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Chrysler Cirrus



  • washeywashey Posts: 1
    Does anyone know where the expansion valve is, on a 99 cirrus?
  • I have a 95 Cirrus which runs great except that it has started to burn oil only while idling or city driving. On the freeway it does not burn a drop. Could this be the valve guides?
  • jkenjken Posts: 2
    Can someone tell me the location of the fuel filter on a 2000 Cirrus.
    Thank You.
  • lee03lee03 Posts: 3
    I think the fuel filter is tucked up behind the fuel tank, mounted to the frame above the rear suspension crossmember. At least that's what my repair manual is telling me. How accurate it is I'm not sure, it ranges for cirrus's 1995 - 2000.
  • lee03lee03 Posts: 3
    All I can tell you about the car is it's a '95 Cirrus with a V-6 and about 160,000 miles. When we first bought it four years ago we had to replace the main computer, three or four sensors, but that was it. The car has driven like a dream up until about two weeks ago when it just quit running. It didn't run or sound rough or give any indication that something was wrong.

    My husband was on his way home for work and the car just died. The only warning he had that something might've been wrong was a belt that he started hearing that night when he went on his lunch break. Considering it was 17 degrees outside we thought it might have something to do with the cold weather and didn't pay it too much mind. That was until the car made some faint knocking noise and then died on a back country road at 4 in the morning. Now I've heard this knocking noise before. It happened to me shortly before the distributor started going out about 7 months ago. A year before that the distributor went out for the first time and the car had to be towed over 500 miles to get it home.

    Considering the distributor has given us so many problems here recently I just assumed that was the problem. But a distributor is a part that you can get a lifetime warranty on, so it shouldn't go out that often unless something else is wrong.

    We had an automatic start/ car alarm installed on the car about six months before the distributor first went out, and the dealership didn't reattach the wire that was supposed to run the automatic start to the distributor. After about 6 months we had it reconnected, and lo and behold 6 months later the distributor went out again.

    I thought maybe it was the automatic start that was causing the problems, but I ran a diagnostic on the car and it gave me trouble code 54. 54 is supposed to be no camshaft position sensor signal from the distributor OR problem with the distributor synchronization circuit. We were told the camshaft position sensor was located somewhere in the distributor assembly itself and to replace it we'd have to replace the distributor. Money's tight so we just swapped out the old distributor (we have a lifetime warranty on it), and installed a new one.

    The car still doesn't run. It doesn't even try to turn over. At least before when the distributor'd gone out it tried to turn over. I'm really at a loss for what to do next. I'm not entirely sure what the distributor synchronization circuit is or where to find it. I don't even know if I replaced it when I replaced the distributor. I'm trying to avoid taking the car to the dealership seeing as how they overcharge so ridiculously. (The 1st time they wanted $900.00 for the distributor, the 2nd time $450.00...whereas Autozone has sold it all along for 2 something.) It surely can't be the starter can it? Not if the car died while running and the car gave us a trouble code...
  • Got a Cirrus, 3 weeks later it died constantly at stop lights,signs,and driving under 30mph. Took it to Dealer,very horrible experience. They didn't care, acted like it was my fault(I'm female), talked to me like I'm stupid!!! Horrible customer service!!! They replaced the computer system, when I got my car back it ran worse than before I brought it in. Took it back, still dying they said it was distributor. $1200 to replace. I'm a college student I don't have that. My Dad said," he'd pay for it one of my friend's put it in". $400 distributor, it still dies just not as bad.
    So now I'll try the Throttle Position Sensor.
    It revs really high a random times and I have to shut my car off.
    A/C Unit gone $1500 to replace(CA doesn't get that hot)
    2 sets brakes(I need a third)
    Electric driver's seat doesn't move(glad I was driving, it's set for me)
    I'm still grateful I got or I wouldn't have a car at all:)

  • sbaughmansbaughman Posts: 1
    I've had my Cirrus for one year. No major problems untill today. Driving at about 45mph, it made a "klunk" noise and wont shift into drive or overdrive. It also made the speedometer quit working and the little squares around the gear that show what gear you are in on the dash have a square around all of the gears. Usually when the tranny goes, you only have your direct drive gears ( 1st and reverse ) but I have 1st,2nd,and reverse. I'm stumped!
  • What you describe is a failed output speed sensor. Very easy and cheap fix. I have a 99 cirrus and had an input sensor go at 10k miles. Replaced under warranty. The sensor runs around $15-20. It can be replaced in about 5-10 minutes from under the car. It is the outer most sensor on the drivers side. The input sensor is in between the cooling lines and the output is to the right side of that. All you need is a 1" combo wrench.
    Any questions email me.

  • So, on 6/4/07 brought a used 2000 Chrysler Cirrus and a week later the check engine light came on. Of course the place i brought it from didnt want to help me. So since I knew the car need to be fixed I took it to a mechanic. To make a long story short the bill came to $1300. The car needed a new ECN and once they tried to replace it they found that someone tried to put a used/refurbished one in so then i needed another ECN (body module).
    So I thought that was the end of things. My car was in the shop for 30 days. I got it back on July 13 2007 and after 1 day none of the gages didn't work. So, now its back at the mechanic and now they are saying something is wrong with the circuit board. So, I was wondering someone knows the price on this?
  • I have a 95 Cirrus with factory alarm and lost the key less remote, all I have to do is lock all the doors then unlock with the key on the passenger side front door to disarm the alarm. not sure if it works on all factory alarms or not but hard to believe the dealer wouldn't know that, then again they never seem to get anything right.
  • i have a '98 that did most of what you have described, and have found that it is mostlikly a crankshaft position sensor, and or the camshaft sensor... if you have a mulimeter that has frequency detection option use it, probing the wires in need be, to pick up and see if the unit is bad, i think they are arround $70-$120...
  • The dealership misrepresented that car! If you can prove the ECN used, go right back and tell them to make good, or call direct to manufacturer, get a lawyer if you have to, but do not put more money into the car. Go on line and check out recalls, tech bulletins and then go back to dealership. These guys tried to rip you off!
  • i have a 1995 chrysler cirrus and it started stalling at the beginning of spring. it stalls at stop lights, sometimes going under 25mph, and while warming up in my driveway. we took it to the dealers, and they had said that it was the main computer, so we got that fixed. right when we were leaving it stalled, so we brought it back in, they said it was the EGR valve, when we were leaving it stalled again. they had to call the chrysler company 4 times and ask what was wrong with it and they had no idea. they later figured out it was the wiring harness, one of the wires that controlled the manifold pressure was sending wrong messages. but the next day that i had it back it stalled. i know it is not the fuel pump, because we had that checked clueless as to what it is. does anyone know?? :sick:
  • bmodebmode Posts: 1
    To Any Chrysler Cirrus Owners or Dealers,

    I have a 1999 Chrysler Cirrus. I will agree with others in the beginning the car looks great, drive great but the problems with the car is unbareable.

    * I have also had to put sensors in for the car to change gears.
    * For a 1999 that was only a year old with 52,000 miles and one owner...the A/C quit on me within a year...the switch to turn the heat/ac from high to low, now only works on High. So not to burn up during the winter I have to turn the heat to medium warm/cool. Great Heater by the way...but I like AC too you know!

    * I had to get the 2 engine fans replaced

    * And now, the motor is just GONE. Shot..Over Heated...Driving in ATL is not a good experience when white smoke is coming out during rush hour...just after I had gotten the car out 2 months beforehand.

    I am wondering should I purchase a used motor or just give up...the money I am putting into this car, I could use on my other car. But the car is so nice and I want to give it another try; however, I can not continue to put that kind of money into this car. I do know that all cars are going to have its problems even when you keep the regular check up on it...But D*mn...from reading all the post, I am beginning to think the car looks good and that is it...

    What would any of you do...Buy a use motor and run the risk of more problems or the used motor going out? or just sale it?

    One Mechanic just laughed at me and said Chryslers are the last car he would purchase because of its ongoing problems.
  • lee03lee03 Posts: 3

    For four years my husband and I constantly replaced sensors and distributors, main computers and had preventative maintenance work done to keep our '95 Cirrus up and running. We spent thousands of dollars on this car and it drove like a dream up until the morning it just quit running at 3 am while my husband was coming home from work. At 3 am I had to get out of bed, climb in the truck (no easy feat when your 7 1/2 months pregnant), drive 18 miles in 15 degree temperatures to go get my husband before he froze to death. lol

    The only thing I admire more than the way these cars drive, is the way they die. This car can die so smoothly, that at first you don't even realize what's happened. They are great cars if you have a deep billfold. After we had to have the local towing company tow the car for the third time in a year and a half we finally decided to sell it for what we could get.

    If you can get a deal on an engine I'd say buy it, get the car running and then sell it for what you can. That was our plan, up until we couldn't figure out what was wrong with it. We eventually gave up and sold ours to an overconfident shade tree mechanic for $500.00. The man was confident he could fix it and that he was getting a deal. We tried to warn him otherwise. I still get phone calls from people trying to buy the car from me. Apparantly the car is still sitting out in his yard with my number on the windshield because he can't get it running. We took what little we made and put towards an Impala. It's not brand new, but it actually drives and handles better than the Cirrus.

    Its really a shame tho, I loved just about everything about that car....except changing the battery. lol
  • mojammojam Posts: 1
    the car has 137000 miles it has it share of problems
    lately if it rained the night before its hard to start.
    once it starts I need to worm it up for approx 15 to 20 minutes otherwise once i start to drive the car it starts to hesitate and stalls then the check engine light comes on.
    when you do a diagnostic check the code reader shows random cylinder misfire.what could be wrong.
  • It's 4 degrees, windchill -15. And I have no heat. Blower fan works. I can feel a little warmth. The blower direction control seems to be off. When it's set for feet, it blowing through the defroster - Seems like it is off one position. I could live with that if the car got warm.

    Only 290,000 miles on the car. Runs great. Where and what should I check?
  • yoyo4yoyo4 Posts: 2
    Sorry to hear you are having some problems with this vehicle, unfortunately that very common. The EGR can be tested its a shame they replaced it. the cirrus
    is overloaded with technology the car is basically one big circuit board requiring a lot of juice to keep its functioning correctly many times the ground is the problem a bad ground can chorus the computer ECM - PCM to malfunction decreasing the electronic ignition course of a weak spark allowing the car to stall. The solution is to add direct ground to these components they actually sell ground kits on eBay.
    A easy test is to use a jumper cable connected to the negative terminal and then the outer case of ECM - PCM if it does not stall you have found your problem
  • yoyo4yoyo4 Posts: 2
    Transmission went into safe mode will only allow the car to work in first and second
    there is a OUTPUT SPEED SENSOR on the transmission body that made of went bad my best advice is that you need to bring it to a service technician plus there is a recall on this transmission to replace a cable that I believe also contains a sensor that can cause problems
  • I have a 99 cirrus that had an oil change about a month ago. Since then, whenever I idle or when I am at low speeds, the oil pressure light comes on. I checked the oil and it is at full. This has happened before and eventually the the problem just goes away. Otherwise the car runs fine. Has anyone had this problem?
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