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Mercedes-Benz E-Class Maintenance and Repair



  • fatcat71fatcat71 Posts: 75
    Am thinking about buying a new 11 E 350 4matic or 2010 pre owned. Anyone know what the annual service costs? I'm trying to see if it pays to buy the annual service up front. Can get 3 yrs max on the preowned at 1k or 5yr on the new for 2k.
    One dealer I was haggling with on a preowned stated that she "thought" the service price was around 250 a year, but my wifes mazda costs more than that so I highly doubt it!!
  • kevinc5kevinc5 Posts: 204
    Don't trust that dealer. She could have gotten you the exact costs for scheduled maintenance in the time it took to call her service manager. If that was too much trouble for her, find someonme else.
  • fatcat71fatcat71 Posts: 75
    I just looked under maintanence on edmonds and for the E class it lists "A" service and "B" service, Edmonds says A service is about $250 and B service is about $350, but I have a hard time believing that. Why would a 5 year service plan cost 2K and the MB website advertise a "30% savings" if the costs for 5 years would only be $1500???
    Anyone own a E350 and get the annual service from MB?? How much does it cost and where do you Live??
  • kevinc5kevinc5 Posts: 204
    Try calling a dealer's service department...not the sales guys.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 10,822
    If you own a BMW 5 Series or Mercedes E-Class but thinking about an Audi A6 for your next car, email with your daytime contact information no later than Friday, August 12, 2011 to be interviewed by a reporter on the subject.

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  • ghstudioghstudio Posts: 930
    edited September 2011
    2011 E350's built after approx July 1 have comand 4.5 and the new, more colorful dashboard as do all 2012 e350s. Unfortunately, the manuals that are shipped with the cars is still the comand 4.0 command and voice manuals.

    The 2012's have started to arrive at dealers and even though the manuals included with those cars say Edition A 2012, the are still the comand 4.0 manuals. At present, there appears to be no comand 4.5 manual for the e series. Both my dealer and I are frustrated, but there's not much we can do. I notified Mercedes USA HQ of the problem.... No idea what, if anything they will do...but it's in their hands.

    There are some new commands in 4.5 which could be a manual would be welcome.
  • The services are actually A, B,C,D,E, etc. as the car ages. However, the A and C are the same. My dealer charges about $200 for the A or C and I think about $350 for the B.
    Best way is to call the service dept. and ask how much for the 12, 24, 36, 48, 60 month services. Car is programed to be serviced at either every 10K miles or 12 months whichever comes first.
    Don't forget the routine services do not consider the wear and tear items such as brakes.
  • eman5eman5 Posts: 110
    I have a wonderful 2006 E320 CDI. Had to park it outside yesterday, on a very slight driveway incline, during some prolonged rain. When I opened the trunk today the back of the trunk lid and trunk liner was dripping wet. I can't see where the water's getting in. Anyone have any ideas/fixes?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,404
    In such a case, one is always suspicious of the tail light assembly gaskets. If you have the type with little wheels that tighten and loosen the access panel to the bulbs, you might snug those up.

    You can test these gaskets by drying everything, then spreading newspaper down under the tail lights, and having at them with a garden hose (with the trunk lid closed of course ) :P If the newspaper gets wet, there you go. Be sure you don't squirt the trunk lid, since you could also have a bad trunk lid gasket. That would be the second area to test if the tail light lenses don't seem to leak.

    If it IS the tail light lenses, and tightening up back there doesn't help, you can buy some LATEX sealant (not that gooey silicon stuff which is very messy) and just apply it with a wet finger, and rub off the excess with a sponge.


  • Obviously there's a water seal break somewhere in the body. Check the seals in the roof slots for mounting ski (and other) equipment. Check the sponge/rubber seal around the trunk deck lid.
  • I had the same problem. It was very annoying. The dealer initially replaced some felt behind the aluminium grill around the A/C vent. It worked for about a week. I took it back in and they had to replace the A/C vent grill and the wood panel that goes in front of the passenger dash. That fixed the problem. Good luck!
  • The engine started after a minute or two turning the key periodically yesterday. Today, the key won't even turn, but the headlights and the remote works so it's probably not a battery problem. Any idea? Thank you!
  • I have a 2001 E430 and remember having a similar problem a few years ago. If I remember correctly it was a faulty electronic ignition switch. I also had another problem with the car cranking but failing to start and it ran rough. A bad crankshaft position sensor was the problem. A failed crankshaft position sensor may not properly record the rate of crankshaft rotation, information the engine control unit needs to control fuel injection and ignition. Inspect the crankshaft position sensor for damage or loose connections and make the necessary adjustments or replacements. Good Luck!
  • May I ask how much you have spent for the repair? Thank you so much.
  • The electronic ignition switch costs about $600.00 and requires two or three
    hours of labor. The crankshaft position sensor costs about $150.00 and also
    requires about three labor hours. I would replace both at the same time as to incur only three total labor hours for both repairs.
  • twiniitwinii Posts: 3
    I took my car to the dealer because the car would not start sometimes it started and other times it would not.

    I went to a privately owned auto shop and was told that it is the ignition switch. I wasn't sure if I should believe the person or not so I took it to the dealer.

    On Tuesday, 5/22 I left it at the dealer. On Wednesday, 5/23 I was told that it was the computer engine and it would cost $1800 to fix. I said are you sure it is not the ignition switch he said, no its the computer engine. I then called the mechanic I previosuly saw and he said, he knows for a fact it is not the computer engine, its the ignition switch. I told the dealership to do the work.

    On Thursday, 5/24 I received a call from the dealership that the computer engine did not start the car something else is wrong with the car still. So I was told to keep the rental for the holiday weekend. On Tuesday, 5/29, I received a phone call from the dealership, the service tech tells me that they replaced the ignition switch and the car started but get this they are not going to charge me for the ignition switch. The ignition switch alone cost $500-600, the computer engine is $1400-$1500.

    I am so upset I can't stop crying. What are your thoughts? How would you handle something like this? Is it fair for me to tell them that I am not paying for the computer engine? I am a young female and I took the car in myself, they probably think I am a spoiled brat and my parents are going to pay for the car. But that is not the case... Why wouldn't they charge me for both parts? Please I really need some help with this.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,404
    Talk to the dealer's service manager or the company president. Tell them that you will pay this bill UNDER PROTEST and take them to Small Claims Court if they will not adjust for their incorrect diagnosis (note: never make a threat you do not fully intend to keep).

    If you don't pay the bill, they may lien your car, which is making a situation even uglier.

    This is only my advice and I am not a legal expert. Before doing as I suggest, you may want to consult with the Consumer Fraud division of your local DA's office (city or county as the case may be). They may give you further advice I haven't thought of.

    I think if you took the case to Small Claims AND if you have documentation for what you are saying here (or at least write it all down, with dates, times) and possibly a statement from your local garage, I think you'll win.


  • twiniitwinii Posts: 3
    Thank you for your reponse.
  • ghstudioghstudio Posts: 930
    You should not have to pay for the first should pay for the ignition switch. If they did a bad diagnosis, that's their problem. When you go forward to anyone on this issue, it is immaterial that you saw another mechanic who said something different. Your issue is with had a problem, you took them the car, they diagnosed it incorrectly and then found the correct problem. They are responsible for whatever they did that didn't fix the are responsible for the ignition switch. Be not mention the other mechanic because it's irrelevant, and write them a check for the ignition switch. Let them go after you for the rest....and you can tell them that if they do come after you for the rest, you will consult a lawyer. Clearly, the dealer is not trained correctly in diagnosing problems.

    What would have happened if they said "it's the engine...we have to replace the engine"....would you have been responsible for the new engine. No!!!

    Good firm, be clear on what you will pay for and if they won't release the car to you consult a lawyer (who will charge them for his time when he wins the case).
  • kevinc5kevinc5 Posts: 204
    You are getting the run around. What is the name of the dealer?
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