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Subaru Legacy/Outback 2005+

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Comments

  • dougb10dougb10 Burlington, Ontario, CanadaPosts: 185
    On my '05 Outback Limited, I replaced the RE92's with Bridgestone Turanza LS-H tires. Love 'em! Great ride and much better in rain or snow.

    Doug
  • jeffmcjeffmc Posts: 1,742
    Glad that worked out for you, John. Now I won't mind if a moderator removes my post. :) I would've posted that info from another source, if I could've found it anywhere else.
  • doug1doug1 Posts: 37
    I have the exact same problem on my 2005 OB XT. It isn't the cross bars (I've removed mine). Rather, it has something to do with the window gasket on the passenger side. I previously thought it had something to do with the sunroof or roof rack, but on my last windy trip through the Columbia Gorge a passenger was able to help troubleshoot the problem. Eventually, by sticking a map between the troubled area of the gasket and the window, we were able to get the noise to cease during that trip. The noise was coming from a section maybe 6-9 inches above the passenger-side mirror. I don't know what to do other than have the dealer replace the entire window gasket. I wish Subaru would switch to framed windows. I suspect that the issue wouldn't have arisen in that case.

    Let me know if you find any solutions, and I'll do likewise.

    Doug
  • c_hunterc_hunter Posts: 4,487
    There are 3-4 adjustments that can be made to the glass to fix the problem. The dealer should know what to do. Is it still under warranty??

    Here's an example from my previous 02 Outback, which needed this adjustment (back door):

    http://members.cox.net/craig.hunter/window/images/img_06_01.jpg

    It could also be the mirror gusset, which has adjustments too, or can be replaced cheaply. However, you made it sound like it was coming from a higher location than that. With noises, it's important to differentiate between the location of the source and the location of a "fix". Long term, you want to eliminate the source!
  • doug1doug1 Posts: 37
    Thanks for the info., Craig! That's good to know. I'll bring it up with the dealer next time I'm in. I still have 8 months of the BTB warranty left, so I'm fine on that front.

    Doug
  • Hey folks, on my 2005 Legacy 2.5i, the OEM tires are pretty crappy Bridgestone Potenza RE92's...anyone have any suggestions for the best replacement for someone in New England that is looking for a sweet all-season? I know the Yokohama AVID is nice, and Toyo Proxes TPT is swell, as well, anyone mind throwing their two cents in? Thanks!

    I'm convinced there's no such thing. We now use dedicated snows, even on our Subarus.

    There is one all-season passenger tire that has the "mountain/snowflake" severe duty snow rating. The nokian WR is not sold mail-order but there are many dealers throughout New England.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,650
    I ran through some wind last night (55-60 mph+, gusting) and found that when there were particularly strong gusts broad-siding me, the resulting vacuum on the lee side of the car actually pulled the windows slightly away from the frame gaskets and the wind noise was horrendous. As soon as the gusts would subside, so would the noise. Granted, my car is 11+ years old with 220,000 miles on it, so I am well able to tolerate such intermittent weather-induced annoyances. :D
    2010 Subaru Forester, 2011 Ford Fiesta, 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup, 1974 Ford Pinto Wagon
  • I am on my second set of Bridgestone Turanza's. I rotate every 7-8,000 miles. The last set I had lasted about 55,000 miles. I was going to have them on longer, but one needed to be replaced, so I purchased all new ones. They are expensive, but worth it in Northern New England (NH).
  • luck11luck11 Posts: 425
    I replaced my re92s with Falken Ziex this spring. Never again. I do not "mario andretti" my vehicle by any means and yet, they have worn tremendously....more quickly than any tire I have ever had. They seemed to stick well on dry and wet....which is what I wanted them for. But I don't want to replace my tires every 2nd year.

    I echo the sentiments that an all-season is really a compromise tire...especially for the winter. Go for a summer or all season that is has good dry and wet rating, then a true winter tire (snow flake on sidewall) for winter.

    Cheers.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I replace my tires every 2 years even if I don't need to as the rubber compound breaks down and you get less grip after 2 years. That's just me, so if they wear out in 2 years it's not a big deal for me.

    -mike
  • I replace my tires every 2 years even if I don't need to as the rubber compound breaks down and you get less grip after 2 years. That's just me, so if they wear out in 2 years it's not a big deal for me.

    Wow, while I applaud your dedication to safety, 2 years might be a bit excessive, with the industry recommending tire replacement based on age at 5-6 years.
    Detroit Free Press Article

    With respect to the Legacy, 205/55/16 is a super common tire size, so there are lots of choices. My last car had Dunlop SP5000s and I was happy with those. Given how cheap WRX take off wheels are on ebay, I might be tempted to pick up a set of those with the RE-92s still on them, and put snows on the other wheels...then when the 92s wear out get a fun summer tire.
  • luck11luck11 Posts: 425
    Yes, I would have to agree that every 2 years is excessive, and in fact, seems like a waste of money. But that's just me. I too have been told by a local tire shop that tires, generally, are good for 4-5 years.

    The first set of tires I ever purchased were a set of Pirelli winter tires. They began cracking after 2 years. After some research, I quickly learned that they had been manufactured 3 years BEFORE I had bought them.

    Lesson learned? Check the manufacture date on the tires before they are installed!!

    There are several sites on the net that help decipher the manufacture date code.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 30,545
    That isn't a bad idea... I start hating my tires at 30K, anyway... I've got about 43K on mine now.. and wish I had swapped them out months ago...

    Excessive maybe, but I'd be happier that way... Now..where is the phone number for my tire dealer? ;)

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  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I'm with mike on this one.

    Old tires start to crask and lose grip, because they get hard.

    I replaced an old set of Bridgestones on my Miata and new tires made a huge difference in grip.

    No more spins when you merely let off the throttle mid-turn. :surprise:

    -juice
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    It's not a matter of there being tread left, generally there is plenty of tread, however the rubber itself becomes hard and in the wet this translates to slippery. I should also note that I put on 15-20K miles a year on my cars. Usually in the 30k-35k range I start to swap tires.

    For intance on my Armada hitting 33k, the OEM Highway All Seasons are done. These Continentals were bad from day 1 in the snow, now they are bad in the rain too, there is still plenty of tread just the compound is shot. Replacing them with Bridgestone Dueller AT Revos, which apparently are great tires.

    On my Subaru I used to run Faulken Azenis Sports in the Summer for 2 summers w/a few track days thrown in on them and then they were shot.

    The way I always look at it is if I were to have an accident due to my tires being bad, I'd be kicking myself for not dropping the $500 or so on tires. Is it really worth it for $500? In my opinion $500 is a cheap price to pay for knowing you have good traction.

    Those who drive out to 5 years on your tires, could you live with yourself if you smacked up your car to save a few bucks? ;)

    -mike
  • Yes, I would have to agree that every 2 years is excessive, and in fact, seems like a waste of money. But that's just me. I too have been told by a local tire shop that tires, generally, are good for 4-5 years.
    It depends on how much you drive! We log 20-25,000 miles a year on our OBW.
  • Bridgestone has had their UNI-T technology for quite some time now. One of the advantages of it is that as the tire wears, more of the 'inner' softer compound is exposed, thus maintaining the overall softness (or hardness, if you like) of the tire. I've had Potenza RE950 on two of my vehicles, and they aged quite well. One set was on the car during winter time for a total of 34k miles, and overall period of 2.5 years, and still had good performance when I sold it. The other set has been on for almost 5 years and 55k miles, and while it's at the end of the usefull tread life, it still performs decently (unlike same age michelins on my in-laws' car). I am not aware of other manufacturers' efforts in this area, I am a fan of Bridgestone myself. But yes, 5 years is pushing it...
  • Any further suggestions on how to hook-up an MP3 player to a 2.5i 2006 Outback? I've heard it's hard to find something that integrates with the console - one idea floated was to install the 2007 console - is this feasible (and affordable)??
  • My boyfriend and I were returning from a long day hike on Mt. Tam and without warning about 40 minutes later (or any cause like hitting a pothole or speed-bump) a very loud horrible squealing noise came from the front axle - sounded a bit like metal was caught under the car. We stopped, got out, looked under the car, ran our fingers along the inside of the wheels but couldn't find anything. It has happened 2-3 times - been checked out by Subaru (up on lift etc) but they couldn't find anything. Anyone else out there have this problem?
  • wmquanwmquan Posts: 1,817
    This seems to be one of the few, and maybe the only affordable option for direct-wire hookup.

    http://www.jazzyengineering.com/

    Jazzy's solution, while a bit "different," has been insetalled by at least a few hundred Outback owners on two non-Edmunds forums and the feedback has been great.

    It's a one-man operation that started out with him tinkering around with his Outback.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,650
    Was the road paved or gravel? It sounds to me like it could just be rocks against the brake rotors - especially if the sound started suddenly and ended just as suddenly.

    A couple weeks ago I replaced my front brake pads (they had about 97,000 miles on them) because I thought the sqealer on one pad might be starting to rub. When I got the old pads off, the worst of the 4 still had ~50% life in it! Well, I went ahead and replaced them anyway since I had it apart, but I never did find any rocks stuck behind the shielding. I guess it was just a very stubborn pebble that finally managed to fall out on its own. It sure did howl like a banshee, though!
    2010 Subaru Forester, 2011 Ford Fiesta, 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup, 1974 Ford Pinto Wagon
  • c_hunterc_hunter Posts: 4,487
    I would also vote for a pebble caught in the brake rotors. Not uncommon if you were driving on back roads.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    3rd vote for a pebble.

    -mike
  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    Both Craig and I have used his solution. It requires some basic tinkering of the dash and stereo, but nothing that can't be accomplished by a novice.

    The sound quality is superb and is well worth the time.

    Wow, I can't believe how "professional" his site has become! I was one of the first ones to buy from him.

    Ken
  • c_hunterc_hunter Posts: 4,487
    Yes, little Jazzy has sure grown up, sniff sniff.

    Actually, I am glad to see he jumped on this and made a business out of it -- I always though there was a lot of potential. Just needed someone willing to make it happen.
  • kmcleankmclean Posts: 173
    Fourth vote for a pebble. Had that happen to me last summer - sure got my attention. Stopped the car (no effect on braking noted), backed up about 20-30 yards or so, that solved the problem. I assume the reverse motion helped back out the pebble the way it came in.

    Ken in (icy, snowy, frigid - but slowly warming up) Seattle
  • I purchased Michelin Pilot Sport A/S (all season) as replacements and have been very pleased. Handling improved immediately.
  • Same thing happened to me as I was exiting Home Depot. I hear SSSSSSCCCCCCEEEEEEYYYYEEEEE YYYYEEEEEYEEEEERRRREEEEEEE or something like that for 3 seconds and after I hit brakes again it went away...must be something about the design of the Subaru brakes that allows thing to get caught.
  • voxboyvoxboy Posts: 30
    hello Subaru fans: I'm a humble volvo enthusiast, but now that I'm reading good things about the Legacy GT's handling and safety, I'm taking a hard look at that choice. Are Subarus supposed to be more reliable than Volvos over time? Anyone care to comment on anything else about a S60 vs Legacy comparison? Would love to have any/all feedback.
  • jeffmcjeffmc Posts: 1,742
    Consumer Reports lists the turbo Legacy as about 35% better than average in their New Vehicle Reliability Forecast. S60 AWD shows at about 20% worse than average, near the bottom of its class (21st of 25). S60 w/front-wheel drive has much better predicted reliability than the AWD model, and is about the same as the Legacy. Every other Volvo they rated was near the bottom of its class.

    Subaru has no models rated below average. Consumer Reports says: "Above-average first-year reliability for the new Subaru Tribeca makes Subaru the only automaker to have its entire lineup of cars recommended by Consumer Reports. All Subaru's except the WRX STi have better-than-average predicted reliability. The STi is average."

    So, that's one source for you. :)

    Subaru has also surpassed Volvo in safety ratings. Legacy has the highest crash test rating in its class. I think Volvos are still very safe, but they're no longer the leaders.

    I love Volvo's style, but I think their days of durability and tank-like safety are gone and they're riding on their hard-earned past reputation at this point. A shame for a brand with such strong heritage.
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