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Toyota 4Runner Maintenance and Repair



  • canddmeyercanddmeyer Posts: 382
    I replaced my OEM Dunlops on my 2003 4Runner SR5 4WD with Bridgestone Revo's. The wet and offroad traction is better, but the overall ride is stiff and bumpy and the Revo's increase the road noise heard from the interior. Everyone driving anything else loves their Revo's, so I've come to the conclusion that Toyota made the front end of the 4Runner too stiff. I was thinking of getting Cross-Terrains for a better ride when my Revo's wear out, but the prior post wasn't reassuring.
  • gdh3gdh3 Posts: 28
    Thank you for the replies. It sounds like you are not overwhelmed by the ride. There are so many choices with shocks and tires and given the expense I would love to hear from others about their experiences. I think Bilsteins have a good reputation for shocks??
  • I have on 06 4Runner with 10k and I have had it in 3 times now. 1st time they told me that was normal.
    It got worse and the 2nd time they greased it which worked for about 1 week.
    Now it is in the 3rd time and they told me that is normal noise that the vehicle makes and will only grease it.
    I don't think a noise that sounds like someone rear ended you is normal.
  • How did you get in touch with the Regional Customer Service Rep? I have been to the dealer 3 times and they basically say there hands are ties and toyota doesn't give them authorization to replace anything, just lube which works for about 500 miles.
  • silorsilor Posts: 6
    I have quite a history of my car clunking. I was told to lube the slip yoke, which will never work at getting rid of the clunk. Several weeks ago, I had TWO new drive shafts installed. The first one didn't solve the problem. The second one helped initially for the first couple weeks. But as of today, my car is clunking again quite regularly and I'm about ready to pull my hair out. I never knew a Toyota product could be such a maintenance nightmare. Do not, I repeat, DO NOT let Toyota push you around on this one. It is a real problem that will only get worse. Lubing DOES NOT HELP.

    Hopefully you have looked at "charlie4runner's" responses. He wrote one to me on January 31, 2007 which I plan on utilizing when I one MORE FRIGGEN time approach Toyota on getting this problem corrected once and for all. Charlie4runner gives very pertinent and extensive information on correcting this problem since he had the same issue.

    I just cannot believe that Toyota had my vehicle for a week and still didn't correct the problem. Stick to your guns. This is a real problem that Toyota is obligated to correct.
    :lemon: :(
  • andrew17andrew17 Posts: 26
    Dear Gdh!
    Please consult a factory trained mechanic before replacing the original shock absorbers with a different type. The curve stability could be significantly reduced by the wrong set. If you check your shock absorbers the bad ones will show a little oil smear at the lower segment, a good sign to watch.

    I check my shock absorbers by pushing down hard at each corner of the truck, if the rebound is "out of order" - I would replace all of them. If the rebound is OK, the problem is in the tire pressure.

    A bad shock absorber would create scalloping (little dents) on one of the tire's running surface; in case of the 4Runner and Landcruiser the right hand side will go first.

    Try to contact our host, "Steve", he always provides reliable advice! =Andrew
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 39,025
    Flatterer. :blush:

    There was a great post here that got lost in the archives that I used to link to all the time. Maybe because some guy in Northern Idaho wrote it, plus he drove a Subaru. ;)

    Anyway the poster had worked as a car designer or engineer for Lexus iirc (and maybe some other outfit).

    The upshot of his shocks/struts post was that the manufacturer spent a lot of time and money designing a shock specifically for the make/model and even the trim line for that make/model. The aftermarket places would design one or two shocks and try to make them fit a variety of applications and that a "universal" fit shock would never work as well as the one custom tuned for the car. So his suggestion was that you always stick with OEM shocks (unless you were going to do a lift perhaps).

    Some companies do test their shocks to match a specific system - Old Man Emu supposedly does. Don't know about Bilsteins.

    There's more over in the Shocking! Talk Shocks here! discussion too.
  • My engine hesitates when I hit the throttle causing it to die. It still drives when I'm easy on the throttle. The check engine light does not go on. I have replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump, throttle position sensor, and the mass airflow sensor. What else could it be? By the way it's a 92 Toyota 4runner 3.0 liter V6.I Have done the jumper wire diagnostic also and the code reads normal but the engine still hesitates. It runs like their is something wrong with but it it doesn't want to tell me what is wrong with it. Like I said before, I could drive down the street but problem with it really couldn't get me anywhere. So no stored codes and some parts have been replaced but it still doesn't run great. I am thinking about getting my valves adjusted to see if thats the problem. I can't think of anything else. If you guys have any suggestions that would greatly help me.
  • mike805mike805 Posts: 33
    Sounds like a lack of fuel. Have you checked the fuel pressure. I don't know the exact configuration of the 92 4Runner but there should be a pressure regulator valve that keeps a constant fuel pressure at the manifold and has a bypass back to the fuel tank. If this is bad it may be bypassiing too much giving you a low fuel pressure even though you replaced the fuel pump.
  • Thanks for the information. It turns out that it was a distributor problem. The fual pressure regulator was something else I was going to try to test. My feeling is that no code was stored in the ECM and if their was problem their would be. But I really don't know I am Inexperienced. The problem is fixed finally though.
  • drex1drex1 Posts: 41
    See message 777 for additional information on how to replace your starter.
  • drex1drex1 Posts: 41
    For tires, I replaced mine with Goodyear Forterra Triple Tread tires--they are AWESOME tires!
  • drex1drex1 Posts: 41
    Can any one recommend a new horn for my '99 4Runner? The original horn is fine but a bit wimpy for a SUV.
  • I need help to open the rear door on my 05 4runner. The wiring harness has been cut out and the door is shut. The locks on it are electronic and the door is shut. There is a little retangular shaped access in the rear door but I cannot seem to figure out how to open door from this. Help!!!
  • macsensemacsense Posts: 2
    This has started happening on my 1998 4Runner as well. The display comes and goes on the clock and reappears if I tap it or the dash around it. The dealer said there was in internal short in the clock and wants $300+ to replace it. Hmmm.... there has to be another solution.
  • Check my previous message about a few months ago. Call Toyota's 1-800- number for customer service, and start a file. They will inturn call the Dealer.

    My final fix was a Lexus drive shaft. I belive it was a LExus G470 shaft that finally fixed it.

    I read about it on the Lexus forum at another web site.

    If you can believe thi. When I told my Dealer about the possible fix with a Lexus Drive shaft, He said " You Don't Hvae a Lexus" Duhh! I know that you wanta-be-Japanese Moron.

    Anyways, the District Rep allowed him to swap the shaft.

    The cluck feeling has completely disappeared. Believe me.

    Good Luck- Insist they do it, especially since they can't think of any other good reason why the vehicle would do this. It is not normal!
  • amazongirlamazongirl Posts: 1
    I just recently bought a '91 4Runner V6 auto (I had an '87 once before) It's in great shape and well cared for with 260000km. I just noticed that overdrive will shut off while I'm driving (the lights indicate I'm still in overdrive) I've since found out the previous owner brought the truck to Toyota on three seperate occasions without any results in figuring out the issue. Hoping someone can point me in the right direction to fix it. Thanks!
  • thebluewavethebluewave Posts: 11
    I know your in Canada and I'm in the U.S., but I have a couple questions for you, anyway.
    1. How much was the part in Can $?
    2. Was it hard to find and did you have to wait on it?
    3. You had the dealer do the swap, correct?
    I am sick and tired of the clunk and I have heard that this fix works from others as well. If you get around to it, please answer the questions. My email is
    Thanks Charlie,
  • krahnkrahn Posts: 1
    My car has 120,000 miles. I had the timing belt and water pump replaced 2 weeks ago by the dealership. After driving it for 3 days the transmission went. The fix will cost $5200 of which they will bill me $2600. Can the timing belt rplacement be connect with the trans going? and how much is a new trans?
  • Matt,
    Your email didnot work.
    I belive the part was approx. $600 CDN. It was all covered under warranty. I've lived with the problem, a year after getting the vehicle.
    It only take 10 min. to change the part
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