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Mercedes-Benz E-Class Maintenance and Repair

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  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,972
    WEll if you could find the sensor in the block, you could ground the wire that connects it to the engine block and have someone read the gauge...if the gauge goes all the way to maximum (oil pressure I mean)then the gauge is okay, it must be the sensor. You can usually just unscrew the sensor and put in a new one with a deep socket of the proper size. You can't really test a pressure sensor very easily.

    A more scientific method is to temporarily install an analog (direct pressure) gauge that is not electrical and see how it reads while you are driving. That would tell if if something is amiss in the engine.

    IMO, 180 degrees temperatures are fine, ( I assume we are talking FARENHEIT here) because your cooling system is operating under pressure, which means that the boiling point of the coolant is raised....I think one degree of boiling point for every 2 degrees of pressure in the radiator cap. Engines like to run hot for best thermal efficiency and modern cars are actually running 225 degrees at certain times...which is why many manufacturers don't put in "real" temp gauges anymore, but either give you a light or an "H" and "C" symbol. If you run too cold, your engine can sludge up....so you know, like Goldilocks....not too hot (above 225), not too cold (below 160), just right (180)....some folks running marine engines might be used to lower temperatures but those engines are run under quite different conditions than car engines.

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  • I need help I have a e 500 2004 that I have leased for 39 months. I am 24 months into the lease and the car has developed a gas leak. This is the first problem that I have had with this car. It has 18,490 miles. I took the car to the dealer on sept. 6. They said they fixed the problem and would deliver the car back on fri. sept 8. They called and said they had a minor accident with the car on the way to deliver it back to me. I went to the dealership the following day to look at the damage. It was only cosmetic damage to the rear bumper. The car was painted and returned to me the following Mon. night. The car was returned to me dirty from the body shop. I went to run the car through the car wash and fuel it up. When i got home fuel poured out from the bottom of the car. They picked the car up again the following day. They kept the car for 2 weeks had to replace the back seat due to fuel contamination. I had a conversation with the managing owner of the dealership about the fact that I was not comfortable with ever driving the car again because of safety issues. He said he agreed and he would help me get out of the lease and into a new 2006 e5oo. When i was presented the deal it was no deal at all he just added expenses to what a normal lease would be on the car. after i declined the deal on the new lease they returned the car back to me they said it was fixed but when i fueled it up it leaked again they picked it up again the next day.It is now @30 days that i have been without the car and i have no relief in sight. I dont even have a loaner car. What should i do! I have consulted my lawyer but i dont think that is the way to go. HELP!
  • Forget the above post, MB steped up to the plate and released me from the E500 lease today. I am going to lease a 2007 ml 500. What a relief!!!!!!!
  • Why don't you think that's the way to go? You are getting screwed over!
  • You are foolish to accept another Mercedes. Mercedes put your life in DANGER!!! The Mercedes product is not what it used to be.
    Mercedes bought my car back under the lemon law, gave me a great deal on another new Mercedes (ML500). Had it for a year, so many nagging problems, couldn't wait to get rid of it.

    Try BMW or Lexus.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 10,913
    A reporter from a large daily newspaper is looking to speak to Mercedes-Benz owners in the Washington DC area about the expectations you have with the car when you purchase it and any problems you’ve had to deal with. Please provide your daytime contact info to ctalati@edmunds.com no later than Monday, October 16, 2006.

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  • jodar96jodar96 Posts: 396
    My problem was the battery. I did not have the radio code to reactivate it. I called the dealer, gave them the VIN and they told me the code.

    If the battery is four years old, my suggestion is to replace it. Mine went 5.5 years. It was a stretch and I was planning on replacing it before Winter. It went out before I had a chance to do it.

    Joe
  • I had my second rear window failure in 2 months on my 2000 E320. The dealer was absolutely no help in offering to support the fix. Not to mention they could not have been more arrogant. I paid over $450 for the first failure to be repaired and don't look forward to spending that amount again for a second MB engineering design flaw. I then called the "Customer Support" area and they said it was totally the dealers call. To make matters worse I purchased a new E350 from the same dealership just before the failure - it didn't mean a thing to them. Does anybody have any recommendations and/or has anyone received any monetary support for this all too frequent problem?
  • Jodar96

    1. When a battery is dead, it's dead and won't give you any warning. That's why I always change my car's battery before its time

    2. Call any MB dealer, give them your VIN # and they will give you the code. They will check a few things with you to make sure that you are the real car owner. It happened to me.

    Good luck
  • mezecamezeca Posts: 66
    That couldn't be further from the truth. Even older vehicles had thermostats between 160 and 180 degrees.
    Todays vehicles have thermostats around 195+ degrees for
    emissions purposes.
  • Hi
    I recently bought a 1999 E320 in the us that had gone 56k miles. First couple of months it drove fine. Recently, I slowed down in an expressway due to traffic and then tried to accelerate when I noticed that I had to give a lot of gas to accelerate and the engine speeed was also way too high. I drove for a while and then came to a stop at a gas station when I shifted to P (park) the car jolted front. I switched of the engine and started after a few minutes and the car drove fine. This had happened two times in the last 4 days. This used to be drive in east coast for the first 3 years and then in California for the 4 years.
    Can someone please tell me the possible root-cause of this symtoms I had explained? What do you advice I do?
    Is the transmission go bad?
    Thank you very much in advance.
  • I had a similar problem at the same mileage and it turned out to be an exhaust problem. Have that checked out as MB has been repairing that problem free due to a faulty design. Apparently the ceramics in the exhaust disintegrate and block the exhaust flow.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    Sounds like a problem with the catalytic converter. The platinum catalist is coated on ceramic beads which rest on multiple fine metal grids in the exhaust gas flow. If the metal grids deteriorate/warp, it can affect exhaust gas extraction with some "interesting" driveability issues. The good news is that automakers are on the hook for catalytic converters for the first eight years or eighty-thousand miles, whichever comes first, under the Federal emissions warranty. Gub'mnt intrusion into commerce, environmental, and social issues is a terrible burden on the citizenry (except when you're the beneficiary of its meddling... ;)).
  • mbmexmbmex Posts: 2
    i don't know the name of that thing, i live in mexico, but my 1998 e320 had the same problem and it was a device that is located between the air filter and the admission and regulates the air flow. mercedes dealer charged me about $ 180.00 but a $ 30.00 unit can be bought elsewhere, only if i would know.
  • pentzypentzy Posts: 2
    My 2000 E320 4 matic has a few small problems. I get a slight vibration on initial take off much like bad tires. The tires and alignment are fine. Also there is a slight rear end noise when I let off the gas. The noise goes away when there is slight acceleration. The most annoying is a high frequency squeal that comes intermittently. It sounds like a squeach on a microphone or the cars telephone. My car no longer makes that telephone dial up sound that it did before.The noise is more prevalent when the heater is on.
  • pentzypentzy Posts: 2
    My 2000 E320 seems to have the same problem. It sounds like a cheap microphone squelch. I thought it was the radio then the heater, but it sounds like a phone or CB squelch tone. My car used to make a dial up noise when you started it but I don't hear that anymore.I own my own body shop and would like to have some info before I start looking
  • Have 2006 E sedan bought new; now have approx. 7.7k miles. Three or four times now (that I have noticed), car bellows large cloud of blue smoke when I start it. Seems to occur when I start the car and move it (like back it out of the garage, turn it off and restart it say an hour later). I have as yet to confirm this sequence. My first guess is oil leaking down the valve stems as engine temp. is cold and there is a cold temp. clearance problem. Oil consumption is close to zero. Anyone else having this problem or do I again have the good fortune to be the only person in the world to have this problem? Otherwise, I love the car, excellent performance and gas mileage, handles like a dream. Just embarassing as hell to have a new $55k car that smokes like a Cuban taxicab.
  • It's in warranty. Take it in and let Lexus tell you what's wrong. It shouldn't do that.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    "Lexus"? Is that the new, alternate spelling for "Mercedes-Benz", steve3226? ;) (been there, done that myself)
  • Sorry, my error. I have both brands and have had far less problems with Lexus. What I should have said is: Take it back to the dealer and require them to fix it since it's in warranty.
  • Steve,

    You mention you have both Lexus and M B. I have had Toyota Camrys and love them. Sold on long term reputation of Toyota. Assume the same from Lexus....

    What about Mercedes? Seem a lot less expensive on the used side than a Lexus.

    Looking at a $16,000 purchase, one of many. Like 4 Dr Sedans.

    Any advice would be welcome.

    Thanks,

    Jeff
  • microrepairmicrorepair Eastern MassachusettsPosts: 508
    Jeff,

    I've got my second E320 bought when they were approx. 2 to 2.5 years old. Since the only Lexus that fits me (6'3") is the LS, the used E320 is a LOT less money than a used LS. And the MB Starmark Certified warranty is pretty much the best in the business. No co-pay, etc. and I usually buy some extra time to make sure that the mileage/time coincide roughly around the same time.

    Fred
  • Thanks Fred. I noticed that the E 320 is a lot less money than the LS 400, when both used. I am 6'2" and like the room too. I just drove a 1999 E 320, 58000 mi, and $15,900.

    It had a lot of surface marks, and a ton of pits on the front grill, pass. I am picky.

    But, the car itself looks like the one to own. I love the LS 400, in white particularly. But a 1998 with 80K miles was on the Lexus lot for $18,000...doesn't make sense. I would rather have the silver E 320 at 1999 or so for less.

    Anything that I need to watch for as far as normal repairs in the first 100,000 miles? The salesperson always says nothing, but my Midas guy says pads and Rotors up front cost $600 and go quickly...due to the pads being too hard and the rotors too soft.

    THanks...anything else I should watch for on this vehicle?

    I assume repairs are very costly, but I have a Import Parts place that is like a Napa for imports.

    Jeff
  • I like the way the E-320 handles (I've had 2). That said, Mercedes has given me a lot more mechanical problems. I've even had the entire transmission replaced on one (luckily, under warranty). My current '01 E-320 is still on extended warranty and I've not had any problems this past year. When it expires, I'll sell or trade it. Repairs are VERY expensive. I would NOT buy an old Mercedes out of warranty.

    My wife loves her Lexus RX330. Zero problems in 2+ years. I have an '01 Lexus IS300 w/ 52K miles for sale for $15,575, if you're interested. It's fun to drive but very cramped.
  • jodar96jodar96 Posts: 396
    I have a 2001 E430 with 82K miles. Bought it in March 2006 with 72K miles at the local MB dealer. It had three previous owners. It appears the car was gently used; no scuff marks in the interior, decent shape leather/carpet, no curb damage on alloys, and no underbody rust/leaks.

    The engine has a noise at cold starts. It sounds like a lifter noise. When the engine warms up the sound goes away.

    I checked the service record at the dealer before buying the car, it had its A and B service on time every time. I have changed the oil/filter myself and have used Mobile 1 0W-40 oil.

    If it is lifter noise, does anyone know if MB will fix this at their expense. I know MB had a mess on its hand when people were going over 10-15K miles with regular oil with FSS. I change the oil every 7500 miles and do not trust even the modified 10K interval, but will stay with Mobile 1 for any future issues.

    Thanks,
    Joe
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    )) "The engine has a noise at cold starts. It sounds like a lifter noise. When the engine warms up the sound goes away. ... If it is lifter noise, does anyone know if MB will fix this at their expense." ((

    Dunno about M-B's willingness to comp goodwill repair work out of warranty, but that initial clatter might merely be timing chain noise through the plastic guides until the auto-tensioner pumps up with full oil pressure after a cold start. Might have an independent M-B tech give a listen and render an opinion. Then go from there. I have no issues about Mobil 1, but for an experiment, given what you related, I would try one oil change to Castrol Syntec Full Synthetic German Formula 0W-30. While nominally a 30 weight once warmed to operating temperature, it's a high 30 nudging hard at 40 according to used oil analysis reports archived at BobIsTheOilGuy.com. The Castrol is formulated to meet or exceed M-B's 229.1, 229.3, and 229.5 oil spec advisories.
  • Just came home from my MB dealer. MB is now recommending a "special" MB only oil--5W-40. This oil is only available at MB dealers.

    Anybody else heard about this?
  • Have 2005 E320CDI with only 12,000 mi. Going to keep this car a long time.

    Need info from anybody who has recently bought an MB extended warranty from a dealer. MB did not offer this until recently unless it was puchased at the time the car was bought. Heard that this can now be done at a later time.

    Any help appreciated.
  • jodar96jodar96 Posts: 396
    Thanks for your respond. Are you saying 40 weight might be too thick? No body says to use multi-viscosity oil with 40 or 50 high end weight except MB, BMW.

    I had a 92 325i with an in-line 2.5 engine that had to use 10W40 winter and 20W50 in summer.

    Joe
  • Jeff,

    You wrote, "I would rather have the silver E 320 at 1999 or so for less. Anything that I need to watch for as far as normal repairs in the first 100,000 miles? The salesperson always says nothing, but my Midas guy says pads and Rotors up front cost $600 and go quickly...due to the pads being too hard and the rotors too soft. THanks...anything else I should watch for on this vehicle?"

    I purchased a '99 E-320 4Matic Wagon with 56k miles and have been very happy overall with it as it approaches the 100k mark. Beautiful driving and handling characteristics, solid, safe, perfect for the wife/kid.

    Repair experiences: The front brake pads lasted 32k miles between replacements which I didn't feel was too bad. We did have to spring for a catalytic converter at 93k but most manufacturers don't make them to last past 80-100k so I'm comfortable with that as well. Got 40k miles on the stock Continental tires. I was disappointed when the sun roof stopped sliding past about 3 inches at 82k miles and will opt to fix that after the rainy season. Replaced a brake switch and a smattering of bulbs. But overall, nothing really serious to complain about so I'm happy.

    From what I've read (including Consumer Reports), you may do better to stick to the '99 or earlier models for a used E-320. Mercedes is working feverishly to repair their tarnished reputation for way too many electrical problems so I would wait till 2008 if I was in the market for a new one. Good Luck!

    John
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