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Toyota 4Runner Maintenance and Repair



  • ecodocecodoc Posts: 1

    I read all the messages here and am not able to find the answer to this questions.
    I too have a 99 limited w/75k miles with a button on the 4x4 lever for engaging the center differential. The problem is I cannot get the indicator light to stop flashing and get it into a 4WD mode. I brought it to the dealer and he said there is NO PROBLEM. Any suggestion please?
  • Yeah, that's kinda what I was thinking. However, since I was a one-man show in this parking lot, it was too tricky for me to turn the engine and play with the cables at the same time. I thought about getting a remote bump-starter, but BUYING stuff is always a last resort ;)

    Anyhow, I popped off the dist cap, and the rotor underneath had quite a bit of carbon on it. I also looked like a wire brush had been taken to the top of it before. So, following suit, I scrubbed the top of that guy off agin with a wire brush. Mmm, shiny and new. Put it all together, and it started right up.

    I'm still not entirely convinced that THAT is what solved this problem. It seems as though it could have been vapor lock. Vapor lock for over 48 hours though?
  • chankinschankins Posts: 1
    I was happy to see someone else so disappointed with Dunlop tires. We bought our 99 4Runner when it had 60k on it, and it now has 155k. The tires still have some tread left (I'm told they're actually slightly oversized for the vehicle thus less tread wear from the weight of the truck) but they've had problems staying in balance and now at least one has a serious case of runout. I've been balancing and rotating quite a bit just to keep from going crazy.
    Back to the truck itself. I love the vehicle, everything except the brake system. I've just put another set of front brake rotors on today, replacing the ones I put on in March 2004. They were so far out of whack that the whole car shook when you hit the brakes at any speed over 30 mph. Is there something about this vehicle that wears out brake rotors so fast?
    I also get that "clunk" when I let off the brakes from a stop. It does feel like something is releasing the brakes, as if they got locked down when I applied them to stop. Doesn't do it all the time, but I'll definitely take the other writer's advice about lubing the driveline.
    I look forward to hearing any other tales of faulty brake systems, since I don't plan to sell the vehicle just yet, I just wanted to make sure I'm not alone...
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,687
    Not only have I never heard of 4Runners having problems with vapor lock, I also have NEVER heard of vapor lock continuing to be a problem once the engine was cold in any vehicle (used to have an old VW van that had problems like crazy with vapor lock - I would always bring a good book wherever I went). So - 48 hours? I would think not.

    Get that rotor worn down too much with one too many wire brush scrubbings, and it wouldn't take much to stop the engine from starting - the tips of the rotor don't have a lot of margin for doing their thing. Makes a good $10 investment (go for the whole $15 and get a new cap too! :-)) if you are having starting problems.

    Lastly, my old Celica (fuel-injected with in-tank pump) did this to me twice before the fuel pump failed. Both times the pump gave it one more try after I waited a day, then the third time it laid down and quit for good. Guess it was trying to tell me something. So it still might have been the pump. Good luck!

    ecodoc: if you have a constantly flashing dash light and your dealer says "NO PROBLEM" then either he is totally incompetent and you should have gone elsewhere years ago, or he doesn't understand what problem you are trying to report. The light is not supposed to keep flashing when you engage 4WD. Go for a drive with the service writer, and demonstrate the problem for him/her. And don't ever let the dealer off with such a dumb answer again - if you know it's a problem, then there has obviously been a miscommunication somewhere.

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • 4run4play4run4play Posts: 1

    I have a 1999 Toyota 3.4L V6 SR5 4WD (manual transmission). 2 years ago, my "Check Engine" light came on. I've been ignoring it for a long time (almost 40,000 miles!) but now I need to get my Mass. Inspection sticker, so I need to fix it.

    Going to an "Autozone" auto parts store, they hooked up the diagnostic connector on my 4Runner to their OBD II handheld diagnostic device. The device indicates the error codes were 1135 and 0125. Inside the store, they can look up the codes on their computer. Assuming you always add a P to the code, they are:

    P1135: "Pedal position sensor A circuit intermittent".
    P0125: "Insufficient coolant temperature for closed loop fuel control".

    Let’s start with the first one: P1135.
    Huh??? I have heard of a "Throttle position sensor", which is located under the hood on the throttle body, and detects the throttle position. Does anyone know if the "Pedal position sensor A" is the same thing as the “Throttle position sensor”?I want to be sure. I looked on the OBDII home page, and I could not find error code P1135 listed! Since the first “1” in 1135 indicates “manufacturer”, and a “0” in that position indicates “SAE (Society of Auto Engineers)”, I’m thinking that 1135 is a special code specific to Toyota and not the general OBDII codes for all vehicles. The closest OBDII code I found was:

    P0124 Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Intermittent

    So, I’m not sure what P1135 really means, since P0124 has the same meaning according to the ODBII diagnostic code table.

    If I assume the description of 1135 on the computer at Autozone was inaccurate, and I try to match 1135 with the ODBII diagnostic code table, the closest match is P0135, which is:

    P0135 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

    Though, I had the codes checked a month ago (after neglecting them for 2 years), and the code P0120 was stored, along with 1133, 1135, and P0125. P0120 is:

    P0120 Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Malfunction

    So, does anyone know if I have a real problem with my Throttle Position Sensor (“TPS”)? Or, does is there really a problem with the O2 Sensor Heater Circuit (assuming the code P0135 is what I should go by)? I was thinking that because of the next code P0125.

    Another confusing thing. For code p0125, The computer at Autozone, as well as the IDBII Diagnostic code table, has this:

    P0125 Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Fuel Control

    My coolant temperature has been fine, and the level is fine. However, when I looked in a service manual (by “Haynes”), that same code is listed like this:

    P0125 O2 Sensor heater circuit fault.

    Wow – could this be my pre-catalytic converter Oxygen Sensor failing? What’s up with the strange description “Insufficient Coolant Temerature for Closed Loop Fuel Control”?

    Anyway, if anyone has any experience with these error codes, I’d appreciate the help. Also, if it does turn out to be the O2 Sensor, what are the odds I’ve ruined my catalytic converters? I have two, since the vehicle is California Emissions.

    I want to do as much as I can on my own, because I do not trust the Toyota dealerships, and they are expensive!!
  • mnokymnoky Posts: 1
    Hello, 97 4runner limited 198k miles. Have mild vibration only when accelerating or cruising. As soon as you let off gas vib goes away.
  • goshenbobgoshenbob Posts: 4
    I've got good news and I've got bad news.

    The good news is that the parts are in to repair my moonroof.

    The bad news is that the dealer says they need my 4Runner for 3 days. Maybe they're planning on painting the vehicle while they've got it in the shop?

    Can't wait to see what loaner car they'll try to stick me with this time.

    Is is me or does anyone else dread bringing in their cars to the dealer? I'll keep you posted on my developments.
  • I get the same clunk. The dealer took it for a ride in the parking lot. He notice the clunk after a little help and encouragement to believe problems do exit. He said it was the drivetrain lagging between a stop and go. He said it was normal.

    I asked him if he could lube the yoke as suggested by Polartoy. The dealer says they don't typically do this till 35,000 km or so. I only had 19,000 km. He said he'll do it anyways, even though its not really a warranty thing.

    It didn't make a difference. Either he was pulling my leg and did not lube it or did a poor job at lubing. He said he'll look to see if there is a Transmission programming update.

    The clunk does not always occur prior to acceleration from stop. It occurs also when you do a rolling stop. Then you'll feel a clunk as if some lightly rear ended you.

    I'm clueless.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,687
    that could be a lot of things, from an engine or transmission mount going bad to driveline lash, to...all sorts of things. That can only be diagnosed by someone experienced who is driving the thing and focusing on the vibration.

    4run4play: it is all about sensors. The FI has a sensor to tell it how warm the coolant is and adjust accordingly, and it sounds like yours may have given up the ghost. The pedal sensor message doesn't sound smog-related, but still important. Actually, it sounds like a warning a drive-by-wire throttle might generate, but that model wasn't yet drive-by-wire in '99 was it? I can't remember. It certainly is for 2003 and up.

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • tophat58tophat58 Posts: 1
    Friday, 7/1 I took my family on an extended trip in our '94 4Runner. About 20 miles from our destination, the "check engine" light came on. Almost immediately afterward, the engine started to lose power. We pulled off the road, and as the car came to a stop all the warning lights lit up and smoke started pouring out from under the hood and through the vents into the passenger compartment. I had the whole family get out of the vehicle and we stood off to the side. I was expecting the smoke to start dissipating once the engine cooled down, but instead, the smoke thickened and small pieces of burning material started falling out of the front of the engine compartment.
    The fire quickly spread into the passenger compartment. By that time I had called 911 and a good samaritan with a fire extinguisher had stopped and tried unsuccessfully to put out the fire. It took about 10 minutes for the first fireman to arrive. By then, most of the car was already engulfed in flames. 5 minutes later the rest of the fire company arrived and began to get the fire extinguished. By that time, the entire car had been burned to a shell.
    I have two observations about this: 1.) Thank God the gas tank never caught fire. The fire burned all around it. Both rear tires, the spare, and everything else in the rear of the vehicle were reduced to ashes. 2.) I was dismayed at the speed with which the fire breached the rear of the engine compartment. The car had a slow oil leak and the lower section of the engine block had deposits of old oil clinging to it. I'm sure this make things worse. Still, we had precious little time.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    I'm sorry to hear of your misfortune. Thank goodness no one was hurt.

    The car had a slow oil leak and the lower section of the engine block had deposits of old oil clinging to it.

    I am surprised that wasn't discovered during routine maintenance.

    tidester, host
  • rnbwtroutrnbwtrout Posts: 1
    My '90 4runner refused to shift this morning after turning a corner and I had to drive it home the whole time like that. The RPM just keeps climbing and I get no power. It seems like the automatic transmission is stuck in 1st gear. It's been sitting for about a week since I was out of town... Anyone have this problem before?
  • gumby2gumby2 Posts: 5
    I've just got bad news. I was told last Friday that my parts won't be in until July 8. Who knows how long they'll take to actually perform the repair.

    On the upside, I've been putting a hell of a lot of miles on that Highlander they loaned me.
  • polartoypolartoy Posts: 18
    The greasing of the slip yokes does work. I have had it done on three forerunners so far. Sometimes they do a poor job of it and has to be redone. However when done right, the clunk is gone for quite a while. In Vancouver, they have started to do this on every oil change without asking, so you know there is a minor problem and many complaints.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,687
    Hate to say it, but that is a classic sign of an automatic transmission whose time on this planet is done. HOWEVER, if you are lucky, it just needs a good flush and refill - also clean the filter inside. Take it to one of those places that advertises a "power flush" of the transmission, get all the junk out and the filter cleaned, then cross your fingers when you drive out of there.

    I am assuming this happened when it was cold, and from the very start it was not shifting? If it was shifting fine, then all of a sudden during the drive it stopped shifting, that is something else. Like maybe the shift linkage, hard to say from here.

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • siedorasiedora Posts: 1
    My 4runner is doing the same thing. Did you find out what the problem was?

  • marchanmarchan Posts: 3
    I Own a 2004 4 runner sport edition the other day I decided to change the oil and oil filter, then the maint. light came on, I read somewhere in this forum some members were told to read the owner manual ,which would tell you how to re-set that light,I read the 409 pages and there is nothing on how to re-set that light,I want to avoid going to the dealer,Anybody can help me with this issue ,thank you for your time.
  • marchanmarchan Posts: 3
    I have the same car but my problem is with the Maint. light, I can find a way to turn it off sorry this can not help you
  • goshenbobgoshenbob Posts: 4
    We have the same vehicle. While I don't know which page the reference is on, it is in there.

    Here's what you need to do - it's simple.

    1) Before you start your engine, press (and keep pressed) the Odometer button (not the trip button) on your dashboard.

    2) Insert your key into the ignition and start the engine. In 2-3 seconds, the MAINT light will flash several times and disappear.

    I've got 26K miles on my vehicle so I've done this 5 times so far.

    Hope this helps.
  • goshenbobgoshenbob Posts: 4
    Here's my latest dilema. The dealership I initially purchased my vehicle from was bought out by a competitor. Since that time, the service department has used the excuse that they've been too swamped to get programs set up or that the new dealership has graciously agreed to take care of my problem.

    When they called to tell me my parts were in, I was informed that I would need to leave my car with them for 2-3 days. When I called to set up a time, I asked them if they'd be able to set me up with a loaner. Long story short, I was told that it was the policy of the new dealership that they didn't offer loaner cars.

    I've gotten tired of dealing with these "professionals". I called another dealership, explained my situation and was informed that it was Toyota's policy that a customer having warranty work done which required an overnite stay would receive a loaner car. I guess my former dealership didn't get that memo.

    As a result, I'm starting the process over and bringing my car in to my new dealership in the morning. Not surprisingly, they'll even give me a ride to work and pick me up after they're done looking at my car - as it should be.

    A word of warning to anyone in the Northeast who's thinking about doing business with LIA TOYOTA - think twice. I have not found them to be customer friendly when it comes to such basic tasks as warranty work.
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