Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





2013 and Earlier - Jeep Cherokee (All) Prices Paid and Buying Experience

12324252729

Comments

  • dclivedclive Posts: 35
    Please post your price paid without sales tax, because that varies by state. All $$s posted should exclude variables that you / dealer cannot control (like tax).
  • A 72 month lease? Yikes!

    Any idea what your credit scores were? Been trying to track down Ally's lease requirements for their top tier leases.
  • Found a brand new 2012 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4.

    Additional Options:
    Customer Preferred Package 26E
    Uconnect(R) Voice Command with Bluetooth(R) $ 495
    SiriusXM Satellite Radio w/ 1-Yr Radio Subscription
    MSRP: $30,415

    Selling Price: $25,415

    Is this deal too good to walk away from? Most new Grand Cherokees have $5k off the sticker price.
  • I think that is a hell of a deal. This is the deal i just got.

    2012 Grand Cherokee Laredo 2x4 $26995
    Customer Preferred Package 26E $2000
    Uconnect(R) Voice Command with Bluetooth(R) $ 410
    SiriusXM Satellite Radio w/ 1-Yr Radio Subscription

    $30330
    Preferred Price (invoice -1%) $28700
    -2000 in incentives $26700
    2100 for tax title license fees $28800
    0 down
    72mo@ 3.9% 450/mo

    hopes this helps
  • ringwoodringwood Posts: 1
    can you share the name of the dealer? Thank you!
  • newt5newt5 Posts: 15
    This is the deal i just got in Colorado

    2012 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4 - $28,555
    Security and Convenience Group - $995
    Laredo E Group - $2000
    Trailer Tow Group - $595
    All Weather Capability Group - $695
    Power Sunroof - $850

    $35,855

    $1000 Chrysler rebate = $34,855

    I talked them down to:

    $31,293
  • alextroyalextroy Posts: 7
    Hi Car_Man

    You will see my posts in a few other sections as well, the wife and I are pricing three separate vehicles. Can you please post the May money factor/residual numbers for 2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo X (4x4), need lease for 15k miles per year, zip is 11803.

    Thanks!
  • alextroyalextroy Posts: 7
    Got the following offer I want advice on...

    2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4X4, with "x" package
    Sale price $33,000
    39-month lease
    15k miles per year
    Dealer absorbing 3 remaining payments on my current lease ($483/month), current disposition fee of $300, and overage charges of $255.

    Lease price is $459/month.

    I am on long island.

    Thoughts?
  • rayd8rayd8 Posts: 5
    Is $32,000 a realistic number on a Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo X 4x4 with sun roof and nav? I would be taking the 1.9% financing and i live in NY.
  • milazzo1milazzo1 Posts: 8
    Alex, I'm on Long Island as well. In same boat as you with current lease situation and looking to get same Jeep. If you can give me dealer/sales person info I would appreciate it.
    John
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 30,458
    You may include the dealership name, city and state in your post. Please do not post names of salespeople, telephone numbers, email addresses, or other contact information.

    Thanks!

    MODERATOR
    Prices Paid, Lease Questions, SUVs

  • alextroyalextroy Posts: 7
    My apologies, I did not know.

    Kyfdx - while you are, can you please comment on jeep deal I posted?

    Thanks
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 30,458
    I'm not really up on the Jeep lease programs, so it's hard for me to know... Looks like you rolled about $2000 into the lease, so that adds $55-$60 per month to the payment..

    Picking the right car is more important than the deal (can't believe I just said that...lol). If you are happy with it, then that's what is important..

    Congrats on the new Jeep!

    MODERATOR
    Prices Paid, Lease Questions, SUVs

  • egor105egor105 Posts: 1
    About to purchase a JGC Limited and was wondering about ways to get best pricing.
    Looks like most deals posted here are 3-5k below MSRP, are you likely to get a better deal negotiating JGC pricing rather then using chrysler partner pricing?

    Thanks...
  • none14none14 Posts: 4
    I bought a fully-loaded Grand Cherokee Overland Summit in February, 2011. Thought I might share my impressions after driving it for 24,000 miles. If you have specific questions, post them and I will be happy to answer.
    About me, this is the first American made vehicle I have ever owned. I'm 53 years old. My wife and I usually drive Infiniti's, Hondas or Nissans. I was extremely apprehensive about buying American as I believe the Japanese make far-superior vehicles.
    I bought the Jeep primarily because I needed a reliable SUV to haul my kids around in and to occasionally take off-road in my job in the energy industry. Also thought it might be handy for our winters here in mid-America but since I bought it, the drought has ceased all snow and ice.
    I bought the V-6, primarily for the gas mileage but it has turned out to be the biggest disappointment about this SUV. It just does not perform, period. Getting on the highway it can flat out get you killed with its slow response. I have learned to 'floor it' to get it into passing gear if I need immediate acceleration. I am sure that is why my mpg averages 15 city and 17 highway.
    I love the tan leather interior and the overall looks of the SUV. Sorry ladies, but it conveys a very masculine impression. The headroom and legroom is great, both front and rear. I'm well over six feet tall and it is plenty big for me. The stereo is very good and this is the quietest vehicle I have ever been in. You just cannot hear any exterior noise except when you are racing down the highway and the wind is blowing hard. It has a very solid feel to it and is easy to drive.
    Basically, I like everything about the Jeep except the under-powered engine. Without that, it gets an A. Taking it in to consideration, I rate it a B.
  • tpaine76tpaine76 Posts: 3
    I am finalizing my purchase of this vehicle and opted to get the weather package. I also wanted cargo covers but was told that there were none on the lot that I could get without buying into another expensive options package, which I did not want to do.

    I asked the salesmen if the dealership could sell me one and just install it when I receive the car but was told that I would have to deal with the Parts Department after the sale.

    I was wondering whether that was normal. It seemed like there were lots of GC Laredo's on the lot that did not come with cargo covers from the manufacturer. It seems odd that the vehicles would ultimately be sold without them -- except as part of a mandatory options packages.

    Would love to hear others' exepriences or knowledge about this.

    Thanks.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 30,458
    I asked the salesmen if the dealership could sell me one and just install it when I receive the car but was told that I would have to deal with the Parts Department after the sale.

    "Well... thanks for all your help... I'll be moving on to a dealership that will do what I want and need.... "

    Feel free to paraphrase.... ;)

    MODERATOR
    Prices Paid, Lease Questions, SUVs

  • tpaine76tpaine76 Posts: 3
    Thanks ... I ended up haggling a little bit more and the dealer agreed to take one off of another vehicle and charge me $150 for it, which was $50+ what he said the Parts Dept would charge to order and install it afterwards. ... I was ok with this, as it appeared that the I got a decent price off MSRP as a whole.
  • tpaine76tpaine76 Posts: 3
    I had one more question for the community at large that came up with the finance guy at the end of the deal ... He was pitching a Jeep Chrysler 7 yr/70k extended warranty for somewhere between $1100 to $1200 ( I don't remeber the specific price), saying that the amount was not too much above dealer cost to provide the warranty and that given the complexity and electronic-laden nature of these vehicles -- in my case, a Jeep GC Laredo, with Quadra Trac II -- it was a good investment.

    I have typically not done extended warranties in the past. But I plan on keeping the vehicle a while (my last one was a 1996 GC with 162K) and the vehicle is a lot more complex than my last one.

    Any thoughts again would be greatly appreciated.
  • I am looking to purchase a JGC Laradeo or Overland 4x4. I like the Overland and all the features it offers, but i like the price on the base laredo model. I am looking for a few people that can share the MRSP and features of their specific JGC vehicle and then what they actually paid (please do not include TTL or anything other than vehicle price). I am looking for recent purchase info, since the few posts that show prices paid on a Laredo or Overland are 3-9 months old. I have gotten email quotes of $5800 off an Overland (MSRP of $44.8k) and $3100 off a Lardeo (MSRP of $31,700). Thanks to all who are willing to share what they paid. :D
  • I am also looking to purchase a JGC Overland 4x4 in New Jersey. Would you share your geographic location with me? $5,800 off of MSRP sounds very, very competitive. Thank you.
  • I'm in northern California and there is significant supply of JGC at the moment at many dealers....more than I've seen in the 9 months i've considered buying this vehicle. I'm going to wait until Friday or Saturday and give it my best shot at the end of the month! good luck with your purchase. let us know how you end up on your deal!
  • jimnjjimnj Posts: 6
    I am JGC Laredo in NJ - what dealer did you use and did you get a good price? I actually want a lease so may be different.
  • usfanusfan Posts: 5
    Hi, I am looking forward to buying a JGC 4x2 Laredo, base version no options.

    What do you think will be the lowest possible price for such a "base" Jeep?

    So far I've been offered around 25k, which is - imho - quite high.
    Thank you so much!
  • 2012 Jeep Laredo 4x2 basic. King County, WA
    Purchased 6/30/2012 (the same week that it was delivered to the dealer)

    MSRP 28,120
    paid 22,345
    (with all the taxes, registration and documentation - exactly 25k out the door)

    Seems like a good deal right. I love the car. It's huge and safe and fast and everything. I'm getting about 20mil/G (not so bad with the gas prices going down).
  • usfanusfan Posts: 5
    Wow,that sounds like a really good deal. Congratulations on your new car! Hope to get a similar deal in the GA area. Did u order any packages?
  • amznamzn Posts: 6
    hi Seattle82m,

    can you suggest a low cost Jeep dealership I can go to in the Seattle area? Thanks.
  • Mine was totally basic 4x2. No additional packages.

    My strategy was to e-mail all dealerships in the area one by one and keep lowering the price. I only dealt with an actual salesperson once (in Kirkland) and it was a zoo and I felt really pressured. I ended up buying the Jeep at Puyallup on 6/30/2012 (so end of the month, mid year and right before 4th of July).

    I already had a quote from them so I didn't have to deal with the floor salesmen. Went straight to the "internet manager" (I don't think he works the floor). His/Their "final" offer was 25k - 1k discount =24k (plus taxes etc). I left and a week later told them 25k out the door and they agreed. End of story. :)

    The car is unbelievable. Love it. We don't get much snow here (maybe 2-3 days a year) so 4x2 was perfect (and 1mil/G more fuel efficient).

    Good luck!
  • mister_mrmister_mr Posts: 5
    edited July 2012
    I used data from posts in this forum to negotiate a good price so I'm giving back by posting my numbers. Paying it forward. Everyone should do the same.

    I purchased a Jeep Grand Cherokee Altitude 4x4 including 26X and Z packages + 430N Nav/Audio, Single Sunroof, Power lift gate, Tow package. The Altitude is a special upgrade on the Laredo X featuring upgraded black wheels and body cosmetics. Purchased in Northern California.

    MSRP: $41,100
    Negotiated sale price: $35,550 (not including tax, license and standard destination fee)

    13.3% off of MSRP

    How to: Go through the forums and find recent MSRPs and negotiated prices for any option configuration of the car model you want and write them all down even if the option packages are different than yours. The important thing is to get the difference between the MSRP and the negotiated price for all cars similar to yours. Be sure to note any deals that had a trade-in or lease component because those can skew the numbers a bit. Try to stick to cash-only or standard financed deals as those are the best 'apples-to-apples' comparisons.

    The reason the exact options on the car don't matter for researching prices is you're going to calculate the percentage off MSRP other buyers were able to negotiate and use that to determine the percentage off MSRP you should target for your car. This is why forum posters should NOT post "out the door" prices or prices with taxes and license because those vary state by state and are not in the buyer or seller's control. The most useful way to help other buyers is to post the actual MSRP off the sticker on the car window and what you negotiated that number down to. More details are useful but those two numbers are key.

    Take your list of MSRP and negotiated price number pairs compiled from this forum and other forums and calculate the percentage off other buyers got. Note the highest percentage off too (if the highest percentage is an extreme outlier, you may want to ignore it or average the top few). Try to use prices from the same model year you're in because dealer pricing arrangements can change year to year. If you're buying early in the model year then use the numbers from the end of the previous year but just remember your number may be less accurate. I usually give extra weight to the most recent purchases and cars with MSRPs closer to the car I want.

    Now you want to take the highest percentage discounts other buyers have recently gotten and use that as your target. Since that price (or better) is where you want to end up, you should add some to it. For my $41,100 MSRP car I calculated that $36k would be a good price. After calling around to several dealers in the region and getting an idea what they had on the lot that was close to the car we wanted as well as getting the best phone prices I could (using Costco programs etc). Dealers were offering around 5% below MSRP on the phone (this is also where the Costco program was). That would be around $39k for the car I bought. In case you don't know, "dealer invoices" are now meaningless and you should ignore them. They no longer have anything to do with the dealer's actual total cost for the car because they get significant monthly and yearly manufacturer rebates based on their total sales volume. You should never pay invoice. Your price should always be significantly under invoice. That's why I just ignore invoice prices.

    Try to avoid falling in love with one exact configuration of options because you're less likely to get a great deal if there's only one car from one dealer that can make you happy. That said, when paying this much you should definitely get the things that really matter to you. It's best to make a list of "must-have", "nice to have" and "don't care" options. Being open to more than one color will also give you a better negotiating position.

    Next I went to a couple of dealers to get their "walk away" price. This is the price they give you as you leave the dealership willing to buy right now (apparently, but not really). To get their true "walk away" price they must believe the only reason you aren't buying is their price, however do not name a price at which you would buy (they will ask you about a million times). In this visit you want them giving you offers, not the other way around. The "walk away" price is usually given in the parking lot as you head to your car. The walk-away prices for the option configuration we wanted were between $38k and $37k, with the lowest dealer at $37k flat. At this point I've still not disclosed a price I would pay. The dealer at $37k also had the config that was the closest match to what we wanted with the least stuff we didn't want and they also happened to be the closest geographically, so I decided to start there.

    I always close on the phone as I like to have my numbers in front of me and the internet to research things further as needed. It also lets me use my wife as "the boss" I have to check with, just like the salesman uses his "manager" (except the salesman really does have to check with his sales manager. That's who you're really negotiating with, the salesman's job is just to consolidate offers and present them for approval).

    When I was at the dealership, the salesman had presented their walk-away with great dramatic flair as an insane offer only available right now and not ever again if I leave. So I left. :-) I got on with my life and waited for him to call me back. When he called later that day, I ignored his earlier Academy award-winning performance of "You'll never see this price again" and let him know I was about to buy a slightly different config from one of his nearby competitors. This was my own "award-winning performance" as I wasn't yet sure I needed to actually get another dealer involved to get the discount I wanted. It's less work for me if I can just pretend there's another dealer involved. However, you need to have your facts straight (the actual MSRP and config that's on the competitors lot, the sales manager's name etc).

    I opened on the phone with a $35k offer justifying it as a fair price based on the copious research I'd done on similar deals online. In my experience it doesn't help to start with extreme low-ball prices too far out of range to be taken seriously, though some negotiators enjoy opening with this approach it does take extra time and I think you end up about the same place anyway. I also justified my offer by citing other similar cars at nearby dealers that I could get for less because their MSRPs were slightly less. These justifications are important because he needs to know you are serious about sticking to your price and not just fishing blindly. You must have data to back up your assertions and be convincing in your position. That's why you need to do your research. The salesman said they'd NEVER take $35k but that he'd go back and try to see if they'd come down at all from the $37k.
  • mister_mrmister_mr Posts: 5
    edited July 2012
    He called back after conferring and the sales manager had come down to $36k as their "final" (I always smile when I hear that). I went to confer with my "boss" (I really went to run an errand). I called back and said "the boss" believes $35k is fair but would go to $35,100 just get it done. They conferred and stuck at $37k. At that point I said we weren't going to come to a deal and asked the salesman what other cars they'd ordered that would be arriving soon, maybe we could come to an arrangement on one of those, otherwise I was going to close on the alternate car from their competitor.

    He worked hard to convince me that the extra options on their car were worth the extra money. The options were squarely on our "nice-to-have" list so it wouldn't suck to have them (though I told him they were worthless to us). I told him I had to go but if he wanted I would try to sell the boss on "splitting the difference" between $35,100 and $36,000. So we both went to confer. He called back a few minutes later and accepted the offer ("but the offer is only available if you are here in fifteen minutes"). So we stopped for dinner on the way. :-)

    Bottom line: 13.3% off of MSRP. I think I might have been able to get 14% if I'd been willing to work it hard with two dealers but at some point you have to consider the value of your time. I really try not to spend more than 90 minutes total on a new car.

    Hope this helps.

    P.S. Always remember: never buy the extended warranty from the dealer (without researching better prices online first) and always spend at least 30 minutes verifying that every aspect of the car is perfect from nav to audio to light bulbs to paint finish (bring your own flashlight). NEVER take the car off the lot if there is ANYTHING less than perfect, no matter what they say. Always make them fix/replace it first. Once that car's tires hit the street you lose a huge amount of leverage to get things done fast and right (until you 'accept delivery' of the car, technically you could rescind the sale (yes, even a cash sale)). I have never found a car that didn't have something wrong with it. If you drive it off with a "work sheet item" to fix the problem you'll be in line at the service department who doesn't care nearly as much about you. I've had dealers re-open the service department at 10pm Sunday night and get staff back from home to fix an issue (their choice as I was willing to come get the car the next day). Your time is valuable. Your money is valuable. The car should be perfect. Don't take it until it is.

    Also, never forget that no one at the dealership is your "friend". This is a business deal. The more you overpay beyond the minimum price they would accept, the more extra profit for them and the less for you. I'm not a jerk to them but I'm also not particularly nice. Any time I go to a dealer to work on buying (not test driving) I tell them I'm on my way somewhere and have to go in xx minutes (usually ten or fifteen) and I stick to it, to the point of just walking out without saying goodbye if they are hiding in the back. I do not have time to sit around at a sales table while they go off and play "let the buyer stew" games. I'm cordial but I don't do small talk. I'm busy. They should be busy getting me the price I need. That's business at hand and we should all be focused on it. When they try to turn the conversation to stuff not involved with the deal, anything from "how many kids do you have" to "how about them Lakers", my standard response is "did I mention I have leave in seven more minutes". Then I say, "sorry for the tight timetable, busy day, so let's buy a car".
Sign In or Register to comment.