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Fan Control Only works on level 4

ayer1ayer1 Posts: 2
edited March 5 in Subaru
I have a 2000 Legacy GT Limited and the fan control in the car only works at its highest setting (4). The AC/Heater all work fine. All of the fuses in the car and under the hood checked out fine.The relays in the fuse box under the hood also were all right. Any suggestions on how to resolve?

Comments

  • zueslewiszueslewis Posts: 2,353
    itself - fan motors will go out in stages (usually).
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    unless the motor has multiple windings for each speed, I'd say there is a blower motor resistor near the motor, looking like a little two-screw dingus on the air ducts under the hood, and those are notorious for going away. also cheap. worth a look.

    other possibilities are the switch itself or a gollywompus hifalutin' computer module.
  • zueslewiszueslewis Posts: 2,353
    seen have been tied to the motor - same part/part number - that's what I meant, sorry I wasn't more clear. Sheesh.
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    no problem. as for clarity, I quote long-term entertainers Puke and Snot, who say, "He who shall... so shall he who."

    (it's a renaissance festival thing, they're purveyors of jokes Milton Berle retired to the King.)
  • Is the resistor and fan motor the same part or is the resistor a separate part?
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    those overseas buggies I have looked under the hood on have had separated parts as well. because resistors generate heat, they are usually inserted into the air ducting under the hood. there are exceptions, my 76 buick had one in a separate metal can bolted to the duct. usually one or two connectors with four or five fairly thick wires running out of the connector is a tip-off... the plate for one of these things is certainly smaller than a credit card, and just a whisker smaller than a business card has been common.

    but I won't rule anything out :(
  • there is a thermal fuse to detect resistor overheating as a result of blocked air flow. These were designed in to prevent melting of plastic parts and/or a fire. This device is only installed in series with the resistors and the highest speed operation is not prevented. Because this is a chemical fuse, sometimes the part just goes bad. Replacement fuses are available at Radio Shack for under $2, but it is not a simple replacement. Soldering will blow the new fuse. Crimping works best.

    Those with electronic speed controls need a new module.
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    mighty fine of them. so cut the crimp end off a suitable uninsulated wiring terminal and use that on each end. it's too soft of a metal and may shake loose eventually, but it's handy.
This discussion has been closed.