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Toyota 4Runner Maintenance and Repair

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  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    tryspider, even though it is cooling down in Atlanta for example, try the test i suggested. with a clogged drain, you still may have appreciable water in the pan that on hard turns, you're going to soak your carpeting in the foot well area again.

    you want to try the alternate experiment which is OK by me. my experiment is quicker. ;)

    hey - don't you use your AC when it rains and your windshield fogs up?

    good luck.
  • gilvgilv Posts: 1
    ">I have a 2004 Toyota 4 Runner Sport. I purchased the truck wrecked (With a good title), and had it fixed. The job done was strictly body shop work (Left front door and fender were replaced). No mechanical parts were damaged. When I drove the truck I noticed a sporadic sudden stalling of the engine when driving at 30 to 40 miles per hour, and also a sporadic sudden locking of the front left tire at any speed. No warning lights are ever turned on when these problems happen.
    I took the Truck to the local Toyota "Dealer", and they are in effect doing everything possible not to take the truck and fix it. They are telling me that the only way to duplicate the problems, is by performing a computer diagnostic with the truck running, and they will not do it because is dangerous to drive. They can try to fix it going by an elimination process, but I will have to pay for their "elimination process" if they come out to be wrong.
    Under their conditions, for example, I will pay for a complete electrical wire check, take out the truck (I become their default, unpaid fearless test pilot) and see if the fix works, if it does not, I take the vehicle back, and try the speed sensors (non refundable once purchased), then repeat the process and if does not work, replace the ABS module, and so on, until they finally make the correct guess. They will not give me any warranty on any parts and labor... I just basically have to roll the dice, and hope that what is probably a simple problem to fix with a real mechanic in charge, does not end up costing me thousands because some clown is getting on the job training at my expense. Can any one tell me if they have the right as a Toyota dealer to expect the customer to pay for their "guesses" and not honor any warranties ? The Truck has a good title!!!, and can any one suggest what may be wrong with the truck?.
  • nedzelnedzel Posts: 787
    "What is not expected is that once the ABS kicks in the brake pedal pressure dissappears and you are left holding onto the steering hoping to make the turn"

    What is not expected is that someone who owns a truck regularly gets into the ABS on off-ramps... ;)
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    some comments from someone mentally simulating the situation you're in...

    tough one. i would think you can't compell anyone to take a vehicle into traffic which you know has a high probability of locking up a wheel and placing the driver in a loss of control situation. not only is the driver at risk, so is any other traffic (specially on-comming).

    if you are hesitant about the prospects of being a "test pilot", you could understand a service manager being hesitant to send one of his techs on a potential crash and burn mission...

    there's also the possibility of subsequent damage to the vehicle if the wheel locks up and the vehicle strikes something...

    this seems like a situation to perhaps consult with another dealership and/or independant specializing in toyota vehicles to mitigate risk and maximize the benefits of time in the vehicle / parts replacement.

    i imagine there is probably a way someone really knowlegeable about the braking system (assuming that's how the wheel is locking up) can selectively disable traction control or stability control, or what might be the cause of wheel lockup (due to a speed sensor problem?)...and see if the wheel locks up or not. this would help in winnowing the problem / solution space.

    there may be a way to mitigate the risk to a driver and the public using some kind of dynamo test stand, perhaps disabling / decoupling the drive to rear wheels...

    i suppose you may also have mechanical problems which are unseen (differential?).
  • I expected this response from someone. Regarding regularly feeling the ABS kicking in, I meant that momentary jumping underfoot when you cross a loose surface like scattered gravel, or a sharp bump while braking and turning into a tight offramp, normally the 270 degree roundabouts. You have to climb on the brakes in these cases, specially when there isnt a dedicated offramp lane. The other wheels have perfect traction and as a result of the issues I mentioned before, I get less breaking performance once the gizmo's start playing.
    On another point regarding handling. Has anyone actually fealt the difference in an XReas vs std suspension?. I had an SR5 loaner and fealt no difference in comfort or handling to my Sport.
  • 777,
    I have looked under it after I have had the a/c on and there is water draining but I can't really tell if it is the amount of water draining it should be. It isnt completely clogged though because there is some drainage. I havent heard any kind of water sloshing or the sizzle of it hitting the exhaust in hard turns either. I havent really got up under it and investigated it too well, but where can I find that drain line that might be crimped and the pan you are talking about? Can I see it from under the hood or do I need to get up underneath the vehicle to locate it? Thanks for your suggestions so far
  • chuck1chuck1 Posts: 1,405
    I have a 2004 Toyota 4 Runner Sport. I purchased the truck wrecked (With a good title), and had it fixed. The job done was strictly body shop work (Left front door and fender were replaced). No mechanical parts were damaged.

    It would appear that "parts were damaged". You need to remember that when a vehicle is in a serious wreck, IT IS NOT THE SAME VEHICLE AFTER. You need to ask your self the question- Why did the previous owner get rid of the vehicle after the accident? You said it wasn't totaled by the insurance company? You know, I am not a fan of New Car Dealers and their service departments. However, I must say I side with the dealer with this one. This car has been in an accident and they don't wish to "get involved" with the vehicle. I can't blame them. You know there are inherent risks involved in buying a vehicle involved in an accident and you found this out!
    Good luck with this!
  • nedzelnedzel Posts: 787
    Sorry, but having had my 4Runner for 2 years, the only times I've felt the ABS come on have been in snow. And your post was far too tempting a target to not respond ;)

    I haven't tried a std 4Runner (my limited has XREAS), so I can't help you there.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    well, if you see water draining to the road surface... you know where the drain is. ;)

    on cars I've owned the drain tube is visible under the vehicle, up front, ahead of the firewall but in an area behind the front passenger tire.

    just to clarify a point - if your problem is bad (and the pan isn't draining at all), many people experience the sound of water hitting a hot frying pan. i believe it is water sloshing up against the evaporator coils and being changed from a liquid into a solid almost instantly, but that's just my theory. it is not water hitting exhaust system components.

    cars are different of course. in mine (Honda), the cabin/pollen filter is behind the glove box and in the passenger compartment. to be honest, i don't know where the actual evaporator and pan with drain is located - but in my car, i think its there...one big assembly. last time i changed a cabin filter, there was some nasty stuff that collected there. on some cars, the cabin/pollen filter is located in a different place, but the pan and drain has to be at a low-point in the system, and if the evaporator is behind the dash somewhere, it will certainly not be outside the vehicle, or under the vehicle...but behind the dash and above driver or passenger feet most likely.

    a toyota parts web-site (google it) might show for you vehicle and model year, where the AC evaporator or cabin filter is located on an exploded parts list. a call to a dealer parts department will probably also provide you with the information.

    generally, during an oil change, most shops will gladly shoot a blast of compressed air up the drain line. if a boat-load of water pours back out, you know what your problem is. if someone charges you to do this when they already are under the car (either car is on a lift or they are in a pit), that would *REALLY* surprise me. just ask them.

    you can try running your car without the ac. if you don't have any further mosture in the footwell, maybe your drain is partially clogged...just to let you know, debris in the pan can move and a completely clogged drain can become a partially clogged one. this has happened to me.

    if you don't use your ac and you get water in the floorboard, i guess i would suspect a problem with a passenger door seal or windshield seal. you might be able to diagnose those possibilities using a garden hose.
  • dlrjazdlrjaz Posts: 1
    Hi could you tell me how or where the egr gas temperature sensor plug is? I am having the same problem you have I have code 71. Thanks for any help. Jaz
  • I looked at my belts yesterday on my 1996 Toyota 4runner ltd. and one of them is badly worn. How hard are those to change and should I be able to do that myself or is that a job for a shop?
  • had same problem and the stealership couldn't fix it either they can't duplicate the problem or they give me such bull as they all do that.
    well I fixed it my self by lubricating the spline yoke and u-joints of the propeller shaft. Over all cost is $14 got the lithium grease and moly lithium grease at the local Auto Zone place.
    Hope this helps
  • I am having an identical problem as well. Stuck in 4High, 4X4 indicator light flashing. 2000 4Runner 4X4. Did you get it solved?
  • Mine just did the same thing on Saturday. They told me I'd have to replace the cat convertor also. Thing is I already had it replaced at 60,000 miles and now I"m having to replace it at 115,000. Let me know what they tell you. The service manager at least told me this is NOT NORMAL
  • I just bought a 2005 Toyota 4Runner V8 4WD. Driving home from the dealer I noticed a high frequency vibration in the steering wheel that only occurs when accelerating. No vibration at all when coasting at any speed. There is no discernible movement of the steering wheel but just a regular "buzz-like" vibration in my hands and I can feel the blinker "buzzing" with vibration as well. I didn't notice it when test driving but now its really irritating. I've seen some of the discussion on this forum about vibration issues but haven't seen anything like this that is not a function of speed and goes away when coasting. Any ideas on what could be causing this?
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,109
    Please update your membership information with a valid email address.

    tidester, host
  • I had a big scare the other day driving my 2004 4Runner on a rain soaked highway when my brakes, steering and power all seemed to fail all at once! This has happened once before but it wasn't on an Interstate highway. I called the dealership and they were good enough to call back with some possible answers.
    Of course they also requested I bring the vehicle in however, I'm not sure they could duplicate the situation. Here is what happened...
    I was driving back to my office from a client meeting 25 miles away. The drive was very wet in both directions. The problem first showed up as I exited onto a newly constructed fly over that would drop me down onto I-95 in Jacksonville FL. As I climbed the fly over at 60 mph the steering seemed odd and I thought the vehicle was beginning to hydroplane. The entire fly over is apx. 1/5 mile. I merged onto the Interstate and was getting uncomfortable with my vehicles response to the road.
    Within moments of getting onto I-95 the car seemed to leave the road, steering and brakes failed, I even think power failed. I also heard an emergency beeping noise from the dash. My 4Runner traveled 30 to 50 yards without real contact to the road. Thankfully all the traffic was behind me and in front of me. I only crossed one lane and never spun out of control. After regaining power and control I moved off the Interstate and onto the emergency lane where I continued to drive and regain composure. The tires are original and not bald (but have wear).

    Anyone with some answers or a similar situation?
  • Was this request for me?
    email is valid
  • kloftus...sounds like hydroplaning to me. If during the previous incident the roadway was also wet, I'd say you were going too fast for the conditions. Just my opinion, so don't take it personally. The 4Runner's safety systems response appears to have acted as they should have.
  • Thanks for the reply.
    I was not exceeding the speed limit, infact I slowed the vehicle down to a speed under 60 mph well before I lost control of steering. I was driving the same speed as the rest of the traffic. The dealership explained that belts associated with the steering rack could have been wet and resulted in some of the problems. I'm not certain what could have been the primary cause I just did my best to try and deal with it for almost one mile before it got really serious.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,109
    Was this request for me?

    No, not unless you are aka dlrjaz.

    tidester, host
  • nedzelnedzel Posts: 787
    You can be under the speed limit and still be driving too fast for the conditions. If there was heavy ponding on the road or if it was oily then you may well have hydroplaned.

    Your steering didn't fail. It continued to control the front wheels. The problem was that the front wheels were no longer in effective contact with the ground. The spin control system detected that you were losing control. The brakes and engine did not fail. Instead, they were working to try to control the truck, by reducing throttle and selectively applying the brakes.

    Slow down in bad conditions.
  • I explained that my speed was not faster than anyone else on the fly over or Interstate. I also explained that I slowed the vehicle as I climbed the fly over. My car did not loose contact with the road "instantly" it came after driving on a "new" concrete surface for nearly a mile.
    If it's my tires then I will go change them tomorrow.

    I like my 4Runner.
    I have owned several Toyota's and don't have any issues with the manufacturer.
    This is the first time that I have ever experienced a situation with any car that resulted in (what I believe to be) a perceived loss of multiple controls.
  • chuck1chuck1 Posts: 1,405
    "This is the first time that I have ever experienced a situation with any car that resulted in (what I believe to be) a perceived loss of multiple controls.

    Almost impossible. It was most likely "hydroplaning!"
  • nedzelnedzel Posts: 787
    Agreed. There is no way that multiple systems "failed" simultaneously and then "unfailed" simultaneously.

    I strongly believe that you were hydroplaning and that the responses that you experienced were due to the spin control system trying to control the truck.

    "my speed was not faster than anyone else on the fly over or Interstate" Different vehicles have different capabilities.
  • Hello,

    I was wondering if you ever found a solution to your error codes P0125 and P1135?
    I have a 2000 V6 SR5 (Auto) and just read the codes with my code reader (after the engine light came on yesterday.
    These are the the only two codes listed as being stored P0125, and P1135.
    All I have found out so far is:

    P0125:Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Operation
    After the engine is warmed up, heated oxygen sensor (bank 1, sensor 1) output does not indicate RICH (greater than equal to 0.45V) even once when conditions (a), (b), (c) and (d) continue for at least 1.5 minutes:
    (a) Engine speed: 1,500 rpm or more
    (b) Vehicle speed: less than 62 MPH
    (c) Throttle valve is not fully closed
    (d) 140 seconds or more after starting engine
    Problem Area:
    Open or short in heated oxygen sensors (band 1 sensor 1) circuit
    Heated oxygen sensor (bank 1 sensor 1)
    Air induction system
    Fuel Pressure
    Injector
    Gas leakage on exhaust system
    ECM

    As far as I can tell P1135 is Toyota Specific
    P1135 O2 Sensor B1S1 heater ckt open/short

    From what I've seen recommended is to replace the o2Sensor
    Any help or solution is great thanks!

    Thanks,
  • ybike2ybike2 Posts: 2
    I've been struggling with this same issue. In fact, my 02 Sequoia stalled three times today. I found this site - http://www.findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_qa3828/is_200207/ai_n9092642 - added brake fluid to the master cylinder and problem is gone... Go figure!!!
  • Hello forum,
    My original post of this problem was back in over a month ago. The last post I left off was that I was about to install the new fan clutch, purchased from NAPA, and hoping it would fix my overheating problem. It did not. I had to put my original fan clutch back on and thankfully that NAPA gave me a refund.
    Here’s a brief recap of what I have been doing to my car from last few weeks. Still, the problem hasn’t fixed.
    After the last try from the new fan clutch that didn’t work, I ran out of ideas. So I took my car back to the same Toyota dealer, where I have them checked it first time and didn’t see the overheating, and requested them to do an extensive diagnose. At end of the day, the dealer called and told me that it needs a new fan clutch. Ummm, back to my original thought… But I warned them that I had tried with 3 different fan clutches already, 2 new and a used, and none of those is fixing the problem. But I thought they are the experts and they must be right, so I agreed to have the dealer put the fan clutch on. After picking up the car and on the way of driving home, I still see overheating as usual. I called the dealer right away and informed them that the overheating is still happening. They scheduled to check on the car again in couple days later.
    While the car was overheating and I checked on the new fan clutch. The new fan clutch was as weak as the old ones, very soft, and practically there was no resistance at all. I still think there might be something that is controlling the clutch and perhaps it is not working properly??? Based on the clutch manual, the clutch should run faster with some resistance when it detects hot air. Does this sound right to anyone?

    Back to dealer on the next appointed schedule and left the car there over night for more troubleshooting. This time, dealer replaced and tested with a new thermostat. It was no good either, still running hot & overheating. Since the new clutch is no help for this problem, they put my old clutch back and did little more diagnose. Now they have come to a conclusion that the car needs to be replaced with a new head gasket. This is just shocking me a great deal and it is the least problem I was hoping for. I don’t see/notice any leaks on either internal or external and neither the dealer found any leaks. So can that be possible for a bad head gasket if there’s no obvious leak? If I want to have it done, it’s gonna cost me big, est. $1500-$2K.
    I am still debating on the decision and also have lost the credibility from the dealer. Because what they did to my car is basically the same kind of work that I’ve already tried, which I told them before. They also charged me $235.00 without fixing the problem. Do you think this is reasonable or I got ripped off here?

    My observation- I don’t see or feel any obvious behavior changes on my car. It runs and drives strong. As I can see, the overheating is not severe yet (I think). It happens mostly when the weather is warm/hot after 30 mins drive or off the Hway. When the gage gets to about ¾ on the temp-dial, I’d turn the air control to hot then the gage will stay in middle for a long time. I’m still driving to/from work, less than 20 miles each way. I see no evident leak in either oil or coolant. I am not by any means an abusive driver. The car has just slightly over 100K miles and is still very young for the so called ‘quality’ of Toyota’s engine. Therefore, the head gasket problem is still a doubt on my part. But if it’s really a bad head gasket then I will make it worse if I keep on driving…

    A month prior to the overheating problem, all the belts have been replaced with new belts, including the timing belt and the water pump. Henceforth, I noticed the engine runs softer and quieter. As the matter of fact, it uses less gas. But before the belts were replaced, I noticed the humming sound of the fan used to be very loud at accelerations. I don’t hear much of the humming sound any more. The overheating began to happen a on a long trip of 6 hrs drive, which was about a month after the belts replace. So I don’t believe it has anything to do with the belts? If it does, I supposed the dealer would probably detect it??

    This problem has been ongoing so long and I’m desperately needed for a resolution. Anyone have any previous experience with this similar problem or suggestions, it’s most welcome and appreciated.

    I just also have learned that the head gasket symptom seems to be commonly happened with 95 4runner. If it’s supposed to be that way then my luck is seemed very slim. :cry:

    4Sale, any taker?
    Wangs04
  • Iwangs,

    Funny, I was just about to post a message to you asking how things worked out.

    Sorry you have not found the solution and a moderate cost fix. Do you remember I suggested a month or two ago to have a cylinder leak down (leakage) test done? The test is not expensive and will pinpoint if you have any internal coolant or exhaust leaks (both) of which can cause your overheating problem without any external signs. Take it to a shop that does this kind of work (it will be cheaper than Toyota). If it proves out to be as I first suspected you will have to make your decision then. At least you'll know for sure what you're dealing with and what it will cost to truly fix. If you need to change the head gasket(s), I assume it is a V6; you can get a valve job included with only the machine shop work on the heads as extra cost. You may want to mill the heads anyway if the head gasket was blown.

    I don't think $235 is excessive, given Toyota's labor rates. They spent time on your truck diagnosing the problem and installing the fan clutch. Your labor is a lot cheaper (grin).

    At least do the cylinder leak down test. I still think you have an internal leak (coolant or exhaust), your symptoms certainly point to this. Good luck with it.

    Take care
  • I would agree with that statement...which is why I purchased a Toyota in the first place. But this is coming from a long line of problems I've had since I've owned the vehicle. For instance...I drove off the lot...radio didn't work properly...turns out it was defective...so then we took it back...they replaced the defective radio...but they failed to attach the wires to the steering wheel so I can adjust stations/volume from the wheel. Had to go back again. The alarmI had installed...went haywire after a month...it would go off every 10 minutes (I thought our neighbors were going to kill us after about an hour)...they replaced a defective alarm. Our dome light in the trunk also broken when we bought it...they had to replace that as well. The rear windshield wiper also doesn't work property...the blade doesn't wipe the full scope of the rear window. So to top it all off....my master cylinder was replaced. I've spent more time at the dealership service center than I'd like....especially for a new car...so I am frustrated....and would like to be educated on why my NEW car is such a mess!!! I am not happy that it was "taken care of under warrenty!" You must have a better answer than that. How about all the time that I've lost? That can't be replaced under warranty.
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