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Mercedes-Benz E-Class Maintenance and Repair

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  • Have a 97 E320. My wife is petite so she puts the seat really far up front. Every once in awhile I drive the car so I have to move the seat back. Not really a problem because we just store our settings in the memory seat. Awhile back I noticed that the seat wouldn't move back from my position. I'm only 5'-8". I last drove the car a week ago and then the wife has been driving it since. Well today I tried to adjust the seat back and it starts moving but then stops - like something is stopping the seat. All other seat movements work fine (up/down etc.) it's just that when the seat moves back it only goes so far and then stops - it goes forward without any problems. It doesn't even move back to the previously stored position any more. When I push the button to move the seat back I can hear the motor working but the seat doesn't want to go back any further.

    Anyone have any ideas as to the cause and fix. Hate to take it to the dealer who will charge me an arm and a leg just to identify the problem and then probably recommend replacing the entire seat!
  • A few things actually:

    1. Install a 1200CCA gel cell.
    2. Install a "battery buddy" ...insures no more battery problems (..google it ..to find ..piece of cake to install).

    The clicking ...wacked battery ..your electronics will suffer ...resets, etc.

    Sincerely
  • solosolo Posts: 48
    My 94 E320 has the most annoying buzzer that blares when the door is opened, the lights are on or the key is in the ignition. Has always driven me nuts. Has anyone tried to disconect this little monster? Has anyone opened the dashboard in back of the speedo? Seems like thats where it is located.. Any help would be appriciated.
  • jodar96jodar96 Posts: 396
    Update...Lats night I put a battery charger on it, it should weak battery. In less than two hours, showed the battery was charged, cranked and it started fine. This morning dead again, Put a new MB battery in it, Started fine.

    As message 830 said, I have resetting problems. The ABS/BAS lights are on and the radio says CODE. I think I need to take it back to the dealer to reset things. I hate this about the car. Why do I have to reset anything if I am replacing a dead battery. Can they add something to programming that recognizes a weak crank as a result of a weak/dead battery. I do not have all the owner manual stuff that shows the radio code. Leave it to Germans to complicate simple tasks. It is odd, I thought may be I loose the clock, trip odometer, and radio station settings. Clock and trip odometers kept their settings and ABS light is on!!

    Joe
  • jodar96jodar96 Posts: 396
    I got every thing reset after replacing the battery except the radio. I do not have the card for radio code. Can the dealer tell me what the code is by the VIN, or do they need to take the radio out, check the serial#, and then determine the code? Does anyone know?

    Thanks,
    Joe
  • I have a '94 SL500 5L and noticed about a year ago, when traveling across the Smoky Mountains, that my oil pressure dropped to 0 at the higher altitude (4,000 feetish) and the engine temperature was about at 180. If I dropped down to 2nd and kept the revs above about 3,000 the oil pressure would be OK. It didn't help when coasting down hill, but eventually the enginge temperature would drop some and the problem would go away. I noticed it again later, when not in the mountains, when I would use 2nd for a short period of time and then go back to 3rd or Drive. It happened again this past weekend going back over the mountains, and dropping to 2nd seemed to be the cure until I got back to somehwhat lower engine temps. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.
  • My 1994 SL500 gives a dull clunk sound which I would guess comes from the right rear wheel area. It is hard to tell while driving exactly where it comes from, so that is a guess. I will happen when I go ovre something not much bigger than a crack in the road, and sometimes it will happen for no apparent reason. I had the tires rotated recently and asked them to check my shocks, but they said all look fine. It has been going on for about two years, never in the Summer, and the Winters here in Tennessee are not that cold, and it doesn't have to be below freezing for the sound to appear. Thanks for any help.
  • Sounds like a defective oil pressure sending unit or gauge to me, because with actually 0 oil pressure your engine would have destroyed itself within a few minutes.

    This is not something you want to mess around with, though, and you should have the problem verified asap. If you lose the engine in that car, it is essentially totalled, as a rebuild will cost you $15,000.
  • Thanks, is this a common problem? Is there someway I can verify it myself without going to the dealer?
  • pfentonpfenton Posts: 16
    Engine temperatures reaching 180 degrees is not a good thing... Even under hard operating conditions, the engine temperature should not exceed 120-130 degrees. High engine compartment temperatures can easily ignite fuel canisters,
    alternators, wiring harness and such....resulting in
    under hood fires, serious damage and great, great expense.
    If my '93 500 SL engine temperature ever spiked that high,
    I would definitely have an expert check the engine cooling and exhaust systems.
  • WEll if you could find the sensor in the block, you could ground the wire that connects it to the engine block and have someone read the gauge...if the gauge goes all the way to maximum (oil pressure I mean)then the gauge is okay, it must be the sensor. You can usually just unscrew the sensor and put in a new one with a deep socket of the proper size. You can't really test a pressure sensor very easily.

    A more scientific method is to temporarily install an analog (direct pressure) gauge that is not electrical and see how it reads while you are driving. That would tell if if something is amiss in the engine.

    IMO, 180 degrees temperatures are fine, ( I assume we are talking FARENHEIT here) because your cooling system is operating under pressure, which means that the boiling point of the coolant is raised....I think one degree of boiling point for every 2 degrees of pressure in the radiator cap. Engines like to run hot for best thermal efficiency and modern cars are actually running 225 degrees at certain times...which is why many manufacturers don't put in "real" temp gauges anymore, but either give you a light or an "H" and "C" symbol. If you run too cold, your engine can sludge up....so you know, like Goldilocks....not too hot (above 225), not too cold (below 160), just right (180)....some folks running marine engines might be used to lower temperatures but those engines are run under quite different conditions than car engines.
  • I need help I have a e 500 2004 that I have leased for 39 months. I am 24 months into the lease and the car has developed a gas leak. This is the first problem that I have had with this car. It has 18,490 miles. I took the car to the dealer on sept. 6. They said they fixed the problem and would deliver the car back on fri. sept 8. They called and said they had a minor accident with the car on the way to deliver it back to me. I went to the dealership the following day to look at the damage. It was only cosmetic damage to the rear bumper. The car was painted and returned to me the following Mon. night. The car was returned to me dirty from the body shop. I went to run the car through the car wash and fuel it up. When i got home fuel poured out from the bottom of the car. They picked the car up again the following day. They kept the car for 2 weeks had to replace the back seat due to fuel contamination. I had a conversation with the managing owner of the dealership about the fact that I was not comfortable with ever driving the car again because of safety issues. He said he agreed and he would help me get out of the lease and into a new 2006 e5oo. When i was presented the deal it was no deal at all he just added expenses to what a normal lease would be on the car. after i declined the deal on the new lease they returned the car back to me they said it was fixed but when i fueled it up it leaked again they picked it up again the next day.It is now @30 days that i have been without the car and i have no relief in sight. I dont even have a loaner car. What should i do! I have consulted my lawyer but i dont think that is the way to go. HELP!
  • Forget the above post, MB steped up to the plate and released me from the E500 lease today. I am going to lease a 2007 ml 500. What a relief!!!!!!!
  • Why don't you think that's the way to go? You are getting screwed over!
  • You are foolish to accept another Mercedes. Mercedes put your life in DANGER!!! The Mercedes product is not what it used to be.
    Mercedes bought my car back under the lemon law, gave me a great deal on another new Mercedes (ML500). Had it for a year, so many nagging problems, couldn't wait to get rid of it.

    Try BMW or Lexus.
  • A reporter from a large daily newspaper is looking to speak to Mercedes-Benz owners in the Washington DC area about the expectations you have with the car when you purchase it and any problems you’ve had to deal with. Please provide your daytime contact info to ctalati@edmunds.com no later than Monday, October 16, 2006.

    Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • jodar96jodar96 Posts: 396
    My problem was the battery. I did not have the radio code to reactivate it. I called the dealer, gave them the VIN and they told me the code.

    If the battery is four years old, my suggestion is to replace it. Mine went 5.5 years. It was a stretch and I was planning on replacing it before Winter. It went out before I had a chance to do it.

    Joe
  • I had my second rear window failure in 2 months on my 2000 E320. The dealer was absolutely no help in offering to support the fix. Not to mention they could not have been more arrogant. I paid over $450 for the first failure to be repaired and don't look forward to spending that amount again for a second MB engineering design flaw. I then called the "Customer Support" area and they said it was totally the dealers call. To make matters worse I purchased a new E350 from the same dealership just before the failure - it didn't mean a thing to them. Does anybody have any recommendations and/or has anyone received any monetary support for this all too frequent problem?
  • Jodar96

    1. When a battery is dead, it's dead and won't give you any warning. That's why I always change my car's battery before its time

    2. Call any MB dealer, give them your VIN # and they will give you the code. They will check a few things with you to make sure that you are the real car owner. It happened to me.

    Good luck
  • mezecamezeca Posts: 66
    That couldn't be further from the truth. Even older vehicles had thermostats between 160 and 180 degrees.
    Todays vehicles have thermostats around 195+ degrees for
    emissions purposes.
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