Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Oil change/fiascos



  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,408
    Oh if you cruise the forums here, you'll hear occasional stories of oil filters coming loose---often human error, but you know what Mother Nature tells automotive engineers: "you provide the opportunity to make a fatal mistake, and I'll provide the person to do it"


  • Here's a how to site for Toyota's cartridge filter. This system looks like a pita.
  • mbowen1989mbowen1989 Posts: 8
    Hi, I just wanted to add that the previous post said that overfilling may or may not mean anything. I would have to disagree because overfilling the oil pan with oil will cause the oil to contact the crankshaft when the engine is running. Which would cause the crank to whip the oil up like scrambled eggs. Which would lead to low oil pressure which can seriuosly damage the engine. Just thought I add that because I hate to see your Ferrari needing a new engine. Also I like to tell you that the W in for example 5W30 means winter not weight. Which basically means that when the oil is hot the viscocity is 30 and 5 when cold in simple terms.
    Hope you get her fixed
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    "I would have to disagree because overfilling the oil pan with oil will cause the oil to contact the crankshaft when the engine is running. Which would cause the crank to whip the oil up like scrambled eggs."

    That depends entirely upon the engine and the clearance between the typical top level of the oil while the engine is running and the bottom arc of the crank and rods, and that is IF the engine in question uses a wet sump arrangement. Said another way, some engines will whip the oil, otherss will not.

    "Which basically means that when the oil is hot the viscocity is 30 and 5 when cold in simple terms."

    Ummm, no. What the grading numbers mean is that when a multi-grade oil is cold, the oil flows as a straight-weight oil of the first number would flow when cold, and when the oil is warm, it will only thin out to the point where it will flow as a warm straight-weight oil of the second number will flow when it too is warm.

    As for "W" standing for "Winter", that is something of a misnomer as "Winter" really doesn't have much to do with it; the"W" is a hold-over from a very early SAE J300 oil specification.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,408
    That oil churning is called "cavitation". It can be a definite problem, you are correct, but probably not with 1/2 qt or even 1 qt overfill. You'd need to really load 'er up in the oil pan.


  • ref 11Mustang v6: Took the car in for the first oil change at 1100 miles primarilly to dump any casting residue, chips or other unwanted junk. Ford dealer is now mandating an oil supplement with oil change. Is this a Ford endorsed proceedure or just something the local Ford service department thought up to boost the profit on the oil change??? thanx TG
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,408
    KA-CHING! that's all it is.


  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    If it is a Ford mandate, the dealer should be able to show you a TSB on FMC letterhead, complete with a toll-free number for consumers to call.

    But it ain't gonna happen, because as good as that motor is, it just isn't that finicky.

  • I just started work in a service center. Today an Audi Q7 with a V6 came into my work for an oil change. I found the oil filter on the driver side of the motor about half way up. After finding the oil filter I notice a soft line running directly bellow the cap. It moved around a little but not enough to clear the canister cap and filter.

    I got the cap loose using a 36 mill socket and extension, but I was unable to pull it all the way out. After playing with the hose I could only pull it out about a half inch. I asked a senior tech to show me how to remove it. Unfortunately he had no experience with these cars either. While trying to work the cap around the hose the tech broke the internal retainer tube on the cap that holds the filter. We then had to go to Audi and buy a new cap and refund the service.

    Once i was back under the car, I figured out that I could work the filter into the housing and then maneuver the cap onto it and snap them together. Unfortunately I cant do this during removal because I cant separate them untill they are off the car.

    Had anyone experienced this problem and do you have a good technique for removal
  • > That's why I only go to dealers now, and try to use the same dealer consistently. They still make mistakes, but they will replace the oil pan if the thing gets stripped.

    how to get them to replace the oil pan. Here is my situation, I used only
    one shop to change my oil, it was fine for a few year, then this time aug31, 2011, they informed me the oil pan thread worn out??? (at first, they blamed
    the previous oil change person to damage the thread, but then I let them know that last time I did change oil here (as well as the previous two oil changes as I still had paper work in my car. Then, they changed the tone saying that because of the pan made of aluminium, so it is worn out. I did
    not have money to have the oil pan change, so the shop suggested to
    use oil drain oversize plug temporarily. I had no choice but let it done that way. IT WAS FIRESTONE store in Milpitas, CA. I knew their previous tech did overtighten it and damage the thread. So if anybody has any ideas on
    how to put a complaint on FIRESTONE, please let me know. Also, please let me know is any way to fix the thread without changing oil pan. My car is
    2001 Mazda Tribute V6, 94K miles. Thanks in advance.
  • wtd44:

    Could you help me by letting me know where to get a drain plug repair/replacement kit for my car 2001 Mazda Tribute V6 DX (the plug size
    is 12 (hole) 1.75 (thread) as it was told) Mine was tripped by the FIRESTONE
    tech while doing oil change for me (i did do the oil change in one store few
    years for my car - now they made mistake and did nothing about that by
    saying wear and tear as my oil pan is aluminum so the thread is worn out.
    I knew previously the tech did over-torqued (sp?)/overtighten it)

    If the thread is able to fix without changing oil pan, it is much appreciated.
    Also if anyone know how to send a complaint to FIRESTONE head quarter,
    please let me know.

    Thank in advance
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    They make an expansion-type oil pan drain plug. It's a bolt/nut/washer combination that sandwiches a piece of rubber between them. You put the bolt & rubber piece (one assembly) into the drain hole and just tighten up on the exposed nut. That draws up the washer on the inside of the ribber piece, which then expands the rubber and seals the hole.

    Kind of hokey, but it works.
  • Whenever I read forums on oil changes, I never hear anyone mention the other important thing after changing your oil when it is warm; priming the oil filter. More damage is done to an engine in that first 15 seconds that an engine is started after an oil change. All that fresh oil is sitting in the crankcase, waiting to be drawn into the pump. When that engine is cranked, all the crankshaft journals, all the springs, valves, camshafts and other parts that need to stay lubricated are dry! Those few seconds of dry turning are destroying those bearings. Always remember to take a few minutes to pour oil into the filter first. Since the filter has a back-flow stopper, you need to pour a little, let it fill, pour some more, let it fill, ect. Most filters will take up to a half a quart in them. Since that is done, now oil can get to the pump almost immediately, since the filter is usually the closest thing to the oil pump. When re-installing the filter, turn until you can feel the o-ring touching the filter, then turn it just about 1/8th of a turn more. You don't want the filter too tight. Finally, if the car has a turbocharger, it is important after driving it to let it idle for a minute to give the oil a chance to continue to lube the turbo as the blades slow down. This isn't a problem in a supercharger, because it runs on crankshaft motion.
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    Good advice. But that doesn't work if your filter is mounted sideways or even further past horizontal.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Letting a turbocharged engine idle for a minute prior to shutdown is simply a waste of fuel in 99% of the cases. That said, if you've been blasting down the highway at high speeds and quickly stop in for a tank of gas, then yes, letting the engine idle for thirty seconds or so is a very good idea.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,408
    that's my read on modern turbos...just ignore cool down unless you have just come off a freeway ramp at 80 mph in 100 degree other words, extreme situations.


Sign In or Register to comment.