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Subaru Legacy/Outback 2005+

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  • I thought it was just me. Before I bought my car I noticed my foot getting stuck under the dash (size 11.5 shoe). I even emailed Subaru and they said it wasn't a common complaint (sounds like they know about it).

    I test drove it and didn't notice it much when actually driving (does happen though)... so I bought a 2.5i Ltd. My problem now is not so much my foot brushing against the plastic shield under the dash, but I am struggling to get used to the driving position.. I cannot believe the wheel does not telescope. I get to work stiff from not being relaxed because I have to extend my arms 1 to 2 inches further than other cars I drive and the head rest will not bend forward behind my head. And yes I have tried adjusting the seat every which way...I am almost 6' tall.

    Of course Suburu is not going to say "sure...bring it in and we will put a slightly longer steering column in" so does anyone know if it's possible to modify the steering column length? Who would do it?
  • sdufordsduford Posts: 577
    I would highly recommend a portable Garmin unit. Some of them are excellent (better than the OEM ones), they are much cheaper, and you can take them with you when you rent a car or go hiking. You can also take it with you when you buy a new car.

    I personally think that in-car navs are highly overpriced and overrated. Plus I tend to be in a rental car when I am in an area where I actually need it.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Which ones have you tried?

    How easy is it to add new destinations, and pre-program ones like home, work, dad's house, etc.

    -juice
  • I have a Garmin IQue 3600 (bought in Fall 2003) which I absolutely LOVE. It is ~$450, but when you get the auto kit, extra memory and external antenna (at least 256MB), it comes out to around $600 or so. Even so, you get a full featured PDA with the latest Palm OS, a fantastic display. The navigation software is built in and you load maps via a plu-in to the Palm desktop. Pretty easy once you have done it a few times. Nav software is great and it is easy to program routes, etc... (voice guidance too).

    I have a 2005 Outback XT and have not yet tried it in the car (used it all the time in my old SAAB and wife's Odyssey). The dash is fairly flat so it should sit nicely.

    I use the IQue whenever I am driving somewhere I am not too familiar with - even if it is not being used for navigation, it is great to see where you are on a map.

    The added bonus of using it in multiple cars makes it almost a no-brainer.

    Fell free to email me if you ahve questions....
  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    I'm going to try the seatbelt chime thing again. I think maybe what I've been doing wrong is not waiting for the first set of chimes to finish after starting the procedure.

    While I would never drive without my seatbelt on (nor have I ever forgotten), the chime is annoying when I have my vehicle idling in Park and I've got a screaming toddler to put in her carseat!

    Ken
  • Actually the process calls for beginning the cycle prior to the "welcome" beeper expiring. You will know you are in the groove so to speak when the chimes are interrupted. Also, be deliberate with the seatbelt clicking. Each time I visually kept my eye on the seatbelt light as I clicked in. This ensures that the seatbelt/computer recognizes the action.

    Click in and out 20 times in under 30 seconds.
    Key off and out
    turn key start again 20 times.
    Key off and out.

    Start car...no chimes!!! :-)
  • Karen_CMKaren_CM Posts: 5,018
    fastsuby, could you please send me an email? My address is in my profile.

    Community Manager If you have any questions or concerns about the Forums, send me an email, karen@edmunds.com, or click on my screen name to send a personal message.

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    E-mailed you poisson.

    -juice
  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    Okay, that's exactly what I've been doing in the past -- starting the process as soon as the initial chimes start (and before they end). I've got one hand on the seatbelt assembly and the other on the key just to get a jump start.

    I also do deliberate clicks and have noted the seatbelt light go out with each one. The gretting chimes also get cut off whenever I insert the belt and I've noticed they stop after the first few buckle/unbuckles.

    I haven't got a clue what I'm doing differently.

    I'll get these chimes to stop yet!

    Ken
  • emailed you KarenS
  • bat1161bat1161 Posts: 1,784
    I have the Garmin StreetPilot 2610 for about 6 months now. I've picked up the latest Map software (which is now standard) so I now have maps for all of US, Canada, and Puerto Rico. You store the data on CF cards - I just picked up a 1 GB card for $81; the unit goes for around $700.
       It's nice- it is great for traveling as it goes from car to car. It sits on top of the dash w/o blocking your view. The 1 GB card now holds from Florida to Maine, out to Indianna, some of the Pacific coastline, and a good portion of Canada. There is still a little more room, so I can always add.
       Juice, I have set up my families different homes each as a way point(destination), along with SIA (for that eventual factory tour) and locations throughout the US & Canada. It was great when we went to Nova Scotia last month- I inputted the hotels we were staying at along with some landmarks on Prince Edward Island. If not for the GPS, I would not have been able to find!
        It also helps locally. I've learned a couple of new shortcuts I never would have thought of with it:-). Overall I would definitely recommend a portable unit over the built in. They are cheaper, and you can take it with you.

    Mark
  • hypovhypov Posts: 3,068
    lumbar Sep 29, 2004 11:30am

    Been using the SPIII for 4 years now and haven't really gotten lost... yet.

    Issues that I've encountered:
    -No/Loss signal during solar flare.
    -Not too sure where it is when there is massive powerline overhead.
    -No/Loss signal in the city.

    The Garmin SP III Deluxe package should still be available for as little as $700, which is half the price I'd paid 4 years ago.

    -Dave
  • tsytsy Posts: 1,551
    Jay, I really apologize. I know how tempting it was to break that 4K barrier. It was Juice that made me feel so guilty. ;-)

    If it makes you feel better I'll stay below 4K today as my penance. Ooh, too late, I already blasted it to 6K on my commute in. ;-)

    You're almost there! Don't give up now. Actually, Ken referred to a site that suggests gradually breaking in the engine, not limited by mileage. They suggested hitting 5k 10 times over like 1000 miles, then 6k 10 times over the next 1000 miles, and so on. Ken correct me if I'm wrong.

    It makes sense to me to break in an engine like this.

    tom
  • tsytsy Posts: 1,551
    Ken- I did it on my first try (not to rub it in) but it must be beginners luck. I waited until the first chime after turning the key, deliberately inserted and removed the buckle each time exactly 20 times, and promptly turned the ignition off. I repeated the whole process, turned the ignition off and let all the dash lights fade out. Then started my car.

    What's interesting is that with the first set of 20 times the seatbelt light on the dash went out and never turned back on. With the second set the light would turn on every time I unbuckled and turn off every time I buckled it back in.
    I thought I screwed up for sure but then the chimes stopped. Go figure.

    Good luck. I don't know that I could do it again!

    tom
  • tsytsy Posts: 1,551
    I also have this unit. It is very reliable and the maps have been very good in the US, there are parts of Canada (NW) that are off the map, but the main roads are all there.

    Besides being able to take it from car to car, what I really like is that it sits right on top of your dash so you don't have to look down to see where you're going. Driving around other cars with built in Navs you always have to look down, which I think is dangerous.

    It's also much much less expensive (especially if you don't need 2 of them) than the built in units.

    tom
  • sdufordsduford Posts: 577
    I actually own a unit designed for flight planning and air navigation but I have played with the Street Pilot III which is the street version of mine.

    It is really user friendly and allows you to update the database via either web download or CD. You can create your own waypoints too, something like 400 of them.

    Nice unit.
  • I have a 05 LL Bean with about 1300 miles on it so far. Ever since about 600 miles or so I have been noticing a whining sound in the transmission. But I'm not sure if I'm just hearing things or what?! My husband checked the transmission fluid and it was right on track, but he noticed the power steering fluid was only filled to the "Cold Max". Does that matter? I suppose its almost October and in Vermont its kind of getting cold. Do I need to fill that more or is it ok for now?

    So back to the transmission sounds...

    When I start the car in the AM I definitely hear it whining, but as soon as I put it in gear and drive it seems to go away. Sometimes I will notice that it will be louder when I am going slower, like 35 or so, but as soon as I step on the gas the noise goes away. Then again if I take my foot of the gas and just coast at (at @35mph) the noise comes back.

    What do you think? My initial thought right now is to let it go until 3000 miles and then take it to Subaru for the oil change and see what they have to say about it. I feel like an idiot bringing it in if there is nothing wrong with it.

    On the other hand my husband has a 97 Blazer with a bad transmission (torque converter needs replacing) so I know what a whiny transmission sounds like.

    I hope I am just imaging all these noises because I dont want anything to be wrong with this car. I love it!

    Oh yeah. Sometimes I will drive with no radio on to listen for the noises and I cant hear a thing. Maybe this is all in my head...

    Thanks,
    Kristen
  • robr2robr2 BostonPosts: 7,854
    For those of you interested, tirerack finally has snow tire packages listed on their website. 16" steelies for the 2.5i and 17" alloys for the GT.

    Since it's a blistering 56 degrees here in Boston and whatever tropical depression that moved through today started knocking leaves off the trees, I'm reminded that the white stuff will soon be flying.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    You guys are good salesmen! :o)

    I think I have to check them out in person, play around with them a bit.

    -juice
  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    Kristen,

    I have noticed that there is a pinion sound (whine) from my transimission when coasting just below 20mph. As soon as I go above or below that speed, the sound goes away. I attributed it to the tranny being new and the tolerances very tight. My dealer, who agreed with my assesment, also thought that the sound would fade over time. I'm at 4500 miles now and it seems to have done just that.

    You mentioned hearing a noise when first starting in the morning but before actually driving. That would seem like it's something other than the transmission. A loose belt perhaps?

    Ken
  • c_hunterc_hunter Posts: 4,487
    I agree with Ken.

    BTW, "cold max" is the proper level when the engine is cold and the power steering has not been running. It does not pertain to weather!

    Craig
  • In a previous post there was mention of an Outback 2.5i with air conditioning troubles. I would be very interested to know if other people are discovering inadequate air problems.

    I have the 05 Legacy 2.5i wagon. During the last few months here in Los Angeles it has been quite warm so I really got to test my air conditioner. Needles to say I was disappointed. It was cool but I never felt cold. The dealer admitted there was a problem and put in a new compressor. I was told the problem was fixed. It was in the upper 90’s when I picked the car up and while I was on the highway it did seem a little cooler but once I got in stop and go traffic it once again felt inadequate. Over the next few days with temperatures in the upper 90’s I was always just shy of being completely comfortable even with the air on full blast.

    I had it back to the dealer two more times. The last time they gave me a Legacy 04 turbo sedan as a loaner. The air from that car was great so I assume at least some models have good air conditioning. When I picked my car up this last time the service rep told me they had made all the adjustments they could and that it met Subaru’s specs. He implied that that was as good as it gets in the 05.

    The 04 I drove had automatic climate controls that went to a low of 65 degrees. I’m wondering if this is the temperature I should be getting out of my vents and what is the most accurate way of measuring it Does the Limited Legacy or OB have a stronger air conditioner than the base model? Do Subarus generally have weak air? I don’t know if I should accept what the dealer tells me or demand they look at it again.

    Thanks, Laurn
  • Okay, so I printed out the instructions [thanks, fastsuby!] before I left work last night and decided to give this crazy process a try before leaving the lot [given the position it requires and the, uh, rapid-fire hand motion at lap level, I was a bit worried what someone might think had they glanced through the glass, but I digress] ...

    key in, key on, 20 times, key off, key out, key in, key on, 20 times, key off, key out, key in, start car, voila, no more chimes.

    I gotta admit, I'm still chuckling but oh so pleased to have silenced the lambs ... now I just gotta know, who/how in the hell did someone figure this procedure out??!!

    I'm worried that I've also caused some inadvertent disruption in the time/space continuim ... like the old Steven Wright line:

    "I've got this light switch in my house that doesn't do anything, so every day when I walk by I flip the switch. The other day I got a call from a woman in China ... she said, 'Cut it out.'"

    Anyway, thanks again for the heads up.
  • c_hunterc_hunter Posts: 4,487
    Laurn, I think something is definitely wrong with your particular car. Of the last 5 Subarus I have owned (culminating in an 05 Outback XT), all have had very good AC. I live in tidewater VA where it gets really hot and humid in the summer and I am one of those guys who always seems warm, so I would definitely be complaining if the AC was not up to par. The AC in my new 05 is pretty strong, in fact, it has no problem cooling down the black interior after the car has been sitting in the sun all day.

    You should be able to measure the temperature coming out the AC vents and verify that it meets the correct temperature accordingto specs. There are specs on the system temperature -- with the temp knob on minimum and the intake air damper set to recirculation, it should be blowing a certain number of degrees below the ambient temperature (someone else may have exact numbers, but it's supposed to be pretty cold air, on the order of 55F-60F if my memory is right). BTW, the 65F setting on the auto climate control systems is for the target cabin temperature, but the air coming out the vents is cooler than that when running "max" AC.

    I hope some of the others can add to my comments with more precise info. Once you get all the facts, and perhaps measure hard numbers on your AC temps, it may be a good idea to try another dealer and/or call the Subaru 1-800 number to set up a case and get their input. If the system is not meeting the minimum temperature spec, then something is definitely wrong and they will have to fix it under warranty.

    Good luck,
    Craig
  • Glad to help, It is like a new car feeling isn't it! I read/heard about it from a friend whom is a service tech and admitted "car geek".

    The only drawback is that if/when you have the car serviced if they disconnect the battery the Chime Gremlins will be back. Just repeat the process.
  • Agree with c_hunter...I have the 05 XT in Black interior and the A/C is far superior to my old Maxima with Black Leather. The A/C in my XT is chilly cold when necessary. Never noticed it not keeping up. I remember I had that similar type of problem on other cars, the problem turned out to be a pin hole in one of the pipes for the A/C. Over the course of a few weeks the A/C would lose its charge. It did take a few visits to the dealer until they belly'ed up to the problem. Just a notion..
  • Karen_CMKaren_CM Posts: 5,018
    If so, my apologies for the repeat.

    Follow-Up Test: 2005 Subaru Outback

    Community Manager If you have any questions or concerns about the Forums, send me an email, karen@edmunds.com, or click on my screen name to send a personal message.

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Laurn: my A/C puts icycles on my nose, I can't run it on a high fan setting, even in humid DC summers ('98 Forester). My wife's '02 Legacy L is the same way.

    Make sure you put it on recirc, not fresh air, so you're not cooling fresh/hot air all the time.

    Under the hood, some folks have added extra insulation to the ducts but you shouldn't need to do that.

    -juice
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Of course the hatch is light to open, it's aluminum! It's also never rust. :-)

    They complain about the tranny but it doesn't sound like they even tried the Sport mode!

    This my fave:

    refined and glamorous beauty

    -juice
  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    Finally got it to work!! I think what did it for me was to wait after the first buckle for the seatbelt light to stop flashing.

    I noticed that for some reason, the indicator light continues to flash even though the chimes stop after buckling right away.

    So, I buckled, waited until the indicator stopped flashing and finished the remaining 19X reps waiting for the light to turn out every time.

    Ahhhh. Now I can just listen to the sound of the engine idle with no chiming.

    Ken
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