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Volkswagen Jetta 2006+



  • I appreciate that I can read through the various posts, and have done so, but was wondering if anyone out there had an 06 2.5 manual and what their experience was with it? My company has one for sale and I am seriously considering buying it but there seems to be a lot of contradictory info out there regarding reliability. Also, how often does the timing belt have to be changed?

    Any advice would be greatly appreciated, thank you.
  • micwebmicweb Posts: 1,617
    I owned two different Golfs in the early and mid-part of this decade, and learned a couple of things from my ownership:

    VW's are great fun to drive and have a - hate to use this word but its the most accurate - cachet that Corollas, Hondas, Scions can't match.

    VW does almost everything "it's own way" and it's NOT a good idea to use an oil shop or independent garage - except maybe one specializing in VW's - for services.

    VW dealers can charge quite different prices for the same service, so it pays to shop around.

    For example, the oil used in VW is not only supposed to be full synthetic, it is an unusual grade - 5W-40 - and has to satisfy a specific VW specification as well. The VW drain plug is supposed to be completely replaced at every oil change, not just the washer, to prevent oil pan damage. VW coolant is different. And it goes on.

    Fortunately the fluids and parts and services are competitively priced (my dealer oil changes were only about $50) and service was good - I had no desire to use a Jiffy Lube, for example, and if you use their fluids, you can go the recommended oil change intervals (an initial short 5,000 mile interval, followed by 10,000 mile changes). My 40k "major tuneup" at which plugs were replaced only cost me $300, same as or less than the 30k mile "service packages" the Toyota and Honda dealers tried to push on me WITHOUT a spark plug change. And changing the brake fluid is a good idea than more manufacturer's should embrace - brake fluid is hygroscopic - naturally draws water vapor out of the air - and moisture is brake fluid's worst enemy. True, the resulting problem might only arise coming down a mountain where the brakes are constantly used, but VW seems to care more about performance than other makers, so I applaud them for their caution.

    You will probably occasionally hear a story of VW "repair hell", which is, imho, mainly a result of VW's market share - they are a "thinly" sold line, and there aren't all those expert mechanics like they have in Europe to quickly solve problems. You can avoid repair hell by selecting a good dealer with a good service department that has low service staff turn-over and a good reputation. Once again, VW is not a brand to be blase with about choice of after-market service, and not a brand to take to Jiffy Lube or the gas station mechanic - it's a specialized product, and if you shop as carefully for service and maintenance, and do what the owner's manual asks (which isn't that much), you'll almost never have a problem, and minor problems will be quickly fixed.
  • micwebmicweb Posts: 1,617
    I should add that I had to purchase an extra bottle of oil after my oil changes and add half a quart or so every 3,000 miles. Since as a matter of caution I had the dealer change my oil at 5,000 miles instead of 10,000 miles, one quart was enough. VW's design philosophy is that a little oil use is good, it means more is coating the cylinder walls and valve guides, an engine that doesn't use oil probably has rings and seals that don't let enough oil into the places that don't usually get enough lubrication, if you drive hard. Keep in mind VW assumes hard drivers, other makers assume tame automatic drivers.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    how often does the timing belt have to be changed?

    Never, the 2.5 engine has a timing chain not a belt.
  • im getting ready to turn in my 2006 lease. i have not had any problems w/the jetta, the maintenance cost has not been too expensive. The oil changes should be done by either the dealer or someone who speicalizeds in VW.
  • ...I really appreciate it.

    I've had the vehicle inspected and it has oil leaks from somewhere in the engine. Without going further and shampooing the engine to locate etc. it could be a number of things but according to the mechanic "all under $1K". They had to put a further 2 litres of oil back in it.

    I think I may just pass and keep looking. Fun little car to drive though.
  • kjcarwkjcarw Posts: 1
    Here's my experience.

    March of 09, I will have had my 2.5 L Jetta for two years, bought it, not leased.

    Oil change and tire rotation costs about 80 bucks, at the VW Dealership in Huntsville, AL that I use. But, they wash it for you every time they service it.

    I'm not a "harsh" driver, but the Jetta is my main source of transportation. I've had to have roadside come to my house and pick up the car on a flat bed twice (which is free of charge for the first four years, so that's nice, since I live like 30 miles from the dealer). First time, Jetta had 12k miles on it, and the battery flat died. Which I know is not a VW problem but still. That was under warranty, so they came got it, replaced it and I went and got it the next day.

    Second time was about two weeks ago. In November, I had the 20k service package done (around 300 dollars, they reccomend these packages where they do everything from re-lube the sunroof to oil change, run tests on the computer, tire rotation, take off and clean several wheel components, and flush all the liquids, they reccomend this at 20, 40, and 60k miles) In the past few weeks, I had noticed a small rattling noise whenever I hit a bad bump in the road. (we all try to avoid these but sometimes you can't due to on coming traffic) Well week before last, I hit a bad bump, and all the way home it seriously sounded like one of my front tires was going to fall off. I wasn't too far from home, so I drove like 10mph the rest of the way, screching and all. They came picked it up, and the next day said I needed new "Strut Bushings" and they would order them and they will be under warranty. They drove it and said they didn't hear anything. Also mentioned I may need new tires, which bewilder's me since these are supposed to be 40k tires and I have 24k on them now and they're saying that. I typically don't keep a new car past 75k miles. I may trade the Jetta in before then if this keeps up.
    The tires that come standard on Jetta are Contenintals. I will prob get michelens this next time.

    Whatever you do, if you are "buying" the car, negotiate the extra warranty to 100k. It will be worth it from what I'm seeing right now.

    I do love the car though, and get compliments on it all the time.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    My 40k "major tuneup" at which plugs were replaced only cost me $300.

    Did that include a brake fluid change? Did it include replacing the cabin/pollen filter? (I assume that it included air filter, oil change and tire rotation in addition to plugs)

    My dealer's 40K package is much higher, they include some extras that VW does not require. I have not yet gotten their "ala-carte" prices to just to the required stuff. My own, I think generous, educated guess is the required 40K should be maybe $350-400 (including brake fluid change and cabin filter).
  • micwebmicweb Posts: 1,617
    My bad. I pulled the actual old receipt. The total with air filter, pollen filter, new plugs, brake fluid flush, was $430.87. Back in April of 2003. Considerably more than I remembered.
  • I bought a new 06 VW diesel Jetta in 07. It has only 3500 miles on it currently. The battery died, wouldn't accept a jump, car had to be towed to dealer. Battery was recharged and declared a good battery. No reason could be given to me as to why the battery died. The car is kept in a heated garage.
    Has anyone had battery problems such as this with VW Jetta?
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    Hey thanks for checking :shades:

    But 2003 :confuse: ...I thought we were talking about 2006+ (which, I continue to point out to edmunds, really should be 2005.5+ :mad: ) Jettas here.

    So that was probably right around $400, before taxes and fees were added on. My dealer used to have the package (with their extras) at $500, but always had a $50 coupon. They bumped up to $550, so $500 with the readily available coupon. (I happen to have a better coupon for 20% off).

    In addition, to what you listed and a tire rotation, they include rebalance wheels, fuel filter, and cleaning fuel injectors in the package.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    I got the "ala-carte" pricing from my dealer and it would be about $380 (plus tax and fees) for all the maintenance items in the VW 40K mi/48 month list, except for scanning the on board computer. Checking the computer would add $99. All the other "check" items are no charge.

    I'm thinking since the end of the full warranty period is near, I'll have them do the scan, just in case that would identify a warranty repair that is needed. With that added in, I am thinking I may as well take their package deal since it will only be another $70 (actually $56 with my 20% off).
  • I have this constant dilemma, its not buyers remorse, I have been in my Audi A3 for 9 months, so its too late for that. I MISS my VW's! And I feel that I am paying for the name in the high lease rate ie. $405.00/mo

    Dealer next to my house has a CPO 2006 Grey GLI..awesome! Everything I wanted, some things in the GLI that SHOULD have been in the A3. Alas, my dilemma is do I suck it up and keep the A3 for another two years when the lease is up, or do I spring for the $15,800 GLI that has 37,000 miles on it, and roll in the negative equity? Do you think my new payment could be lower than what I am currently paying?

    Any suggestions would be great.

  • ivan_99ivan_99 Posts: 1,653
    I would think *stay* with the A3 since you don't want to end up "paying" to leave your current automobile. you know, your value at the end of your lease is a big zero (assuming you don't have to dish out money for tires,dents, etc).

    But...if you get a 20k loan (playing pretend) for 5 years at 6% that equals $387 (less than your lease)...AND you'd have some equity left after paying it off.

    I think most dealers will not carry a large negative equity so it all depends on what you owe to get out of your current vehicle.

    You purchased (leased) the A3 knowing that there are other CPO'd vehicles out I'd make sure that I really want to go through the process; plus you'd want to make sure you'd keep the would be difficult to swap out again with a negative equity (need the GAP Ins too).
  • sandman46sandman46 Posts: 1,798
    Though tempting to swap out for the Jetta, it's just not worth the negative equity on a loan for 3 year old car...especially now unless $ is not an issue. Keep what you've got and in two more years, then look for a certified Jetta. Ask you "need" the Jetta...or do you just "want" it? Having a similar issue on a '07 Volvo S40. A co-worker is turning in her black S40 in about 6 months and I really want that car. But my '06 Civic has low mileage, under 20k still, and was bought for cash. Do I really want to take a car which will have about 40k miles on it or do I keep my cheap to keep flawless Civic? I "want" it...but I don't "need" it. I do feel your pain's a really cool looking black S40!

    The Sandman :confuse:
  • Thanks so much for advice. I will let you know, heading to carmax to get an idea what they would pay for it just as a starting point. Will keep posted on what happens. Again i appreciate the reality check:)
  • micwebmicweb Posts: 1,617
    Surely you jest in the current economy? Don't rock your FICO score boat. Did you get the A3 new or used? If new, keep it for sure, you now JUST how it has been maintained and driven. Beside, generally Audis are more prestigious than VW's.
  • furleyfurley Posts: 13
  • furleyfurley Posts: 13
    I hand a Lincoln before this VW; the Lincoln was cheaper to maintain/service!! Go figure. :mad:
  • homerkchomerkc Posts: 113
    I just hit the 40K service interval on my 2007 Jetta; the dealer proposed $435 for the entire service EXCEPT brake fluid change. That's basically $435 for new plugs, air filter, cabin filter, and a look-over. SO, I had them change the oil and I changed the plugs and filters. Parts totaled $85 w/tax, and the work was done in less than an hour (including the web search for photos as to where the connection points are found in removing engine cover.) That's for Iridium plugs and filters that come from the same Mexican factory as those VW branded (Mann uses different colored paper and rubber - they are easy to recognize.) I recommend that anyone can do it yourself.
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