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2013 and Earlier - Jeep Cherokee (All) Prices Paid and Buying Experience



  • I am also looking to purchase a JGC Overland 4x4 in New Jersey. Would you share your geographic location with me? $5,800 off of MSRP sounds very, very competitive. Thank you.
  • I'm in northern California and there is significant supply of JGC at the moment at many dealers....more than I've seen in the 9 months i've considered buying this vehicle. I'm going to wait until Friday or Saturday and give it my best shot at the end of the month! good luck with your purchase. let us know how you end up on your deal!
  • jimnjjimnj Posts: 6
    I am JGC Laredo in NJ - what dealer did you use and did you get a good price? I actually want a lease so may be different.
  • usfanusfan Posts: 5
    Hi, I am looking forward to buying a JGC 4x2 Laredo, base version no options.

    What do you think will be the lowest possible price for such a "base" Jeep?

    So far I've been offered around 25k, which is - imho - quite high.
    Thank you so much!
  • 2012 Jeep Laredo 4x2 basic. King County, WA
    Purchased 6/30/2012 (the same week that it was delivered to the dealer)

    MSRP 28,120
    paid 22,345
    (with all the taxes, registration and documentation - exactly 25k out the door)

    Seems like a good deal right. I love the car. It's huge and safe and fast and everything. I'm getting about 20mil/G (not so bad with the gas prices going down).
  • usfanusfan Posts: 5
    Wow,that sounds like a really good deal. Congratulations on your new car! Hope to get a similar deal in the GA area. Did u order any packages?
  • amznamzn Posts: 6
    hi Seattle82m,

    can you suggest a low cost Jeep dealership I can go to in the Seattle area? Thanks.
  • Mine was totally basic 4x2. No additional packages.

    My strategy was to e-mail all dealerships in the area one by one and keep lowering the price. I only dealt with an actual salesperson once (in Kirkland) and it was a zoo and I felt really pressured. I ended up buying the Jeep at Puyallup on 6/30/2012 (so end of the month, mid year and right before 4th of July).

    I already had a quote from them so I didn't have to deal with the floor salesmen. Went straight to the "internet manager" (I don't think he works the floor). His/Their "final" offer was 25k - 1k discount =24k (plus taxes etc). I left and a week later told them 25k out the door and they agreed. End of story. :)

    The car is unbelievable. Love it. We don't get much snow here (maybe 2-3 days a year) so 4x2 was perfect (and 1mil/G more fuel efficient).

    Good luck!
  • mister_mrmister_mr Posts: 5
    edited July 2012
    I used data from posts in this forum to negotiate a good price so I'm giving back by posting my numbers. Paying it forward. Everyone should do the same.

    I purchased a Jeep Grand Cherokee Altitude 4x4 including 26X and Z packages + 430N Nav/Audio, Single Sunroof, Power lift gate, Tow package. The Altitude is a special upgrade on the Laredo X featuring upgraded black wheels and body cosmetics. Purchased in Northern California.

    MSRP: $41,100
    Negotiated sale price: $35,550 (not including tax, license and standard destination fee)

    13.3% off of MSRP

    How to: Go through the forums and find recent MSRPs and negotiated prices for any option configuration of the car model you want and write them all down even if the option packages are different than yours. The important thing is to get the difference between the MSRP and the negotiated price for all cars similar to yours. Be sure to note any deals that had a trade-in or lease component because those can skew the numbers a bit. Try to stick to cash-only or standard financed deals as those are the best 'apples-to-apples' comparisons.

    The reason the exact options on the car don't matter for researching prices is you're going to calculate the percentage off MSRP other buyers were able to negotiate and use that to determine the percentage off MSRP you should target for your car. This is why forum posters should NOT post "out the door" prices or prices with taxes and license because those vary state by state and are not in the buyer or seller's control. The most useful way to help other buyers is to post the actual MSRP off the sticker on the car window and what you negotiated that number down to. More details are useful but those two numbers are key.

    Take your list of MSRP and negotiated price number pairs compiled from this forum and other forums and calculate the percentage off other buyers got. Note the highest percentage off too (if the highest percentage is an extreme outlier, you may want to ignore it or average the top few). Try to use prices from the same model year you're in because dealer pricing arrangements can change year to year. If you're buying early in the model year then use the numbers from the end of the previous year but just remember your number may be less accurate. I usually give extra weight to the most recent purchases and cars with MSRPs closer to the car I want.

    Now you want to take the highest percentage discounts other buyers have recently gotten and use that as your target. Since that price (or better) is where you want to end up, you should add some to it. For my $41,100 MSRP car I calculated that $36k would be a good price. After calling around to several dealers in the region and getting an idea what they had on the lot that was close to the car we wanted as well as getting the best phone prices I could (using Costco programs etc). Dealers were offering around 5% below MSRP on the phone (this is also where the Costco program was). That would be around $39k for the car I bought. In case you don't know, "dealer invoices" are now meaningless and you should ignore them. They no longer have anything to do with the dealer's actual total cost for the car because they get significant monthly and yearly manufacturer rebates based on their total sales volume. You should never pay invoice. Your price should always be significantly under invoice. That's why I just ignore invoice prices.

    Try to avoid falling in love with one exact configuration of options because you're less likely to get a great deal if there's only one car from one dealer that can make you happy. That said, when paying this much you should definitely get the things that really matter to you. It's best to make a list of "must-have", "nice to have" and "don't care" options. Being open to more than one color will also give you a better negotiating position.

    Next I went to a couple of dealers to get their "walk away" price. This is the price they give you as you leave the dealership willing to buy right now (apparently, but not really). To get their true "walk away" price they must believe the only reason you aren't buying is their price, however do not name a price at which you would buy (they will ask you about a million times). In this visit you want them giving you offers, not the other way around. The "walk away" price is usually given in the parking lot as you head to your car. The walk-away prices for the option configuration we wanted were between $38k and $37k, with the lowest dealer at $37k flat. At this point I've still not disclosed a price I would pay. The dealer at $37k also had the config that was the closest match to what we wanted with the least stuff we didn't want and they also happened to be the closest geographically, so I decided to start there.

    I always close on the phone as I like to have my numbers in front of me and the internet to research things further as needed. It also lets me use my wife as "the boss" I have to check with, just like the salesman uses his "manager" (except the salesman really does have to check with his sales manager. That's who you're really negotiating with, the salesman's job is just to consolidate offers and present them for approval).

    When I was at the dealership, the salesman had presented their walk-away with great dramatic flair as an insane offer only available right now and not ever again if I leave. So I left. :-) I got on with my life and waited for him to call me back. When he called later that day, I ignored his earlier Academy award-winning performance of "You'll never see this price again" and let him know I was about to buy a slightly different config from one of his nearby competitors. This was my own "award-winning performance" as I wasn't yet sure I needed to actually get another dealer involved to get the discount I wanted. It's less work for me if I can just pretend there's another dealer involved. However, you need to have your facts straight (the actual MSRP and config that's on the competitors lot, the sales manager's name etc).

    I opened on the phone with a $35k offer justifying it as a fair price based on the copious research I'd done on similar deals online. In my experience it doesn't help to start with extreme low-ball prices too far out of range to be taken seriously, though some negotiators enjoy opening with this approach it does take extra time and I think you end up about the same place anyway. I also justified my offer by citing other similar cars at nearby dealers that I could get for less because their MSRPs were slightly less. These justifications are important because he needs to know you are serious about sticking to your price and not just fishing blindly. You must have data to back up your assertions and be convincing in your position. That's why you need to do your research. The salesman said they'd NEVER take $35k but that he'd go back and try to see if they'd come down at all from the $37k.
  • mister_mrmister_mr Posts: 5
    edited July 2012
    He called back after conferring and the sales manager had come down to $36k as their "final" (I always smile when I hear that). I went to confer with my "boss" (I really went to run an errand). I called back and said "the boss" believes $35k is fair but would go to $35,100 just get it done. They conferred and stuck at $37k. At that point I said we weren't going to come to a deal and asked the salesman what other cars they'd ordered that would be arriving soon, maybe we could come to an arrangement on one of those, otherwise I was going to close on the alternate car from their competitor.

    He worked hard to convince me that the extra options on their car were worth the extra money. The options were squarely on our "nice-to-have" list so it wouldn't suck to have them (though I told him they were worthless to us). I told him I had to go but if he wanted I would try to sell the boss on "splitting the difference" between $35,100 and $36,000. So we both went to confer. He called back a few minutes later and accepted the offer ("but the offer is only available if you are here in fifteen minutes"). So we stopped for dinner on the way. :-)

    Bottom line: 13.3% off of MSRP. I think I might have been able to get 14% if I'd been willing to work it hard with two dealers but at some point you have to consider the value of your time. I really try not to spend more than 90 minutes total on a new car.

    Hope this helps.

    P.S. Always remember: never buy the extended warranty from the dealer (without researching better prices online first) and always spend at least 30 minutes verifying that every aspect of the car is perfect from nav to audio to light bulbs to paint finish (bring your own flashlight). NEVER take the car off the lot if there is ANYTHING less than perfect, no matter what they say. Always make them fix/replace it first. Once that car's tires hit the street you lose a huge amount of leverage to get things done fast and right (until you 'accept delivery' of the car, technically you could rescind the sale (yes, even a cash sale)). I have never found a car that didn't have something wrong with it. If you drive it off with a "work sheet item" to fix the problem you'll be in line at the service department who doesn't care nearly as much about you. I've had dealers re-open the service department at 10pm Sunday night and get staff back from home to fix an issue (their choice as I was willing to come get the car the next day). Your time is valuable. Your money is valuable. The car should be perfect. Don't take it until it is.

    Also, never forget that no one at the dealership is your "friend". This is a business deal. The more you overpay beyond the minimum price they would accept, the more extra profit for them and the less for you. I'm not a jerk to them but I'm also not particularly nice. Any time I go to a dealer to work on buying (not test driving) I tell them I'm on my way somewhere and have to go in xx minutes (usually ten or fifteen) and I stick to it, to the point of just walking out without saying goodbye if they are hiding in the back. I do not have time to sit around at a sales table while they go off and play "let the buyer stew" games. I'm cordial but I don't do small talk. I'm busy. They should be busy getting me the price I need. That's business at hand and we should all be focused on it. When they try to turn the conversation to stuff not involved with the deal, anything from "how many kids do you have" to "how about them Lakers", my standard response is "did I mention I have leave in seven more minutes". Then I say, "sorry for the tight timetable, busy day, so let's buy a car".
  • scottymollscottymoll Posts: 2
    edited July 2012
    I'm in need of your guys' opinions please. I'm in Southern California and looking to lease a 2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee Altitude 4X2 V6. I've contacted multiple dealers and the best offer I have right now is this:

    MSRP: $38410 (upgrades include panoramic sunroof, Laredo E Group, and Uconnect 430N media)

    Negotiated price: $33857 before taxes and fees (I just spoke with them again and they stated the sale price is actually $35357 - $1500 rebate= $33857)

    Lease Terms: 36 months, 12K mi/yr
    $1000 down and a total of $479/month (includes all taxes, etc)

    I'm really not sure if I'm getting a good deal or not. I'd really appreciate everyone's opinion and advice. Thanks!
  • stubbiestubbie Posts: 1
    I'm in SoCal too and trying to negotiate on a JGC Overland. Why don't we make a better deal since we're buying two cars? We can quote at your stealer and mine and compare. My stealer says he's giving it for $750 over invoice but the lease doesn't make sense:

    $46,900 MSRP
    $44,500 negotiated

    $1300 down
    $685/mo including taxes.

    Seems high, right?
  • Yeah, that's a great idea. We need some advice from a seasoned pro who knows leases inside and out. I asked my dealer to send me the numbers broken down and here is what I got.

    Total Price: $35,357.00
    Acquisition Fee: $795.00
    Residual Value $18,820.90

    Amount Due at Inception

    First Payment: $479.20
    Reduction Tax + Sales Tax: $129.85
    Fees/Other/Taxes: $422.35
    + Cash Down: $1,484.01
    Drive Off Amount Due: $2,515.41 ($1,015.41 your portion and the rest comes from the rebate of $1,500)

    Monthly Charges

    Service Charge: $440.64
    Sales Tax: $38.56
    Monthly Lease Payment: $479.20

    I feel like they are playing me. The negotiated price was 33,857 (which was supposed to be the 35,357- 1500 rebate). Instead, it looks like they added additional fees onto the deposit, which offset the entire rebate. The agreed upon down payment was $1000, not $2500-$1500 rebate. See that? What the heck should I do???
  • sampellesampelle Posts: 1
    Not sure if you ever received an answer or closed the deal.

    I m not a pro but i usually estimate the calculation as follow just to make sure that i don't get robbed when leasing a car.

    MSRP $35357 plus acquisition $795 fee minus $1500 Cap Ccost Reduction = Invoice price $34652 This is basically the price you agreed on the car like if you were to buy it
    Basically you received a 2% discount on the MSRP. Not that great but can range from 0 to 15% depeding on car, offers etc. I am sure you can get a better deal on the MSRP.

    You can check on Edmunds how much it's the difference b/w msrp and invoice. Invoice price is what most people pay.

    Some cars have better discounts some others less depending on how much the car is hot seller or not and sometimes on higher prices cars you get better discounts.

    Some dealers give it some dont that's why i suggest also going to dealers with a lot of inventories.

    Residual Value (based on what you said is $18820 or 53% of MSRP).
    Seems little low to me. If residual is 53% means you are paying the difference which is 47% or $16537 divided by 36 months = $459 a month.

    Lets say you deal a better residual such as 57%. This would make you save approx $1330 or $37 a month and you payment would drop from $459 to $422.

    So let's start from a $422 monthly payment.

    On top of this monthly payment you need consider that the car maker will charge a financing charge and you will need to pay the sale tax on your lease.

    Let's say Jeep finances purchases of cars at 2% interest, that is another $43 a month.

    If interest is more like 5% your interest monthly payment be ready to add most likely $100 a month which is double approx.

    That said if you add:

    $422 monthly payment for car depreciation a month
    + $43 of 2% financing interest
    = $465 monthly payment

    If you want to add sale tax on your monthly payment add $36 approx so your monthly payment becomes $501

    Sale tax should always be paid upfront to avoid paying interest on that.

    Your only money down should be the first month $501 and title registration fees which should be higher than $1000.

    If you are to pay sale tax upfront you would pay $1000 approx plus $1296 but your monthly payment should go down from $501 to $465.

    One more thing. 10K miles or 12K or 15k? that should't change monhtly payement by much, may be $10 more or less.

    I hope it helps.

    Regards & all the best.

  • wjtinatlwjtinatl Posts: 50
    Drove my new Hemi Overland home last night from the Roswell GA dealer. A flat $6k off the sticker of $43,485. Some haggling as I had no trade and wanted to pay cash, apparently $2k comes back in trade-in bonus and finance company kickback. I ended up financing the car which I'll pay off next month so my cost there is almost nil. Probably left a few hundred bucks on the table but I didn't want to waste an entire evening haggling over the last dime. Got the Black Forest Green with the Saddle/Black interior. That, the Hemi and Trailer Tow package were the only options. Overall a beautiful car, and it returned an even 20 mpg on the 400 mile interstate drive back down to the Florida panhandle.
  • autoalautoal Posts: 5
    Car_Man (and other consumers),

    Can you provide me with the money factor and residual on a 2012 GC Overland V8? I understand Jeep relies upon several financing institutions. For example one quote was MF .0012 and 52% and another was .00001 and 45%. Just looking for best deal. Thanks for your help.

    Brooklyn dude.
  • vik2127vik2127 Posts: 1
    wow! 25k out the door.. looks like a sweet deal if including taxes. is this a 2012 model ? congrats on your new car.
  • Just purchased an Overland GC in Fayetteville, NC. Black exterior, black stitched leather interior, panoramic roof, tow hitch, and all other Overland options. 4x4 v6 model. Final price before tax/tag was $38,510 (~13% off MSRP).. how'd I do?
  • Im in the market to purchase a 2011 or 2012 Pre-owned JGC for my wife. I'm located in Dallas, TX and curious to get some recent data points or buying experiences on how far dealerships come off their stated retail price. we are open to looking at cars within 250 miles of Dallas so also trying to get a feel of how much "room" is padded into the deletes Pre-owned stated Internet price.

    Looking for a model with under 25,000 miles. Appreciate any comments/guidance.

    Big D Jeep
  • ex_jeeperex_jeeper Posts: 2
    edited September 2012
    I have been a Jeep Driver for OVER 25 years. Bought a high end Overland GC in May 2011. The first problem was the paint bubbled in literally hundreds of places around the shifter. They replaced that, but then the cubby door in front of the shifter didn't open properly afterwards. About 9 to 10 months down the road, the Jeep started to unlock itself. This got worse, MUCH worse over the next few months sometimes happening 4 to 6 times a day. It happened when in the vehicle sitting at a WAWA numerous times. One time I came out and found the hatch open. By then I would carry the fob like it was a piece of fine glass to be sure it did not rub against anything. It did not matter. Dealer gave some lame story that was completely unacceptable. Trans shifted VERY hard on many occasions, usually at a very low speed, with a resounding clunk that could only lead to problems down range. Gas mileage sux. Like others I found myself putting my foot into it to get it off the line. After just 17 months of ownership, reading of others issues, and the vehicle not able to stay locked hundreds of times, I bailed. What a dam shame. Went to a Lexus and doubt I will return to Jeep anytime soon if ever now.
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