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Chrysler Cirrus

I found this used car 23000mi for $5000. It's 98 Chrysler Cirrus and the second owner is selling it. It doesn't have many mileages because the second owner drove it to commute from home to school. I don't know about the first owner. I was told that it was mostly parked, and didn't need much mechanic attention since she bought it.

My concern is that since the car is not produced any more by Chrysler, does that mean I won't be able to find parts when I need them?

How long do you think I could use the car if I maintain it nicely?

I was looking for Nissan Altima also. It was 99 Nissan Altima GXE dark brown and a little over 70000 miles for $6800. The price came out higher than the value and it is negotiable.

I am attracted to Chrysler because of low mileages yet, I love Nissan Altima...I can't decide which one to go with.

Please HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Comments

  • gsemikegsemike Long Island, NYPosts: 1,788
    Don't worry about parts availability. Between the Stratus, the Cirrus, and whatever the plymouth version was, they sold plenty of them. Daimler will support it parts wise for years to come and since it's five years old, the supply of used parts should be getting pretty rich.

    I don't have too much experience with that car but it's generally decent looking and was well received when new. I'm an Altima owner but I try to be open minded. The price sounds pretty good considering the miles. Check out the Chrysler message boards and see what owners' experiences have been. Watch for common threads. It will help you know what to look out for.

    If it checks out, drive it reasonably and invest in preventive maintenance and it should be OK.

    Good luck.
  • boredbored Posts: 300
    They are actually still in production. Sure, it looks refreshed, but engines, transmissions, and many other parts are still used. I've driven both (although in and out of the driveway '98 Stratus, and an '04 Stratus) and they feel the same to me. I'm not sure whether that was a valid statement though.

    My dad works at the plant that builds the Stratus/Sebring (and previously, the Cirrus/Breeze) and I can say that a lot of hard work goes into these cars, even though the work is quite frustrating to them sometimes.

    If I were you, I wouldn't worry about the cars, since they tend to be reliable. There's a '98 Stratus, and a '01 Stratus, and previously a '96 in my immediate family, and they have never given any major problems. They were all 4 cylinder models though.

    Good luck with your choice.
  • uga91uga91 Metro AtlantaPosts: 1,065
    I remember somewhere in the mid to late 1990's when one major car magazine called the Cirrus "the new benchmark" for its segment--or something along those lines. Obviously it did not help too much, but I've always believed the Cirrus was a good car. Good luck.
  • Chrysler Cirruses have a bad history for electrical problems. as well as problems with the transmission, water pump oxygen sensors etc. I would say go with the altima at least its not a cirrus. I have had 2 different chrysler cirus's 2 different years and I have had ALOT of problems with both. ITS NOT WORTH IT!!
     LOL sorry about the caps but I have to warn you
  • boredbored Posts: 300
    Just out of curiosity, how many miles did you Cirruses have? At what mileage did you have these problems?

    You must also remember that no car is perfect. I haven't heard about problems with the Cloud Cars, and neither do I see them in for any type of service, except oil changes and regular maintenance. I live in the Motor City, so I have been in and out of my share of dealerships, and their service departments. I also live in a Chrysler biased family, and we all have enjoyed decades of reliable Chryslers.

    My mother is about to purchase a 2004 Jeep Liberty. I'm thinking about a Jeep Wrangler for myself.

    Oxygen sensors are weak links in MANY cars. Water Pumps tend to go with higher mileage. I don't know anything about your transmission troubles though.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    I have heard similar stories regarding the Cirrus as smurfmom suggested. It is not the most reliable car. And it does get rough sounding (engine not as responsive) as it ages. But I would suggest the original poster to take a serious look at this car. teh main reason is the price and mileage. Since the car was obviously a commuter car, some parts will go beofre the normal mileage but for $5000 you are getting a decent looking car.

    I would suggest having a mechanic go over the car thoroughly. If you do buy it Iwould change all fluids and belts in the vehicle. 5 years is about the limit for belts no matter the mileage. Make sure they inspect the brakes and suspension closely. if I rememmber right, I thought the cloud cars were a little weak in the front suspension. If your mechanic says everything looks good, I would buy it.

    Offer $4500 and see what they say.
  • sexton5sexton5 Posts: 1
    Where do I start? I bought my Cirrus back in January (about 8 months ago) and it has been nothing but serious trouble and irritation. I bought it with 98,000 miles from a professor that I work with who bought it new, and who had every scheduled oil change, tune up, and tire rotation on record from day one. You'd think it would be a great car right?

    A week after I bought it, the water pump/seals/timing belt needed replacement (a cost of $800)...

    A month later, the fuel pump/injection system needed repair (about $550)...

    One of my brake lights went out, so I bought a new bulb and installed it, at which point shorted out all of the other lights in my car, and cost me about $300 to rewire the system.

    After that, the brakes/shocks/struts needed replacing even though my co-worker who I bought the car from, had them done 3 months before I bought it. cost? $600

    Finally (or currently, I should say), I've had 3 different sensors replaced at $200 a piece- crankshaft mechanism sensor, and throttle position sensor TWICE...

    Since my car still wouldn't run right, my mechanic put a brand new computer system in it last week at a cost of $850, and 3 days later it failed again and is currently in his shop. He brought in a Chrysler computer systems specialist, who is attempting to diagnose it at $70 per hour, and at this point is completely baffled....

    DOES ANYONE OUT THERE KNOW WHAT IS WRONG WITH THIS STUPID CAR???? I am beyond frustrated, but can't sell this car because it never stays running long enough to put on the market...HELP!

    Sincerely,
          VERY UPSET Chrysler owner
  • I did own a Black 95' Cirrus LXI

    For the time when I had it, it was a great car. Seemed to run great . . . Then the A/C decided to go out at 57,000 miles (In Oklahoma, the weather isn't very forgiving)

    Next was the Right Front brake rotor, decided to warp itself at 81,000 miles, that and now I had this annoying piston knocking sound
     
    After that was the Fuel Pump which put the car out of service at 101,000 miles

    Thinking I was in the clear the Transmission decides it only wants 3rd gear to work at 120,000 miles

    I hadn't had any suspension problems or anything like that. As heavy as the car is (4,100lbs) and as hard as I drove it I was surprised. The 2.5L V6 could have been juiced out for a little more power, but it was decent enough. If you don't mind routine repairs on the car then keep it, otherwise I would suggest getting another car. I went on to a Z24 Cavalier which has been great so far.
  • bdasbdas Posts: 1
    I bought a Chrysler Cirrus 95 model two months back.The milage on the car is 80k. I am the second woner.The problem is that,First time when I drove the car for more than 20 miles and parked it for 1hr in a sunny day , after 1 hr when I start, it started but after running for less than a mile it died and could not restart it.I left the car for 20 min, after 20 min when I start it started and I drove again 20 miles without any problem, but after parking it for 45min again it died.Mechanic told that ignition wire(which goes from ignition key) was the problem, I changed the wire.But today again the same thing happened after driving for nearly 22 miles and parking it for 1hr it died aging and could not start it for 1hr.While it was dying I checked all the controls were in normal condition.
  • bailey3bailey3 Posts: 2
    I bought a 95 Cirrus 5 months ago with 147,000 kms. A few weeks ago my husband lost the keyless entry remote, which was ok until he locked the doors with the power door lock and then used the key to open the door again and set off the factory alarm. He couldn't disarm it, tried all variations of using the key in the drivers and passengers doors, disconnected the battery, nothing worked. He bought a used remote and took the car to the Chrysler dealer, (towed it as it won't run). They told him they could re program this remote in a few minutes, to work with my car. WRONG, nothing they have done will disarm the alarm system. It is still at the dealer and they are calling Chrysler motors back and forth. What kind of a car manufacturer makes a car that a dealer can't fix. We asked if they could just disable the alarm all together but that apparently can't be done. I'm so frustrated that I will not have another Chrysler. Back to a Toyota for me if I can get this one running long enough to sell it.
  • laborpoorlaborpoor Posts: 1
    I have a Cirrus 95 and it is nothing but headaches.
    I have replaced distributer 2 x
    Alarm would not shut off causing me to tow it to the dealer and have the trunk switch replaced.
    Air conditioner went out had it fixed
    Replaced the started it died too.
    Transmission replaced it went out
    Complete tune up plugs wires everything.
    Towed 5x
    And still have the same problem it dies at stop lights then starts if I am lucky. Then when I shut it off it won't start back up.
    Sometimes just driving it dies and won't start for a few hours or days.
    My mechanic said the fuel pump is fine he feels it is electrical but since I have already paid 4700 in repairs he does not want to replace the BCM or the PCM just yet because it may or may not be the problem. He says that when it dies out he tries to read the codes but the computer has nothing there it earases any errors. Help my please I think I could have bought a new car by now for as much as the dealer has charged me in repairs and still walking.
  • bobv2bobv2 Posts: 1
    The sun has damaged the threads on the black leather interior. How do I get the rear seatback out and apart to restitch the leather seat?
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    In response to your email, try the Got a Quick, Technical Question? discussion - maybe someone there can offer some advice or point you to a more helpful discussion there on the Maintenance & Repair board.

    Good luck - post back here how you make out.
  • our friend has purchased a 95 cirrus at aution. with 112,000 on it under 2000 $

    all i have seen so far is not good for this model year. anyone have any suggestions?

    what gas mileage does it get? 2.5 V6.

    thanks bretsky1
  • d1u8d1u8 Posts: 1
    IS THIS GOING TO BE A DIFFICULT TASK AT HAND? I'M TRYING TO MAXIMIZE THE 4CYLINDER BLOCK'S PERFORMANCE...."KEEP IT OR CONVERT IT?????"
  • My 19 year old daughter's used Cirrus '95 unpredictably revs to above 6000 RPMs at highway speeds; often, the steering simultaneously becomes very stiff (as if the power steering is gone). She has to pull over, turn off the car, wait a bit, then re-start it. Is the transmission going? Is this a solenoid problem? Could it be a sensor? Which one? It seems very dangerous.
  • aka1aka1 Posts: 110
    I had a Cirrus the first year it was made- 1995, LXi- with the V6. The first time I test drove the vehicle I knew I needed to have it. The suspension was firm, the handling tight, the V6 had adequate power to pull strongly through the gears, the Infinity Sound system was decent.

    The first day out of the dealership, I took the car to my uncle's home, he warned me about Chryslers, "buy a GM, but never Chrysler or Ford." He reluctantly got in for a test drive, and actually enjoyed it. He rescinded his comments about buying the Cirrus. As we are opening the door to exit, the drivers side door panel falls off, somehow all the clips were not fastened or had come undone. That is some great quality, I must say.

    The following week, as I am driving back from the office, the battery light comes on- Chicago bumper to bumper traffic. As I try to make my way to the shoulder, the car completely quits on me, I just barely make it to the shoulder, and have to push the car to allow traffic to flow around me. It was the alternator, it had failed.

    As I am waiting for my family to get into the car on a hot Summer day, I have the A/C on so that its not so hot in the car, the next thing you know I have a "CLOUD" of white smoke and a hissing noise. At first you'd think there was a leak in the radiator- as I shut off the engine, and take note the temp. is still normal, I open the hood- to my dismay its not the radiator or its hoses, its the A/C unit, one of the fittings had failed, again, exemplary quality.

    Six months of ownership, transmission gets stuck in 3rd gear, Limp Home Mode. Dealer ship replaces transmission, prognosis: the transmission was installed with return line kinked, insufficient cooling, burned clutches. Covered under warranty- again I cannot begin to comment on the absolutely Honda Slaying Quality of Chrysler.

    The car was returned to me 3 and 1/2 weeks later, the car drove very very rough, checked the oil, and it was fine. The car one day seized on me- the engine had a oil line problem, and since I had the oil changed while the car was getting its Tranny changed out, it was ultimately the technician that installed the tranny, had done something to prevent the flow of sufficient oil to the engine. Great training comes from great companies.

    I dropped the Cirrus and traded it in for a Volvo 850 GLT... If you are considering a Cirrus, please be forewarned, the 1995 Cirrus has a lot of problems, make sure the work that was performed has and is being documented, make sure all the RECALL work has been done. I would stay away from 95-97 Cirri and stick with models after those years.

    Good Luck!
  • dsharkeydsharkey Posts: 4
    Have had relatively few problems until several weeks ago when the car would almost stall at stop lights. Putting it in neutal would help. But while driving 65 MPH on the interstate, the car jumped forward without warning. Took it to the repair shop and had the distributor replaced for nearly $900 including labor. Car is still exhibiting the same tendencies...RPM's will jump even with foot off the pedal. Any ideas from anyone as to what is happening? Thanks.
  • upstater1upstater1 Posts: 1
    The tab on the driver side wiper arm has broken repeatedly, disabling the arm. The nut remained tight. The gap between the bottom of the wiper arm and the locator is about twice the gap on the passenger side. I have had it inspected by a dealer who could find nothing wrong. Anyone have similar experiences or suggestions?
  • washeywashey Posts: 1
    Does anyone know where the expansion valve is, on a 99 cirrus?
  • I have a 95 Cirrus which runs great except that it has started to burn oil only while idling or city driving. On the freeway it does not burn a drop. Could this be the valve guides?
    Thanks..Peter
  • jkenjken Posts: 2
    Can someone tell me the location of the fuel filter on a 2000 Cirrus.
    Thank You.
  • lee03lee03 Posts: 3
    I think the fuel filter is tucked up behind the fuel tank, mounted to the frame above the rear suspension crossmember. At least that's what my repair manual is telling me. How accurate it is I'm not sure, it ranges for cirrus's 1995 - 2000.
  • lee03lee03 Posts: 3
    All I can tell you about the car is it's a '95 Cirrus with a V-6 and about 160,000 miles. When we first bought it four years ago we had to replace the main computer, three or four sensors, but that was it. The car has driven like a dream up until about two weeks ago when it just quit running. It didn't run or sound rough or give any indication that something was wrong.

    My husband was on his way home for work and the car just died. The only warning he had that something might've been wrong was a belt that he started hearing that night when he went on his lunch break. Considering it was 17 degrees outside we thought it might have something to do with the cold weather and didn't pay it too much mind. That was until the car made some faint knocking noise and then died on a back country road at 4 in the morning. Now I've heard this knocking noise before. It happened to me shortly before the distributor started going out about 7 months ago. A year before that the distributor went out for the first time and the car had to be towed over 500 miles to get it home.

    Considering the distributor has given us so many problems here recently I just assumed that was the problem. But a distributor is a part that you can get a lifetime warranty on, so it shouldn't go out that often unless something else is wrong.

    We had an automatic start/ car alarm installed on the car about six months before the distributor first went out, and the dealership didn't reattach the wire that was supposed to run the automatic start to the distributor. After about 6 months we had it reconnected, and lo and behold 6 months later the distributor went out again.

    I thought maybe it was the automatic start that was causing the problems, but I ran a diagnostic on the car and it gave me trouble code 54. 54 is supposed to be no camshaft position sensor signal from the distributor OR problem with the distributor synchronization circuit. We were told the camshaft position sensor was located somewhere in the distributor assembly itself and to replace it we'd have to replace the distributor. Money's tight so we just swapped out the old distributor (we have a lifetime warranty on it), and installed a new one.

    The car still doesn't run. It doesn't even try to turn over. At least before when the distributor'd gone out it tried to turn over. I'm really at a loss for what to do next. I'm not entirely sure what the distributor synchronization circuit is or where to find it. I don't even know if I replaced it when I replaced the distributor. I'm trying to avoid taking the car to the dealership seeing as how they overcharge so ridiculously. (The 1st time they wanted $900.00 for the distributor, the 2nd time $450.00...whereas Autozone has sold it all along for 2 something.) It surely can't be the starter can it? Not if the car died while running and the car gave us a trouble code...
  • Got a Cirrus, 3 weeks later it died constantly at stop lights,signs,and driving under 30mph. Took it to Dealer,very horrible experience. They didn't care, acted like it was my fault(I'm female), talked to me like I'm stupid!!! Horrible customer service!!! They replaced the computer system, when I got my car back it ran worse than before I brought it in. Took it back, still dying they said it was distributor. $1200 to replace. I'm a college student I don't have that. My Dad said," he'd pay for it one of my friend's put it in". $400 distributor, it still dies just not as bad.
    So now I'll try the Throttle Position Sensor.
    It revs really high a random times and I have to shut my car off.
    A/C Unit gone $1500 to replace(CA doesn't get that hot)
    2 sets brakes(I need a third)
    Electric driver's seat doesn't move(glad I was driving, it's set for me)
    I'm still grateful I got or I wouldn't have a car at all:)

    :confuse:
  • sbaughmansbaughman Posts: 1
    I've had my Cirrus for one year. No major problems untill today. Driving at about 45mph, it made a "klunk" noise and wont shift into drive or overdrive. It also made the speedometer quit working and the little squares around the gear that show what gear you are in on the dash have a square around all of the gears. Usually when the tranny goes, you only have your direct drive gears ( 1st and reverse ) but I have 1st,2nd,and reverse. I'm stumped!
  • What you describe is a failed output speed sensor. Very easy and cheap fix. I have a 99 cirrus and had an input sensor go at 10k miles. Replaced under warranty. The sensor runs around $15-20. It can be replaced in about 5-10 minutes from under the car. It is the outer most sensor on the drivers side. The input sensor is in between the cooling lines and the output is to the right side of that. All you need is a 1" combo wrench.
    Any questions email me.

    Lou
  • So, on 6/4/07 brought a used 2000 Chrysler Cirrus and a week later the check engine light came on. Of course the place i brought it from didnt want to help me. So since I knew the car need to be fixed I took it to a mechanic. To make a long story short the bill came to $1300. The car needed a new ECN and once they tried to replace it they found that someone tried to put a used/refurbished one in so then i needed another ECN (body module).
    So I thought that was the end of things. My car was in the shop for 30 days. I got it back on July 13 2007 and after 1 day none of the gages didn't work. So, now its back at the mechanic and now they are saying something is wrong with the circuit board. So, I was wondering someone knows the price on this?
    thanks
  • I have a 95 Cirrus with factory alarm and lost the key less remote, all I have to do is lock all the doors then unlock with the key on the passenger side front door to disarm the alarm. not sure if it works on all factory alarms or not but hard to believe the dealer wouldn't know that, then again they never seem to get anything right.
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