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Chrysler Sebring Convertible

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Comments

  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Well, sometimes search engines dump people onto older pages, so if bigeee did not notice, it's completely understandable.

    Welcome to CarSpace, bigeee - glad to have you aboard! :)
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  • My battery will only hold a charge sometimes. Every few days My car will not start, the battery is dead, even jumping it is hard. I put a new battery in twice and soon after the same thing happens again. I jumped it one day and then drove it about 10 miles and it would not start again, the next day I jumped it and drove it about 15-20 miles and later that day it started just fine. The only thing that happens that may be unique is that when the battery is almost dead, not enough to turn it over, the ignition light (where I put the key) will filcker and quietly buzz? I have no access to a garage and I love my car, does anyone have any idea what is going on? I am ready to pull my hair out, please help if anyone can.
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  • tedebeartedebear Posts: 832
    You said your battery is failing to hold a charge - even two new batteries are doing this. Are you sure the charging system is okay? Places like AutoZone will check it for free if you don't have access to the proper testing equipment.

    Here's a link to checking the charging system. There are a few things you might look at that the person at AutoZone won't inspect. Some things, such as corrosion, loose connections and proper tension on the alternator belt don't require any meters or special tools.

    http://autorepair.about.com/od/electricaltroubleshooting/a/battery_check.htm
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  • Hi, I have a 2006 Sebring convertible (Touring) and the theft alarm has been going off randomly. I have tried to de-activate by using the key rather than the remote to no avail. Has anyone experienced this? Thanks!
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  • I have a 1997 Sebring JXi convertible. At times,usually shortly after starting the car, the digital display for the odometer and automatic transmission and the tachometer quit working. After 10 or 15 minutes they come back on and stay on most the time. Only once when I was driving several hours did it go off more than once. Does anyone have any idea what could be wrong? I asked a Chrysler service department and they didn't sound too encouraging. They basically said it would be hard and expensive to find the problem. I was wondering if it could be a faulty fuse or a loose ground.
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  • I have the same car, and had the same problem, as have many others. If you can handle a soldering iron on electronic circuits (or if you know someone who can) you can fix the problem easily.
    You have to remove the instrument cluster from the dashboard. - not a big deal.

    The problem is on the circuit board on the back side of the instrument cluster. There are three ceramic power resistors( cylindrical items with color coding stripes. the resistor bodies on mine were blue) that are mounted too close to the circuit board. These get hot in operation and you will easily see where the circuit board is burned.

    The resistors are fine. The problem is that the solder joints that connect the resistors to the board have cracked due to thermal stress and the connection becomes intermittent. This is what causes the intermittent operation of your instrument cluster.

    I used some small pieces of wire to patch up the circuit board and reinforce the solder connections. When resoldering the resistor connections, I spaced the resistor bodies about 1/16 inch off the board, supported by their leads, instead of mounting them tightly against the circuit board. This removes the hot resistor from direct contact with the circuit board and gives room for air to circulate so the board won't burn again.
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  • of my 2002 GTC 5Speed is the free-revving 2.7L engine. Will easily redline in 3rd, 4th or 5th with plenty of torque. Can punch it to 90+ in 3rd to do freeway merge (in an emergency only, of course!). The rest of the car is pretty mediocre, build quality, engineering, sound system and little details (like no lumbar adjustment on driver's seat) all reflect the philosophy of corner/cost-cutting... resulting in very little "real value" and questionable reliability. I bought mine in December of 2007 and have put about 11K miles on it since. One other good thing - a surprise - is the 32MPG on regular gas.

    Because of low resale - I didn't pay a lot for this car, but it won't be worth much when I go to sell it either.

    ;)
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  • dklynn2dklynn2 Posts: 6
    Well, I'm surprised to see that there aren't any notes on rear view mirrors since 2005! But I also have this problem...my autodim mirror (the replacement one I found in a junkyard in San Diego after MUCH searching (I live in Virginia!!) is again fogged up to where it's practically unusable. I found some on eBay but they were not the right ones (must be convertible for the mounting bracket, must be '97 or '98 (I think) to have the 7-pin connector. Any leads?????? :confuse:
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  • rsgalrsgal Posts: 1
    :confuse: I just want to hear I'm not crazy.. that what I believe happened is POSSIBLE. In Apr. got the rear windshield in my 05 replaced (was falling out !) Dealer did work as it was under warranty. Got the car back and noticed I could hardly close the right side top latch (where it fits into header) without HUGE effort. Even had to sit in passenger side sometimes to get it to shut. It seemed to have come back to me outrageously tight but I thought (naively) "It must need to stretch out or something." Mid May I was washing the car and noticed a stress crack on the front windshield. It runs from the top on the passenger side (same area as inside right top latch) to mid windshield,and from the bottom (same area) to mid windshield. There's about a one inch uncracked space between the two cracks. I took the car back to the dealer and told them the whole story, showed them the crack, etc. Service manager agreed it was stress cracks but said since there was no proof it was due to the top being tight they'd not repair it. They also said I couldn't prove the top was tighter and that a new rear window being installed wouldnt make it tighter anyway. And.....sigh... it went out of warranty two weeks after initial work so I havent a leg to stand on. I just want to hear its POSSIBLE. Anyone else have a problem like this?
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  • jjj3rdjjj3rd Posts: 1
    Sometimes I get an urge to do the Twist when I drive, but never the Shimmy
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  • lolli2lolli2 Posts: 4
    I recently bought a 2002 Sebring Convertible LX and can't seem to find many aftermarket parts for it. I really want a chrome grill. I don't want one of those kits, but the actual whole grill. I guess the ones for the Sebring sedan don't fit. Anyone know where I can get one?
    Thanks in advance! I love the car so far.
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  • lolli2lolli2 Posts: 4
    Or maybe someone knows if a 2002 Chrysler Sebring Grill fit fit the 2002 LX? It looks like the GTC's grill is chrome. I called Chrysler and they didn't know if it would fit.
    Thanks!
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  • lolli2lolli2 Posts: 4
    Sorry, in the last message I was asking if anyone knew if the GTC convertible grill would fit an LX convertible.
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  • lolli2lolli2 Posts: 4
    Someone told me a 2001 Camaro grill would fit a Sebring LX convertible. Anyone know?
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  • slowhand2slowhand2 Posts: 2
    i have a 1997 with the same problems,why chryslar dont recall and fix i dont know....made in Mexico
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  • srikpsrikp Posts: 7
    I am contemplating buying a used 2001 Sebring Convertible LXi.

    The positive:

    1. As per the seller, the car has done only 59K miles
    2. The seller seems genuine and has openly admitted to what is/was wrong and whether or not she has fixed it
    3. She is willing to share the receipts and is open to anyone getting their own mechanic to inspect the car (could work both ways - you play with the psychology of the person or you are confident that the car will pass inspection)
    4. Willing to sell for $4500 (much less than KBB price of $8000+)

    The negatives:

    1. The car has had 2 owners
    2. As per carfax report, the car was involved in an accident and quotes structural damage. The seller has admitted that the dealer she bought it from did tell her about the accident but said it was repaired and re-certified to factory standards
    3. The car requires 2 new rear tires
    4. And the BIG ONE:

    a. As per carfax, the last odometer reading in May 2007 was 64K miles
    b. As per seller, the odometer reading now is 59K miles
    c. She says the dealer who send the update to carfax must have sent 54K instead of 64K and it was entered incorrectly

    So I would like your advise....is this a good deal or what?
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  • sizsiz Posts: 2
    2003 Sebring convertible. Front passenger seat (non-electric) is jammed as far back as possible. Pulling up the release bar at the front of the seat doesn't help. How can I release it?
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  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    Walk away from it and shop elsewhere. Sebring convertibles are a dime a dozen. You can find them anywhere because so many were rentals that were dumped onto the used car market. Good luck.
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  • take a look under the seat i also own a sebring but dont have this problem, but my girlfriend,s van has the same problem i looked under the seat and there was a broken wire that goes to locks on both sides the the seat when the lever is pulled check to see if this wire has broken or has come off.
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  • I got a chrysler 300C and i was just wondering if the cover will damage my paint by any chance. Becuz I got myself a new cover for my car from carscover.com and just worried that it might scratch my paint and i really don't want to see that happen to my car.
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  • jav008jav008 Posts: 1
    HI: I had the same problem with the odometer, however I got it fix by a help of some friends, I will give you the link and follow the instructions. It will work I haven't had a problem since. http://members.cox.net/dpeters30/97_sebring_dash.htm
    have a nice day
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  • I am new to forums and new to this one. The reason for mounting resistors close to the circuit board is to draw heat away from the resistor using the circuit board to dissipate the heat. It is not a good idea with ceramic resistors (which tend to run fairly hot) and not with cheap circuit boards. The combination is trouble with a capital T. Your fix seems sound as long as the resistor doesn't end up near plastic.
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  • I know that you posted in 2005 but I am faced with the same problem now. What was the fix? If there is a reservour, where is it and did your system just need a good burp?
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  • I have a 1998 Sebring Convertible who's top is not coming up without help. The dealer say's the fluid has leaked out and to replace the pumps and motor (which are still working). Have you received any replies to your problem. Is there a way to fill the system without replacing ? Thanks Ron
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  • Ron, I have not received any replies. I just checked the fluid level at the pump in my car and it looks plenty full. I was thinking that a place that specializes in hydraulics might have a better way to burp the system and/or find leaks. The reservoir may not be higher up than the rest of the system.
    Before getting too involved, I lubricated all the joints with a spray lubricant. My personal choice was white grease. It worked for a few months then the problem came back.
    In my 2002 the motor/reservoir is behind the rear seat. The seat bottom pulls straight up from the front and easily pulls forward and out. The rear is easily pulled up and out after removing the two nuts (17mm) that hold the seat belt/lower bracket plate in the center of the backrest on the floor. I also removed the two bolts (T50) that secure the seat belts to the floor at each end. I will keep you posted.
    Isaac
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  • Karen_CMKaren_CM Posts: 5,040
    An advertising agency would like to speak with satisfied Chrysler Sebring drivers. If you own or regularly drive one of these vehicles, please respond to jwahl@edmunds.com with your daytime contact information no later than Friday, October 31st.

    Community Manager If you have any questions or concerns about the Forums, send me an email, karen@edmunds.com, or click on my screen name to send a personal message.

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  • I have a 2005 Sebring Convertable that developed the following: The Auto headlight switch stopped working, except when the car is shut off than the lights come out and will go out automatically. The convertable top switch stopped working so I can not use the top. The heated seats stopped working and the Auto heat also stopped working.
    It is at the dealership now and has been all day and they do not have a clue what is wrong (at $98 an hour). Has anyone experianced this problem or any part that I discribed, it would be helpful.
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  • I have a 98 convertible and having serious problems with it. It has been at the dealership for 3 weeks and they cant figure it out! When you first start the car after sitting over night it will run just fine for about 5 min. then when you give it gas it stalls and wants to die. It will sit and idle but when you give it gas it stalls and dies! It will drive down the road at about 15 mph but give it anymore gas than that it stalls and dies if you dont let off of it! They have replaced (so far) MAP sensor, fuel pump and filter, catalytic converter, fuel line that was bad, nothing has worked. It is showing no codes, dealership says now they do not know what is wrong! Can anyone help?? They are now leaning towards the distributor???
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  • I hate to say this but fire 'em and take it some place else.. When you plug in the OBD2 diagnostic computer and it shows no codes then the problem has to be an obvious mechanical issue.. Like they didn't bleed off the air out of the injector rail or it has a vacume leak some where in the air intake system. Even if the engine is misfiring the computer will show it.. I'm really surprised that the O2 sensors aren't coughing up codes though.. If it were a distributor issue then what does the timing look like on the timing gun? BTW replacing the catalytic converter for this issue was really streaching it. At the end of the day sound like they are shotgunning the repair not troubleshooting it..
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