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Nissan 350Z Care and Maintenance

Karen_CMKaren_CM Posts: 5,020
Share your 350Z care/maintenance tips here.

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  • jaymcgjaymcg Posts: 1
    I live in CT and will be storing my 350Z Roadster in one of the unheated garages at my home. I am looking for insight from anyone who has previously stored a car over the winter. Cover It? Start it up once a month? Disconnect the battery? Trickle charge the battery? Oil the cylinders? Etc... Thanks for your help!
  • If it were me I would start the car and run it until operating temperature once a week. Nissan has a smart computer that cuts power to non essential systems if the car is not run for a period of time. I think it is ten days. But, a car hates to be left and not run. When you run the car once a week I would cycle all of the goodies to include the airconditioner and all the electronics. If possible, I would get a space heater for the garage or you can purchase a space bag for your car. I have a friend in New Hampshire that stores his 70 GTO in a spacebag and it works for keeping the moisture down. The bag is clear plastic and you drive the car into it and then there is a small fan that keeps the bag inflated. That is, after you zip it up. Good luck with the storage. But, I would heat the garage.
  • zzz350zzz350 Posts: 44
    I recommend moving to California, winter storage is no problem. In fact, winter driving is a blast
  • Hi,
    I' recently purchased an 2005 350Z Roadster. I live in California so the sun can be harsh on the convertible top. Does anyone have any suggestion on how it care for the top in the dry desert heat?? Currently I only rinse it with water when I wash my car. I don't use any soap on it.

  • Hi,
    Does anyone know if it's alright to use Armor All the interior of? the dash, doors etc? Or should I use a different product??

  • fish8fish8 Posts: 2,282
    I think Armor All is safe for your interior. There are many people out there who say AA will dry and crack your dash, but from the research I have done their formula has changed and it will NOT dry or crack your interior dash. I actually emailed AA directly and, of course, they state their product will not harm your car. But, many people do not like the shiny affect AA has on their dash. Some say it causes a bad reflection. I use a damp cloth (spray detailer) and just wipe down the dash. I think Meguiars just came out with a new prodcut which cleans ALL interior surfaces. I am not sure it protects the surfaces or just cleans. I have not used this product yet.
  • I recently purchased a 2004 Nissan 350Z. When I went in for first Lube, Oil, & Filter I was told the vehicle had NO Grease zerts to lube the suspension and stearing parts. I was told that the replacement parts (once the origional parts wore out) came with grease fittings, but that the Factory put no grease points on the origional parts. This seems crazy to me. Anyone got an answer, or explaination for this? Any alternative to waiting while your car parts wear out from lack of lubrication?
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,150
    this is extremely common on cars these days. Grease fittings are becoming rather rare, to my knowledge, as a matter of fact. I believe my mom's '98 Trooper has them, but none of my last 6 or 7 cars built in the 90s and later have had any.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • Has anyone else had problems with their brake pads having to be replaced after 4000 miles? I have had my car for 10 months, very low miles...brake pads in front already needed replacement. I drive 140 miles a month....and I don't drive in traffic. They tell me the back needs replacement in about a month or two...they are down to 50%. This is ridiculous. I have been driving sports cars for the last 20 years, have never had this problem before. Any suggestions?
  • 350Z Lady--

    DO NOT USE ARMOR ALL.. I have a 2003 350Z and was told that the oils attract dust and over time it will crack your dashboard. The auto guys reccomend I use warm water and a towel to wipe it down.

    I used Armor All wipes once or twice. I liked the gloss but it was oily everywhere..
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,150
    crack an all-plastic dash? I don't buy it. Dashboards that have actual material of some sort covering them, ok, but not solid plastic.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • yes.. good point. Do any of you find it difficult to keep the inside of your driver side and passenger side doors clean? I have Black interior and it gets Blotchy when I wipe it down.. Any feedback?
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,150
    definitely had trouble in mine. My wife actually used those armorall wipes on them when i wasn't looking. Ugh. Made them look horrible. BUT, then I wiped it all down again with a clean dry soft rag and it was ok.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • I bought my car used and don't have the owners manual. How do you replace the low beam headlight?
  • Below are instructions copied from the service manual for removal and installation of low beam bulbs. Not exactly an easy do it yourself operation.
    Removal and Installation AKS009O8
    1. Open driver and front passenger window, and then disconnect battery negative cable.
    After battery cables are disconnected, do not open/close the driver and/or front passenger door
    with the window in the full up position. The automatic window adjusting function will not work and
    the side roof panel may be damaged.
    2. Remove front bumper. Refer to EI-14, "FRONT BUMPER" in
    "EI" section.
    3. Remove headlamp mounting bolts.
    4. Pull head lamp toward vehicle front, disconnect connector, and
    remove headlamp.
    Installation in the reverse order if removal. Be careful of the following.
    After installation, aiming adjustment. Refer to LT-33, "Aiming Adjustment" .
    Disassembly and Assembly AKS009O9
    Headlamp mounting bolt : 6.1 N·m (0.62 kg-m, 54 in-lb)
    1. Retaining spring 2. Front turn signal lamp bulb 3. Front turn signal lamp bulb socket
    4. Side marker lamp bulb 5. Side marker lamp bulb socket 6. Xenon bulb
    7. Parking lamp (Clearance lamp) bulb 8. Parking lamp (Clearance lamp) bulb socket 9. Seal rubber
    10. Plastic cap 11. Halogen bulb (high) 12. Xenon bulb socket
    13. Halogen bulb socket 14. HID C/U 15. Headlamp housing assembly
  • marcz1marcz1 Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 350 Z , I am a very high mileage driver, should I use synthetic oil in my Z ????
  • jjmangjjmang Posts: 5
    You are talking about a 350z right? Where did you get the manual? HOw do you take off the bumber?
  • siphuzsiphuz Posts: 6
    Hey jjmang -

    It's not that complicated! I know a much easier way to replace your lights without having to remove the bumper. First of all, when u say replace your low beams, do u mean your Xenon bulbs or regular halogen??

    Tools needed:
    - Drill with phillips head screw or regular 4 edge screw driver (will take u longer)
    - flat edge screw driver
    - Mini rachet set just in case the screws are on too tight (screws are aslo rachet bolts)

    Steps as follows:
    - turn steering wheel all the way in the direction of which bulb u r changing first (ie. left light assembly, turn steering wheel all the way left).
    - then jack up that side with your factory jack.
    - get under front fender and remove 5-6 screws/bolts that hold up only the front under-side wheel well covering.
    - remove 5 - 6 plastic rivets located around the plastice wheel well covering (4 around the wheel well lining and 2 attached to the frame) - (use flat edge to pop-up then pull out).
    - Pull down covering slightly and allow to rest on tires.
    - You will then have access to the back of the light assembly
    - Goodluck!

    (If it's Xenon that you need to replace - i wouldn't mess with it - may need dealer assistance)
  • jjmangjjmang Posts: 5
    Thanks for the reply. I did it the first way you described. Worked out well. Taking the bumber off was a chore but i got it done. Thanks
  • bcool1bcool1 Posts: 1
    Hi folks,

    Anyone know how to remove the fixture that partially hides the battery? The "pop rivits" look like they will come out, but I don't want to test that theory and break them/the housing. Additionally, I found that the hatch lid was ajar only after it completely drained the battery (alarm light is off, no instrument lights, no power after a 15min jump, etc). Any info on what systems may have been compromised as a result? Thanks.
This discussion has been closed.