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Subaru Legacy/Outback 2005+



  • occkingoccking Posts: 346
    Just turning six weeks, 4500 miles in 2.5I LT. I notice on the highway, while in cruise control, whenever going downhill there is a constant, but subtle "jerking" motion back & forth oike the keeps accelerating than backing off every second or so. Have no problems on level ground or uphill, only downhill. Any comment from others? Got a good chance to check mileage today. Mostly highway trip computer had 27.6, actual mileage (filled to brim both times) was 26.7. Hopefully will continue to improve as car gets broken in & weather gets warmer.
  • twrxtwrx Posts: 647
    I too have a 2.5i LTD. I have 6000 miles and I have exactly the same thing going on with the cruise and downhill. It gets on and off throttle. I suspect they have a problem here. maybe a reprogram of the FI computer needed? My mileage is just about the same down to the 1 mpg high for the computer vs. real calculations I do at the pump. Thus far at 6000 I have not yet done better. Hope it does get 30 someday.
  • alpha01alpha01 Posts: 4,747
    I havent noticed the downhill surging with cruise on our NA 4EAT Legacy (though I have not looked for it either), but one thing I do notice with this vehicle's cruise that I've NEVER noticed with any other cruise control is that it is impossible to use the steering wheel toggle switch to accelerate the vehicle a few MPH without prompting a downshift.


    Its really frustrating- flick the switch up for half a second, and BAM! you've kicked down a gear!?! For what? All I want is a slightly higher pace, not a 100% effort. This doesnt happen only on upgrades or with a heavier load, or anything like that. It happens all the time.


    Is this typical of Subaru Cruise Control? Or is our Legacy just special?


    Also, does anyone know the stats on how breakdown of OBs sold, by engine? I'm interested to know what % of wagons use the NA 4 cyl as opposed to the Turbo or H6. (Thanks in advance).


  • tsytsy Posts: 1,551
    Actually, it's pretty common for cruise controls to downshift when you hit the ACCEL button.


    What I do to avoid that if I just want to accelerate briefly or increase speed a little, I use the gas pedal. ;-) It doesn't reset the cruise, and when you accelerate to the new speed you want to be at, hit the SET button. Nice, smooth, no downshifts, no one notices.


  • c_hunterc_hunter Posts: 4,487
    If you want to go up/down a couple mph, just tap the button -- approximately one tap for every mph. It won't downshift if you increase speed that way, and you get more control.


  • alpha01alpha01 Posts: 4,747
    Oh, I've tried this... if I tap..literally a quick flick.. for just a hair too long, I can completely confuse the tranny without having meant to. My pops was the first one to notice it actually, and mentioned it to me.


    And tsy- yes, I am aware that using the ACCEL button will prompt a downshift in most cars... my experience is that you need to hold it for a few seconds to get a downshift...


    Not a big deal, and naturally, one can use the go pedal to regulate, it just struck me as a bit overly agressive.


  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,507
    Yeah, you don't have to hold it very long for the downshift to occur, but I find that I get about 1/2 mph per tap. Unfortunately, on mine, it is somewhat variable (sometimes I get no noticable difference, sometimes a full mph), so I usually just cancel the cruise and reset - especially when I want to drop a bit of speed because "coast" hates to cooperate. It usually will dump the speed for a few seconds, then slowly climb back up to the previous setting.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Good to hear that, Sam.


    I'll put a fresh coat of Rain X on the side windows, though. ;-)


  • My 2.5i (5-speed manual) shows exactly the same behavior on cruise control going downhill. Haven't reported this to the dealer yet but will when the next service is due.
  • I'd like to interrupt for a minute to discuss tires again. I mentioned that when I got my Goodyear TripleTred tires, there was a rebate on them. Well it took me more than 2 months, but I finally got my check for $50.00 last night. That brings my total cost to $105X4=$420-50=$370 delivered to my door, or $92.50/tire. I like the tires, but if they last 80,000 miles like they are supposed to it will be one helluva deal:-)
  • krzysskrzyss Posts: 843
    do you, 63corvette, think it would take you to accumulate 80000 miles ?


  • At the current rate I've been accumulating miles it would take 42 months or 3.55 years.
  • krzysskrzyss Posts: 843
    afraid to wait 6 years (15000 miles/year), assuming that there would still be enough tread left, to change tires. But in your case, 3 and half years is quite fast and rubber deterioration should not be a problem.

  • fj60fj60 Posts: 28
    Thinking about replacing my RE 92s with Toyo Proxes 4s. The Toyo dealer offered a credit of $25 for each RE 92. Actually, I've never had a scary moment with the Potenzas, but there's so much negative feedback about their lack of wet traction, I thought I'd play it safe and replace them. Is it just hype?

    '05 GT LMT Wagon 5MT
  • sdufordsduford Posts: 577
    Go ahead and take that deal, you'll be safer for it. Your RE-92s are going to get much worse by the time they are at half-thread depth, which doesn't take long.

  • tsytsy Posts: 1,551
    I swapped them out. The best thing I've done for my car (and my sense of well being) If you've never pushed the RE-92a's to the limits- consider yourself lucky. It's not very far until they start losing grip. Now, it's very controllable, so that's good. What's not good is when you can't stop in time!

    I would say the wet grip on my Proxes 4s is marginally less than the DRY grip of the RE-92a's. They offer much more grip, better handling and control, shorter stopping distances, they are lighter, and a little quiter ride.

    The down side? I don't know how long the tread will last. I also don't know how the tire will wear over time. The rim protection strip is not as 'beefy'. That's about it.

    Otherwise I am very happy with them, and they were worth every penny.

  • fj60fj60 Posts: 28
    Thanks for the advice, Sly and tom. Almost went for the Proxes T1-S for no better reason than the look of the treads. Ultimately got the Proxes 4s for the all-weather capability. Les Schwab Tire threw in a pair of free steaks, too. I'm sure the meat is not of the highest quality, but I hope they're at least less rubbery than the tires they sell. :)
  • toboggantoboggan Posts: 283
    Re: msg #6500

    Had the same problem on my '98 OBW. Moved the front bar as far forward as possible. Placed the box so that the rear spoiler on the hatch had about 1" clearance with the box. Drilled new holes in the box for the hold-downs. The box rides just great - with or without skis. Have had it up to 80+ mph without problems.
  • tmontytmonty Posts: 16
    Hi Guys,

    Need some advice. I'll probably be purchasing a Legacy Wagon 2.5i or a base Outback Wagon in the next few months. My wife prefers the Outback and I prefer the Legacy. So we'll probably compromise and get the Outback =) We do some camping/Skiing/biking/etc and a Thule box is a common fixture atop our current vehicle... so the Outback would probably be a better fit. However, I'm a little concerned with the motorized seat adjustments for the driver side. I'm ~6' and my wife is ~5'4" so every time either one of us will get into the car, the seat will need to be adjusted (front/back, up/down, and backrest rake). I've never had motorized seat adjustments... preferring the mechanical, spring-loaded controls for reliability reasons. Does anybody have any info regarding past reliability issues on these electrical motors? If history is any indication, I will likely keep the vehicle for 10 years or so. I want to make sure that I'm not replacing one (or more) of these motors every couple of years. If there have been issues in the past, I may just bite the bullet and go for the more "urbanite" Legacy Wagon with the mechanical adjustments.

  • dcabdcab Posts: 101
    Having driven my 1997 Outback for eight years and now thinking about my next vehicle, I was under the impression that the Outback had gotten considerably roomier in that time. In comparing a 2005 Outback to my 1997, I see that it is a longer, wider vehicle and yet the interior dimensions are little changed, and in some cases smaller.


    1. the 05 is 188.7 inches long with a 105.1 inch wheelbase compared to 185.8 and 103.5 on the 97 and yet front legroom is only up .8 from 43.3 to 44.1 and rear legroom is DOWN from 34.8 to 33.9 (the Forester's rear legroom is listed at 33.7!).

    2. cargo capacity is listed at 36.5 cu. ft. with the seat up and 73.6 with the seat down on the 97 and only 33.5 and 66.2 on the 05 (without moonroof).

    3. the 05 is over 2 inches wider (67.5 to 69.7)and yet shoulder room barely increases: up to 54.4 inches in the front and 53.7 in the back on the 05 compared to 54.1/53.6 on my 97.

    4. the 05 has a height of 63.2 compared to the 97's 63.0. Headroom (w/o moonroof) is up .3 of an inch (40.2 to 40.5)in the front, but is down .1 in the rear seat (39.2 to 39.1).

    Am I missing something? Where did the extra inches go? Perhaps cars are measured differently today than eight years ago?
  • c_hunterc_hunter Posts: 4,487
    I don't know about the other dimensions, but the increase in width likely got eaten up by side-impact structure. The 05 model has very thick doors and much better side-impact protection than the 97.

  • krzysskrzyss Posts: 843
    There are people complaining about US bumpers, compared to JDM or European models. I wonder what is the real length increase, not counting extended US bumpers.
    I think I will search the web ;-)


    PS OK Euro Legacy is 4665mm long (183.7 in) and 1730mm wide (68.1 in).

    Now Outback is:
    Length 4730mm 186.2 in
    Width 1770mm 69.7 in
  • kmcleankmclean Posts: 173
    Hi, Tom,

    I have a 2K OB Ltd wagon with the electric motors on the driver's seat, and with four drivers of differing heights/leg lengths (wife and two daughters) they've had a real work-out with no problems. I've had other cars (some with power seats on both sides) and have never had a problem. I'd say go for it (too bad they don't have memory seats - that's a must for my next car)!

    Cheers from (unbelievably sunny) Seattle,

    Ken M.
  • tmontytmonty Posts: 16
    Thanks Ken - I appreciate the feedback. Just the same... I don't understand why they can't leave good enough alone. I don't see the value of motorizing the seat adjustments. Do you? Oh well, as long as it doesn't break...

    Cheers from snowy Ottawa,

  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,507
    Well, if they DID have memory, then I can see the value in the motorized adjustments. Otherwise, it is just there to feel fancy and teach us drivers how to be patient... ne ne ne ne ne ne ne ne ne ne.....
  • tmontytmonty Posts: 16
    Exactly. Making things complicated for no other reason than to justify a higher 'luxury' price tag. =(
  • hypovhypov Posts: 3,068
    Otherwise, it is just there to feel fancy and teach us drivers how to be patient... ne ne ne ne ne ne ne ne ne ne.....

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I like manual seat adjustments because you can move them all the way back quickly. Power seats are slow.

    My wife likes them, however.

  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    Manual seats are definetly great for large and frequent adjustments.

    However, after having driven in my 05 LGT, I am appreciating the ability to make small adjustments with the power seats on-the-fly. With manual adjustments, the increments not only tend to be bigger, but they can be hard to zero in on.

    Like ACC, power seats usually make life easier for most people, most of the time.

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Oh, I would not object to having them. I'd just rather not pay extra.

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