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Toyota 4Runner Maintenance and Repair



  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    You didn't mention how well your '97 runs. If it runs well, why not just give it to your boys (they can learn the responsibility of ownership and fix it up themselves) and you can get the '95 for yourself. You can also try to negotiate the $4800 price down. :)

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • I am experiencing the exact same problem with a 1999 4runner limited as I have read many others have with power locks. I just bought this truck and the dealer had already replaced the actuator. When I got the truck it would unlock every time and would only lock the doors occasionally. Now it does not lock at all, except manually and still unlocks with the door button or remote. I found on a reply that sounds feasible, but I have not tried it yet. This person said to replace a fuse block that is under the steering column. Supposedly he did it himself and it fixed the problem. He mentioned that there are about 12 harnesses that have to be unplugged to get to the fuse block and also that there are 2 large fuses that would need to be replaced. It was mentioned that the part was approx $238 and the dealer wanted $260 to install it but he did it himself in about 1-1.5 hours. Does this sound right and can the average Joe do this?
  • While driving home today, I opened the sunroof and it would tilt but not open all the way. I eventually opened it, without any weird sounds that I recall. Now that I'm home, the sunroof is midway and will not close. I tried holding the button for 10-15 seconds as some advised, and it opened all the way instead. I tried manually pulling the sunroof shut, but have not had any luck. Please help me!
  • hulk3hulk3 Posts: 1
    Have a 2006 4Runner. Cranked veh and Check Engine light came on along with the VSC lights (VSC Off light, VSC Track light, and Veh icon light). Lights remain on while driving...2 days now. Veh runs fine. Have switched from 2wd to 4wd and back. No problems. I also checked all fluid levels due to Check Engine light coming on...all is well. Does anyone have any suggestions or opinions ? Thanks
  • jpp5862jpp5862 NCPosts: 298
    I had this happen on my 2006. Since all the VSC lights were on I assumed it was some kind of fault, so I took it to the dealer. They told me it was because I hadn't put the gas cap on tight enough and charged me $50. I've always known that not tightening the gas cap would turn on the check engine light, but found it suspect it would also turn on ALL the VSC lights, but they were insistent that it would. I'm still not sure that was the problem, but it's never happened again since.
  • 5k mile oil changes with highway use is more than sufficient. I would recommend the BFGoodrich radial Long Trail if 2WD or the Rugged Trail if 4WD if used off road at all.
  • For all of the 4 Runner owners that are having problems with the power locks that will unlock but not lock electronically. I found one person that actually sounded like he knew the fix, so I checked with a couple service techs and then bought the part and installed it myself and everything is working great. I do not know that it is the same part for all years but the 99 4runner part # is 8273035260. Toyota list is $259.95, I bought mine on line from Toyota of Richardson in Richardson, TX for $203 including S&H. I took about 45 minutes to an hour to install. The part is the tan colored fuse block at driver's left knee. Take panel off and 2 bolts hold fuse block in. There are 14 or 15 wiring harnesses plugged into the block. I numbered each one with a sharpie as I took them loose and numbered the new block accordingly. If I can do it, you can too.
  • Don't forget to disconnect the battery while you are working on the fuse block.
  • re: 01 4Runner. It developed a windshield leak that allowed water on fuse block. A day of steady rain made car alarm go off. I turned it off then started it up (just in case)no problem. A few hours later the battery was dead, had to jump start. FYI, I replaced battery and alternator within a week so they are good. I garaged the vehicle to dry block and removed the negative battery connection. I noticed that (with battery connected and doors closed) the door ajar light is faintly lit. Is this normal or an indication or other problems (that I can't think of). I made appointment for reseating windshield and will not let another drop of rain hit it until then. Thanks in advance.
  • I have a 04 4runner sport V6 with 80k..and for the past few months I've noticed the milage chage from 18/ 15/18..All maint has been up to date..and 4 new Mich cross train tires on it.What would make this happen?.what should the actual mpg be?
  • Where can I find wiring diagrams for my 2008 Toyota 4Runner.
    I am looking for shop manual caliber
  • chuck1chuck1 Posts: 1,405
    The tires COULD be the cause. Do a search and find out how much the Cross Terrains weigh. Then do the same for your old tires. BTW-the CTs are an excellent tire. Very,very quiet and long lasting, smooth riding.

    Good luck!
  • The Michelins are not the cause for an mpg loss. Welcome to winter gas formulations. You should have been seeing this every winter anyway.
  • I also have an '04 4Runner SE, V8, 5sp automatic. At about 50,000 miles I went to the dealer expecting to get a preventative transmission fluid change but was told the WS grade transmission fluid did not need to be changed until about 90,000 miles. I'm sure you have observed there is no transmission dipstick to check the transmission level yourself. The dealer went on to explain that the transmission fluid change was more involved than you might think. There is a drain plug hole near the bottom of the transmission but it will only drain about half of the fluid if opened. An upper plug is to for the refilling process but can also be used to FLUSH the system which requires about 12 qts. of fluid to properly flush the system I was told. After talking to another garage, I decided to buy about 6 quarts of Toyota WS transmission fluid and let the garage simply drain what would drain and pump in enough fresh fluid to bring the level back to the upper drain plug. It requires a small 12v pump to pump the new fluid out of the containers and into the upper port. When fluid starts to run out, he put the plug back in, lowered the car and started the engine and engaged the transmission to D for a few minutes. Then, shut off the engine and raised the vehicle to check the level again using the upper port. It took about another quart to bring it back to the upper port level. This was a cheap way to replace a PORTION of the old fluid. 4Runner now has about 71K and no problems. However, next time, I'll have it flushed at the dealer. The 4Runner does NOT check the quality of the transmission fluid. Keep a watch for any leaking and if you are concerned about the fluid level, I think the only way is to open the upper tranmission port and check the level with your finger. It should be very near the bottom of the upper port's opening. Why Toyota couldn't have just put in a dipstick (which could also have been used for refilling or even to suck out the old fluid) is beyond me.
  • agnostoagnosto Posts: 205
    Does anyone know the oil element torque setting for the 2010 4Runner V6 4WD ?:

    1. Oil drain bolt/plug (bolt to drain the 6.6 US qts of oil)
    2. Center cap drain plug (small O-ring to drain the oil from the Oil Filter element)
    3. Cap with Oil Filter Housing element (big O-ring to remove the Oil Filter housing element with the 65mm 14 flutes special service tool)

    I called TCS and the Toyota dealership and got conflicting answers.
  • I bought a new 2003 Toyota 4Runner SR5 a few years ago, and am not sure if the four wheel drive system is working properly. When I first used it, I wasn't really paying attention to the indicator lights. I read the manually, and it says that when i turn the four wheel drive to the H4 position from H2 the indicator light should blink several times then stay on. I also click the center differential button, but that does nothing. Can someone help me
  • chuck1chuck1 Posts: 1,405
    The car manufacturers are starting to feel that they do not want the owners to have access to the fluid level of the transmissions. There have been some problems caused by overfilling. I didn't think most people even opened their hood!

    But I agree with you.
  • Going to H4 (unlocked) does turn a dash indicator to green. Locking the differential turns the indicator to yellow. If this isn't happening, then see the dealer. I'm doing this off of memory as I don't care to go outside at the moment to look at my dash.

    Sounds like you've correctly interpreted the owners manual, so the vehicle may have an issue. Some of us early on found out the 4H took too long to engage and you'd be stuck before the 4wd actuated. The remedy was to leave it in 4H unlocked all the time.
  • warrebwarreb Posts: 20
    I just purchased, from the Toyota dealer, two oil filter elements for my new 4runner. Have not got under the car yet, but the instructions on the side of the filter box say "tighten cap to torque indicated on Cap top surface with SST" (SST = special service tool). Presume that means there are some torque specs that become visible when the piece is taken off. Further down on the side of the box, where the instructions refer to the small O-ring and bolt assembly, they call out a torque of 12.5 + or - 2.5 N-m (9.5 + or - 2 ft lbs).

    Do you really need the SST? Or will one of the many faceted cartridge oil filter grabbing tools work?
  • agnostoagnosto Posts: 205
    I have the generic metal oil filter grabbing tool, but I went to Wal-mart and purchased the SST (FRAM brand 65mm 14 flutes) for under $4.00 which is a hard plastic (the more expensive one is metal). I have not used it yet, but I did find the torque settings for the oil change (after I had to correct multiple times Toyota Customer Support providing me the incorrect info for the wrong engine type). Here are the torque settings for the oil change in a 2010 4Runner:

    1. Oil drain bolt/plug (bolt to drain the 6.6 US qts of oil) 30 ft-lbs of torque
    2. Center cap drain plug (small O-ring to drain the oil from the Oil Filter element) 10 ft-lbs of torque
    3. Cap with Oil Filter Housing element (big O-ring to remove the Oil Filter housing element with the 65mm 14 flutes special service tool) 18 ft-lbs of torque

    I had to buy the Craftsman torque wrench (5-80 ft-lbs), since the one I had was for higher torque setting (25-125 ft-lbs).
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