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2008 Toyota Highlander

1828385878897

Comments

  • nimrod99nimrod99 Posts: 343
    "Well, they weren't until NipponDenso went on an acquisition binge and now dominate the US market for automatic climate control designs. Prior to Denso US coming "about", automatic climate control systems in US made cars were just as sensibly designed, WELL designed, as their european counterparts"

    In the 1990's I looked at the Ford Explorer (also other US vehicles such as GM etc).
    I will say the climate control in US vehicles is RETARDED.
    I drove several Ford's in the UK. It had a separate AC switch and recirc switch.
    Ford US, did not have that. The climate control "knob" had the following settings "Max AC" (which I presume included recirc). AC (no recirc), Panel, Floor, and Floor/defrost.
    Ford Focus and Ford Escort were originally designed in Europe and when they came across the pond, they get dumbed down, and all styling features removed

    So there was no ability for the user to select AC or recirc independently.

    My Toyota Supra (1987 model) had auto climate control with user selectable AC and recirc.

    And as for your political reference in your last post, you need to get over it.
  • toyseekertoyseeker Posts: 81
    Does the caller ID on your mobile phone match the number on the display of the HL?

    If the person is calling from an 'extension', chances are the caller ID (on the mobile phone) will not handle the 'extension' properly.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    "I will say the climate control in US vehicles is RETARDED."

    Basically I cannot disagree, except for the need to point out that our current US designs are RETARDED as a result of being overwhelmed by the horribly FLAWED automatic climate control designed inported from Japan by NipponDenso/Denso US.

    First, you seem to be referring, in the RETARDED context, to the US product back in the last century, the 1990's. And yes, other than the upscale luxury brands US passenger vehicles did not have anything close to an automatic climate control system.

    But competition for sales and mass production of the high technology componentry required to implement the "less than 5 years" models with automatic climate controls has worked its magic and now even the least expensive of US cars have automatic climate control, or at least available as an option.

    But you may take note that the designers of these NEW systems are just now beginning to realize that allowing independent control of A/C and recirc/fresh mode was ONE SERIOUS mistake. You can manually put your system in recirc if you wish, but without the A/C in operation it will switch back into "fresh" mode within minutes. While it isn't really reasonable to do this in warmer climates that remains, seemingly, something that the Denso design engineers have yet to learn.

    RETARDED...

    My new 1992 LS400's automatic climate control system's base NipponDenso design was so flawed it was not SAFE to drive the car in certain common wintertime conditions/climates. After the first few inadvertent, unpredictable, and thereby unavoidable HAZARDOUS driving instances I parked the car for the "duration". Absent doing the required modifications myself, having the ability to do the modifications that car would likely still be a garage queen.

    Now here we are in 2008 and almost every one of the modifications I came up with by 1994 for my LS400 have now been incorporated, either embedded or as a c-best option, in the newer NipponDenso/Denso US automatic climate control designs.

    But still, certain aspects of the automatic climate control in my 2001 Porsche 911, and therefore likely ALL (Bosch) european designs, still make the NipponDenso/Denso US designs seem RETARDED in comparison.
  • su922su922 Posts: 9
    Good point - there are plenty in our neighborhood, but we keep the car garaged all the time so that's not it.

    Perhaps we should get in the habit of turning off the a/c before turning off the car. It's worth a try to see if it makes a difference.
  • canuck17canuck17 Posts: 28
    Further to my original post and this post I just a call from the service manager at the Toyota Dealership where I purchased my 2008 HL Ltd. and he told me that he called a number of dealerships across Canada. Two other dealerships had the same problem of the alarm going off for no apparent reason and it was traced to the electronic hood sensor. Once replaced it solved the problem. The dealership is replacing the sensor on my vehicle tomorrow and I will see if it solves the problem.

    ET
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    For info on turning off the A/C before turning off the ignition read the material at airsept.com about their EED, Electronic Evaporator Dryer. It takes up to an hour for the temperature on the surface of the evaporator to rise from <34F to the point that condensate previously "gathered" will begin to evaporate.

    And the odor you get from the resulting formation of mould and mildew spores is more like "dirty gym socks" than the odor you describe.

    And you might be surprised at just how creative an un-neutered tom cat can be at getting into a supposedly closed garage, especially if you happen to own a female cat, even a neutered one..

    From personal experience I have learned to NEVER leave the garage door open during the day or times when I'm working outside and going back and forth for tools, etc. We have a female cat, neutered, and our neighbor has a neutered male cat who apparently isn't aware that she, and he, have both been fixed. I have discovered him in our garage the next morning after apparently inadvertently trapping him in the garage the previous day/evening.

    Have to find some birdshot for my 22.
  • cdalseidecdalseide Posts: 1
    Off topic, but I am trying to decide between the Pilot and 2008 Highlander. From what I read the average Pilot MPG is in the 17-19 range. How is the real life MPG on the Highlander?
  • texasestexases Posts: 5,647
    From what I've read, they're very similar in mileage (similar weight and power, engine technology). Biggest difference seems to be the ride: Highlander quieter, more isolated, smoother, Pilot more road feel, but more road noise. You'll need to drive both, some strongly prefer one over the other.
  • ronnronn Posts: 398
    My mpg has been very good on the Highlander. I average 17-19 in town. Going on a trip in July...anxious to see the highway miles.
    I am very happy with the Highlander, and I think you would enjoy it more than the Pilot. IMO, the Highlander is alot better looking, and it has a much more smooth and quiet ride. I have the Blizzard Pearl exterior paint, and it is very good looking all shined up.
    Some friends I have own both, and they much prefer the Highlander over the Pilot for the better ride. Their gas is about the same. He is tall, and the Highlander is also a better fit. He often complains about the road noise with the Pilot, but the wife gets the Highlander most of the time! They have kids, and he is a Doctor, so they have to have two SUV's for winter driving. They take the Highlander on trips, and they have gotten around 28 on the highway at times.
    They are both very high rated SUV's, so a matter of choice is up to you.
    Good luck with your decision!
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,296
    If you are an owner of an 08, please visit the Toyota Highlander Real World MPG discussion and add your experiences to the numbers. Thanks!

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • miacar07miacar07 Posts: 28
    yes, that's the problem i have sometimes, that the number on my mobile doesn't match the number on the display. For example, my wife called me the other day from her cell phone and the number on the display was a totally different number.

    It seems that the number that appears on the display is from the previous call i made or a previous call that came in. do you know if anyone has experienced this before and what can be done to correct it?
  • thardgravethardgrave Posts: 57
    I would agree with the other comments......the major plus for the Pilot would likely be its better 3rd row seat....if that is important to you....it wasn't for me, as we will only use that once in a while, and the rest of the car is almost perfect for many of us....I would sure drive both, as your own impressions are what is important......but I have no regrets at all with mine, and would buy it again in a heartbeat.
  • tarugstarugs Posts: 16
    I have a 2008 2wd limited, and I also have the wind noise/whistle on the driver side window. I hear it when driving around 40 - 50 mph. Any updates on similar experience?
  • ronnronn Posts: 398
    My whistle was on the passenger side, and came from the passenger side mirror.
  • david140david140 Posts: 3
    Does anyone know if a child seat go in the middle of the 2nd row? It doesn't seem like it would be a great fit. If not, would deleting the 3rd row also make the 2nd row a more traditional bench seat?
  • hodog16hodog16 Posts: 53
    Had some free time so test drove the Highlander again, this time it was a Limited with power rear door, moonroof, and JBL. The car was blizzard pearl which is a nice color, but I don't want white, especially not if it costs $220 extra.

    Missed the nav from my first test drive, but the smart key and push button start are pretty cool. I agree the wood trim is an eye sore.

    Drove really well. With superficial discussion on price, they were offering 2% over invoice. If I really get serious I'd hope to get a better deal than that if possible.

    I think I've got it down to the Highlander or the 2008 Pilot. It's a question of whether it's worth $6,000 or so to get a new design or one that's 6 years old with comparable options between the two (moonroof, nav, etc). I liked both, hopefully the wife will decide for me after she drives both ;) .
  • jgantjgant Posts: 10
    I just bought a 2008 Highlander, Limited. Great vehicle, we love it. However, I'm a bit Techno challenged in trying to get my Bluetooth operational. In following the manuals, I have successfully entered about 25 phone numbers to my phone book. However, when try to use my voice commands, it won't work and it's telling me that the entries need to be "Voice Tagged". Anyone know the easy way to do that? Additionally, until I get them Voice Tagged can the phone book be used to make calls while on the move? If not, can calls be made while on the move (currently without the voice taggs)? Thanks for any assistance.
  • gdh3gdh3 Posts: 28
    Attention Blizzard Pearl Owners and fans. I have a white jeep that has tiny specks of rust showing up everywhere. If left alone the specks increase in size over time. A clay bar removes these with a lot of elbow grease. I was told that all cars get "rail rust" and it just so happens that white and silver cars show it the most.

    Have any Blizzard Pearl owners experienced this rust???????????
    Does anybody have any added insight into this?????????/

    Obviously I am considering blizzard pearl but have real concerns regarding the color choice as I keep my vehicles a long time.

    Thank you in advance for your helpful responses.
  • jpagsjpags Posts: 1
    I'm wondering the same exact thing! The manual shows the front and rear floor jack positions, but there is no mention of jack stand placement. Anyone out there with a 2008 Highlander Shop Manual that can shed some light on this?

    Thanks!
  • texasestexases Posts: 5,647
    Having seen many white cars, I've never heard of 'rail rust' as a constant problem on any car, regardless of color. You're saying the hood, for example, will develop these 'tiny specks of rust'? To me, an obvious flaw in paint application. 'All cars' definitely do not get this!
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,296
    The more common term is "rail dust" and it's pretty common when you move cars by rail.

    Sherwin-Williams

    I've never messed with the acid remover stuff, but I do like using a clay bar now and then.

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • texasestexases Posts: 5,647
    Yike, what a pain. Guess that's what all that white plastic film is for. How does the dust get imbedded? Is the finish not fully cured? Given that the Highlanders come from Japan, might that allow more cure time, so this wouldn't be as much a problem?
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,296
    Lots of posts about it over the years - here's a good one in a whole discussion:

    xfiles, "Rail Dust" #5, 11 Jun 2001 7:57 pm

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • webgoodwebgood Posts: 95
    I'm not an expert; here's just my experience with white vehicles over the years. FYI, I live in the midwest...nasty cold winters, snow and lots of road salt.
    I've had a white '85 Chevy, 1991 Toyota PU and 2001 Celica. ALL had the same problem: particularly in the spring when I'd do a real thorough cleaning and waxing, I'd find all of these tiny brownish 'rust' specks, mostly on the lower half of the body, particularly behind the wheel wells, and on the back bumper and vertical areas. You could even feel them as a gritty deposit rubbing your hand over them. After polishing them all out by hand with Dupont #7 polishing compound and 2 good wax coats, they'd stay pretty good until...the next spring and the same crap was back. I found if I washed the car more often during the winter to get the salt off, that would lessen it somewhat.
    All the paint/body people I talked to said the spots were essentially like "acid rain" deposits and NOT an inherent fault of the finish or paint; they just showed-up more on white finishes, but they're on every finish.
    I now use Mequiar's ScratchX and a soft flat cotton rag (like a diaper) to take 'em out of my HL. Still a fair amount of work, but the results is nice.
    Regards, BGood
  • texasestexases Posts: 5,647
    "mostly on the lower half of the body, particularly behind the wheel wells, and on the back bumper and vertical areas."

    I think that may be something different. I had the same thing, lived in Anchorage 12 yrs, every spring. Have you tried Turtle Wax Bug&Tar remover? That took care of it for me, no polishing required.
  • webgoodwebgood Posts: 95
    I'll give that a whirl, texases. Thanks for the info! Regards, BGood
  • thardgravethardgrave Posts: 57
    The short answer is you can't access the phone book if the car if moving....you can only use the voice commands, and you will need the voice tags set up for each name.......otherwise, how will it know who you are calling?? It needs to recognize how you say and pronounce each name, so you need to say it for each name, exactly as you want to remember it...remembering that for some names, you might have both a home and cell phone number. Once it is set up properly, it works pretty seamlessly, at least for me....I use mine all the time. There are instructions for inputting the names in the manual.
  • gymnbatgymnbat Posts: 9
    There are speed dial locations in the phone book. These are accessible while driving.
    There are three pages of available speed dial entries but you need to enter the numbers in the speed dial locations. I think a total of around 18 numbers can be entered. When you access the phone while driving by using the phone key on the steering wheel the speed dial page opens. Hope this is some help. I too wish that I could access my voice dialing feature of my phone via the bluetooth of the vehicle. Does anyone know if there are any phones that pass through the voice activated features of the phone to the car? When I try to use the phones voice activated dialing while the bluetooth is connected to the vehicle I get nothing. I also wish that the ringtone of the phone would be passed through to the car. I have different ring tones for different people and my phone even announces who is calling by name if it is someone in my phone book in the phone. I wish these would be broadcast through the bluetooth. I too have noticed that the caller id on the nav screen is not always accurate or sometimes does not show up at all. I still love my limited but these are a few little things that I wish could be made perfect!
  • toyseekertoyseeker Posts: 81
    Trying to keep this alive... still looking for a good solution.

    I rotated my tires on Sat. by:
    0. Chocked both of the tires on the other side of the HL (in front of the front and behind the rear).
    1. Jack the rear using the 'screw jack' point just in front of the rear tire (I used the same 'custom block' that I made years ago between my 3 ton hydraulic jack and the frame as I use on my other Toyota's)
    2. Placed a small (2 ton) jack stand just inside of the 'lip' of the jack point and between the jack and the tire and lowered the HL onto it. I could not use my 6 ton stands as they will not fit under it (even though the tire was a full 2" off the ground!)
    3. Remove tire, jack front (just behind front tire).
    4. Quickly swap front tire (don't like working off just a jack !!). Suppose I could (er, should have) have done same thing as "step 2." with a 2nd stand...
    5. Lower front, mount rear tire, remove rear jack stand.
    6. Torque to spec
    7. Repeat on other side.

    I did notice there is a oval cutout just behind the jack point. My 6 ton stands would accept that perfectly - if the stands weren't too tall and the jack wasn't in the way !!

    Would really appreciate someone checking the shop manual - this seems to be too 'hokey pokey' to do on a regular basis.

    PS: Did not rotate spare through.. never have. In 40k mi the spare won't match the rest of the sneakers... but since its a spare - who cares, no ?
  • donnieodonnieo Posts: 12
    Did you ever have any luck getting info on removing the 3rd row seat?

    I wonder if it's possible to take the cushions off in order to use the space they take up.

    I need the hidden storage that the 3rd row delete offers but just found out that the 3rd row delete is not available with the AWD, but only the FWD. :mad:
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