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Chrysler Sebring Convertible

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Comments

  • Hello & thank you for replying ! I'm worried about the VW Eos (leaking problems) but then again...if you search the internet long enough, you're going to find problems with EVERY vehicle out there ! (My current convertible does NOT leak, yet many other people have this same car that does leak). It's just like looking for a hotel at Trip Advisor . com . ... . there isn't a hotel out there that has ONLY positive reviews ! Still, I feel worried about picking the Eos over the Seabring as it's a "VW" and I haven't loved my jetta VW or my cabrio VW . . .. but the Eos seems so much more fun than the Seabring! Oh...I just don't know.... :shades:
  • Considering that your concerned about the possibility of problems down the road (pun intended), it might be a good idea to determine the cost of extended warranties for the EOS and the Sebring. I don't know how they compare, but my point is that if the extended warranty is considerably more expensive on one car than the other, the warranty company's perception is that there is comensurately greater chance that repair expenses will be greater.
  • Does anyone know what the current factory-to-dealer unadvertised incentive is for 2008 Sebring Touring Convertibles? I live in Buffalo, NY and am looking for a sweeter deal now, with the snow flying and heading into December.

    Any advice on purchasing this vehicle is appreciated - thanks in advance.

    -Dan
  • tedebeartedebear Posts: 832
    I can tell you what the EP (employee purchase) price would be. Then it's just a matter of contacting an employee for one of their 2 non relative discount codes.

    Go to www.chrysler.com and click on the Build My Own link. Make of note of the exact color, packages, options you want and post it here. I'll tell you the price.
  • Tedebear,

    This is cut-and-paste from the actual sticker on-line, item for item:

    CHRYSLER SEBRING TOURING CONVERTIBLE
    Exterior Color: Brilliant Black Crystal Pearl Coat Exterior Paint
    Interior Color: Dark Khaki/Light Graystone Interior Colors
    Interior: Leather-Trimmed Bucket Seats
    Engine: 2.7-Liter V6 DOHC 24-Valve MPI Engine
    Transmission: 4-Speed Automatic Transmission
    STANDARD EQUIPMENT(UNLESS REPLACED BY OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT)
    FUNCTIONAL / SAFETY FEATURES
    Advanced Multistage Front Air Bags**
    Supplemental Front Seat Side Air Bags**
    Supplemental Side Air Bags**
    LATCH-Ready Child Seat Anchor System
    Child Seat Upper Tether Anchorages
    Rear Window Defroster
    Anti-Lock 4-Wheel-Disc Brakes
    Touring Suspension
    Power Locks
    Headlamp Off Time Delay
    Speed Control
    Sentry Key(R) Theft-Deterrent System
    Keyless Entry
    Power Windows with 1-Touch Down in Front
    Power Top and Windows Down Key Fob
    Power Rack-and-Pinion Steering
    Inside Emergency Trunk Lid Release
    Power Trunklid Release
    Power Accessory Delay
    Variable Intermittent Windshield Wipers
    INTERIOR FEATURES
    Air Conditioning
    Rearview Mirror with Reading Lamps
    Driver's Manually-Adjustable Lumbar Support
    YES Essentials(R) Stain/Odor Resistant Seat Fabric
    AM/FM Stereo Radio w/In-Dash 6-Disc DVD/MP3 Player
    6 Speakers
    Traveler/Mini Trip Computer
    Analog Clock
    Temperature and Compass Gauge
    Tachometer
    Tire Pressure Monitoring Display
    Center Floor Console with Fore/Aft Sliding Armrest
    Rear Courtesy Console Lamp
    Satin Silver Instrument Panel Bezel
    Center Console 12-Volt Power Outlet
    Auxiliary 12-Volt Power Outlet
    Electroluminescent Instrument Cluster
    Tilt/Telescope Steering Column

    PRICE INFORMATION (contd.)
    "Touring" Badge
    Premium Front and Rear Floor Mats
    EXTERIOR FEATURES
    Power Vinyl Convertible Top
    Hard Tonneau Cover
    Quad LHD Optics Headlamps
    17" x 7.0" Aluminum Wheels
    P215/60R17 BSW All Season Tires
    Power Heated Mirrors
    Removable Short Mast Antenna


    OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT
    Customer Preferred Package 28E
    Electronics Convenience Group $ 910
    Auto-Dimming Mirror with Reading Lamp
    Air Conditioning with Automatic Temperature Control
    Air Filtering
    Automatic Headlamps
    Security Alarm
    Remote Start System
    Universal Garage Door Opener
    Heated/Cooled Front Console Cupholder
    Special Touring Group $ 1,495
    Leather-Trimmed Bucket Seats
    Leather-Wrapped Shift Knob
    Fog Lamps
    Steering Wheel-Mounted Audio Controls
    Leather-Wrapped Steering Wheel
    Power Cloth Convertible Top
    18" x 7.0" Aluminum Wheels
    P215/55R18 BSW AS Touring Tires
    Windscreen
    Electronic Stability Program $ 425
    Traction Control
    6 Boston Acoustics Speakers $ 495
    SIRIUS(R) Satellite Radio $ 195
    1-Year Service Provided by SIRIUS(R)
    For More Information, Call 1-888-539-7474
    Taupe Cloth Top


    DESTINATION CHARGE $ 675


    TOTAL PRICE:* $ 32,265

    He called me last week, told me to "come on in, Christmas has come early!" I asked him for a price range we'll be dealing from, and he refused. I haven't talked to him since. All he said was it would be significantly below invoice. I figure the unadvertised incentive must be significant.

    Thanks for your help,

    -Dan
  • tedebeartedebear Posts: 832
    Dan, I tried to configure a vehicle on the Build My Own link based on what you listed. As close as I could get to it was $32,440, including the $675 destination charge. Some things that were previously individual options sometimes get included in packages during the model year and the package price changes.

    Anyway, the EC price for what I came up with is $27,269. That includes a $2,000 cash allowance (rebate) and a $3,171 employee discount. There is also a $200 program fee that would be added for any non-employee or relative.

    The two MSRP sticker prices are within $200 of each other and it should get you fairly close to what the EC price would be for that particular vehicle.
  • I posted this in the wrong discussion group yesterday so will try again.
    I had got out of my 1997 Sebring JXi in the driveway and noticed that the drivers side window was down. I reached in and pushed the button to close it but it stopped half way up. I lowered it all the way and tried again. This time it stopped briefly, made a horrible snapping sound and went up. I thought it had gone up properly until I closed the door. The window hit the top and in front of the door behind the mirror. What had happened was it had gone up about 2 inches higher than it should have.

    I pulled the door panel to see if it was out of a channel or something but when I really don't know how it works, it is hard to determine the problem. What I really wanted to do was remove the window then put it back in to see if it was out of place. Does anyone know how to remove the window? Also, I could see an adjustment at the rear side of the window to stop it, is there something like that at the front? Any other ideas about what actually happened and how to fix it would be appreciated.
  • Claire@EdmundsClaire@Edmunds Chicago areaPosts: 968
    Hi, mcginty,

    You did get a response in the other topic -- you might want to take a look at it to see if it answers your question while you're waiting for an answer here.
    Chrysler Sebring Transmission Issues

    Claire

    HOST

  • I am a real man and I just bought one. I have heard that also, but I say, what the heck, it's a pretty car, big enough to carry a set of clubs & on long trips I can add so fun on warm sunny days.

    Go for it! Real men don't care what others think!

    KG
  • tedebeartedebear Posts: 832
    Wow - you know your reply was to a message that was originally posted on Dec 22, 2003, nearly 4 years ago, right?
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Well, sometimes search engines dump people onto older pages, so if bigeee did not notice, it's completely understandable.

    Welcome to CarSpace, bigeee - glad to have you aboard! :)
  • My battery will only hold a charge sometimes. Every few days My car will not start, the battery is dead, even jumping it is hard. I put a new battery in twice and soon after the same thing happens again. I jumped it one day and then drove it about 10 miles and it would not start again, the next day I jumped it and drove it about 15-20 miles and later that day it started just fine. The only thing that happens that may be unique is that when the battery is almost dead, not enough to turn it over, the ignition light (where I put the key) will filcker and quietly buzz? I have no access to a garage and I love my car, does anyone have any idea what is going on? I am ready to pull my hair out, please help if anyone can.
  • tedebeartedebear Posts: 832
    You said your battery is failing to hold a charge - even two new batteries are doing this. Are you sure the charging system is okay? Places like AutoZone will check it for free if you don't have access to the proper testing equipment.

    Here's a link to checking the charging system. There are a few things you might look at that the person at AutoZone won't inspect. Some things, such as corrosion, loose connections and proper tension on the alternator belt don't require any meters or special tools.

    http://autorepair.about.com/od/electricaltroubleshooting/a/battery_check.htm
  • Hi, I have a 2006 Sebring convertible (Touring) and the theft alarm has been going off randomly. I have tried to de-activate by using the key rather than the remote to no avail. Has anyone experienced this? Thanks!
  • I have a 1997 Sebring JXi convertible. At times,usually shortly after starting the car, the digital display for the odometer and automatic transmission and the tachometer quit working. After 10 or 15 minutes they come back on and stay on most the time. Only once when I was driving several hours did it go off more than once. Does anyone have any idea what could be wrong? I asked a Chrysler service department and they didn't sound too encouraging. They basically said it would be hard and expensive to find the problem. I was wondering if it could be a faulty fuse or a loose ground.
  • I have the same car, and had the same problem, as have many others. If you can handle a soldering iron on electronic circuits (or if you know someone who can) you can fix the problem easily.
    You have to remove the instrument cluster from the dashboard. - not a big deal.

    The problem is on the circuit board on the back side of the instrument cluster. There are three ceramic power resistors( cylindrical items with color coding stripes. the resistor bodies on mine were blue) that are mounted too close to the circuit board. These get hot in operation and you will easily see where the circuit board is burned.

    The resistors are fine. The problem is that the solder joints that connect the resistors to the board have cracked due to thermal stress and the connection becomes intermittent. This is what causes the intermittent operation of your instrument cluster.

    I used some small pieces of wire to patch up the circuit board and reinforce the solder connections. When resoldering the resistor connections, I spaced the resistor bodies about 1/16 inch off the board, supported by their leads, instead of mounting them tightly against the circuit board. This removes the hot resistor from direct contact with the circuit board and gives room for air to circulate so the board won't burn again.
  • of my 2002 GTC 5Speed is the free-revving 2.7L engine. Will easily redline in 3rd, 4th or 5th with plenty of torque. Can punch it to 90+ in 3rd to do freeway merge (in an emergency only, of course!). The rest of the car is pretty mediocre, build quality, engineering, sound system and little details (like no lumbar adjustment on driver's seat) all reflect the philosophy of corner/cost-cutting... resulting in very little "real value" and questionable reliability. I bought mine in December of 2007 and have put about 11K miles on it since. One other good thing - a surprise - is the 32MPG on regular gas.

    Because of low resale - I didn't pay a lot for this car, but it won't be worth much when I go to sell it either.

    ;)
  • dklynn2dklynn2 Posts: 6
    Well, I'm surprised to see that there aren't any notes on rear view mirrors since 2005! But I also have this problem...my autodim mirror (the replacement one I found in a junkyard in San Diego after MUCH searching (I live in Virginia!!) is again fogged up to where it's practically unusable. I found some on eBay but they were not the right ones (must be convertible for the mounting bracket, must be '97 or '98 (I think) to have the 7-pin connector. Any leads?????? :confuse:
  • rsgalrsgal Posts: 1
    :confuse: I just want to hear I'm not crazy.. that what I believe happened is POSSIBLE. In Apr. got the rear windshield in my 05 replaced (was falling out !) Dealer did work as it was under warranty. Got the car back and noticed I could hardly close the right side top latch (where it fits into header) without HUGE effort. Even had to sit in passenger side sometimes to get it to shut. It seemed to have come back to me outrageously tight but I thought (naively) "It must need to stretch out or something." Mid May I was washing the car and noticed a stress crack on the front windshield. It runs from the top on the passenger side (same area as inside right top latch) to mid windshield,and from the bottom (same area) to mid windshield. There's about a one inch uncracked space between the two cracks. I took the car back to the dealer and told them the whole story, showed them the crack, etc. Service manager agreed it was stress cracks but said since there was no proof it was due to the top being tight they'd not repair it. They also said I couldn't prove the top was tighter and that a new rear window being installed wouldnt make it tighter anyway. And.....sigh... it went out of warranty two weeks after initial work so I havent a leg to stand on. I just want to hear its POSSIBLE. Anyone else have a problem like this?
  • jjj3rdjjj3rd Posts: 1
    Sometimes I get an urge to do the Twist when I drive, but never the Shimmy
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