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Mercedes-Benz E-Class Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • bottomsuppbottomsupp Posts: 11
    For the money (...saving same)

    Les Swab tires hands down (WA/OR/ID/CA/etc...

    1995 E320 = toyo proxies speed rated. with a 65000 mile warranty. The next best warranty is Continental @40,000.

    BUT…
    The service and quality PLUS added…can not be qualified.

    EXAMPLE: When I did not like my tire rotation …tires were 4wheel aligned then rotated (off rim=directional) AT NO CHARGE! with/a smile!

    I always get my tires with them… can’t be beat…
  • steve500steve500 Posts: 11
    :D I need to change my front pads on my 2003 E500. It's got about 42k miles on it. It's the first pad change. I find the large amount of black dust to be somewhat annoying and would like to replace the OEM pads with a low dust or even no dust alternative. But I don't want racing pads nor something that has a significantly different brake pedal fell or that wears the rotors out too fast.

    I heard that the EBC "Greenstuff" might be a good choice. Any experience with EBC or any other recommendations?
  • sailsail Posts: 17
    Installed on 98 E300D. No problem and brake dust has virtually been eliminated. My beef with OEM pads dust. No disk problems. Would recommend the pads.
  • steve500steve500 Posts: 11
    Thanks, Sail. I'll go w/ the EBC Greenstuff.
    BTW, how did you hear about EBC?
  • sailsail Posts: 17
    http://www.perfectbrakes.com/ Sorry upon checking it appears the tirerack does not carry them anymore. Please try above link
  • I have 2002 e240, and have the same problem. The dealer of MB told me the must replace the whole pannel, but I am not sure that this is the solution.
  • greasykid1greasykid1 Posts: 336
    Can be repaired. Do an online search or look at STAR magazine.........MB club publication.
  • microrepairmicrorepair Eastern MassachusettsPosts: 508
    I've been meaning to post a note re: PBR pads and rotors that I bought about 6 months ago from SASPOnline.com. I have bought items from these folks a number of times over the last 4-5 years and have always been pleased with their pricing, accuracy, and fast shipping. I don't remember where I heard about this brand but they were advertised as "low" dust and I too have gotten fed up with black rims on the front of my 2001 E320 and also on the 96 E320 I had.. These PBR pads are "dust free" compared to the OEM pads and I have only had to clean the rims once in 6 months or about 8000 miles...! A far cry from needing cleaning once or twice a month with the OEM pads.. And the PBR pads and rotors show no performance variance from the OEM.. I got 2 rotors, a set of pads, and 2 sensors from SASP for $169.87 back in January. Their prices are a few cents higher right now, but they are still cheaper than OEM..

    They are at;
    www.SASPOnline.com
  • microrepairmicrorepair Eastern MassachusettsPosts: 508
    I am planning to replace the plugs and wires in my E320 but when I went to order the plugs, the online catalogs suggest there are 2 plugs per cylinder. Since the Owners Manual offers no info on that and since I can't figure out how to get the engine covers off, I'm hoping someone out there has some words of wisdom on 1.) removing the engine covers, and 2.) whether there are, in fact, 2 plugs per cylinder on this engine..

    :confuse: :)
  • steve500steve500 Posts: 11
    After some research, I ordered the pads from racepages.com. They were the less expensive choice that had the pads in stock. Many places needed to get them out of England and had a 3 - 4 week delivery time. Racepages had them in stock and I received them w/i 5 days. The cost was $92. The sensors and shipping were free.

    I'll post my opinion on the pads after I get some time and experience under my belt.
  • steve500steve500 Posts: 11
    I just had them installed and they feel very nice. Two small items though: 1) the sensors that came with them didn't fit my 2003 E500, so I bought new sensors locally. 2) the "+" sign still is displayed on my dash board. I thought the "+" sign indicated that the brakes needed to be replaced, so I'm surprised that the plus sign is still displayed after the new brakes. Please, does anyone know more about this issue? Do I need to reset something?
  • schugofschugof Posts: 1
    What was the solution to the EC (economy mode) button stuck on activate position? The original question was question #473 on March 24, 2005.
    schugof@yahoo.com
  • pvellozopvellozo Posts: 19
    i have a 2002 e320. recently i got a "battery-altenator fault' message and took the car in to the dealer.
    they say the poly belt was shredded. they replaced the belt(which was not covered by the warranty) and the car drives fine for now.
    i wonder if it is unusual for this belt to fail at 43000 miles and if it is a sign of some underlying problem which they should have looked for.would appreciate any input.
  • microrepairmicrorepair Eastern MassachusettsPosts: 508
    Hmm, maybe you should have ordered from SASPonline.com (tic) :cry: The sensors they sent me fit my 2001 just fine and I didn't get any "+" sign on the dash either..
  • jodar96jodar96 Posts: 396
    I have a 2001 E430. The plastic engine cover is in place by several plastic prongs on the cover that go over rubber bushings on the engine. Grab the cover on both sides of front section and gently pull up, then move rearward and do the same. It will come off very easy. All 98-2002 3.2 and 4.3 engines use duel spark plugs at each cylinder, and the plugs for each cylinder are mounted side by side. Once you take the cover off, you will see the dual wires going from each coil pack to side of the engine.

    I wonder if you need to replace the wires...How many miles do you have on your car? I don't know if you have to remove each coil pack in order to get more room to reach the plugs.

    Do NOT buy any plug but the ones that came with the car. The dealer service advisor told me that the wires already have resistors built into plug wire booth. When you use resistor type spark plugs, you could mess up and burn the coils.

    Since plugs are changed once every 100K miles, go ahead and buy the original $9 plugs, instead of $4 platinum from AutoZone. The owners manual tells you what type of plugs are used in your engine.

    Joe
  • I just spent the past couple of hours scanning through the nearly 800 messages in this forum. In summary, it seems most of the electrical problems occurred in the 2003 model year, although other model years certainly have had problems, just seemingly not as prevalent as '03.

    I am looking at buying a 2004 E320 4Matic Wagon with 11,000 miles on it from a dealership. It would have the Certified pre owned warranty until 5 years or 100,000 miles. Also because it is an '04 regular maintenance would be free under the warranty period.

    They have it listed at $42,900. I offered $37,000. They countered at $39,000 but said at that price I couldn't have the extended warranty, just the factory warranty (which goes to 4 years, 50,000 miles).

    As someone mentioned, these cars seem to have an expensive mid-life crisis. Seems to me that the 5 year, 100k warranty is worthwhile.

    I was able to talk to the original owner. By pure coincidence he is a neighbor. He said they never had any problems with the car with one exception, that when they wouldn't start it for a week or so, the battery would be dead. They were told they needed to drive it more often but the service dept. also did something to it (on the Carfax report, it states something along the lines of Jump Start, etc). The original owner said that after that, they went on a 2 week vacation, came back, and the car started no problems. They really liked the car but his wife missed having a MB convertible, so they traded the wagon in for another one of those.

    I don't think we will take the $39K with only factory warranty deal. AFter reading these boards, I am not sure I have the stomach to own one of these cars.... It must be very upsetting to buy one of these cars new at full price and deal with such constant problems.

    any advice for me??

    I need an AWD car (with enough room for 2 car seats and gear associated with 2 little kids). Don't want another SUV and no minivan either. $37 - $38 is sort of the top of our budget, would be happy to spend less though!
  • barry45rpmbarry45rpm Posts: 98
    Get the Warranty! I love my '04 E 500, the way it rides, looks, etc... but the endless trips back to the dealer to fix one electronic problem after another is getting to be enough to get me to start thinking "I wouldn't want to buy another MB".
  • dee9520dee9520 Posts: 4
    The hidden rust was so bad on the retainer bracket for the top end of the right front wheel spring that the spring fell out on the floor of my garage and the car dropped down on the tire. It is a 1998 E320 two wheel drive. Had this happened while on the road two minutes before I would have been killed. I found out in just one day that there have been 4 similar serious rust problems in Lacrosse, Wi in models from 1994 to 1999. I don't think you can inspect for this problem since the critical area is hidden between the .045" thick bracket and the wheel well. I am warning all my friends who own a Mercedes E class. I have contacted my congressman and my lawyer about this problem.
    Pictures available.">
  • dee9520dee9520 Posts: 4
    Electric rear window opener problem 1998 E320. Both rear window motors failed. The first was covered under warrante, but the second one cost $400 to fix. The dealer in St Louis said that he was getting good at fixing them since he did 9 in the last 6 months. I was charged for 1.5 hr flat rate, but it only took 15 minutes. The only problem with the drive was that a cheap plastic wheel was used that was so distorted that the cable would not stay on. A good wheel from Phillips Plastics would have cost less than 5 cents. Is Mercedes cheap, or what.
  • dee9520dee9520 Posts: 4
    I have a 1998 and both of my rear window openers failed too. I don't think I had used either one more than 5 times before the failures. The second one cost me $400, but I got the failed unit and analysed the problem. Mercedes uses a very cheap plastic wheel that could not cost more than 5 cents. The cheap plastic used seems to have distorted over time so that the thin cable will not stay on it. If they had purchased the plastic wheel from Phillips Plastics Inc, they would not have had the problem and they could have purchased the wheel for 4 cents.
  • garyh1garyh1 Posts: 386
    I have a 1998 and both of my rear window openers failed too. I don't think I had used either one more than 5 times before the failures. The second one cost me $400

    I too have a '98 E320, and yesterday we took it in to have a rear window fixed - for $363 (independent shop). My wife took it out this morning, and my son lowered the rear window on the other side, and guess what - that one broke. Unbelievable coincidence - and another $363 "out the window"! Like Dee, the windows had rarely been used (and the car has only about 35,000 miles on it). BTW, I also have a '94 E320 wagon, and have already replaced one back window opener in it as well.

    This is clearly a manufacturing defect. Our mechanic joked that someone at MB must be sleeping with someone at the the supplier of this part (Bosch?), because MB continued to use them for years with this known defect.

    Has anyone been successful in getting money out of Mercedes when this defective part is repaired out of warranty?
  • bigrobnhbigrobnh Posts: 114
    My parents have a 2000 E320. They've had 3 rear window mechanisms fail. For them, it doesn't just stop working. The window starts up, then drops the glass so suddenly that it shatters.
    3 of them...that means they've replaced at least one with another faulty part. They live in Florida and I'm convinced it's heat related.

    My 2001 has not had it happen. I live in New Hampshire. I have several issues that DO show themselves when the car has been out in a hot parking lot all day.

    Someone over a year ago put a link in the E Class forum to an MSNBC story on how Mercedes put pressure on suppliers to reduce costs so that Mercedes could maintain their target margins. When suppliers pushed back, they were allowed to increase their tolerances and, basically, supply lower quality parts.

    My experience over the past 5 years is a tribute to that having been the case.

    Oh, and those wondering if an extended warranty will help. It will help you in the case of catastrophic failure. Windows dropping out, failed headlight washers, failed climate control fan speed regulators, non-functional AM radios, failed instrument clusters, etc will not be covered.

    Regards,
    BigRob.
  • majret1majret1 Posts: 1
    Going thru the exact same quandry. First, wouldn't buy it without the extended warranty. Other makes will negotiate the price of the extended warranty. Not sure if MB will. All they can say is no. I talked to the service manager at the MB Dealer. There were problems with the 03s, fewer with the 04s and supposedly the 05s are back to the same old MB reliability. Of course he works for the dealer. But it does seem that most of the problems centered around the 03s (first year of the model change) Have owned an '87 E class and an '80 S class. They ARE expensive to repair. My experience is that, with the old ones any, they stay repaired. But you can forgive a lot for the pleasure of driving the car. It will drive the same way 10 years from now as the day you picked it up. Have driven BMWs, Audis, Acuras, etc. Nothing drives like an MB.
  • dee9520dee9520 Posts: 4
    The problem with the MB window opener design is the little plastic wheel that the cable runs over. The wheel gets distorted over time for some reason and the cable will not stay on. The guide system for the cable looks like some [non-permissible content removed] toy made in 1950. With a new 10 cent wheel you could fix the unit, but MB throws the whole works away and charges $400 for the repair. It takes 15 minutes to fix and MB charges you the flat rate of 1.5 hours. I think MB has made over a million dollars with the window scam.
  • spot2spot2 Posts: 15
    I have a '96 E320.with 60,000 kilometers on it. But it doesn't! Just discovered it is reading in miles. The speedometer is in Kilometers.Has anyone run into this? What to do? Is this a factory botch up or what? Both the trip meter and the odometer are reading in miles and I've already heard "that can't be". :confuse:
  • bfloozerbfloozer Posts: 1
    Did you ever find a solution? I have a '99 E320 with the same symptoms. Other sites have suggested the ignition switch, crank position sensor, fuel relay and sunspot activity. Hope you have solved it and can share it here. Thanks.
  • johnboypsjohnboyps Posts: 6
    I have a 05 E500. It's always in the shop as well.
  • greasykid1greasykid1 Posts: 336
    When I had my 2001 E320 w/Starmark falling windows WERE COVERED BY WARRANTY.
  • My 1995 E420 blinkers, emergency flashers, and delay wipers started working intermittently after removing and replacing the front floormats. Any ideas??
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