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Comments
1. Quiet and fast - Must be careful about the cops!
2. Auto Tranny works just fine.
3. Good brakes.
4. Auto Climate Control works fine by me.
5. Can shut off "warm" air if you switch on "auto",turn knob to 65,press "fresh air" and switch off "air con"; then you get nice cool air, probably at 65 degrees ( It's simpler than it sounds). I tried this today when outside was 52.
6. Watch out for indicator signal/light when radio is on; the music sometimes drowns out the signal (which is kind of weak) and your indicator remains "on".
7. Still miss the center armrest; must order the extension when available.
8. Interior lights could be a little brighter.
9. Power windows can be improved.
10. Solid feel when you close the doors.
All in all, a very fine car. Handles and rides better than my previous Mercedes E series. Snowbird
Just try not to breath too much exhaust, ok? You might be ok now, so let's keep it that way. ;-)
Still friends? ;-)
tom
tom
Called the dealer today about my VDC but he never got back to me. You see he's been gone for ten days. got a free trip to italy from subaru.Eight weeks now and the dealership dosen't have a clue that this car may take three months to deliver.Did you just set back and wait or is there some place higher up to get answeres.With everything i've been reading here ,is it worth the wait?
That could explain the long delivery times...
LOL, look at the email address registered in my profile! I've had it since '98, when I had my last musclecar.
Still friends? ;-)
Well, duh. I haven't done it in a while, but I do love to argue for argument's sake now and then.
I realize you were trying to make a different point than I was. I just didn't want anyone to get overly alarmed about exhaust fumes-- you'll still get them while sitting in traffic and it's OK if you don't have a respirator in the car!
~Colin
You must be leaving your parking lights or headlights on during the day. That's the only time the gauges dim, and the only time dash button works to boost brightness up.
Craig
Well, who knows? But it does look like the XT (Ltd) is far and away the upper end volume leader.
Studford - No, I believe the VDCs are also made in Indiana. I can't explain the apparent shortage, though.
Lumbar - I had tried the XT also before deciding on the VDC. It was more fun to drive and I was sorely tempted, but safety won out in the end. I live in snowy Canada!
Snowbird.
BTW, you hit the 1600 km break-in yet?
Cheers,
Jay
I agree with Lumbar: a Bean/VDC would be a great idea. I would have gone for it. Also think you're all right about poor VDC sales over the past few years driving the decision to produce so few. Does seem like the smart thing would have been to merge the H6 models, as Lumbar suggests. Even smarter would have been to make VDC available as an across-the-line option....
Surfaceplate: Might seem disingenuous to counsel patience on the VDC, when I got mine the off the lot. The car is great and certainly worth a 'reasonable' wait. But, I have a chronic problem accepting the surprisingly frequent consumer indifference of car dealers and other retailers and service providers. If you can, find another dealer when the wait gets too long and the dealer is unresponsive.
Hey, I think there are more OBs than Legacys now!
We gotta catch up! Maybe I need to get another one for my wife. ;-)
I haven't seen a VDC here in the NW yet. My dealer doesn't even have one on the lot.
Has anyone noticed their steering wheel is off center? Just a little? It's almost not enough to get fixed, but a little annoying.
Colin- it's OK if you don't have a respirator in the car!
Actually, I used to carry around a breathing tube and laryngoscope to put it in just in case I ever arrived at an accident or emergency!
Hey, you weren't in speech and debate, were you? Maybe you missed your calling as a lawyer! LOL! ;-)
tom
Don
I have been following some of the banter and just thought I would chime in.
I have an 05 LGT-LTD 5MT (about 6 weeks old). The ACC, while adequate, is a little quirky. First, it switches to recirc automatically when turning the A/C off. To me, recirc should be the decision of the driver only (not the ACC). Second, when behind a truck or bus, I often switch to recirc to avoid smelling diesel fumes. I have done this with every car I've owned. With my Legacy, recirc does not seem to cut the fumes much so I can't say it works very well. Third, The A/C does not turn off when switched to auto (maybe it's not cold enough yet where I live so we'll see if this changes). Fourth, I am also getting much warmer air that what is outside the car when I set temp to 65 and turn off the A/C. That setting should just bring in outside air without changing the temp of it, no?
Another gripe: I have 1600 mi. and I'm only getting about 21 MPG in mixed driving. Are those of you who are getting 25-27 MPG totally staying off the gas pedal or is some "fun driving" part of your routine? Perhaps my right foot is a little heavy.
Option Question: I ordered the popular equipment package which included an upgraded alarm system. how does the upgrade differ from the standard alarm system? What advantage(s) am I getting?
All that said, I still love the car. It is the complete package. It kicked [non-permissible content removed] through the torrential rains of hurricane Gene in S. Jersey - didn't miss a step. I can't wait for the first snow.
Thanks,
Faceoffking
But I guess some people are pickier than others, as many here seem to think the ACC is just fine as it is.
Personally I expect HAL (the ACC) to be working to keep ME comfortable, not the other way around!
Perhaps as the cold weather approaches, I'll notice this quirkiness more, but at this point in time, I really can't say its been an issue with me. Manual controls are far more burdensome, in my opinion, since I would often turn up the heat in winter and not clue into the fact that it was too hot until the sweat started forming on my forehead.
In Canada, the upgraded alarm essentially adds a shock sensor to the security system so if someone or something bumps your vehicle, it sets off alarm. If this is true for the US, then after market may have been a less expensive alternative. Up here, dealer wants C$188 for the sensor, plus labor I believe. Local performance shop would supply and install an aftermarket shock sensor (state of the art DEI product....makers of most aftermarket alarms) for about C$90.
That last part is normal -- heat is usually at floor level and cooling at panel level. Even on manual systems, they normally recommend that mix for the best comfort, in many different vehicle types. So I would say that Subaru just programmed the system to mimic the accepted best strategies for heating and cooling.
Also, the temps you used are somewhat arbitrary unless we know the outside temp and the inside temp relative to the set points. Remember, the system can only do so much -- it will attempt to cool if you dial in a set point that is lower than the inside temp, and it will attempt to heat if the opposite. I believe the fan level varies based on how far the inside temp is from the set point, meaning it controls how agressively the system heats and cools. But that's about it. There is some input from the sun sensor, but it's not always useful (since it's in one corner of the dash).
Keep in mind that I have an intimate, and somewhat jaded, view of control systems. This is how they behave whether it's automotive HVAC or aircraft S&C. It's clear in this case that the Subaru HVAC system is kind of primitive in the way it chases after set points and oscillates to convergence. Could they have made it better? Most likely. Otherwise we are seeing classic control system behavior. Whenever you try to program a system to make decisions and control something as importat as climate (which many people are sensitive and irritable about), it's bound to make at least 50% of the users unhappy!
Craig
Can you describe the smell of the fumes?? Does it smell like exhaust, burning oil, burning clutch/brakes, burning AT/PS fluid, or coolant?? These are all unique odors that can help trace the problem.
With the heater, do you notice a difference between the 65 and 85 settings?? Is it 101 and 101++, respectively, coming out of the vents?? If it's a consistent 101 or so all the time, I would suspect the heater core valve is jammed open so that it's always heating the air. It could be as simple as looking down around the heater and it's cables and linkages to see if something is stuck. When changing the temp knob, you should definitely see/hear some sort of actuation of a cable and/or linkage down around the heater.
If something was installed improperly in the dash, it may be interfering with the system. For instance, I unknowingly blocked the mode select cable in my WRX when I installed some stereo upgrades, and didn't realize something was wrong until months later when I could not get it to defrost. It was a simple fix to trace the mechanism associated with the mode knob (that was a manual system) and see that a wire was in the way.
Craig
And that is the whole point, the system is too dumb to take the outside air temp into account, it just says "oh, I have to cool now, let's turn the A/C on". And why does the A/C indicator always stay on? We have no way to know if it is wasting energy by using A/C when it isn't really needed. It should turn on and off with the A/C itself...
I'm actually starting to think that the HAL moniker is no longer appropriate; HAL was pretty smart, just too smart in fact.
The Subaru ACC has the following problems that I can deduce from the user manual and observation:
There is only one interior temperature sensor, on the driver's side, so it can only "pretend" to offer seperate temp controls for driver and passenger. Ditto for the sunshine sensor, which is located in front of the passenger.
That single temp sensor is poorly placed and reacts too slowly, causing the temperature to overshoot the setting.
There appears to be no input from an outside temp sensor, or if there is, the algorithm is very dumb!
The overall temp control algorithm is too dumb to start slowing down before it reaches the set temperature, making the overshoot problem even worst.
So bottom line is that the ACC works, but it is very crude indeed, not worthy of such an otherwise fine automobile. It amazes me that Subaru has been living with this cheap ACC for years and hasn't done anything about it.
Now, I sure hope Subaru engineers do a better job with the power management program on their hybrid prototype!
While I never had burn me or freeze me, i've never seen any ACC system that was set and forget, nor do I know anyone who has had one in any vehicle (lexus, MB, Honda, or otherwise)
-mike
Craig
Ken
My Maxima has an ACC, which was truly set-and-forget when I lived in South Texas and A/C was the primary "climate-controller." It did startle me very early one morning (the first truly cool morning) when it delayed starting the fan until the engine had warmed up enough to produce heat - then cranked out warm air at max fan setting (had to go re-read the manual to figure that one out). It does have a handy override system (that essentially converts as many of the "auto" functions to "manual" as you wish) that includes disabling the compressor. Up here in Seattle I use the manual settings almost entirely, in part because the ACC can't recognize when defrosting (versus simple heating) is required (hence the separate "defrost" button). I just hope the sucker never breaks (I can imagine the $$$).
Hope you get bugs worked out!
Cheers from (amazingly) sunny Seattle!
Ken M.
I'd set up a case with Subaru (1-800-SUBARU3) just so that they can follow the progress made by your dealer.
Good luck.
Ken
If you notice, the HVAC system will always start in recirc mode since it's the fastest way to cool the interior of the vehicle. If you shut off A/C, the system will go into recirc mode in a best effort to maintain the set temperature.
For me, I've just learned to dial down the temperature to 65, hit A/C and then recirc.
Ken
As already mentioned extreme temps are worse. Set it and forget it? My parents' '95 Continental.
-Dennis
-mike
I didn't buy my LGT for the ACC, so it doesn't bug me that it's not perfect. It's just not a big deal to me to adjust the fan or temperature once in a while. It's not a Mercedes or BMW, and I don't expect it to be.
tom
So why bother with the extra expense and complexity of an ACC that you have to manually fiddle with? Subaru should do it right (it's not rocket science) or leave it out.
Out of curiosity, do you fiddle more or less with it when it's in automatic mode vs. manual mode?
Ken
there is a very high probability that the problem is too high of sulfur fuel. switch brands. make sure you're using premium of course.
in a few years when the low sulfur fuel mandate becomes active, this won't be a problem. but until then, a batch of high sulfur fuel can readily clog a catalyst and cause a rotten egg smell.
usually a few tanks of lower sulfur fuel fixes it, but if not that's what your factory emissions warranty is for-- have the dealership replace all the catalysts (probably 2-3).
~Colin
I would say that I fiddle with it about the same amount when in manual mode, perhaps a little less, depending on the weather conditions. And I would fiddle with it even less if it didn't insist on selecting extra settings for me every time I touch a button.
There is one thing I like about it though, that's the one-touch defrost/defogger mode.
Keep in mind my car is the non-turbo 2.5i, so the fumes are probably not turbo-related. The fumes I smell are not exhaust fumes, but fumes coming from the hot catalytic converter on the passenger side (if that makes any sense?). This seems to be similar to what you are describing.
Also, like you, I would take the TL any day over the Legacy if it had AWD. I predict the TL will have AWD for its 2007 "refreshening".
But in the under $30K class, it's hard to beat the performance, safety, and value of the Legacy, IMHO. ;-) (sheesh, I'm starting to sound like a car saleman)
Of course, I'd take an M5 over my LGT anyday, if I could get one for the same price! ;-)
tom