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GMC Yukon and Yukon Denali Problems

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Comments

  • theham, you have a better shot at resolution from a lemon law perspective than pursuing a false advertising claim. I think that you should press the dealer on the transmission clunking - if they refuse to work on it, you are that much closer to being able to file a lemon law action. Just be sure to keep everything in writing. If a telephone call occurs, follow-up the call with a letter (keep a copy for your files) or e-mail to the caller that specifies what you understand the call was about and re-iterate your position that they have to fix a clunking transmission.
  • thehamtheham Posts: 20
    I got a call from the service shop last night and they are keeping the car until tuesday at least. I figured it was for fixing the transmissino but no mention of that yet still. Instead they ordered a new seat heater module and put it in and the seat heaters still dont work. Turns out I have some mess of a wiring problem that the tech doenst know how to fix and is on the phone with GM to try to figure it out.

    I think it would be hilarious if a TSB comes out that says its normal for heated seats not to work.

    FYI: Oh and here's a really good site someone put up for lemon law info and the process to follow.

    http://agmlemon.freeservers.com/

    At this point I have now driven a toyota coralla longer than my denali.

    I can laugh about it but it sucks
  • thehamtheham Posts: 20
    Well I am driving my denali but still need to take it back to the shop for engine vibration. However you wouldn't believe the problems I had with where I bought it. I purchased the vehicle from Dave Smith Motors in kellogg idaho after someone recommended them to me. However it is a huge mistake to ever go to this dealer for a couple reasons. First off in most states you loose your state lemon law protection if not bought in your state. You can get the same deal at any car dealership if you are informed of invoice prices and walk out if they wont deal. Remember there are always other dealers. Also they are a huge volume dealer so once you buy a car from them they don't care about you at all. I have talked with them on the phone about my problem which you will read next and they basically say its not our problem.

    now the real reason never to buy from dave smith motors. I got my denali back from the shop here in seattle and they fixed the seat heaters. However they said that Dave Smith Motors already tried to fix it but never did. Instead they broke a bunch of panels left parts panels and screws out of the vehicle and left everything unplugged. Bottom line they broke the vehicle and threw it back together so noone would notice then sold out the door. I have heard of people getting screwed on price by the dealer or getting a lemon because of manufacturing defects but never a new expensive vehicle being purposely proken by the dealer service shop then concealed and sold. Holy crap it doesnt get more fraudulent than this. The service shop in seattle called dave smith motors and they admitted to the problem and said they would pay the 50 bucks for extra missing parts that were not covered under GM warranty but said they would not pay the labor costs to the service shop. The seattle service shop showed me the clocked hours of the tech which just trying to figure out how to fix the wiring mess dave smith motors left and everything else to fix the seats was 8 hours. At anywhere from 50 to 90 an hour you can see that adds up to alot of money. In truth the seattle service shop could have tried to charge me because it was not warranty work but it was purposefull destruction of the vehicle that happened outside of manufacturing. But luckily they didnt and were really nice. So I will give a good grade Bob Bridge Pontiac GMC in Renton, WA.

    To sum up if you go to dave smith motors and get screwed after reading this then it is your own fault.

    Also they had to order a bunch of the exterior panels around the base of the seat because dave smith motors service shop scratched and cracked almost all of them. I didnt notice it until I got the vehicle back from the shop but it is bad. I am in shock that a dealer could have ever let this happen.
  • orwoodyorwoody Posts: 269
    I hope that you have filed a complaint with the regional GM reps... Even GM keeps a close watch on their dealers as they can't afford such ill publicity. I once filled out one of GM's surveys on a new vehicle I bought. A few minor complaints and GM had the factory QA manager send me a letter and gave me a call.
  • You got above and beyond the call service from Bob Bridge Pontiac GMC. Anytime a service shop eats $400 to $560 on another dealer's screw-up, you have a conscientous shop. I would stick with them (Bob Bridge) like glue.
  • I just bought a 2003 Yukon Denali 1 month ago and the exhaust makes a horrible popping noise once the motor heats up. You can hear the noise when driving, at stop lights, and for up to 30 minutes after turning the engine off. This vehicle is used for business purposes and my customers give me funny looks and ask about it. The truck had 900 miles on it when I 1st took it in for service and they claim it's "operating as designed". I have been back twice since then for other needed repairs and they refuse to work on or even look at the exhaust issue. The truck now has 1400 miles on it and has needed a grocery list of things fixed but the exhaust is still the most troubling and what I notice EVERY time I drive it. They referred me to GMC Customer Service which was a joke and then to the BBB Autoline which I am waiting to hear back from. You kind of expect a little more when spending 50K on a truck. Anyone else have this problem? Any ideas?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,619
    Sounds like a fuel mixture problem to me. Has the vehicle been sniffed after it warms up? Did it throw any codes from a scan?

    MODERATOR

  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Might be this:

    Exhaust/Muffler Heat Shield Rattle, Popping Noise Under Vehicle (Install Heat Shield Retaining Straps On Muffler) #02-06-05-005B - (04/16/2003)
    Exhaust/Muffler Heat Shield Rattle, Popping Noise Under Vehicle (Install Heat Shield Retaining Straps On Muffler)

    2002-2003 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade EXT

    2000-2003 Chevrolet Silverado, Suburban

    2002-2003 Chevrolet Avalanche

    2000-2003 GMC Denali, Denali XL, Sierra, Yukon XL

    2003 HUMMER H2

    with 5.3L or 6.0L Gas Engine (VINs T, N, U -- RPOs LM7, LQ9, LQ4)

    Except 1500 Series Models

    This bulletin is being revised to add RPO LQ4 to the Models information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin 02-06-05-005A (Section 06 -- Engine/Propulsion System).

    Condition
    Some customers may comment on a rattle/popping noise from under the vehicle.

    Cause
    The separation of the muffler heat shield from the muffler may cause a rattle under the vehicle.

    Correction
    Install two heat shield retaining straps, P/N 15164621, to the muffler and muffler heat shield. Follow the service procedure below to correct this concern.

    Raise and support the vehicle.
    Install a retaining strap, P/N 15164621, around the front of the muffler and muffler heat shield as shown above.
    Pull the retaining strap tight with one hand and tighten the Allen head screw with the other hand.
    Tighten the Allen head screw on the retaining strap to 13.5 N·m (119 lb in).
    Repeat steps 2 and 3 on the rear of the muffler.
    Lower the vehicle.
     
    Parts Information
    Part Number * Description * Qty
     
    15164621 * Strap Asm-Exhaust Muffler Heat Shield * 2
     
    Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
  • The only problem is that GM and the dealer are standing behind the idea that it is a normal sound. The heat shield has been blamed for the problem as you wrote but with no one taking reponsibilty to fix it I have no other recourse. They will even admit that some do it more than others and most don't do it at all but this Yukon's noises are really bad! They are also claiming that GM has been working on a fix since 1999 and still don't have one. They can have it back for all I care. This is just one of too many problems for this truck and I don't have the energy to fight for them to work on it all the time. Time is money and this is already costing me a fortune.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Try approaching another dealer with the TSB #. The cost of installing the straps, both parts and labor, is peanuts.
  • it always amazes me that the us auto makers advertise what they never have... a good, safe, reliable vehicle...thank to all...the denali has come off my list of SUV's to buy, lincoln came off last week....thanks again....
  • Bobbio56, OK what else are you now looking at?

    Maybe the Toyota Land Cruiser with an impeccable reputation? The TLC is probably the best but the opening bid is 60K and replacing the starter (see a post on the Land Cruiser board) can cost 1K for just a rebuilt unit. (I think Pep Boys would have a GM starter for $39; alternators are less.)

    Please let us know.
  • valid point...i am looking at them all and frankly a LC @ 60k does less for me as you get toyota service at a lexus price...if i look at denali, lx, armada/qx56, I was thinking last night...for @ 15k to 20k diff. (i get a big discount at GMC) i can do alot with that money, even if it means renting loaners if the denali is in the shop....so as strange as this sounds to me, i am getting down to denali or lx...about 20k diff. for me...and that's something to think on...i love the way the denali looks and rides...it is not close to the lux of lx, however it isn't that far off....let me know your thoughts...thanks!
  • Bobbio56, at your price of 40K the Denali despite its shortcomings looks good. But at 46K, the price most folks buy them for, maybe not. At 46K you are now 9K over a loaded Armada and closing in fast on a TLC. For some reason, 45-46K seems to be a lot more serious money than 40K. Maybe it is even a life style threshold. At 45-46K the German sedans come on the horizon like an E Class 4matic or a well equipped 5 Series. Or maybe you take a pass on spending 46K and scale back to a Tahoe LT for 34K. Then you can rent a house on Nantucket or Block Island for July with the 12K you saved.

    Incidentally, I agree with you that paying Lexus-like money for a TLC and then putting up with the Japanese version of Chevrolet service is not a pleasant prospect.
  • thank again for the input...i am going to further frustrate myself this weekend and read more about all of them and gfo into a few dealers...within 10 miles of my house we have literally every dealer there is...as for BI or tucket...sorry been doing the Hamptons since I was born....I will report back.....
  • In response to " Yukon Denali Exhaust Noise by bigbadnin", I have an '03 Escalade that does the same thing. It started after about 500 miles and has gotten steadily worse. It's very embarassing as well as irritating as I, like you, spent over 50K for a vehicle that I am becoming very unhappy with. It appears there's no quick fix. I plan to ask my service advisor about the TSB 02-06-05-005B and see if that applies and if so, whether it resolves the issue.
  • lobsenzalobsenza Posts: 619
    This was resolved in my Denali for about 25K miles by replacing the muffler. Now there is a new procedure they are going to try (the noise came back).
  • dako_tiandako_tian Posts: 298
    If you are talking about the pops, snaps, clinks, etc. that you hear coming from under the vehicle after you stop, then they are most likely from the catalytic converter as the metal cools down and contracts. Catalytic converters run very, very hot (that's how they burn up those nasty exhaust emissions) and the metal in and around them (there will be heat shields to protect nearby components and to help prevent starting fires under the vehicle) expands with the heat as physics dictates. When cooling, that expansion turns to contraction in a not-entirely-even manner, resulting in the noises.

    It is nothing to be concerned about, is difficult (if not impossible) to avoid, and is probably simply more noticeable on this vehicle because it sits up so high that the sounds escape from underneath with far more clarity than from lower-slung vehicles.
  • tdohtdoh Posts: 298
    Maybe so, but at least on my '03 YXL it doesn't explain why for the first 8 months or so the muffler and/or cat hardly ever popped but now has popped with regularity over the last 4 months--sometimes the popping noise will go on for five minutes or more before subsiding. I'll agree that it's probably nothing to be overly concerned about, but it shouldn't have to occur nevertheless--otherwise we'd hear about it for just about every full-sized SUV, if not every single vehicle. Heck, I owned a '99 Tahoe and the exhaust system never popped like my YXL did/does.
  • alvesalves Posts: 1
    I bought a brand new Denali on 01, and it has 99k miles on it now. All through the last few years I have had a lot of problems with it, some of them rack & pinion/steering column bent, front differential failure, rear brake grinding noise (numerious times), (they actually blamed me saying that I did not know how to use the brakes) head rests and other trim coming apart, etc and had to fight tooth & nail to get the dealer to get the issues fixed. However, I have GMC major gaurd gaurantee till 100K. Couple of weeks ago I noticed a grinding sound when the steering is turned either to the extreme left or extreme right, and in motion (like driving in circles). The happens only when the engine is warm and the vehicle is driven more that 22 miles or so. The dealer ship couldn't diagnose the problem. All they could suggest is change the transfer box oil, the front differrntial oil, some other oils etc. I have already spent about $640 of my own money and they have not found the problem.
    Although I am supposed to be covered by the GM Major Gaurd, with a $100 detuctable I am expected to spend $1000 before they find a problem. What is the point of having warranty till 100k? They say that grinding noise could be wear and tear and will not be covered if that is the case. If any body know about this please respond.
    Thanks

    Remember, buyer beware. As for me this is the last time I would buy any GM product. I think it is not worth the trouble & aggravation.
  • Although we didn't notice any noise, last week the power steering went out on my 2001 Denali with around 55k miles on it. I opened the hood and there was fluid sprayed all over. Turns out the line froze and the pump kept pumping causing the line to fly off. Used Onstar and they came and got it. The tow and repairs were covered under some "good will warranty". I don't know if this is their way of saying this is a known issue, but I wasn't complaining. They replaced the line and put in a cold climate power steering fluid.
  • Alves, if your service department is telling you that wear and tear is not covered, they should be directed to the Wear and Tear Exclusion section of your policy. The wear and tear exclusion applies only to specific items - if the item that has worn out is NOT on the excluded list, then it is covered. If your service department can not understand that language, then you might want to consider another dealer that is not language-challenged.

    Regarding your attempts to identify the grinding noise, depending on your state's warranty laws, you may have an extension of coverage as long as the problem was first identified while the vehicel was in warranty coverage. Keep copies of the service department work orders that show the truck was brought in for the condition prior to the warranty period expiration.
  • I have a 1996 yukon i have put three fuel pump in 8 month i never let it get under a 1/4 tank and it is usaley after i put gas in it it just goes out with no warning and also the day time runing lights wont come on any help would be great thanks
  • palaltpalalt Posts: 25
    Reading all these comments, I see some pretty serious problems resulting in arbitration, BBB involvement, etc. I would expect these types of message boards to be primarily unhappy owners, but my topic of interest is not really present after reading 5 pages of conversation.

    I own a 99 Silverado Ext Cab 4X4 with 99K miles which has been an awesome truck. I'm thinking of trading to an 03 Denali Ext Cab 4X4, used with 20K. I'm concerned with the Quadrasteer option and the fact that the Denali is Full Time AWD. I know with the 6.0 Litre engine, requiring Premium Gas, it's an added operation expense but my main concern is learning of problems with what would obviously be an expensive Quadrasteer repair, once the truck is off Warranty. This 03 Denali is priced well under $30K so I'm pretty excited about the deal. I usually puy 1 year old trucks to let someone else take the initial depreciation hit, which in this case sounds like at least $10K. Anyone have any history of the Quadrasteer reliability???
  • avolvofanavolvofan Posts: 358
    palalt, how do you get to the conclusion that the 6.0 liter engine in the Denali requires premium gas? The owners manual specifies 87 octane unleaded. I personally use 89 octane mid-grade for the higher detergent content. I have never had any problems with pinging in either my 2001 or my current 2003 Denalis.
  • lobsenzalobsenza Posts: 619
    Denalis use regular gas. I have had no trouble with the full time all wheel drive on my 2001 Denali XL. I do not have quadrasteer (wish I did). It should improve the handling of the truck. I have not heard of any reliability problems with quadrasteer.
  • erinsquarederinsquared Posts: 178
    Has this vehicle been wrecked/flooded/salvaged title? That price is extremely low. I would run a carfax report, have a reputable body shop look at it and if it comes clean - buy it!! With the money saved, get a 100k mile GM extended warranty to cover longer-term quadrasteer issues and enjoy.
  • palaltpalalt Posts: 25
    Thanks to you all for such quick input to my question. I guess it was my error and assumption that the 6.0Litre would require premium. Personal friends work at this Pontiac/GMC dealer and can vouch for this 03 Denali Pickup. I guess the original owner traded for an 04 Denali XL for the interior space. I appreciate the extended warranty suggestion. The truck is $27K so adding approximately $1K for an extended warranty sounds like a good investment. Then I can put to rest my AWD & Quadrasteer concerns. Thanks Guys!!
  • gmanzx3gmanzx3 Posts: 37
    I say buy the Denali. That way your son can drive it to Indy next week!
  • freduarfreduar Posts: 7
    My Denali's suspension or shocks seem very soft and the vehicle seems quite unstable in corners and at speeds higher than 65 MPH. I drive from No Cal to So Cal on I-5 where speeds sometimes get up to 75-80 MPH and where the road dips or has bumps the Denali feels uncontrollable and dangerous. The same is true at lower speeds on winding roads up in the Sierras. Has anyone else had my experience? I've taken my car into service now 4 times and the only remedy the service people have is to inflate then uninflate my tires. I've about had it with GMC and the Denali.
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