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MINI Cooper Prices Paid and Buying Experience

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Comments

  • blueguydotcomblueguydotcom Posts: 6,257
    It's a blast. We financed it - save for the TTL which i paid. As Ky pointed out to me, the value of used minis is so high that I will be able to part with it and end up ahead. Plus I won't feel badly about modding it!
  • jaxs1jaxs1 Posts: 2,697
    Yes, dealers still have 2006 models on their lots that they want to move, so no discounts on 2007s.
    They still normally sell for MSRP anyway. Most dealers gouge and sell over MSRP to people too desperate to walk away and look elsewhere.

    As long as you don't go crazy with options and end up with a $30K Cooper or $34K Cooper S, you will get alot of your money back at resale.

    I wonder what kind of real world resale value people have when they have a fully loaded model and try to sell in a couple years? I think many buyers would just buy a new one with less options instead of paying over $25K-30K for a loaded 2 year old Mini with nav and all the expensive options.
  • plektoplekto Posts: 3,738
    Simple as that. The new models are going to drop the "elite" status from the first generation quickly - maybe in a year or so. Expect a massive price adjustment on them. The new models will hardly depreciate like the originals did, by comparison. And the new models are quite honestly, nicer, more polished version of the original. Shoot, moving the battery to under the hood/bonnet is a major plus. The lights are better. The dash is better. The back seat isn't as cramped. The center console doesn't look odd - and the guages aren't always ha;f hidden by the steering wheel. Tons of small things that add up to a world-class experience.
  • blueguydotcomblueguydotcom Posts: 6,257
    It is quite a change. From the power to the way the car uses RFTs, it's an entirely different vehicle. Everyone so far is shocked by how zippy the car is, yet composed and relaxed at 80-90, etc.
  • subie321subie321 Posts: 2
    It is nice how the mini will hold onto it's resale value. What are some of the option and accessories that you can't live without or wish you had gotten? Are the front and rear foglights able to be installed as a DIY modification? Thanks for the help.
  • bingo883bingo883 Posts: 9
    Although the new one is better in most dept. (especially in the handling dept.) but the look on the original is much more interesting, more fun, more compact, more slim, more cute, more unique, more MINI!!!!
    The new one feels more like a .... er.... CAR....(if you know what I mean!?!?) That's how I see it.
    By the way, I don't have either model sitting in my garage.
  • blueguydotcomblueguydotcom Posts: 6,257
    LSD
    Comfort Access

    I despise having to fish for my keys - I had an 06 330i with Comfort Access and you get used to it really fast.

    LSD goes without saying.
  • plektoplekto Posts: 3,738
    First off, wheels are moot - the car doesn't generate enough torque to even require the stock tires it has, let alone 17-18 inchers. So opt for the stock tires and if you really want rims, get them later for less money. Standard tires are also better riding and less expensive. Get performance in any case - they work better in the rain than all-seasons(which only help in snow and such, but the car really needs SNOW TIRES if you drive it in snow all the time)

    Here goes - my list:
    first off, get the S. Worth every penny. And let's face it - everyone wants a used S and not he standard model as well.(true with most cars - always get the upper-end engine if you buy new).

    - I like dark colors. I would personally opt for dark blue with all of the chrome exterior bits for a few hundred more. I also like the clear rear lenses, which is how they look n Europe.(350 total)

    - No packages. No sunroof. It kills the clean looks of the car and makes it into an oven inside, plus it's so far back that you can't see up and out of it while driving unless your seat is so far back that you have no rear seat. Get the items separately.

    - Sport suspension, DSC, limited slip.
    - Bridge Spoke wheels(look better, no extra money)
    - Rear fog light(amazed this isn't standard in the U.S. yet)
    (fog light are std - and the xenon aren't any better than the regular lights(as opposed to HID) - and they look less attractive - not worth $550 in any case)
    - Arm rest
    - Cloth seats. Leatherette is Vinyl and hot as hell in the summer.
    - Interior trim is your choice - I'd opt for chrome lined interior(keep it simple) ($200) and that's it.
    - A/C - $300 - much better deal than getting a package
    - I don't think ANY of the instrument options are good for the money. Pass entirely.(the remote access is nice, but $500 is way too much)
    - Multi-function wheel is nice. Ignore the "do you want his package - you save roughly $500 this way by not getting the terrarium roof option.
    - Stock audio. Upgrade later yourself with a few good Alpine speakers instead.(cabin is so small 4 speakers is more than enough)
    $25,500 for a S with all of the necessary goodies and no fluff. This includes $1500 in suspension and handling options.

    Accessories I like:
    Chrome Exhaust(matches the rest of the chrome nicely)
    Mud flaps are nice.
    Glovebox organizer.
    Map Light
    Rubber Floor Mats - front, rear, and boot. ($134) - Well worth it, IMO, to protect the carpet.
    Bumper Protector.

    Accessories I don't like:
    Driving lights are nice, but pass - $550 is more than you'll ever need to install some Hela driving lights if you want - and they'll look and work better as well)

    Invisishield and so on - just do it yourself. Look online for Novus. They make plastic polishes that keep your plastic looking good as new - and lots cheaper too.

    ****
    Extras/JCW - this is where your miserly approach pays off. :)

    JCW Strut Brace - nice - stiffens it up a lot.
    JCW Drilled Rotors - you can never have too good brakes. I'd rather have these two options than bigger wheels anyday.

    *note* the audio jack is available but isn't listed - it's not too pricey, though.

    I get $26,419 like this, or $25,394 with no chrome and a basic color like white. Outfitted this way, it's a superb performer AND it has maximum resale value, being that it has all of the performance options and little or none of the bling.(appeals to the performance minded enthusiast)

    The non-s runs about $22-23K after you add in all of the packages and such to make it look like this, so the S is a no-brainer.
  • blueguydotcomblueguydotcom Posts: 6,257
    Unfortunately, mine came with PDC (why anyone would need PDC on a car this size is beyond me).

    Otherwise:

    Sport Package (can't live without xenons) - sadly it came with 17 inch RFTs. They're not bad actually. i was surprised after my experience with the BMW RFTs last year. Still a swap will come.
    Sport suspension
    Leatherette - black/gray (it never gets that hot here)
    Brushed Alloy trim
    Cold Weather Package - my fiancee loves this as it includes heated seats
    Anthracite headliner (missed that from my 2003 330i)
    PDC (weird)
    Lightning Blue (dark blue)
    White roof/mirror caps

    I totally want the JCW strut brace. I told my fiancee if I haven't bought it by my B-day, easy gift.

    Still wish it had the CA and LSD though. :( But it's soooo much fun, I can live with it as is. And CA won't add to resale anyway.
  • martijnhmartijnh Posts: 24
    That's as good of a summary as I have ever seen re: the MINI options. I would say that some of the choices depend on how you plan to drive the MINI and where you live, but I totally agree with your assessment. Actually, I pretty much purchase my S with the same guidelines. I did get the sunroof, however, and I really like it.

    Motor on!!! :shades:
  • ticatica Posts: 64
    also what is all that JCW stuff?
  • blueguydotcomblueguydotcom Posts: 6,257
    John Cooper Works - formerly an independent modder of Coopers, they're now a subsidiary owned by BMW/Mini.

    And I was just noticing today that I need to buy mudflaps too. Been awhile since i've had a FWD car...
  • cct1cct1 Posts: 221
    A couple of things on the JCW stuff...

    I have the JCW suspension, Engine kit, and brakes--and I love them.

    The JCW strut brace is unnecessary unless you're getting the convertible; its more eye candy than anything else on the Cooper or S, and there are other places to put your money that will significantly improve your performance. Its benefit is negligible to nonexistent on the Cooper or S as they are plenty stiff already. You're better off with M7 strut tower braces (to prevent strut tower mushrooming) than the JCW strut brace, which will not prevent mushrooming. Hopefully, however, on the 2007's the issue with strut tower mushrooming will be a thing of the past.

    As for the JCW brakes, make sure you're not getting the racing brakes--I'll have to check out the new configurator; I have the older JCW brakes, which aren't drilled rotors (In fact, the old JCW brakes are now the standard brakes). If the brakes are sealed, they're fine for everyday use. If they're not sealed, they're really only reasonable for the track. But if you're getting the JCW brakes from the dealer, they should be the street brakes rather than the racing brakes anyway (they'll still be good for the track, but also fine for everyday driving).

    I agree with you 100% on the rest of your options--brakes make a huge difference, and any upgrade is worth it. The other huge upgrade is tires/lightweight rims (arguable the most important upgrade of all), but that opens a whole other can of worms.
  • Hi-

    My girlfriend is looking to order a 2007 Cooper and was quoted MSRP by our local dealer. From reading these forums I told her that she probably isn't going to get below that on a car she orders but it never hurts to try...I have a few questions and I was hoping someone on here might know the answers...

    1. The dealer is charging installation for the accessories and the iPod adaptor is especially expensive. Has anyone had any luck getting the dealer to drop the installation fees when ordering a car? For us, it's a hard mental hurtle to get past just to pay MSRP (I've never payed MSRP on any car), much less pay for installation on accessories on top of that...

    2. There is some sort of pre-delivery fee...I know we have to pay the $650 destination fee but what is the pre-delivery fee? (Sorry we've never ordered a car...)

    3. On the mud flaps, have any of you seen them on the car? The dealer tried to talk her out of them. He said he didn't like the way they looked and they didn't work well anyway...It seems to me that he is just trying to get her to remove the accessories rather than cut her a deal on them. Thanks in advance for any comments you have.

    BTW, here are the options she is looking at:

    (Let me know if you think any of them are not worth it...)

    Oxygen Blue
    White Roof/Mirrors
    White Bonnet Stripes

    Convenience Package
    Front Fog Lamps
    6-Speed Manual
    16" Bridge-Spoke w/ All Season Tires
    Sport Seats
    Automatic AC
    Lounge Leather: Carbon Black
    Leather Sport Wheel w/Multifunction
    10-Speaker. Hi-Fi Sound System
    Interior Surface Brushed Alloy

    accessories

    iPod Adaptor
    Chrome Gas Filler Cap
    Black Rubber Floor Mats (Front, Back, Boot)
    Mud Flaps?
  • cct1cct1 Posts: 221
    1. In short, the answer is yes. You'll have a hard time getting below MSRP, but its reasonable to try to get the ipod instillation and the mats thrown in for free.

    2. If the pre-delivery fee is a dealer prep fee, the answer is no, you shouldn't have to pay that. That is a gouge, and you shouldn't have to pay it. There are many Mini dealers who don't charge a pre-delivery fee; if its exorbitant, you may want to look at another dealer.

    3. Mud flaps: Your dealer was right. Forget the mudflaps. They look out of place on a Mini, and potentially create more problems than they solve.

    Good Luck!!
  • plektoplekto Posts: 3,738
    I don't have a problem with rims so much as have you seen the insane prices they gouge for alloy rims? You can get some good 16 inch customs if you want for a fraction of the cost.

    I don't know what JCW/aftermarket options there will be, but the idea of mine was to get a basic box with a few options, and the handling and so on upgraded, and then spend the extra money on aftermarket stuff to beef up the brakes, and other things. Bigger anti-swaybar might be nice, for instance, or better calipers or...

    Of course, what I really want for this is a Tweel. Imagine a tire that weighs 20-30lbs, including the rim. Looks really cool, too.
  • kali4niakali4nia Posts: 4
    I just order my 2007 MINI Cooper S a week ago. Before I decided to buy the car, I called and visited 5 different dealers around my area. No lucks at all of getting below the MSRP. I got dealers trying to add $4000 on top of MSRP. The best offer I got out of the five is MSRP w/ free carpet floor mats (4 pieces set).

    The destination fee is automatic added to the price of my car, which is $650. I think all dealers do this.

    I haven't received my car yet, not until the end of May. But I think as far as for mud flaps, they don't look that good on a MINI.

    I tried my best to eliminate everything that I don't need and this is what I have for my car:

    Cooper S
    Pure Silver Metallic
    Grey/Carbon Black Leatherette
    Steptronic automatic transmission
    Black bonnet strips
    Sports leather steering wheel
    16'' alloy wheels, bridge spoke
    Roof and mirror caps in black
    Foglights
    Rear fog lights
    Mini HiFi sound system
    iPod Adaptor

    Most of the options come standard for Cooper S version...

    I think you should upgrade to the S version and cut down options that you don't really need. Cooper S is more fun to drive due to it turbo engine w/ 172hp...

    I can't wait to get my hand on my MINI and do share when you get yours...
  • cct1cct1 Posts: 221
    I agree with you that the OEM rims are way marked up--but you can get decent lightweight rims aftermarket relatively easily; a few manufacturers even cater to the Mini's funky offset and bolt pattern so no spacers are needed. If its performance you're after, lightweight rims and nonrunflat tires will give a huge bang for the buck. All the OEM offerings are very heavy (although I love the R90's, but I'm going to get a lighter 16 inch rim that'll fit over my brakes for the track).

    I may eventually go with a bigger adjustable swaybar too.
  • ticatica Posts: 64
    Hi
    I've been going back and forth for past year about buying a Mini. A friend of mine has a 5-yr old Saturn mini station wagon with 55,000 miles that he has been telling me--for a year--that he'll give me for $2000ish. He has 3 kids plus nany and wife and they need a minivan or somesuch. Problem is, he is also trying to move houses, change kidsschools and they are both busy with kids/works--and they both have international driver's licenses and have to go retake the NY driver's test, etc. So I've already been waiting a year for him to hand over the car--he PROMISISES he will, even by the summer--but I'm not so sure it will really pan out.

    I don't want the Saturn but obviously its like a free car and even though I"m having Mini fantasies I have to do what's fiscally smart!

    HOWEVER, I do need a car by early June since I'll be housesitting a few days a week in Connecticut...and I'm not sure if he's going to get his act together by then and if he doens't then I will have to have another car alternative--and that will probably mean just stumpoing for a Mini.

    I was just looking at Mini websites in the area and saw this Long Island one in Freeport offering this deal that looks like a really nice option.

    But seeing as I know ABSOLUTELY NOTHING about cars and buying or leasing them, I'm not sure if there isn't something that I'm majorly missing.

    When I've been thinking about buying one I'd sort of thought that leasing for 3 years made no sense because you pay so much at the end and you don't own it. I don't really care if I drive an old car so once I buy it I woulnd't just trade in for a new model just for the heck of it. So if I was going to be paying out for 3 years, it would make more sense to just buy, I think.

    But then I saw this:

    _______
    Is This The Best Lease Ever? Call us let us know your opinion!
    The One Year Lease Special is back!
    The all new 2007 MINI Cooper
    is available to well qualified lesees with;
    NO Bank Fee !
    No Security Deposit!
    Starting at as little as $99 per month with only $1,799 down
    $1898 due at inception, plus taxes, registration and title fees
    for a 2007 MINI Cooper, MSRP $18,700. Order yours today!
    10,000 mile per year lease. lesee responsible for excess wear and tear, taxes, insurance, registration and title fees. available to well qualified lesee's through MINI Financial Services. Some restrictions may apply,call for details. Must be approved by 4/30/2007 and delivered by 5/31/07
    Hassel MINI___________

    I called and spoke to the sales guy and he said--

    A mini I would want would be roughly--TO BUY--$21,000 ish
    (18,700 plus automatic 1300 plus a few options)

    TO LEASE
    The 1-year lease is $2300 down payment (includes the down payment plus taxes, title, regis and first month)
    then 11 months at $130ish--so $1400 for year

    So the total year's leasing would cost around $3700 or 300/month.
    Not bad to rent a brand new car (and not having to do it for 3 years like those usual leases)

    THEN TO BUY LATER
    then if I wanted to buy it after a year it would be the 'residual value' (whatever that is): $17, 800--

    HUH?
    ...and this is where it doesn't make sense to me--so if I leased for a year, then bought it, it would be around the same price 17,800+3700= 21,000ish as if I had just bought it straight out WITHOUT leasing it for a year...? Does that make sense for the dealer?....it doesn't seem like they make EXTRA money from leasing it that way? But the sales guy said that was the case.

    Anyway, so it sounds like a win-win no comittment deal. And I could give it back after a year if I move out of NYC and want a bigger car or I could just buy it and not have lost anything...(other than the free freind's car, but then it probably would've started to break down by then anyway!)

    anyway this seems to be such a good deal I'm wondering if I'm being dumb about something...?
    _______

    anyway, what do experienced car buyers/owners/leasers think?
    also, no one answered my mud flap question--what do they do? keep the mud off your tires? Is that really necessary if you make a point not to drive in the wet dirt?

    thanks!
  • plektoplekto Posts: 3,738
    Welcome to Mini. The car depreciates almost not at all the first couple of years, so you can find silly deals like this from time to time.

    If it's real, it's a hell of a deal. Just be sure to buy it when your'e done with the lease, as you can resell it for $18-20K at a moment's notice(actually make a lot of your money back).

    Go onto autotrader or cars.com and loko at the silly prices for 2 year old models. Something like 2-3K less than new, if that. Nothing I know of depreciates $1000 a year.

    Skip the automatic, though. In a base model, the manual is more desireable for resale, since it's harder to find(fewer people will call, but the offers will be higher as a percentage of your initial cost.

    Man I wish I had this deal out here in CA.
  • Hi there - I'm trying to sell my 03 Cooper S. It's Electric Blue with White roof and white racing stripes. Sunroof, Cold weather package, ipod hookup, black leatherette and sport package, rubber floor mats, and all the standard options (A/C, power windows/mirrors, cruise control, steering wheel audio controls, DSC, Airbags, etc.)
    It has 50,000 miles on it, Avon Performance Tyres (non-run flats with 16k on them, lots of life left) that handle great, mechanically the car is great - all service done at dealer. Interior/Exterior is also in good condition. I'm looking for someone who wants to have as much fun driving this car as I have had!!
    For some reason I haven't had much interest, I don't know if it's the area (Balt/DC) or the season (winter) or ...

    If you are interested send me an email message. I've been asking $17995 but am open to offers.
    Thanks!
  • margiemdmargiemd Posts: 1
    Hi, we might be interested in your car -- what is your email address?
  • alexstjoalexstjo Posts: 3
    Hi

    can anyone tell me which year to go with for a used purchase?

    I was looking at the 04 to the 07 (if I can find one). I don't know when any changes where made so I have no idea which model might have better features.

    thanks
  • best to stay away from the 2002, in my opinion, as things were still getting worked out and there were some problems. Also probably the 2003s. I would look at 2004s to 2006s. The 2007 is a new production (and engine) so again, there may be some initial problems.

    The 2006 would be your best bet as that was when most problems had been worked out, but finding a used one might be tough. You can check the cars for sales area here or on North American Motoring. Although there might be discounts on 2006s that dealers still have on the lot and are trying to clear... although the discounts won't be much. Also, I think it would probably be best to stay way from the Cooper CVT (automatic) as I've read they have had a lot of problems. The 2007 doesn't use the CVT anymore from what I understand.
  • cct1cct1 Posts: 221
    I'd definitely stay away from the CVT. If you're after an automatic, the 2007 is the way to go.

    If you're after a used Mini Cooper or S stick, you'll want a 2005 or 2006 if you go used--all the bugs are worked out of these, this is also when the gear ratios were changed; it significantly improved the drivability of the car. You may still find one under warranty.

    Personally, I'd wait until 2008 at the earliest on the new Mini's--the 2007 is entirely new--every body panel, mechanical part, etc. And there have been some significant problems--not unexpected--given that the 2007 is a completely different car from the 2006. The only thing that is remotely the same is the look.
  • youre in california right? which dealers did you visit and who did you get that final deal from?
  • alexstjoalexstjo Posts: 3
    what are the issues with the CVT? I am planning on purchaseing a automatic (wife can't do a stick!)
  • cct1cct1 Posts: 221
    First of all, there have been many transmission problems with the CVT. The other issue with the CVT is its a dog--its absolutely awful! It takes the Mini, which is otherwise a quick, spry car and makes it so sluggish that it loses much of the fun of driving it. In my opinion, its actually a bit dangerous--it accelerates so slowly, its really a bit dangerous trying to accelerate uphill on a busy road with a fairly high speed limit. I have had a CVT for a day on two seperate occasions (as a loaner), and as much as I love the Mini, the CVT is pretty much looks without the performance.

    This is part of the reason that Mini did away with the CVT on the 2007's--so although for the Mini S, I prefer the 2006, if I was getting an automatic base Cooper, I'd definitely, beyond a doubt, get a 2007. The 2007 is a traditional automatic, hopefully will have less issues with the transmission than the CVT, and performs significantly better than the CVT. Also, from a deprecitation standpoint, I think the CVT will be very, very difficult to sell in a few years; the new automatic on the other hand should depreciate very, very slowly in comparison.
  • Thanks for all the replies on my questions. My girlfriend just ordered her Mini from South BMW in Miami. We emailed all the sales managers in the state and got the lowest price from them. Here is what she ended up ordering:

    2007 Cooper
    Oxygen Blue
    White Roof/Mirrors
    White Bonnet Stripes
    Front Fog Lamps
    6-Speed Manual
    16" Bridge-Spoke w/ All Season Tires
    Sport Seats
    Punch Leather: Carbon Black
    Leather Sport Wheel w/Multifunction
    10-Speaker. Hi-Fi Sound System
    iPod Adaptor

    The sale price for this before taxes and title was $22,185 including the iPod adaptor. We ended up saving over $1000 because the dealer removed the $499 dealer fee, and didn't charge the $650 destination fee. He also threw in free mats and only charged $385 on the iPod adaptor, which is really low compared to some other dealers. Also, most other dealers have a $1000 deposit and this one only charged a $500 deposit.

    We live in Tampa and our local dealer in Palm Harbor has been calling for weeks since we did a test drive. When we told him that we were going to order from another dealer because they were so much less expensive, he made sure to tell us that they wouldn't be able to offer us a loaner car if we get the car serviced there. I'm not sure if this was supposed to earn our business but we made it pretty clear that all he had to do was match the price in Miami and we would order from him. Even with the discounts and freebees the Miami dealer still made a handy profit on our sale. I just don't get why the local dealer wouldn't budge. Oh well, we are very excited to drive back down for the delivery. It should be fun to motor over to South Beach for a Mojito when it comes in! For anyone looking to buy a Mini who doesn't mind driving a little, I highly recommend emailing all the dealers around you as we found a large variation in the prices we were quoted. Also, when negotiating don't be afraid to let them know that you are willing to go to another dealer. Some won't budge but some will. Good luck and happy motoring!
  • ticatica Posts: 64
    thanks for this interesting info.
    I'm curious though, I thought all the MINIs were supposed to offer basically the same prices since the options all are established prices...so what is that the Miami dealer just knocked off the stuff you listed above, or did you find a wide variation with all dealers?

    I found a place here in NY that is doing a 1 year lease and I think I"m going to do that but I'm not sure that I can get any other places to offer that, although I guess it's worth a try.

    did you figure out all your options that you wanted first and then email that list to each dealer?

    what is the deposit for if you're buying it?

    I've called several mini dealers and always find that the sales people never call me again--which seems odd becuase when I was going to buy my mother a Ford and a Staurn a few years ago I was bombarded with these guys pestering me. So it's interesing that you had the Palm Harbor dealer calling you...
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