Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





2013 and earlier-Subaru Outback Prices Paid and Buying Experience

1105106108110111113

Comments

  • Since Subaru is selling well, I just don't know why dealer is willing sell under invoice.

    IMOP, buy car under MSRP is good, at invoice is super, below invoice is dream come true.
  • I don't believe Subaru is selling THAT well. I live in the northeast and am in the market. As I was researching I emailed a few volume dealers down south in MD and VA, they quoted me around $800 and $900 under invoice without much effort on my part. All it took was a couple emails.. I'm thinking about driving down there this weekend.
  • Since everyone's tax / title stuff is different .. my #s are all before that (saw earlier post that said to do that here) .. Since I am buying out of state.. I pay the dealer their price + doc fees ($138) and the rest I handle with my state when i get back..

    6% sales tax on purchase price + tags/title/registration/inspection

    If I did it locally.. it is $500 more.. which would get me $35 state inspections free for life.... sure.. ill have it for a long time assuming I like it.. but it was the principle of the thing for me.. other guy would do $500 less.. because he wanted to make a great month.. which he has done without me .. so now less of a rush to do the deal by today..
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,461
    IMOP, buy car under MSRP is good, at invoice is super, below invoice is dream come true.

    I generally agree. I always target invoice as my goal. Less than that is great, a little over is acceptable, too.

    The dealers also receive volume and other incentives from the manufacturer that, in many cases, easily offset foregone profit on individual sales because while the sale profit might be higher per car, the number of cars sold will decrease.

    There are some isolated markets, such as mine here in Alaska, where the dealers will sell all their cars at (or even above) MSRP, but most markets are not that isolated, with several dealerships within a 100-200 mile radius. When there's that kind of competition, volume incentives start playing an important role.

    I've purchased three new Subaru vehicles, and none of them have come from my local dealer just because they know they don't have to deal. If I don't buy the car, someone else will meet their price within a few weeks. Instead, I go to Seattle (2,200 miles away) and drive the car home, saving about $2,000-2,500 in the process (and that's including the trip costs!).
  • carteachcarteach Posts: 179
    Has anyone noticed that the menu on the top of Edmunds home page does not show the word FORUM anymore? Anyone know what's up with that? I have to go to old emails and click on links to get to the forums.
  • godeacsgodeacs Posts: 481
    edited November 2012
    Yeah, I noticed it this week BUT there is an easy way to get to the Forums. Just clip on "What's Hot" menu up top and you'll see "Car Forums" on the drop down menu. Same effort as before once you know where to find it.... ;)
  • nassaujurnassaujur Posts: 9
    edited December 2012
    Hi, I got a lot of help from the posts of this forum the past couple weeks.. so I figured I would share my experience a little. I bought a 2013 Outback Premium with all weather + moonroof packages (includes rear vision camera by default) + popular package #2 + some other minor accessories (wheel lock, cargo net, carpet mats, rear seat protector and maybe a few more). This is in the Northeast region btw (tristate area mainly) Took me about a few days of intense emailing back and forth with two dozen dealers. Just following advice given here, I was set on not going into dealerships before agreeing on an OTD price and seeing the buyers order in my email box. My target price was $2000 under invoice before TTL, which some people at the Outback forum seem to believe achievable--in my experience, it was not achievable at all in the northeast region--either my submitted offers were ignored and followed up on after a few days or it was flat out rejected. The last day of the month, I knew I was really growing sick of car shopping and I was determined to get it done that day. I submitted more "reasonable" offers of under $1400 invoice and got some responses back from the dealers 2 hours away. On the last day of the month, a few dealers were willing to come down to about $1000 under invoice--I tried to select volume dealers (based on the # of reviews at dealerrater.com) out of those. On the last couple days, I submitted my offer as an OTD price including all fees and TTL to avoid further haggling at the dealership. Btw, I might have had a hard time of achieving the elusive "$2000 under invoice" because the premium w/ moonroof is not stocked very well and even in volume dealers they carry only about 10-12 cars at most--then again, the dealership I bought from had only one premium in their inventory with the moonroof option. You might have better luck if you're looking for a Premium with just all weather pkg.

    I tried to have these deals matched or beat by other dealers who claim to "beat any deals by $300" (Subaru in Ramsey), but they all abruptly stopped communicating with me. I figured this would be as low as it could go. The dealer and I agreed on a price of $28800 OTD (including all fees, 7% NJ tax) and they were pretty straight forward in sending me the buyers order via email. Most dealerships won't even give you a solid number via email fearing competition--which made the whole process more frustrating. I emailed a couple of volume dealers in VA and Maryland and they straight out quoted me about $1500 under invoice--but I didn't want to drive six hours, I probably would have to save another $500 but I have a busy schedule ahead of me this weekend. So, down south where there is less snow, Subaru seems to be not as popular and dealers are much more willing to give good deals.

    Anyway, with the buyers order in hand and all the details worked out (I even asked if I would qualify for the promotional APR rate of 0.9%--the sales person told me I would easily--anybody with 700 or higher should be no problem, and I have credit score of mid-700.) Walking into the dealership, I hoped to be out and driving the new car in 20-30 minutes. Turns out they had a whole team of guys waiting to intimidate me into accepting their 4.9% offer, if that. I realized how these games are played and I was not going to accept their APR. Remember I drove 1.5 hours to get to this dealership and it was two hours before they were about to close on the last day of the month. In order to convince me I should accept their 4.9% financing offer ("which is determined by the bank, not themselves", they told me many things including "first-time buyers never qualify for these and can sometimes get 10% or higher rates but we were able to work out great deals, you never took out such a big loan in your life previously etc etc" --I almost believed them, too. But I remembered what I learned on the internet and called their BS--I told them I was walking away because this is a deal breaker. They were visibly set back by my statement and even the finance dept guy who supposedly has nothing to do with sales and just punching the numbers seemed to be taken aback. I was more and more convinced it was BS and I shouldn't accept their offer. I really needed to buy the car that day and it made me so angry they made me drive 1.5 hours to play a few more games. So, I simply walked away. About two minutes later, the manager called me back into the dealership offering me the 0.9% rate. I got back in the dealership and they show me how I am a "tier 3" buyer but the manager was really able to call the bank to bump me up to "tier 1" etc showing me all the documents they created--I didn't believe none of their remarks.. at this point, they completely lost my trust and I felt like I was getting even cheated by the 0.9% offer as I saw some other dealerships offering 0% financing on the new Outbacks. I decided to make them come down in rate to 0% and but they wouldn't even budge. Anyway, I walked out one more time and this time they didn't call me back so I knew I was getting a good deal (the one I originally knew I was getting anyway)--plus the dealer was closing in a few hours and I didn't want to have to drag it on for another week. I came back in, signed the papers and now I'm a happy Outback owner! :) The moral of the story I guess is that if your credit is good enough, you should never settle for anything less than the promotional rate promised by the manufacturer.

    That was a long post. Hope someone can benefit from this experience--esp. first time car buyers like myself.

    tl;dr Paid $28800 OTD (all fees + 7% tax) on a 2013 Outback Premium moonroof + all-weather pkg, which is about $1000-$1100 under invoice in the NJ / PA / CT / NY region. Negotiated the APR to the promotional rate.
  • Unbelievable deal! Congratulations!

    Which dealer did you get the deal? I want to get exact the same model and options, if you have time to list them! Thanks!
  • Beyer Subaru in VA offered the best quote at $25959 before TTL and probably their doc fee. Might come down a few hundred more if you haggle.

    Colonial VW Subaru & Subaru in Cherry Hill in PA , they quoted me similar prices $28800~ $29000. Ended up buying it at Colonial in PA because Cherry Hill was closing too early and wanted $500 more for the color of my choice for essentially the same vehicle--the manager did reach out to me to make the deal work later, but it was too late.

    Hope that helps.
  • What is the TTL?
  • longo2longo2 Posts: 347
    edited December 2012
    OK then, this is an offer on a "Used" 2012 Outback Limited, 4 cyl, CVT leather, back up camera, roof, and a few other odds and ends. It has been a company courtesy vehicle and has about 11,000 miles on it.

    They want $26,800 and I offered $25,000. We are at $25,500 and I am stalling.

    Any thoughts?
  • FWIW,

    Edmunds TMV in my zip code in Silver w/ those options (I just picked a color) is right in that range ... 25,276 for private party sale, 26,686 for dealer retail.
  • samyjsamyj Posts: 2
    I also live in NE (CT). Could you please share some of your preferred volume dealers in MD and VA? Or the actual dealer you went with? Thank you.
  • tax, title, and license.
  • Beyer Subaru in Virginia.

    Around the tristate area, the dealers in Cherry Hill and Colonial VW Subaru near Philly had the best quotes. Took me about 6-7 emails with each of them to get to that pricing on the last day of the month.
  • longo2longo2 Posts: 347
    If my offer is almost dead on the TMV and they countered and didn't mention anything else, that worries me.

    Tomorrow I will send of another e-mail to the dealership and find out what else is up their sleeve on their counter offer....doc fees, it's Monday fees, we are doing you such a favor fees, we are your new best friends fees, etc.
  • Option package 4: moonroof, rear vision, auto dimming rearview mirror w/Homelink, plus these accessories: seat back protector, bumper cover, splash guards, body side moldings, puddle lights, cargo net rear, cargo net side, all weather mats

    Acc to purchase agreement, MSRP was 32,360, price paid (including freight, but not TTL (tax, title, license) was 28,886.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Isn't that a mid 30s car new, nowadays?

    Don't lose the deal over a couple hundred bucks.

    You don't have to tell anyone you didn't buy new. It'll be our little secret. ;)
  • jeykjeyk Posts: 2
    2013 2.5i Premium CVT AWP PZEV

    Options: AWP (headed f seats/side mirrors, windshield wiper deicer), auto-dim mirror/comp/homelink, rear bumper cover, rear seat back protector, splash guards, [all weather mats not included in MSRP, but negotiated for them to be included gratis]

    MSRP 28,190 (again, not inclusive of AWM)

    $25,398.50 + TTL + $150 doc fee
  • What dealership did you use? (love your nickname, btw)
  • Ultimately we purchased the vehicle from Cascade Subaru in Cuyahoga Falls, but they price matched an offer we put together at Ganley Subaru of Wickliffe. I would have purchased from Ganley Wickliffe except theyre easily 45 mins from home, while Cascade is only about 5 mins away. All things being equal, My wife preferred the closer dealer. They do provide free car washes on Saturdays, but thats about the only 'perk' offered. Jamie McCauley was a knowledgeable, no pressure, laid back salesman, essentially enabling the vehicle to sell itself. The vehicle was brought in from Columbus, so I cant help but wonder if I could have gotten a slightly better deal from someone else who had the model w the options on the lot.

    In any event, the transaction went very smoothly and we didnt even get the hard sell on the aftermarket warranties from the Finance manager. Maybe it was because we signed the papers at 9pm last night! Ps: being close to Lake Erie, I do a bit of walleye fishing, hence the screen name. Good luck.
  • What is your MRSP? Thanks.
  • Thanks for the info on your deal. It just so happens that one of the best internet offers I've had on a limited with the special appearance package (which includes moonroof and nav) also came from Cascade. Only issue - and not a huge one - is that I'm in Detroit so would need to do a little road trip.
    FYI, I'm a serious fisherman myself. My license plate is IF1SH.
  • longo2longo2 Posts: 347
    edited December 2012
    I've been lurking here watching the Subie deals coming and going and would like to know what you guys think of the advantages of buying a 2013 vrs a 2012..all things being equal.

    I am really pleased that the '13 Subarus have finally gotten away from those dreadful black dashboards and steering wheels that always come the same no matter what interior you order, (or have they)

    Also noticed that some owners with the older Subaru CVT's are demonstrating it's short comings...(see You Tube)

    There are some pretty tempting 2012 OB limited deals out there right now, but I have heard that there have been some needed changes to the 2013's..just don't know if they are worth the extra 5 to 8 thousand.

    Any thoughts...?

    Never owned a Subaru but have had the idea of owning one before I'm being wheeled around in a chair.
  • easypareasypar ColoradoPosts: 186
    Not sure that there's $5-$8K difference available, although I'm in Colorado so no '12s left on lots here AFAIK, unless you're talking about used. We've got a '10 Legacy and I can tell you that we've neither had nor heard of any CVT problems with any of our friends.

    The biggest difference we've seen between the '10 and our '13 Outback is the seats, WAY BETTER driver's side comfort, and the handling. At first I thought it might just be the extra wheelbase on the Outback but I've since driven a new Legacy, and drove a friend's '11 Outbac and I can tell you there is a vast improvement in the new ones.

    That said I guess it all depends on what items matter to you and what price you put on them.

    Good luck with your search.

    easypar
  • longo2longo2 Posts: 347
    edited December 2012
    Thanks for the info on the new 013's..that much better ride is very important to us.
    We drive 1800 miles to AZ a couple of times a year over some very tricky conditions in the late fall and early spring.
    600 miles a day and that's lot of changing conditions over a mt. pass, 4 ups and overs the Continental divide, so really hoping the 2013 Subaru Outback will fill the bill.

    BTW here's a link to what I mentioned about the CVT performance..might be better now, this was a 2010..

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=epB9BiOX5hs
  • seanuseanu Posts: 7
    Saw a few people asking about 2012 vs 2013 outback differences... here are a few :

    Updated CVT (probably for noise and efficiency)
    Uses the 2.5 FB engine (Not brand new, used in Forester since 2011)
    Improved body/suspension stiffness to reduce roll (springs and sway bar changes)
    New material used on cloth seats
    Folding side mirrors have returned

    Exterior : new front bumper/grill/foglight design, Aluminum wheel design changed, roof rack now has some adjustability in the rail spacing.

    The FB engine is DOHC with timing chain instead of belt. Previous EJ engine required changing the timing belt at 105k/105months . Uses 0W20 synthetic oil with 7500 mile change interval.

    Overall the 2013 seems to be a pretty big "tweak" year. Much of it was probably done to address the complaints from the earlier years about steering shake and vibrations. The engine change provides a modest torque/hp/mileage boost and probably was partly due to consolidating production & improved emissions.
  • I bought my first Subie... a 2012 Limited Outback and I purchased it when the 2013s and the 2012s were on the lot. There are a couple of differences - seat material, timing chain (instead of belt), synthetic oil, and 1 mpg better in the city. I live in Colorado and I actually take a lot of road trips so seat comfort is a must. I would say the first 5 days around the city were a bit uncomfortable but once I broke the seat in and adjusted the lumbar support I love this car. My car's MSRP 30465 and I got it for about 26135 (with them adding splash molding, rear bumper cover, all weather kit, autodimming mirror with Homelink, all weather mats). I didn't like the 2013 when I got into it. I think my heart was already set on a 2012. I don't think the ride is that different either. As for my CVT it kicks butt - I love the paddle shifters and it rocks in the mountains (2.5 is what I have). Colorado has had little snow so handling snow is yet to be determined but for the city its perfect thus far. As for the extra 5 - 8k. A timing chain is supposed to never be changed which I think is at the most a 1k service and your oil changes are a little higher in a 2013 because its synthetic. Depending on all the bells and whistles you are wanting depends on the difference between a 2012 and 2013. I think when you bring out a newer model changes are always minor and people tend to believe they must be better since it is newer. I totally disagree with that theory. If you plan to keep the car for over 5 years its a wash since in 3 years the car will be outdated with its safety equipment and extras. If I had to do it all over again I would by the same car and get the rearview camera instead of adding it after market. Price was great, purchase was simple, and life is good plus the dog I think loves it more than me. :)
  • longo2longo2 Posts: 347
    edited December 2012
    Sounds like personal preferences more than a lot of real nuts and bolts changes...I do like the idea of the timing chain on the '13's tho. Now Subaru is confusing us with more changes in the "2014" model! ( I really don't like the new design...looks to me like someone built it from left over odds and ends in their garage.)

    The changes made to the Subaru CVT seem a bit of a mystery, all I know is I hate the one I have in our Nissan Versa. Sounds more like a runaway Mixmaster than a car.

    Best drive train I have driven is our VW Jetta TDI with the DSG (direct shift gearbox)set up, It performs like a manual but does it on its own without any fuss and never misses a shift.
  • easypareasypar ColoradoPosts: 186
    Serenity, you're correct that a lot of the difference is small, but we still opted for the 2013. Your experience with the seats sounds like mine when I first bought our 2010 Legacy. I could not drive more than 90 minutes but that I would be darn near unable to walk when I stopped. I finally bought one of those little "half-round" foam pads and it's worked well.

    We still have the Legacy and I just leave that pad in it. A week after we bought the OB we headed back to Cinainnati for a week and about 3000 miles. I never used the pad and the car felt more "road-worthy" in all conditions.

    OT; I'm heading to Vail early tomorrow morning so I'll get my first experience with the OB (if my wife allows me to take it). I've logged a lot of miles on the Legacy in ski country and have always felt very comforatable. I had seen the paddle shifters on cars for years and always thought they were a bit gimmicky, but driving down slope on mountain roads really shows their value when you can downshift and watch the tach simultaneously.

    Congratulations on your purchase.

    easypar
Sign In or Register to comment.