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Mazda RX-8 Care & Maintenance



  • pathstar1pathstar1 Posts: 1,015
    That comment has me chuckling. I thought to myself, "I'm an Electronics tech. not a mechanic, but they way these cars are going re electronics overlooking everything, maybe that comment was appropriate after all". Even though I'm sure it was in jest.

    For me, working on the mechanicals is a hobby. I love the advanced mechanical stuff, hence I get a kick out of working on my RX-7 and occationally tweeking Maurice's RX-8.
  • cheezeboycheezeboy Posts: 218
    Well, you just wait till I win the lottery!...I'll fly ya down or I'll drive up and let you loose on my RX8!....I am sure you could tweak out a few more HP's!.....

    In all seriousness, your comments/info are very helpfull....we here in the forum owe you a nice pie or cake or something for your help!....

  • PFFlyer@EdmundsPFFlyer@Edmunds Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 5,808
    It's Tuesday, so it's Mazda chat time again. Drag a friend along tonight!

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  • 16,000 miles and the water pump "cracked"....under warranty, no charge...took 2 is back to running like a dream.....first sign of a problem was the coolant light came on at startup and stayed on for about a minute. But all is well now. If you see that happening, take your 8 in!.....
  • Does anyone notice oil residue when they check their oil? Or when you open the oil cap to add more oil, do you see creamy brown sludge, like oil goo? I have never seen this in any other car? Is it unique to the rotary engine?
  • mugster1mugster1 Posts: 34
    Not to worry, pretty normal stuff. Apparently its condensation that's got into your oil. Nothing to worry about.
  • tjjjr2tjjjr2 Posts: 4
    Manual calls for SAE 5W-20 API SL (ILSAC GF3)
    June 2004 a better SAE 5W-20 API SM (ILAC GF4) was introduced

    Does anyone know if using the newer SM GF4 will effect warranty?
    harder to find the SL these days
  • cheezeboycheezeboy Posts: 218
    Had to prepare for a trip to Disney World (!!!).....and needed new tires....

    I purchased 4 new Portenzas - $225 each....from the got an alignment. The rubber has made the car 'feel' like new again. I had gone 30K miles on then 1st set - including a 5700 mile trip around the USA! observation is that these are great tires!

    The old tires had worn in a nice even pattern across all 4 tires - basically almost bald. With my South Florida location, all this rain was making for some slippery driving!
  • Did you ever get a diagnosis on your brakes? Mine squeal 80% of the time too & I have a service appointment in a week.
  • yes I did find out what it was......2 things really
    1) slight rotor problem with the back right wheel, in which the dealer 'shaved' the rotor
    2) since my "tour de usa", I've warped my front two rotors!

    to solve the second problem, I have to bring in car for a complete brake job - which is fine because I DID the damage driving like a nut-case!! but it's hard not too in this lovely machine!! also, I am gonna see if I can wait another month and a half before I do this - I want to send the $ to the hurricane relief fund....I can live with this for awhile!....
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Posts: 1,015
    Rotor warping is caused by heating them up by braking hard from high speed, then stopping and sitting for a few minutes. The caliper cools off only one part quickly, and that warps the rotor. If you have to brake hard to a stop, try stopping 10 ft or so behind where you HAVE to stop, then allow the vehicle to roll forward a few feet every 5 sec or so. This will cool the rotor down more evenly.

    A little trick I use to avoid replacing those "junk" too thin rotors manufacturers give us!
  • dwynnedwynne Posts: 4,018
    The #1 cause of rotor warping is over tightening or uneven tightening of the lugs. Pretty typical if you take your car someplace to have a flat fixed or tires rotated and the tire place uses an air gun to put the tires back on (and they all do). Even if they use a torque stick on the air gun they can still do it wrong and cause your rotor to warp.

    I always try to take the wheels in via another car when I need work, or if I can't I loosen the lugs when I get home and re-do them with a hand torque wrench.

  • pathstar1pathstar1 Posts: 1,015
    Actually, the detailed explanation of this is fascinating. If you just went up to your vehicle when the wheel was already installed and the nuts properly torqued and overtorqued one nut it would not warp the rotor. The reason is the rotor hat is a flat plate under the flat wheel mount flange against the flat hub.

    What actually warps the rotor is when they torque to full value the first nut, then do the next, the next, etc. The wheel tends to not centre properly on some vehicles, and when the first nut is torqued down, it holds the wheel off-centre enough that when they torque another the wheel acts like a wedge pressing against the edge of the rotor hat. This can slightly bend the rotor hat on one side on some vehicles - not all are suseptable, explaining one reason why some vehicles are more prone to warping than others. For those that don't get into this, the rotor hat is the part that holds the brake rotor to the wheel hub. Sometimes it's one piece with the hub, sometimes it's a separate piece.

    The solution, or way to avoid rotor warping from this cause, is to hand tighten all nuts first. Then use three tightening passes, first at 10% or so final torque, next at 60% or so final torque, and the last at full torque, always moving across the stud circle to do the next nut. This is what I have always done, after noticing the wheel can get offset if you torque the first one without the others tight.

    I've found that generally, differential heating and poor installation are about equal in cause of warping on suseptable vehicles. Not all will warp from poor installation, and not all will warp from differential heating, though, so the #1 cause will vary from vehicle make/model to vehicle.
  • as always, thanks for the info! People like you make this forum the greatest!!!

    and if driving 90+mph on a mountain pass (at midnight), then braking hard to avoid a big owl in the middle of the road, then sitting for 5 min or so, to catch my breath, qualifies for "classic rotor warping" - I am guilty of that!
  • Does anyone else have a dealership that isn't ordering the 5w20 oil? :confuse:

    Dealership in NC told me today that Mazda is OK with them using 5w30 oil in our area. I am still a bit concerned that this is going to make my gas mileage worse. (I'll be checking even more carefully)
  • mkollmkoll Posts: 21
    Anyone experience an engine squeek which is most audible when the car is warm and idling? Had the dealer check it out yesterday and they tell me that it is a normal noise from the oil pump? Supposedly there is no prior information regarding this problem and the Mazda techs told the dealer that this noise is more noticable on some RX8's than others but that it is normal? At the dealer we had the car up on the rack. The engine mounts checked out, and belt lube did nothinig.
    I have been next to other Rx's at the gas station and not heard those vehicles making this squeek.
    Any thoughts?
    My RX8 is a 2004 and I have had problems with transmision failure, warped rotors, and battery failure.
  • I just checked my mileage and it is worse...
    I believe I will be taking it somewhere else to get it changed again and put 5w20 in.
    I'm rather annoyed by the whole thing.
    Anyone else had this happen? I have to wonder if the folks getting the really bad gas mileage are having 5w30 put in without their knowledge?
  • I just had oil changed in my '04 at Mazda in Charlotte NC...they put in 5w20. Where in NC are you?
  • I dont get on here much.

    I'm in Winston-Salem.
  • moadhmoadh Posts: 15
    Since i had to import my RX-8 from the states, there aren't many garage's that would know their whereabouts on the RX-8 so i have to end up doing all the servicing and such by myself, or taking it to a garage and telling them specifically what to do. I've been using the owner maintenance table for a while now; in addition to my personal knowledge. But i was wondering if there is anything else i have to be looking at in terms of services and service-intervals? thanks
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