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Toyota 4Runner Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • bmw323isbmw323is Member Posts: 410
    I have found my trip computer to calcualte MPG about 1-2 MPG higher than the real number as calculated by me.

    I had a rattle that I thought was coming from the front passenger door. My girlfriend thought is was coming from the front drivers door. It turned out to be my sunglasses in the holder. Just shows how deceiving the sounds of very slight rattles can be.
  • oscarz2oscarz2 Member Posts: 153
    My computer is also 2-3 mpg optimistic. I get about 16 (V6), mostly city and computer displays 18-19.
  • asif1asif1 Member Posts: 49
    The logic behind MPG display in trip computer is as follows.

    The Computer detects the fuel amount in the tank and it is multiplied by max MPG you can have to display no of miles you can drive. In the Trip Computer Software a Linear relationship talbe is stored b/w Speed and MPG, this table is obtained by plotting a graph b/w speed and MPG to determine MPG at different speeds. This must have been done by toyota at pre-production testing. The Trip computer keeps on averaging the miles driven to find out which current MPG value it should use from linear relation b/w MPG and Speed.

    (However the graph is not linear all the way as it starts declining after 55-60 MPH, Also while determining relationship b/w speed and fuel usage, the engine is not tested at every single mile, the graph is extended or extrapolated to find out MPG in certain mile range, which by itself induces some room for error)

    The only way to get very acurate MPG from trip computer would be if you going on long trip and burn the whole tank. In that case you can see mileage exceeding 22, 23 MPG for V6 2WD, because the averaging error is lot less at cruising speeds.

    If you really want to check out MPG before every trip you have to reset the MPG and Avg Speed every time. However with combination of in-town, highway driving you should expect 2-3 mpg error. I am not sure what accuracy Toyota post for their MPG ( +/- ?) but there is always a second column with Observed MPG in most car magazines and discussions.

    Plz correct me if i am wrong in my theory anwhere.

    asif
  • woodyr1woodyr1 Member Posts: 142
    The 2004 4Runners have this feature as standard equipment. Has anyone changed rims (such as winter rims), installed conventional rubber valves, and had to deal with a flashing or steady illuminated dash lamp indicating a malfunction in the TPMS system?

    Thanks
  • tucci24tucci24 Member Posts: 2
    I've also heard rattle on passenger side near door in 04 V8 Ltd. With people in the rear seats a rattle seemed to be comming from the rear of the truck on the drivers side. Has anyone taken to a dealer for similar problems?
  • tucci24tucci24 Member Posts: 2
    Has anyone experimented with regular unleaded compared to premium unleaded on V8 4runner? I tried a tank of premium and seemed to run a little smoother, but gas mileage wasn't much different than on regular.
  • alfster1alfster1 Member Posts: 273
    "rattle seemed to be comming from the rear of the truck on the drivers side"

    - you may have a rattle coming from the rear left compartment housing the emergency tools. Check to see that all items are properly stowed. You may wish to wrap any exposed metal tools with a shop towel to reduce any rattling.
  • oscarz2oscarz2 Member Posts: 153
    Could be the rear seat latch, a common issue on the new 4runners. Dealer may lube or replace it but a piece of tape works too. The latch clamps onto a metal hoop (seen when pulling seat-back forward). Wrap a piece of tape around front of metal hoop, so when the seat latches onto it, it wont move around.
  • nick4597nick4597 Member Posts: 50
    I have an 03 SR5 and the seats are painfully hard... any recommendations for car seat covers, seat cushions that add cushioning without being too ugly? Thanks.
  • nedzelnedzel Member Posts: 787
    We've had several large snow storms here in Boston, so I've had a chance to drive my 2003 4Runner in the snow. Mine has the Dunlops, which aren't great tires.

    In general, I haven't had any problems with it. It does have a tendency to be a bit tail-happy under acceleration, but then the skid-control comes in with a bit of a heavy hand. One morning we had an ice storm and the back started to come around on me in a corner. It came back very easily with a bit of counter steer. If you don't know how to counter steer your way out of a skid, then you don't know how to drive in snow...

    Acceleration from a stop (both on level roads and going uphill) on snow-covered roads was just fine. In fact, a bit too good. The traction in snow is good enough that it is very easy to not realize just how slippery it is. You'll find out just how slippery it is when you try to stop and or corner. Like many SUVs, I think it is easy to get over-confident in the snow in the 4Runner and get yourself into trouble. Slow down, leave yourself plenty of room, and use smooth, gentle inputs to the throttle, brake, and steering wheel.

    On a couple occasions I had to drive over and through 1 1/2 foot snow banks left by snowplows. The 4Runner went through without any problem at all.

    Next year I will probably spring for dedicated snow tires. Your brakes stop the wheels, but the tires stop the truck. Dedicated snow tires certainly aren't necessary, but will give an added factor of safety.
  • dolphin4dolphin4 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2003 V8 4runner with 8,000 +/- miles, and run mobil one oil. I recently let my car sit for 3-4 days while on a trip. When I returned and started the car I got a very loud metallic hammering sound for 3 - 4 seconds, then the car started. This sound can best be described as a hammer on an anvil. Once the car started the noise disappeared. I stopped the motor and checked the fluids - everything seemed fine. I restarted the motor and ran the car for a few days hoping the problem would come back. No such luck. I tried leaving the car at the dealership for three days, then having them start it. Once again, no luck. The dealership mechanics thought it might be an oil related problem, with the mobil one draining down in the engine and taking a little while to recirculate on the restart after a several day break. This sounded wrong to me - a little clattering would make sense, but not the loud metal on metal sounds. Does anyone have any idea on this one? I hate the idea of driving my new car waiting for it to strand me somewhere. Thank you.
  • sacstate1sacstate1 Member Posts: 189
    You just described the nightmare I have with running synthetic oil. I used synthetic once and the engine clattered like you described. I hate the finger pointing that Toyota does when it comes to an oil. If it is API certified does it matter? MB and other MFG's use Mobil 1 as stock oil, maybe they have a different oil delivery system than our Runner?

    IMHO, I would switch back to dino oil and change your oil at 3-4,000 mile intervals, you won't notice any difference between the dino and synthetic changing that often(mechanically).

    B4 the flame starts, I am not an advocate of synthetic oil, I don't care who recommends it. I used it once and had a similar experience as this.
  • rogers12rogers12 Member Posts: 140
    Your oil had nothing to do with your noise.
  • darbowdarbow Member Posts: 30
    Im in the market to buy a 4Runner, i dont want to spend over 20k but want less than 65k miles. Any year better than anyother? thanks.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    I dunno - there's was a thread over in Synthetic oil in my new engine? or Engine Oil - A slippery subject Part 2 about synthetic gear oil not climbing the gears very well. Sacstate1's theory doesn't sound all that far fetched to me.

    Love the oil wars :-)

    Steve, Host
  • dolphin4dolphin4 Member Posts: 3
    The noise I heard was not something mild like the lifters clattering. It was a hard wham-wham-wham metal on metal sound. I have run Mobil One in several vehicles and never had a problem. I don't think this is an oil issue, but something mechanical that will show up again at some point. It would be nice to find it before it leaves me or my family by the side of the road, however. Anyone have any ideas?
  • ckdexterckdexter Member Posts: 12
    If the issue that you are describing is lubrication related, you may want to take a look at:
    http://www.chevron.com/prodserv/ehl/engineoilspecs.htm#viscosity
    From what I read on this board, I understand that certain Toyota dealers use 10W-30 when they change the oil instead of the recommended 5W-30.
  • oscarz2oscarz2 Member Posts: 153
    I just got my first oil change at 2,800 mi and the dealer used 10W30. It appears they overfilled it too, so I'm guessing they used all 6 qts instead of 5.5.

    Being in AZ, I don't think it's a problem. The coldest it gets this time of year where I live is about 40. It doesn't sound or feel any different than before the oil change. I'll monitor fuel consumption and see what happens. I'll definitely use the thicker oil for the May-Sep period.
  • tfuzztfuzz Member Posts: 93
    My '03 V8 now has about 35,000 miles and was switched to Mobil 1 at 5,000. I experienced a noise that might be what you described some time ago--around 15,000 miles I'd guess. It only occurred once. At the time I thought it had something to do with the "crank-hold" feature as it seemed to be related to starting--perhaps all the cylinders weren't firing. It never happened again so I don't worry about it. I doubt that it had anything to do with the oil.
  • sacstate1sacstate1 Member Posts: 189
    My dealer in central NC uses 10-30 oil. I inquired about their using 10-30, when Toy recommends 5-30. They said with our environment, lowest is mid-teens, the 10-30 is fine.

    Is this just BS? I offered to bring my own brand and weight of oil (5-30) during the next change, they looked at me like I was some sort of freak.

    I have had issues with this dealer in the past, so I am not surprised. BTW...the other Toy dealer in town is a flatout thief and should not be in business, they are doing Toyota a dis-service representing the brand.
  • pat84pat84 Member Posts: 817
    See my post about my dealer's dis-Service Dept. in the 4 Runner forum.
  • scootnyscootny Member Posts: 8
    I have ~ 2.5K on my '03 V8 - Should I wait for an indicator to get the oil changed / vehicle serviced - or just go by the printed service guidelines.

    When should you get your first service?
  • pat84pat84 Member Posts: 817
    How long have you had your 03 ?
     I would go by the owners manual for time or mieage. The service light coms on at 7500 mile increments which is maximum milage for oil changes. I do my changes at 5K mile intervals.
  • sacstate1sacstate1 Member Posts: 189
    I did my first at 2,200 and every 4-5,000 thereafter.
  • scootnyscootny Member Posts: 8
    I purchased the vehicle new in the 1st week of November.

    Sounds like it's about time to contact the service center for an oil change. Thanks for the response.
  • nick4597nick4597 Member Posts: 50
    I had my first change at 4k miles and my second at around 9500. I usually go roughtly 4-5k miles before an oil change. Have done so with all my older cars and NEVER had a problem. The oil-change industry and dealerships love keeping it at 3000 miles for an oil change, but going a few thousand miles over that is harmless as many automotive experts have stated over the past few years.
  • rogers12rogers12 Member Posts: 140
    Although many vehicles can extend the oil-change interval beyond 3K, if you drive the vehicle so as to stress the oil (many short runs that don't allow the oil to get hot for a while, or very cold climate, or even some normal engines that place a great stress on the oil, etc.) then extending the oil-change interval is risky. Not all driving patterns/vehicles are forgiving in this way.

    Each individual needs to evaluate their driving patterns and experience with their oil and engine to determine what is suitable for them. It is always better to err on the side of too many oil changes than to risk wearing out your engine because of poor oil-change habit. When it comes to oil changes, there is no set rule or generalization that applies to everyone.

    Using synthetic oils will permit longer oil-change intervals, but you have to evaluate the cost in with this convenience.
  • dogwingdogwing Member Posts: 11
    I have a 2003 SR5, V6, 4X4 and I am getting a constant rattle from the drivers side seat/shoulder belt retractor mechanism. When I hit a bump it makes an annoying loud rattle. I can hold the area with my hand and I get no rattle. Has anyone experienced this problem and if so what can be done to eliminate it? Any help would be appreciated because my hand is getting numb holding the damn thing.......Jay of Va Beach
  • asif1asif1 Member Posts: 49
    Guys,

    I changed oil at 3k miles on my 2004 4Runner V6 2WD, just to be on safe side, incase the break-in of engine has left some tiny metal shavings. My MAINT lite has come on exactly on 5k miles. Does the Service technician need to reset some thing or the light comes on every 5 k miles. BTW my toyota dealer put 10W40. i was surprised but i did'nt ask why. i hope it wont have that much of bad impact. i am convinced that for new engine, a lighter visocity oil will give better lubrication, specially in winters and in cold start.

    your input will be appreciated

    asif
  • alfster1alfster1 Member Posts: 273
    5W-30 is the recommended type of oil for the 4Runner for the best fuel economy and cold weather starts. 10W30 can be used, but should be changed out for 5W30 at the next oil change. Always specify the lighter weight oil because most shops will instinctively use 10w30.

    To reset the oil maintenance light, refer to page 121 of the owner's manual.
  • glb2glb2 Member Posts: 14
    I just purchased an SR5 V6 4WD. It has 650 miles on it. When its first started, I hear a ticking sound that appears to be coming from an area just below the fan. I haven't really taken a close look yet. I sounds like it becomes quieter area driving awhile. Any ideas?
  • oscarz2oscarz2 Member Posts: 153
    I have yet to hear a 4runner V6 (03 or 04) that doesn't make the same noise. You will hear different theories as to what it is but appparently it's designed this way. Mine sounds like it is near the fan area also. If you drink a lot of Saki, it sounds neat.
  • ddw5ddw5 Member Posts: 23
    I actually took mine in thinking there was a leak in the exhaust header. In the end, it seems it's either the injector's firing (dealer's explanation) or a thin/unsheilded exhaust header that let's some engine noise through. I tend to think it's the latter and fortunately don't really notice it anymore.
  • doctdoct Member Posts: 20
    A friend of mine ask me to post. She seems to have a brake problem. At temps below zero F within the first 10 brakes after starting the brake pedal will refuse to depress and will only respond to frantic pumping, then the brakes will work fine. This happened last year at below 0, and toyota said they never heard of it. I assume the vehicle is not warmed up when this occurs.

    Any ideas of similar experiences? thanks doct
  • tfm1tfm1 Member Posts: 5
    asif1
    The owners manual has the procedure to reset the light. I don't remember the page but I think its in the index.
  • pat84pat84 Member Posts: 817
    My theory is that there may be water in the brake fluid. I would suggest that the fluid be bled out and new fluid put in.
  • sacstate1sacstate1 Member Posts: 189
    'My theory is that there may be water in the brake fluid. I would suggest that the fluid be bled out and new fluid put in.'

    Good point. Brake fluid is designed to absorb any H2O. As such, you should flush your brakes every few years. If you look at old brake fluid under a microscope you can see tiny water droplets suspended in the fluid. This causes the freezing of the H2O and lessened brake capability.
  • aggiedogaggiedog Member Posts: 238
    I lugged a 24' extension ladder on top and had no problems. I used the straps with a ratchet lock (What's a truckers hitch Steve?). I wouldn't try it with bungee cords because of their elasticity.

    Just curious. My 2000 Ltd factory roof rack has a 165lb weight limit. Anyone know why the limit dropped off so much?
  • john609john609 Member Posts: 10
    Looking for some help. The owner's manual for the 4Runner indicates 2 liters or 2.1 qts of transmission fluid for replacement / refill. Is this correct or a typo? My 97 avalon uses 3.7 - you would figure around 4 qts for a truck of this size.
  • rogers12rogers12 Member Posts: 140
    The difference you're seeing in the capacities might be the difference between a complete fluid replace and just replacing what you lose by draining the pan. The torque converter holds alot of fluid and is not drained by pulling the pan.
  • john609john609 Member Posts: 10
    Thank you - that helps.
  • tangmantangman Member Posts: 127
    Has anyone experienced the check engine light coming on sporadically, approximately once a month when you start the vehicle. Usually, after a few starts, it goes off. The 99 4-Runner has 35K miles on it and otherwise runs fine. I can not make the light go on. Usually, the dealer can only do something if it stays on, and in this case it is very infrequent. Some have suggested it may be dirt on an oxygen sensor, but this is only a guess

    Any thoughts or similar experiences.

    Tangman
  • falcon74falcon74 Member Posts: 67
    I just purchased a '04 Sport V8. I have noticed a resonance in the steering wheel when I accelerate. Is this normal?
  • pat84pat84 Member Posts: 817
    I have an 03 Sport V-8. No, it is not normal. Take it to your dealer and get them to make it right.
  • pulisubspulisubs Member Posts: 39
    I have a strange problem when I start my 97 Limited in the morning:

    It cranks up fine, and when I shift to Drive, the thing doesn't move. I have to step on the gas a little bit. If I haven't used the truck in a couple of days, I have to really step on it. And when it eventually moves, there's a noise that sounds like something has been holding it back and it now has been released. This has been happening only overnights. When I start it in the evening after a 8-9 hr break in the office, it moves fine.

    Any clue what could be going on?
  • canddmeyercanddmeyer Member Posts: 410
    IF you live where it gets really cold & you have been using the parking (emergency?) brake, it may be sticking (freezing) to the drum. Just don't use it til the weather warms up.
  • pulisubspulisubs Member Posts: 39
    Thanks for the response. Fortunately, I live in Orlando, where at most it gets down to higher 40s at night, and the car is in the Garage, where it'd probably be high 50s.

    And I don't use the Parking brake. I did notice today that I had the vehicle idling for about 4 mins before I actually put it in Drive, and did not have the problem. I'll research a little more and post updates again.
  • apostalapostal Member Posts: 1
    I have an annoying crunching noise in the drivers side front end. Have taken it back to the dealer 7 times. The last time I actually thought that they fixed the problem but no such luck. The last time I took it in they loosened all the body mounts and then lowered it to the ground so it could settle. Then they tightened it back up. It lasted about 3,ooo miles and came back. Just before it came back I had the tires rotated. Does anyone else have this problem? Any comments would be greatly appreciated.
  • Galileo757Galileo757 Member Posts: 37
    Just performed my first oil change on the 2003 4 Runner V8 engine. Here is a step by step procedures I use for wantnabee oil changers.
    PS, Thanks to Joebriun for the initial help on oil filter and plug location and tips!

    Step 1 = Open hood.
    Step 2 = Remove front skip plate, secured by 4 12mm bolts, let back end hang down, then pull out the plate which has 2 front alignment/safety tabs holding the skid plate from dropping off.
    Step 3 = slightly loosen oil filter with oil filter strap wrench. The location of the oil filter is driver side and right behind the front stabilizer bar.
    Step 4 = Loosen the 14mm oil drain plug. The location of the plug is below the 2nd skip plate which has a oval access door, pry door off with a screw driver.
    Step 5 = Start engine for 2 to 3 minutes to allow the oil to heat up, then shut off engine.
    Step 6 = Remove oil plug and drain oil.
    Step 7 = Torque oil plug with gasket in place and install access door.
    Step 8 = Remove old oil filter and install new oil filter with o-ring lubricated. Make sure the old o-ring is with the removed old oil filter.
    Step 9 = Tighten new oil filter 3/4 to 1 turn after initial contact with oil filter base.
    Step 10 = Install front skip plate.
    Step 11 = Add oil, I initially added 5 quarts and later added 1 more quart for a total of 6.
    Step 12 = Check yellow oil dip stick level indicator.
    Step 13 = Start engine for 2 to 3 minutes.
    Step 14 = Shut off engine.
    Step 15 = Check oil dip stick level, add if needed.
    Step 16 = Start engine for 5 to 10 minutes to check for oil leaks.
    Step 17 = Shut off engine and re-check oil dip stick level again and close hood.
    Time spent on oil change is approximately 30 minutes.
    Why I do this is the job gets done right with TLC and no mistakes, hopefully... lol
    I know there are a lot of horror stories behind oil change facilities and rather not be part of it.
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