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Mercedes-Benz E-Class Maintenance and Repair

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  • yanolayanola Posts: 1
    HELP....MY 1992 300E SURVIVED KATRINA JUST FINE BUT NOW I HAVE A VERY LOUD FRONT END SQUEAK ON THE DRIVER SIDE. ANY IDEAS. I HAVE TRIED LUBRICATING THE PARTS UNDER THERE BUT THAT HAS NOT HELPED.

    THANKS!
    YANOLA
  • I almost had a wreck this past weekend. I was trying to turn around on an incline. I put the car in reverse and when I took my foot off the break to give it gas, the car started rolling forward. Has anyone else had this problem?

    I have 07 E350. Now my wife is affraid to drive the car.

    Any comments would be appreciated.

    Thanks

    Stockerup
  • Took my car back after 3 days with my MB master mechanic.. It's $1711 total (head gasket, head bolts, 6 new spark plugs, new coolant fluid, new oil and filter...$1300 for labor). He has regular oil in now, and he asks me to bring the car back after 300 miles to flush out the regular oil and replace with Mobil 1. Hopefully this head gasket issue will not happen again after another 200K miles.

    Anybody has any experience with reoccurence after head gasket replacement? Thanks
  • microrepairmicrorepair Eastern MassachusettsPosts: 508
    I'm assuming it's OK to mention the name of the "good" guys in this forum, so I'll say that I've bought two slightly used E-class cars from Wagner Motors in Boylston, MA, a suburb of Worcester. They have treated me very well over the last 8 years.. They will probably be known from here on as Boylston Mercedes, due to corporate's dictate on using the town/city name.

    The independent mechanic I use is located in Marlboro, MA, where I live. He operates as Quality Auto Repair and Rick is a very good, honest, and reasonable guy. He is experienced and works on most all brand of cars.
  • exbenzexbenz Posts: 1
    Since 1990 I have owned or leased a procession of E class Mercedes. I started with a 300E followed by E320 (2), E430 and most recently a 2003 E500. These vehicles have been a joy to drive and, until this last one, of reasonable quality.

    As I read back through all the original postings to the beginnings of the 2003 series E class I can relate to most of the problems. Electronics are obviously very weak. Complete systems have been changed more than once. I won't bore everybody by listing all of the failures. They are well documented by others. I've also had the usual failure of suspension pump, voltage regulator on the alternator ( that renders the brakes inoperable) etc. etc.. The vehicle long ago reached the point where my wife didn't feel safe in driving it lest she be stranded.

    Next week I will be delighted to get rid of the car.Of course to give it back to the lease company it has to be tested by the state and, of course, with 78,000 miles on the clock the ball joints had failed. Another expensive repair!

    As I said in a letter to Dieter Zetsche, I will never again buy another Mercedes. Though I realize that every manufacturer has a bad year of quality now and again, the difference between companies worthy of my business and the rest is the manner in which they handle a bad situation. Since this vehicle came out of warranty I have been forced to pay repair costs that are disproportionately high in comparison with other luxury car manufacturers ( Lexus, or even BMW). That means both Daimler Chrysler and my local distributor have profited from their own poor quality. That is simply unethical.
  • Eventually, customers will decide which car is best for them... Thanks in part to internet where we all could share our car experience. If you go into Lexus website, you can tell how much they enjoy their cars, when you are in MB website, you hear a lot of quality problems. I am not surprised that in 5 yrs Toyota will take over GM as no.1 in US. I own both MB and Toyota/ Nissan products , so I think I am qualified to speak based on my own experience. I think people don't put up with poor quality anymore... Remember Yugo ??? ... that's why Toyota and Honda shares are increasing why GM and Ford shares are dropping. ten yrs ago when I traveled a lot to Germany, my German friend told me that People in Germany love Japanese cars, but the government/system makes [non-permissible content removed]. cars depreciated very fast, that's why it was not popular then (to me that's a cheap shot from Government).

    Don't get me wrong, MB is a nice car to drive, but I would rather drive a boring, high quality Lexus than to drive a MB with a question mark in my head as whether my MB would start in the morning. when the head gasket will leak, when the spring towers be rusted etc...

    This is a free world, please feel free to express your opinions.. In the end, informed customers will win in this battle
  • Ball joint or sway bar link bushings.
  • 10-11hrs labor @? per hour? $125? Job should take no more than 1 day if engine is cold when starting repair. Parts about $200. Don't machine the head.
  • The service manager is full of the well-known article. There are problems with the lifters/camshafts/piston slap/cam oiler tubes etc. On the other hand carbon build-up can cause a tapping/knocking-type noise. One remedy is to perform and engine induction service - running the engine on a special cleaning fluid instead of gasoline. This also has a feature to clean the intake system. It has helped before. It may have helped your engine.
  • 8yr/80K mi on catalytic converters - save that receipt for reimbursement if your car has less than that.
  • It seems to be a going rate for a head gasket problem... 2 local MB dealers around Wilmington DE want $2000-2200 for the job, so even though $1711 is expensive, but I KNOW that my car was serviced by a true MB master mechanic. He told me that the head engine is very flat so he did not have to planarize the head. I will bring my car back to him after 300 miles so that he can flush out engine oil and replace with Mobil 1.

    Anybody out there with repeated head gasket problems with E320? Please let us know your experiences. Thanks
  • Hello there, I have a 2005 E320. It has a very sporadic
    issue where at idle/car in gear, usually warmed a rough idle begins, engine seems to want to stall but as soon as you give it gas/accelerate problem goes away. It has been to
    local Mercedes dealer where it has checked out..wondering if there are any similar problems out there???? Thanks in advance..
  • The release button for the rear headrest is not working. The rear headrest will not go down. Nothing in the manual about a fuse on the circuit boards. Is there anyone who has had a similar problem? If so, how did you fix it? Appreciate any help
  • I own a 1995 E320 sedan with 150,000 miles which I have had since 95,000 miles. The car has been fantastic! Recently; all four power windows, power roof, and the windshield wipers just stopped working (all at the same time) without any warning signs. Does anyone know if there is a relay or something linked to all three? Any useful information would be greatly appreciated.
    Thanks, Justin
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,013
    Check your fuses first of all.

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  • I did that check the fuse chart and pulled every fuse out in both fuse boxes. With no luck thanks Ithought someone else may have had the same problem and fixed without going to the dealer $$$$
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,013
    Did you notice if one fuse controlled all these circuits or if the fuses that do control them are adjacent to each other?

    What I'm driving at is loose connections or corrosion at the fuse box or behind it.

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  • I check the fuse chart before taking out all of the fuses and moving like amp fuses around just in case of a bad fuse. There was not a fuse location for the rear seat headrest
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,013
    Well multiple failures of verious components all at the same time makes me think of a loose coupler in the wiring harness. I always suspect the area around the fuse box because that's where a lot of circuits come together and where the relay boxes are.

    But this is a case of Sherlock Holmes type work, step by step, circuit by circuit testing.

    Definitely you need the full factory wiring diagram and a magnifying glass to see where the logic of these failures might be. I've had great luck just staring at those diagrams and tracing the dead components back and back and back to various junctions and boxes. Suddenly, the 2 or 3 dead component circuits seem to converge in a certain area---AHA!

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  • I only have one problem that is the rear seat headrest release that allows the three headrest to lay flat that easy to look out the back window. Perhaps it is the switch it self. It have been way to easy if it was a assigned fuse. Thanks Ted
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,013
    Oh okay I was confusing yours with another problem posted---sorry. Well if you could pop that switch out you could bypass it easily enough and see if the headrest works. If there is no current even coming to the switch, then you start pulling up carpeting or whatever and trace it back with a needle probe.

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  • I did check all fuses and they seem to be good.
  • I think that is my only choice Thanks
  • I have a 2000 E320 with 141,000 miles. Recently any time the air is on, the EC (Economy) light is on and cannot be turned off. The air conditioning will not run in this mode. It will be getting hot soon and this must be fixed. Any ideas on what to do about this?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,013
    Hmmm....I wonder if you are low on refrigerant...the system will not allow the compressor to engage if the refrigerant level is too low...this would in turn, disengage the compressor and give you the EC light (I think). If your AC hasn't been serviced for a few years, this may be time for testing. I'd certainly check that out before digging into any electronic controls on the dashboard.

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  • mynextcarmynextcar Posts: 30
    Has anyone replace the light bulb on 2002 E320 headlight? (It's the light with smaller circle) One of them is out and I would like to know how I can replace myself. Thanks in advance!
  • greasykid1greasykid1 Posts: 336
    Should be in you inst. book. If not unscrew the large black cap behind the bulb and turn the lamp socket and remove.
  • microrepairmicrorepair Eastern MassachusettsPosts: 508
    I had almost exactly that problem last Feb. as I was heading south into the Carolinas and facing some pretty warm temperatures. I stopped at a MB dealer in Charlotte and the problem was in fact, low refrigerant. It was a Friday noontime and they were too busy to fix the leak but they did recharge it and it worked just fine for a few months until I had my mechanic back home check it out. Turns out it was one of the hoses and since it was under Starmark I took it back to my dealer and it cost me nothing. (except for the $140 in Charlotte..!!!!) :cry:
  • jodar96jodar96 Posts: 396
    There is nothing in the owners manual about how to replace the front fog light bulbs. My guess is that I have to drive the car on ramps, remove both underbody plastic panels, and reach the back of the fog light assembly.

    Is this correct or the inner fender plastic piece removal will give me access to the bulbs?

    Thanks,
    Joe
  • microrepairmicrorepair Eastern MassachusettsPosts: 508
    One of the front side marker bulbs has burned out on my 2001 E320. The manual says very simply to just reach inside the fender and press on the tab to release the lamp assy and pull it away from the car and change bulbs.. Right ! OK, so how do I press some tab that isn't there, or maybe I just can't find it.. Any hints on how this works??

    All I can see/feel is a triangular indented hole in the fender inner liner and one finger can make it through that hole and all I feel inside the hole is just some molded plastic ribs. Should there be a tab right inside the hole or sticking through the hole or what? :mad: :cry:
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