?

    Thanks in advance, Joe
  • Well after twice last week of the truck not starting again, It was towed to the dealership and the starter was replaced. I asked them about the TSB and any recall and I was told ( with an attitude ) that NO TSB or recall existed for my truck and I didn't know what I was talking about. So my 2007 with 48K so far has had the battery and starter replaced. Im really starting to think my truck is possessed and I hope this isnt the begining of problem after problem.
  • jim53jim53 Posts: 109
    I am also having problems with the battery in my 07 Yukon Denali. If you leave the key in the ignition with the radio running even for only 5 min the car won't start and needs to be jumped. Is this a common problem? This has happened at least 3 times recently.
  • I had a similar problem and after the third battery in about 2-1/2 yrs, I came across a service bulletin that was mainly issued for the truck, but applied to the Yukons as well (I also have an '07). Since I took my vehicle to the dealership and asked them to perform this SB, it's been okay (yes, I had to find this and tell them to do it. I think they only look at recalls and that's it) This site lists the mutliple SBs for the '07's. http://www.4door.com/tsb.htm. Good Luck!
  • There is a recall for the computer programming and 2 TSBs! One for pinched wire in the headliner and a second for wire faults in the right rear passenger door. These are for 2007 Yukon Denalis. Your dealer needs to learn that GM is having problems and customers expect a little respect before they are talked down to. My battery was damaged by the wires shorting out and was able to demonstrate 2 bad cells in a 2 year old battery myself. I have personally bought mt last GM product despite owning over 14 GM vehicles in my life. My problems are more related to how consumer issues are handled by GM customer service when the local dealer has no power to resolve the issue locally despite their best efforts.
  • Dealer in Morehead City NC said I could not have a second battery installed without voiding the MFR warranty and said they could not do the job since it is not OEM to my vehicle. Any thoughts or insights?
  • I posted earlier that replacing the negative battery cable seemed to have cured my dead battery issues in a 2008 Denali. After 2 months of trouble free driving the problem is back again. So the negative cable was /is not the answer. It is back in the shop and I am again trying to talk to the folks at GM customer service for a permanent resolution to the problem. I currently own four GM products, and have purchased three of them new in the last 15 months from the same dealer. I am not sure anyone cares about customer support anymore. I may start riding a Schwinn.
  • There is a computer program recall,as well as TSB's #1741191 Battery electrical drain, for 2007 Denali's and #2074806 for 1996-2008 GM's using Class 2 Communications. I agree that service is GM's greatest failure.
  • check the following messages...they might help.

    Message #733 Re: Battery Dead [kchawk1] by fiaga123 Aug 01, 2009 (6:01 am) You have to insist on 800 CCA if they give you anything lower. Mine had a 700 CCA and I was having ...

    Message #695 Re: battery keeps dying [circlew] by fiaga123 Jan 25, 2009 (6:32 pm) I figured it out this week. Firestone replaced my previous (dead) battery with a 700 CCA battery. ...
  • THE SPEEDOMETER IS READING 60MPH WHEN I AND IN PARK. WHEN I START TO PRESS THE GAS IT GOES OVER MORE AND STICKS FUTHER UNTIL IT'S AT 120+ . I HAVE NO IDEAL HOW FAST I AM GOING. I CAN BUMP THE SWITCH ON AND OFF AND IT RETURNS TO ZERO BUT IT HAPPENS AGAIN.ANYONE OUT THERE KNOWS WHATS UP?
  • circlewcirclew Posts: 8,372
    Happened to me after I changed a dead battery. I solved it myself since I noticed every time I shut off the ingnition completely and started it back up, the speedometer would inch back around 5 mph at each on/oof cycle. It wasn't enough to turn the key on/off without starting. I needed to start it each time and then turn it off and repeat.

    I think i did it around 30 or 40 times but it did reset and has been normal for about 10 months now.

    Regards,
    OW
  • Most likely your problem is not resolved. As you may or may not know, there is a recall on the instrument cluster for faulty servos. GM will warranty usually up to 70,000 miles, after that, your on your own. Replacement of the cluster through GM will run you in the neighborhood of $650. Their are repair facilities that advertise on EBAY that will repair your cluster for around $200, but you have to send it to them. Thats what I elected to do and have been pleased with no more problems. The cluster is rather easily removed, the bezel snaps onto the dash, remove I believe four screws and the cluster comes out. Be sure to disconnect the battery before unplugging the harness from the back of the cluster. Good luck
  • rshtrsht Posts: 277
    Absolutely! Check the U-joints first, most of the time its just a matter of grease the U-joints; but, if your OEM U-joints do not come with grease fitting, then just drive until one of them goes bad, at that point (a side from the Clunk your hear/feel as you accelerate from stop) you should feel a slight vibration from the rear of your vehicle at speed around ~45mph... Good Luck!
  • rshtrsht Posts: 277
    Unless you use Coil-over or Air shocks, those gas charged shocks will not do much at all to raise/restore your vehicle to its original height. Being its in the front, upon replaced the coil spring (or perhaps instead of coil springs, they may be torsion bars), you will need to have the front wheels re-aligned.

    As far as minimize the brake squeak/squeal, having shims installed (correctly) between brake pads and caliper will most definitely help. Before you shop for shims for your particular vehicle, you may want to check with your Ceramic pad manufacturer for the proper shims (and adhesive), since not all shims are made of quality steel... URL below as FYI.

    http://auto.howstuffworks.com/auto-parts/brakes/brake-parts/brake-shims.htm/prin- - table
  • I check around for pricing and come up to be around $200 to replace 2 u-joints in the front, having already replace the 2 in the rear, I hope this work. Another question you may know is about my rear shock, can we buy aftermarket brand because dealers are $600 for both. well, thank you for the advice. and I will let you know.
  • rshtrsht Posts: 277
    If you have the OEM Auto-leveling System, then you 1st would probably have a hard time finding those after market air-shocks (i.e. from Monroe and etc.) for the application. Although, I have seen some past post about Bilstein may have something that's close, but your on- board computer will display some sort of "Ride Control" message all the time, which can be a pain... I would suggest to checkout the place called Arnott, their price is much more reasonable than of a GM Dealership... Hope that helps. Good Luck!
    http://www.arnottindustries.com/part_GMC_Air_Suspension_Parts_yid15_pid95.html
  • yes they do i have gotten very useful information,but you can always go to the dealer and see what they say.
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