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Subaru Legacy/Outback 2005+

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Comments

  • sdufordsduford Posts: 577
    That does sound like a rip-off, you could get an extended warranty for that price. There is no way they can void your warranty as long as the minimum prescribed maintenance is done appropriately.

     

    Sounds to me like the dealer is using unethical sales tactics, I would consider going somewhere else for your maintenance if you already bought the car.

     

    Sly
  • poissonpoisson Posts: 49
    The statement "if I didn't do it I could VOID my

    new car warranty against any defect" is an outright lie. The dealer will honor the warranty unless they can tell that the scheduled maintenance was not followed. Many people do their own oil changes and never have a problem as long as you document what was done.

    Speak to the sales manager (I assume it was not him/her that pressured you) and I would also consider calling SOA and reporting the pressure tactic you dealt with.

    Such behavior is uncalled for.
  • lumbarlumbar Posts: 421
    Very lame tactic by whoever told you that, and, as already pointed out, a lie.

     

    Cancel immediately and save the receipts for your maintenance, which hopefully you'll have performed elsewhere.

     

    Frankly, I'd look over the rest of the deal as well if they're capable of that.
  • bkaiser1bkaiser1 Posts: 464
    The dealer who pressured you into buying that policy under the guise of "if you don't you will pay" is a shameful example of what, unfortunately, is still prevalent in the car business. You absolutely don't have to spend that kind of money to service your car AND keep your warranty intact. As long as you check and replace the things that are outlined in your manual when they are called for, you'll be fine with the warranty.

     

    In the 30k miles I've put on my WRX, it's never been to the dealer for any service (I've done them myself) but I have all my receipts for the parts (oil filters, oil, etc) handy in case I ever needed them. Save yourself the $1200 -- it's a total ripoff -- and be sure to call 1-800-subaru-3 to report that shady dealer.

     

    Brian
  • dcm61dcm61 Posts: 1,478
    He also said that if someone else was doing the maintenance, all the parts had to be of Subaru make?

     

    That is also a lie. While I personally use Subaru parts, the manufacturer cannot make that a requirement unless they supply the parts for FREE.

     

    DaveM
  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    Grrrr. I hate those high pressure sales tactics that some dealers use. Even worse are those that ouright lie.

     

    It's up to the dealer to prove that something the owner did to the vehicle resulted in damage/failure. Only then can they deny you warranty work. If you are following typical maintenance work (either at a Subaru dealership or an independent shop) there should be no reason why warranty work would be denied to you.

     

    For your peace of mind, call Subaru of America a call at 1-800-SUBARU3 and explain to them the situation and verify that your warranty will hold. It might be nice to have the facts from a trusted source.

     

    Ken
  • c_hunterc_hunter Posts: 4,487
    I am really glad you posted here for a sanity check. As others have said, it's a lousy sales tactic and a lie. Even if you wanted the maintenance, I would caution that it's a poor way to allocate your money and a great way for the dealer to line their pockets. In general, the rules of economic analysis say that paying ahead for services are a bad idea. Wouldn't you much rather have all that money in your pocket and pay as you go??

     

    I spend $10-20 per oil change (depending on whether I do it or the dealer does it). When doing the 30K maintenance on our Subarus, I usually spend $60-80 on parts, fluids, etc, and 3-4 hours of labor. So my estimates peg 45K worth of maintenance at roughly $160 for a do-it-yourselfer or $400-500 for dealer servicing.

     

    Like the other guys, I would caution you to carefully look over the deal, as these guys may be trying to rip you off in other ways. You should be paying approximately invoice price for the car, which is anywhere from $2K to $3K under sticker. The Edmunds pricing guides can give you more details on MSRP and invoice pricing. Hope that helps!

     

    Craig
  • luck11luck11 Posts: 425
    It seems some of the trim around the quarter glass in the rear was missing the clips. They have been ordered. Some squeaks may also be a result of broken clips by the installers of my remote starter...I'll have to speak to them.

     

    BTW, heads up. The brake light housing in my rear spoiler was loose and rattled a bit. It seems that after checking a few other Soobs on the lot, the dealer found it to be a common problem. It turns out that the entire spoiler assembly was not tightened as much as it should have been. They tightened everything up.

     

    Cheers,

    Jay
  • My GF and I drove my XT 5MT from So. Cal to Austin, TX for the holidays. The trip started with 900 miles on the ODO and we returned with just under 5K. The trip out was great with highway mpg growing from 21 to just over 25 with cruise set to around 80mph. My best tank was 25.6mpg across the flat AZ desert at night. These values are calculated from delta miles/fuel to click (when the pump turns off) and are usually 1-2mpg lower than the average estimated on the dash. No snow to play in, but passing in 5th was no problem when desired and the car is very smooth and quiet in cruise mode at 80mph. I saw A LOT of other OBs (seems to be the road trip car of choice), but few foresters. I was the only ‘05OB. On a deserted stretch I took it up to around 110 before slowing down. Aside from the increased wind noise at 95+, the car was still very quiet and did not jostle or buffet around. At White Sands, NM, I was able to test the cornering in a huge sand lot and noticed some understeer doing tight circles, which reduced throttle quickly corrected. I was trying to learn the handling of the car but the GF did not like it, so I did not try anymore. The car was responsive at all speeds and the brights spread light to the side very well to spot deer at night. On our way out the rear gate (when raised) would rub the body on the top right side upon opening only. Also, the pass. side window control became intermittent. Oil was changed at 3500miles at the dealer in Austin and the rear gate was adjusted to not rub. Window switch was determined faulty, but was not available for replacement. Being 6’-3”, the front seat is a bit short and during the extended hours, the seats became hard and uncomfortable, probably because of my awkward sitting position. With regards to squeaking, the car is very quiet except for the center console. My rt leg rests against the center console and makes it squeak when I lean into it. I just tried this today when the car was cold and I could not reproduce it, so it probably only happens when it is warm. All in all, very happy with the vehicle, GF loves the seat heaters, Dad liked the turbo, and rest of family liked the interior and exterior.

     

    A couple questions:

    1. Has any body else had the rear gate rub or window switch problem?

    2. I read the thread about the vinyl tape reducing the squeak and would like to try it: How do you get the paneling off the center console?

    3. I had modified my last car to move the seats aft 4” and would like to do this again. I was thinking of doing this at the floor / seat interface. Has anyone had their seat out and seen how much room is down there / the bolt pattern, etc, thought about this or tried this?

     

    A side note: Went to the local mountains yesterday to ski (in someone else’s FWD car) where it was snowing mildly throughout the day. Posted signs read ‘4WD with snow tires OK, carry chains’. Road was completely covered with fresh snow, compacted snow, and ice. Out of the 25 or so Subarus (WRX, OB, For), only one ‘05 wrx had cables on the front. Do you all carry cables and use them in emergencies or just not carry them at all?

     

    -jer

    ‘05 OBXT-5MT

    5100 mi
  • luck11luck11 Posts: 425
    Well, dealer tried my OB XTL 5MT and said it was consistent with the other XT's they've driven. Even the area rep confirmed that it is consistent with other turbo's.

     

    The response from Subaru Canada via dealer is that it is not abnormal and it is within specs. What a cop out. It may not be "abnormal" for the Subaru turbos, but its not normal for any car to hesitate like this...period. I can't blame the dealer...they have no fix and there is only so much they can do without Subaru Canada. I hope the hesitation settles down with more mileage, and hope that Subaru Canada/America get their heads out of the sand and provide a fix. But, I'm not holding my breath.

     

    Subaru's denial or refusal to act is only hurting their own reputation. A friend who was seriously considering an OB XT is now steering clear (sorry for the pun) of Subaru because he finds the hesitation annoying and is not impressed by Subaru's lack of action on the matter.

     

     
    Great dealer....not so great customer service from Corporate Subaru.

     

    Cheers,

    Jay
  • c_hunterc_hunter Posts: 4,487
    My rear spoiler (mounted on the liftgate) was rubbing the roof in the upper corner of the rear hatch opening on the passenger side. I was able to loosen a couple small bolts and re-align the spoiler (moved it about 1/16 to 1/8 inch). It was a pretty simple fix.

     

    For the 5MT, pull up the trim bezel around the shifter along with the boot. Apparently, you can reach under the edge of the shifter opening to pull the trim piece up (not sure about this as I have 5EAT and the procedure is different).

     

    Once that bezel is out of the way, you will see a screw at the rear of each side trim piece. Remove the screws, and then pull the trim pieces off (start at the rear and work forward). There are 3-4 clips along the length of the trim. You can use tape to line the mating surfaces of the trim, and the clips too, then reassemble everything.

     

    CRaig
  • tsytsy Posts: 1,551
    Hi jer

     

    As Craig described, it's pretty easy (the 5MT is not much different than the AT). The entire trim with the shift knob and boot can come off as one piece. I just unscrewed my shift knob (leaving it connected to the boot) and if you pull the center console piece (with the ashtray) on the back/bottom of the shifter boot it will pop right off. Remove the screws and carefully pop off the side trim pieces (there are clips at the level of the radio, HVAC controls, and at about the level of the ashtray).

     

    Just be careful when you pop it back in, you can scrape your parking brake boot. (I learned this the hard way). The second time I put it back together I used a small thin credit card piece of plastic (like a calling card) to protect the leather/vinyl boot which worked well.

     

    Good luck!

     

    tom
  • c_hunterc_hunter Posts: 4,487
    That reminds me -- you can actually lift the parking brake boot up and away from the console to solve the problem Tom mentioned. It snaps back down afterwards.

     

    CRaig
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Print a copy of the Magnussen-Moss Warranty Act and shove the paper in his face when you demand a refund.

     

    If it were truly required, Subaru OE parts that is, then by law Subaru would have to give it to you for free! So tell him he needs to either renegotiate the price down the ZERO or you want your money back.

     

    Peeves me like nothing else...

     

    -juice
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 30,443
    Hmmm.. Good advice... I'm sure that will make for a satisfying business relationship...

     

    Just kidding...

     

    But, mentioning Magnusso-Moss, holdback, invoice, etc, etc.. will only help you vent your frustration, not get anything accomplished...

    MODERATOR
    Prices Paid, Lease Questions, SUVs

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Who would want a relationship with a dishonest dealer like that anyway? Do you really think you could ever benefit from it?

     

    I'd bail and find another dealer nearby. Complain to the managers and say why they lost your business, too.

     

    He didn't get the refund yet, that's why I mentioned the Magnussen Moss Act.

     

    -juice
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 30,443
    Okay.. but, how does it help throwing it in his face? I'm sure they are aware of it.. And, if they aren't aware? They won't know what it means anyway... I'd call Subaru and mention it though...

     

    But, I agree... get your money and get out..

    MODERATOR
    Prices Paid, Lease Questions, SUVs

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Well, the idea is to let them know that you are aware of it, and that as an informed consumer you will not put up with dishonesty.

     

    Demand a refund, and service your car elsewhere.

     

    -juice
  • Is my only option in an '05 LL Bean Outback to use an FM Mod with my Sirius plug and play radio? Or can I get in via RCA connection? Please help? If so, how do I get back there? Cheers!
  • occkingoccking Posts: 346
    I just had XM Commander unit installed in my 05 Outback 2.5 limited. Yes, there is a little something different about the way the fm modulator connects to the antenna, or rather the radio in the vehicle. The installer had to to a little splicing of the antenna lead but any good installer that knows what he is doing should have no problem. I am very please cause the magnetic mount I had with the radio in my other car sat on the roof in the center just in back of the windshield & I could never take to a car wash cause the darn thing would move around & scratch the car. This installer put it inside on the left hand corner of the dash up close to the window & the reception seems to be about 95% of what it was before. Certainly something I could live with. Also, there is an absolutely perfect spot to put the control unit. Laying flat just in back of the shifter in front of the storage unit on the console. Perfect and now I don't have to use the remote to change stations--just as easy to use the control unit directly. If anyone wants will take some pictures & try to figure out a way of getting them on this board. Not sure yet on gas mileage. First fill up computer indicated 21.3 mpg and actual was 19.3. But, I usually fill to brim & dealer may not have when they filled it (why should they squeeze in another few dollars worth?) so actual mileage may have been a little closer to what trip computer indicated. And, this first fill up was mostly short distances, not the usual long trips I go on. Will get it's first test Monday when I make a long trip from here (near Providence, RI) up through Maine into New Brunswick around to Quebec City down to Montreal & back home. That should be a 1300 or so mile trip. Will report back to everyone how I do on gas mileage.
  • Continuing saga of BFGoodrich T/A tires on 2005 Outback 2.5i...Today, we tried my 2005 2.5i with the T/As as well as with the oe Potenzas. What a difference! With the T/As, the car leaps out of bumps (if on a curve, leaps out to one side). In the slush, the T/As really have trouble staying on the pavement. Of course, in dry conditions, the T/As corner much better than the Potenzas. Maybe the Performance Tires are a bit much for the base Outback, at least for winter. One possibility would be to get dedicated winter tires, but we lease the Outbacks and $600 for the Blizzaks (or whatever) is a lot. Any other ideas?
  • dcm61dcm61 Posts: 1,478
    One possibility would be to get dedicated winter tires, but we lease the Outbacks and $600 for the Blizzaks (or whatever) is a lot. Any other ideas?

     

    I would recommend that you look at Nokian WR. They are ALL-season tires with a winter snowflake rating.

     

    http://www.etires.com/showSizes.jsp?manufacturer=nokian&categ- - ory=SNOWS&group=WR

     

    There are a couple of dealers in Buffalo.

     http://www.nokiantires.com/newsite/dealer_output.cfm?startrow=6&a- mp;a- mp;location=New%20York

     

    DaveM
  • c_hunterc_hunter Posts: 4,487
    But, I usually fill to brim & dealer may not have when they filled it

     

    Make sure you don't top off the tank after the first click of the pump, otherwise all sorts of problems can result!

     

    CRaig
  • dcm61dcm61 Posts: 1,478
    Make sure you don't top off the tank after the first click of the pump, otherwise all sorts of problems can result!

     

    I've been telling my Dad that for probably 30 years and he still doesn't listen. :-( Yeah, it didn't matter back in the old days but their's too much to screw up with today's fuel systems.

     

    DaveM
  • sdufordsduford Posts: 577
    I've been telling my Dad that for probably 30 years and he still doesn't listen. :-( Yeah, it didn't matter back in the old days but their's too much to screw up with today's fuel systems.

     

    It didn't use to be a problem! My OBXT is my first car for which you absolutely cannot do that!

     

    Sly
  • DaveM-Thanks for the idea. I'm checking into it. Do you have experience with the Nokians on an Outback or other AWD car? How are they compared to oe Potenzas in warm weather? Thanks!

    Dave M
  • I have posted a tire report on this (Subaru 2005) board, #5988.
  • dcm61dcm61 Posts: 1,478
    Do you have experience with the Nokians on an Outback or other AWD car?

     

    I personally do not have any experience with them but I've read quite a bit of positive feedback regarding them.

     

    DaveM
  • I put Nokians on my 02 VDC a year ago after I gave up on the Potenzas that came on my car. Last winter was really snowy and the tires were great. They were fine over the summer. and i've put about 11k on them. I think they are still great this winter, but there's been very little snow. They aren't inexpensive and won't wear as well as some all-season tires. I'm pleased with them.
  • Ongoing saga of the Traction T/As....Our Subaru dealer manager (terrific guy) spent a couple of hours with us yesterday comparing the Traction T/As we've got on our 2005 Outback 2.5i MT with the oe Potenzas. We're all a little perplexed...with the BFGs, the Outback generally corners better. But when we hit a bump in the road, the rear of the wagon gets quite jittery. Today, we were driving at about 50 mph, ran over a slightly depressed manhole cover and the car fishtailed so much it was hard to control it. Yesterday, over the same spot with Potenzas on the car, it stayed well under control. What could there be about the 2.5i and the BFGs that makes such a bad match???
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