Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Chevrolet Silverado Prices Paid and Buying Experience

1202123252638

Comments

  • asylum575asylum575 Posts: 72
    Branhap,
    Does your deal include the $2000 rebate + the $2000 loyalty rebate.
    I hate all these rebates, It's hard to see if you got a good deal. I guess that's the point. I operate under the rule that the vehicle should discount 10% off sticker then deduct rebates.
  • branhapbranhap Posts: 10
    Yes.

    $2,000 for rebate, plus $2,000 for loyalty rebate. Although Loyalty rebate doesn't really matter as Sunday Chevy added a Conquest Rebate to the Silverado even. *shrug*

    With regard to discount, most of the dealers I got quotes from were in the 7 to 8% range off MSRP before rebates, with one dealership at 9.6% (but didn't like that truck as much.) For the most part. Local dealership wanted only 5% off MSRP.

    My main goal is to get the truck for close to invoice, then take off the rebate.

    For the most part, I did not find Edmunds TMV or the cars.com smart price to be very accurate. Just better to go in and ask for invoice price, and go from there!

    Paul
  • 44blues44blues Posts: 1
    Yesterday I purchased a 2008 Silverado 1500 4wd ext cab work truck with full towing package (rear locker etc) and bedliner/rack mounting system. Sticker was $28,810
    minus 2k standard rebate, minus 2k conquest rebate and $1875 off from dealer ...sales price is $22,994 plus 95 title/doc prep.
  • spahutspahut Posts: 6
    I got my 2008 LTZ 4WD crew cab. Had engine block heater, skid plates, 6 CD, sunroof, EZ Lift, and safety package.
    MSRP - $42,204
    My Price - $ 39,077 b4 rebates
    cust $ - $ 2,000
    loyalty - $ 2,000
    -------------
    $ 35,077 before trade and money down

    Input would be appreciated.
  • jfritschjfritsch Posts: 958
    A 42000 Ltz will probably wholesale used for about $26000 in 12 months. (Look up an 07 on kbb or nada.com). If thats the case, eating 9000 or more (depending on how you did on your trade.) to drive a chev pickup for the 1st 12 months wouldn't appeal to me. 7000 or 8000 off msrp for a truck that depreciates $16000 from msrp 1st year (like most of the 42k'ers) isn't exactly giving it away.

    --jjf
  • spahutspahut Posts: 6
    Yea, after the trade price of $5500 that gave me $29,500 before putting any money down so it was about $13k off the msrp. If I read you correctly should I have gotten the price down to about $36k before rebates and trade to be in the ballpark? If so how do you get a dealer to come down when they still consider the truck "new"?
  • jfritschjfritsch Posts: 958
    Read my message 4681 in the Hyundai Sonata forum for useful info on how to buy a car. Yes I would have wanted a minimum of 10k off the msrp.

    Of course the truck is new. An 08 dodge ram 1500 msrp $41000 may be new. An used 07 like it 13 months or so old according to kbb.com or nada.com will barely trade in for $20000. (its msrp is even more unrealistic than most trucks). Even 12000 off msrp is financially yuckky. This will be more yuckky if gas is $4.00 and above in the future.

    If you got about kbb value for your trade you didn't leave much more money on the table. If the dealer in question happens to have a gold mine due to his location or otherwise, he may be able to work 7000 off deals on 42000 LTz's frequently (frequently enough to work them). You may have been able to work a better deal (walking out and leaving your # helps) but if his business is great, you could beat you head against the wall for hours and get an additional free oil change and a chevy hat.

    But not all the dealers, competitive bids (via email phone or fax) is the way to go.

    Good luck
    --jjf
  • spahutspahut Posts: 6
    I guess my comment about the truck being new was the comment the dealer made. I went in trying to get them to come down about 10% off MSRP and that would be close to invoice and then take rebates, trades from there. Looking to come down $10k from MSRP was something I had not heard nor would I have thought you could get a dealer to come down that much.
  • jfritschjfritsch Posts: 958
    Its much better to get many dealers to bid end of month for your business. That way you separate the wheat from the chaff and get the few who need to make a sale. The bids may go down (over telephone or email) as the 30th or 31st ticks nearer.

    You really can't have an auction (for your business) with only one bidder. Its like one hand clapping. For price targets a fairly good rule of thumb is to take the kbb or nada wholesale of the vehicle you are looking at used (12-14 months old) with average miles and add about 20% for the target on a new one. One should shoot for as close to that as possible.

    --jjf
  • fueledupfueledup Posts: 64
    You really don't know a thing about purchasing a new vehicle. It doesn't matter one ioda which day of the month you decide to purchase a vehicle. If a dealership needs to move a vehicle it's more than willing to make that move on the first,thirty-first or any day in between. To say to target a price at 20% above the kbb wholesale of a 12-14 month old value is just stupid. What matters is having the actual knowledge of the dealers cost of whatever vehicle your interested in purchasing. Using your theory a dealership is willing to lose apprx. 5,000.00 on every vehicle it sells. Yes depreciation sucks but thats a fact of life. Knowledge is king. If there's trunk money , holdback ,dealer adv., rebates ,etc. If its a cold car you can get all that. If not your somewhere in between. And thats when you turn the table and waste there time invested so they dont want to lose your business.
  • sleukemsleukem Posts: 22
    You really don't know a thing about purchasing a new vehicle. It doesn't matter one ioda which day of the month you decide to purchase a vehicle.

    I'm sorry to say but you are half wrong on that statement.

    If a dealership is approaching the end of the month and has not made their sales quota, they will be more willing to deal on their inventory.

    Now if the dealership has been hot then they will not have much incentive to deal on their vehicles. In this case, you are right. It will not depend on what day of the month it is to buy. Jfritsch covered this in post 459. He mentioned that if a dealer was popular, you could beat your head against a wall and only get a free oil change. Something to that effect anyway. :)
  • fueledupfueledup Posts: 64
    Wrong wrong wrong! If a car is hot it's all about negotiation skills. If a car is cold it's gotta go. On the first , the fiftenth, the thirty-first, or any day in between. The last day of the month b.s. is all about creating a mirage of you have to buy it now or this great bargain will disappear. Quota is every day of the month!
  • sleukemsleukem Posts: 22
    I realize quota is every day of the month. That is why if they haven't reached their sales quota by the end of the month they would be more likely to deal with you.

    Sorry but I have never heard a car salesman tell me that at the beginning of the next month it will go up so I really don't get your mirage scenario.
  • puttercaputterca Posts: 4
    after a few months of researching, i finally pulled the trigger today.
    1500 ext cab, 2wd, with california pkg MSRP 29315
    i paid 26480, so about 10% off MSRP and i took the 0% financing
    they also gave me a fair deal on my trade-in.
    from my experience, the internet quotes i was getting were 5-6% below msrp, and I could get a few of them to 8-9% after a little negotiating, but they were insulting me with what they wanted to give up for the trade-in. my biggest asset was the research i've done and the posts i've read on edmunds to see what everyone else is paying. having the knowledge of a what a good deal would be, as well as having a few dealers competing for my business gave me the advantage in the negotiating process and it was actually very quick and painless.
  • fueledupfueledup Posts: 64
    congrats. give updates on your mpg as you motor along. good luck.
  • ocautoseekerocautoseeker Posts: 425
    The last day of the month b.s. is all about creating a mirage of you have to buy it now or this great bargain will disappear. Quota is every day of the month!

    True, a good deal can be had any day of the month, but the "best" deals will be had the last couple days of the month. Why you ask? Because at the beginning of each month, dealers are optimistic about hitting their numbers and believe that they have 31 days to achieve their goals.

    Example: Customer comes in on the 2nd and gets quoted $250 over (sounds decent, right?). Besides, dealer has 29 days to haggle with him, or move on to customer B, so the desperation of a sale is not prevalent yet.

    Now, the same customer waits 'til the 30th and that $250 over quote drops to $1250 below. That's a $1500 swing and a subtantial savings - certainly worth waiting a few weeks for.

    You have to remember though, prices are affected in so many different ways - color, engine, tranny, options, length of time in inventory, etc.
  • kgabekgabe Posts: 25
    Rebates $2000 Cash to Customer start: 03/04/2008 end: 06/02/2008
    Get Dealer Pricing
    Restrictions $2000 Customer Cash may not be combined with 3.9% - 6.9% APR.
    Comments Dealer participation may vary. Incentives and Rebates are provided subject to the terms of our Visitor Agreement.
    $1000 Cash to Customer start: 05/22/2008 end: 06/02/2008

    Restrictions GM Memorial Day Event Bonus Cash is good towards the purchase or lease of select vehicles.

    $1500 Cash to Customer start: 05/22/2008 end: 06/02/2008
    Restrictions GM Memorial Day Overage Bonus Cash is good towards the purchase or lease of select vehicles. Vehicles must have a price effective date on or before January 22, 2008 to qualify.

    WHAT does this last sentence mean?
  • jfritschjfritsch Posts: 958
    I'm assuming it means the manfacture date sticker on the door or drivers doorjamb.

    --jjf
  • dukebludukeblu Posts: 18
    Just bought a 5.3 LB WT. Had air, Z85 suspension and dealer installed bed liner. Didn't want the bed liner, but nobody else around had a 5.3 LB WT. MSRP $20,890, $21,118 with bedliner. Well after the main $1500R, Memorial Day $1000R, Pre 1/22 R $1500, Private Conquest $1500R, GM Card $1500R, GM Card Bonus $1000R, I used a total of $8000 in rebates. I thought I would never beat the $7700R I got off my GMC Classic 5.3 WT last year. To top it off the pre 1/22 trucks MSRP base at 17,455 newer ones at $17,890.

    So traded in the GMC plus $2,950 and have a new truck. Upgrades were cd, bed liner and HD suspension over the GMC. Plus I had three gallons in the GMC 33 in the Chevy. Thats $120 buck incentive right there. 7% better fuel economy with 7% more horse power. And XM radio. The GMC had 12,500 miles. The deal is out the door.

    With the better options, better 5.3 the deal is right there with the trade I made last August for the GMC trading a 2006 bare bones 5.3/Air LB Silverado WT with 32k miles plus $2,150 for same 2007 GMC. GM is letting me always drive a new 5.3 LB for under $250 a month. The no trade in cost on the truck cash after tax would have been under $13,700. I paid $14,200 for my SB 5.2 Dakota Sport with less options 14 years ago. Needless to say, I'm a fan of the GM Card.
  • asylum575asylum575 Posts: 72
    Dukeblu,
    Where did you find out about the $1000 GM card bonus rebate? I haven't seen it or gotten any information on it.
Sign In or Register to comment.