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Cadillac DTS

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  • sls002sls002 Posts: 2,788
    OK, I understand that when your engine slows down to 1000 RPMs with the fuel shut off, the computer begins the fuel flow and the engine surges. My 2002 Seville does much the same thing, except that when the fuel flow starts, there is no surge. Generally, the instant MPGs go from 70 MPG to 69 MPG (just a tiny bit of fuel). I think that you must take this up with the Cadillac factory reps at the 800 number in your owners manual. Tell them you want a fix or you will purse the lemon law. Also tell the sales person who sold you the car that either it is fixed or the lemon law.

    Your powertrain is not much different than mine, there is no reason for a surge.
  • marsha7marsha7 Posts: 3,676
    I hope my post did not imply EVER that 44 psi was a usable pressure...I tried to communicate that it was the max safe pressure for the tire, per the manufacturer, but not that it should be used by anyone...did my post imply that???

    I meant that if the carmaker sticker reco 30 psi cold, one could add 3-5 psi anytime and not be overinflated, that's all...if the maker manual says 38 psi for over 100 mph, then, by all means, do it, but I think it is a rare one who often exceeds 100 mph...then again, there is Texas and Montana...:):):):)
  • wpsrwpsr Posts: 21
    No problem, it is just the computer on the 2006 DTS does all kinds of flashing when you go over about 33 in the hot weather. The pressure does go up a lot on a hot day. I can look at the computer and see what it is. It was up around 38 when all the flashing was going on. The biggest benefit for me is to let me know if a tire is going flat. My main concern is tire ware and safety. We had an Oldsmobile Aurora, the tires wore best at 44 lbs., that was the max on the tire. Most highways in Calif. are 65 mph.
  • sls002sls002 Posts: 2,788
    Tire pressure depends on the temperature. If you test the pressure when the tire is cold (say at 70 degrees F), and then the outside temperature increases to 90 F, your tire pressure should increase by about 1 lb. However, after driving about 10 miles, your tires will be hot, and the pressure will increase by another 4 lbs or so. So, if you set your pressure at 30 lbs when they are at 70 degrees F, after driving a while in 90 degree heat, your tires should be around 35 lbs or so.
  • sls002sls002 Posts: 2,788
    Montana's speed limit is now 75 on interstates, less otherwise. They no longer have a "reasonable and prudent" limit.
  • sls002sls002 Posts: 2,788
    One thing that you might try if you are using regular gas or some generic brand like Walmart - try using a brand name premium for at least two full tanks. By brand name I mean BP (British Petroleum or the old Amoco), Shell, Mobil, Chevron...

    I don't know that it will make a difference, but try it and see if there is a difference by the end of the second tank.
  • marsha7marsha7 Posts: 3,676
    any experience with tire pressure monitors, as I have not owned a car that had them...I did not realize that if the carmaker sets 30 psi cold as the "proper" psi, then putting 33-35 psi cold might "set off" the TPM...might even be a drawback to the TPM, since most of us aficianados know enough to check out tire pressure regularly, and I don't mean "every Christmas"...:):):)...I do not wish to appear anal retentive, but I check my tire pressure on the 1st and 15th of every month...wife gets paid, tires get checked...what could be easier???...:):):)

    I guess the TPM is esp good for telling you you have a slow or fast tire leak, acting as a warning for low psi rather than high psi, altho since we read about some repair shops putting 45-50 psi in tires, maybe having a top end warning isn't so bad...hey, maybe the "red flag" limit is adjustable, so I could set it at, say, 7-8 psi over where I keep them inflated...
  • The 2007 DTS is a carbon copy of the 2006 as far as I can see. Does anyone have any idea or heard any rumours as to when the body will change? It is still essentially the 2000 body with changes to the front and rear.
  • ehaaseehaase Posts: 328
    The DTS will probably use the same body until 2011 or 2012, when it will probably move to either the RWD Sigma or Zeta platforms.
  • wpsrwpsr Posts: 21
    We have been hearing a weird noise. It sounds as if it is coming from some part of the front of the car, at around 70 mph. There is no message being displayed. It is a buzzing sound and it comes and goes. I tried opening and closing the sun roof. This did not seem to make any difference.

    We took the car in for service the other day. The master technician had not heard of the weird noise. I think I have fixed it. We have had the car up to around 75 several times since fixing the plastic. Raise the hood, there is a latch below on the vehicle. On both side of the latch there is plastic. This plastic is vibrating at higher speeds causing the sound. I used silicone sealer under the leading edge of this plastic to glue it down. If this plastic ever needs to be removed it should come off without too much of a problem. Apparently this plastic is not loose on all of these vehicles, not everyone is hearing this noise.

    The noise in the trunk:
    I have seen several complaints on another forum, these vehicles have a vacuum pump in the trunk. If the intake vacuum in the engine becomes low this pump will run to bring vacuum to a proper amount. If the pump is running excessively you could have a vacuum leak. It is common to hear this pump right after you start the engine and it is at idle, also if you stop with the transmission in gear and the engine running at idle. If this pump is loose it could be radiating the noise, it is a small vacuum pump.
    Wps
    Still no fix for the acceleration problem, see 2006 Cadillac DTS downhill inadvertent acceleration problem.
  • sls002sls002 Posts: 2,788
    While the 2006 DTS looks much like the 2005, it really is an all new body, and the wheelbase is longer.
  • volvodan1volvodan1 Posts: 196
    The only visual similarity between the 00-05 and the 06 bodies are the doors. Otherwise the front, rear, wheels, and interior are all new. Mechanically they are virtually the same (4.6 Northstar, 4 spd tranny). As far as the dimentions go, the wheelbase, length, and width are all within 1/4 of an inch to the previous gen. That part is pretty much the same.
  • Hi - in your post you mentioned that you also belong to another forum. What is it - I would like to sign up for it also. Like to keep abreast of what is going on with the DST.

    Thanks.
  • Thanks to everybody who responded. I'll get a 2007 in 2008 and will look for a Luxury II or III -a lease return and not a rental car if I can avoid it. My "Certified" base 2003 Deville I purchased in January 2004 has been absolutely dependable except for some wind noise from the vertical post on the right rear door. It now has a little more than 50k miles on it. The dealer replaced a major part of the door and it solved the problem. I rented a new Avalon last month for an extended trip within Florida. Lots of road and wind noise. Luxurious interior, lots of pickup, felt a lot faster than my Deville, and obviously well put together. Unfortunately it is really a mid sized car. Luggage space is much less than the Deville and the center console is huge with a silly door over the radio. The radio itself is outstanding -better than my Deville but the new DTS will have the Bose audio system which probably will improve things a bit. CU loves the Avalon and calls it full size but it still feels to me like a much smaller car than the Cadillac. When you drive a Deville or DTS it just feels like a heavy car which is what it is supposed to feel like. A new body in 2011 or 2012 will be great -just in time for me to trade in my 2007 that will still be under warranty.
  • wprs – I have an idea that may help you with your surging problem. You may have already tried this but here it is.

    Go to the senior service rep at your dealer and have them loan you a car identical to yours. By identical I mean, in your case, a Luxury I, II, or III and also the same model year. I believe your post indicated that you have the 2006 Luxury III. The Performance version has a different engine and MAY not experience the same problem. I have the performance and have not noticed a surge yet.

    Drive the same route that you do when you most notice the surge - like when you turn into your driveway.

    1 – If the loaner displays the same surge then it may well be across the board.
    2 – If the loaner does not surge then you have more fuel for the fire to fight GM.

    In the second case it would be great if the service rep were with you.

    Good luck. – fmoeller
  • wpsrwpsr Posts: 21
    fmoeller:
    That is a good idea, I have been thinking the same thing. Keep in mind, you must go down a grade that is steep enough for the car to push the engine. It is easiest to reproduce in 1st or 2nd gear. This is when the computer shuts off the gas. As soon as the engine gets to about 1000 rpms and the gas comes back on is when we get the surge of 600 to 700 rpms. The dealer's head technician here has reproduced the problem with our car and others on their lot, including a Buick with the same engine as the Cad. The problem is the dealer and Cadillac say this is normal, yes really hard to believe. We have contacted Cadillac direct and also NTSB. I think NTSB is on overload.

    It will be a little while before I will have a chance to drive another car at the dealer. Thanks, wpsr
  • sls002sls002 Posts: 2,788
    I did suggest that this might be related to fuel quality. My question for wpsr and buckeyedad is: are you using premium or regular? and is it a name brand or generic (like walmart).
  • wpsrwpsr Posts: 21
    I have tried different brands and grades, no difference. Thanks, wpsr
  • sls002sls002 Posts: 2,788
    Fuel quality probably is not the problem then. I am not convinced that this problem is found on every 2006 Cadillac or Buick V8 as there have not been any posts on this in the Lucerne forum. I would look into the lemon law as a solution.
  • The sales brochure for the 2007 DTS lists Bose speakers on the specification sheet for the standard equipment but the web site shows them only for the Luxury I and "enhanced" ones for the Luxury II. Has anyone driven a base model without Bose and compared the sound to a car with Bose speakers? Is there much of a difference?
  • sls002sls002 Posts: 2,788
    Why don't you take your favorite CD to your dealer and play it in a DTS with the base speakers and then in a DTS with the bose speakers. I think that the base speakers are probably quite good. At least the 98 Aurora I had with the base radio system was good. My 2002 Seville has the Bose radio, and it is good, but when one is moving, there are enough other noises that differences in the speakers are probably not too important.

    The bose speakers are standard with the Lux II package, optional with the base package and the Lux I package. The performance package (or lux III?) also has the bose speakers.
  • Probably a good idea. My base '03 Deville sounds fine -just about the same as my '06 Impala with the Bose system. I rented an Avalon last month and the stereo on the Avalon was better than both of them. My next DTS will be a certified 2007 sometime in 2008 and I will be sure and get at least one with the Luxury II. It will take a bit of looking because most of the certified DTSs are base models /ex-rental cars but hopefully I can find a lease return from someone who gets a new car every year.
  • I have the following problem with my 2006 DTS (Performance) and am looking to see if anyone else has experienced a similar problem and if so have you been able to resolve it.

    On occasion the right two door windows and locks act as follows:

    From the driver door controls press the lock button:
    1 – The front passenger door will not lock or unlock.
    2 – The rear passenger door locks and unlocks OK.

    From the driver door controls press the window buttons:
    1 – The front passenger door window will not open or close.
    2 – The rear passenger door window will not open or close.
    3 – Both door windows will open from their individual controls.

    When I turn off the ignition, remove the key, and get out all returns to normal.
    I think must actually get off the driver seat but I have yet to verify this.
    May be some kind of switch – in the seat?

    I have demonstrated this to the service department. I did this by (when the problem on one of the few times that it happened) going to the service departments entrance, calling them on my cell phone and having them meet me in the parking area. They verified the problem but after calling Cadillac’s tech support line still do not have a solution. Their next step is to leave the car and try to trace the wiring.

    Any advice or insight will be appreciated.
  • Its 40F +/- in the mornings so it happens almost every day now but the sound is duller, not so much like the sharp tap it used to be. I listened this week (from partly under the car)and mine is clearly not coming from either rear muffler (I had suspected loose baffles)but seems more like it's from the cat convertor. The explanation still is its pressure waves hitting the cat convertor that are created by a brief change to the engine program all designed to speed up heating up the convertor to improve emissions during warm up. In my case I have accepted that it is normal because pressure waves will cause repeated thumping sounds when they hit a chamber (cat convertor). Let us know if you come up with something different.
  • Autoweek issued a supplemental Buyers Guide with capsule comments on each of the 2007 cars. The summary on the DTS was "The perfect car to drive to a retirement village". They loved the Avalon - "A solid, beautifully built big car". I rented an Avalon for an extended trip in Florida last month. It is essentially a mid sized car - the same general size as my '06 Impala and suffers from a lot of wind and road noise. It started out as a stretched Camry and aside from the fancy interior it is still a stretched Camry. I can't figure out what is so wrong with the DTS. I've been driving big Cadillacs for years and like my '03. It has been essentially trouble free, gets 30 MPG on the road, is comfortable, quiet, and has enough power to pass anything safely. It also handles well. It also holds six passengers. My experience with BMW's, Audi's and the other long term favorites with car magazines is that they have spent more time in the shop than on the road. My Audi was a complete lemon and a 50,000 mile throwaway. I made the mistake buying one and driving it to work each day. I frequently arrived at work late and in the Audi dealer van. Obviously the DTS is not a "sport sedan" but so what? AutoWeek's comment is typical of car writer's views but road tests of the big Cadillacs are usually favorable. I wonder how many prospective buyers are swayed by these negative comments?
  • sls002sls002 Posts: 2,788
    I think that the DTS is a good car for interstate highway cruising. Car & Driver said much the same thing. I like my 2002 Seville, but I am getting tired of dragging the nose on the pavement an slightly steeper than normal driveways or bumps in the road on city streets.

    I have decided to try to sell my car and if successfull, will replace it with a RWD sigma model, probably a 2006 SRX.
  • vic10vic10 Posts: 188
    Well first of all, the test drivers of most of those car magazine articles are maybe 25 and they think of "Mercedes" and "BMW" as I would think of "Cadillac" and "Lincoln" when reality is they actually represent "GM" and "Ford". So when they buy a Mercedes 190, they're not getting a "Caddy", they're really getting a German Chevrolet. But cachet is cachet. My first comparison with a Mercedes was in the early 70's when a girlfriend's family were bragging about theirs and how much was done during their 24K mile checkup, which only cost them $300., and I said, gee, I just had my 24K check on my Pontiac and it cost me $18. And I thought, for the money I'd have to spend maintaining that car, I could buy a new Pontiac every 3 years or so.... My opinion of German cars hasn't improved over the years. Toyotas are a bit better, though maintenance and parts are higher. But you get better value than with the German products.

    All that being said, I LOVE American cars and have Cadillac on my list of wanna-own cars. I just bought a 300C because I couldn't resist the allure of a Hemi and consider the current Caddy models a bit too frumpy looking. But maybe next model change....
  • beardiebeardie Posts: 44
    I currently have a Lexus ES330, and a good friend has the Avalon. They are basically the same "Camry" in various forms. The Avalon has more room in the rear, but they both ride similarly. They are pretty quiet, but they are no Cadillac! The seats are much firmer, and the feel of the car is that of a much lighter vehicle.In addition,the car suffers from the famous transmission lag that you may have read about in most ES330s and other Toyotas. I personally can't wait until I replace the 330, and my 1st choice will probably be the DTS. If you're over 6' tall, you will not have that much leg room in the Toyotas! When you take that extended ride, there's nothing like the Caddie or Lincoln TC!!
  • You should like the SRX -I have a friend with one in the real estate business and she likes it very much. It is also high enough so that it won't hit the bumps. I've never had a problem though with the Deville and I thought that it had about as much road clearance as the Seville/Eldorado. Apparentely not.
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