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Toyota 4Runner Maintenance and Repair



  • Hi Mike -

    Glad to know im not insane. Though Im not as tall as you, (Im 6'0") I have a longer torsoe and think this is probably the main problem (my head is close the headliner/sunroof sunshade). I tried lowering the seat and it seems to have helped SLIGHTLY, but it is not a comfortable driving postion (being so low in front of the dash). I like sitting up high which is the main reason im a big fan of SUVs. Otherwise, I would have bought a sedan or wagon (and saved on gas too!!!).

    Now that I've recognized the problem and still after 2 months I wish i was back in my '93 4runner, I have the same alarms when I come to an intersection. I make a very noticable effort to peak around the rear-view mirrow before I accelerate. Its kind of annoying, but im afraid im going to run over a kid or someone I dont see coming. I would love to just rip the rear view mirror off and throw it away, but that wouldnt be safe either i suppose.

    This is probably the one time in my life I wish i was a tad-bit shorter. I hope this doesnt turn out to be a $37K mistake.

  • Anyone having a problem with the hood protector coming loose on the ends? I have a 2005 4Runner Limited and the hood protector was installed by the dealer. First time the driver side came loose. The next time both ends came loose. A month later the drivers side was loose again. It is fixed under warranty but I do not understand why this is happening. The service writer made a comment that my 4Runner is the only one having this problem. I had a 97 Limited and for eight years never had a problem with the hood protector.....thanks.
  • I recently bought a 1996 4runner 4wd Limited and put new floormats in it. As I took out the old ones I noticed the carpet was damp...not soaking wet, just damp on the passengers side. It was only lightly damp but it was spread over most of the bottom of the floomat and not just in one small place. I first thought it was the heater core but it didnt smell like anti freeze and when the heat is turned on it doesnt smell like antifreeze either. I looked behind the carpet toward the front of the floorboard and up into the firewall but saw no signs of leaking from back there either. Any ideas?
  • It could be that a windshield replacement job was botched. I had a similar problem. There was a tiny leak and it had to be re-replaced at the glass company's expense. Check to see if the windshield has the original Toyota logo on the glass. I'm guessing at that age of vehicle, it has been replaced at least once or twice already. You might be able to run a hose over the windshield and look up in the dash with a flashlight for a leak.
  • I will check it but there has been no rain here in a long time and I havent been thru the car wash lately. Is there anyway it could be making the moisture...maybe the ac condensation leaking in someway? This baffles me.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    when people note a damp floor board they should immediately consider that their A/C evaporator has a clogged or crimped drain tube.

    of course, it could be a faulty window or door seal or weld.

    the AC evaporator drain theory can be verified if the car is left running, placed in park (brake also applied) with the AC running... one looks under the front of the vehicle (from the side, you don't have to nor should you be looking underneath the car from the front of the vehicle) but one doesn't see water draining to the road surface, or perhaps it is draining at a very slow rate.

    in some vehicles, because of the location of the evaporator and the depth of the evap pan, with the AC on, i believe as they make right- or left-hand turns, they often hear what sounds like water running onto a hot skillet. perhaps this is the water in the pan getting super cooled by the evap coils.

    if you've got a really bad problem, when you make your turns and you glance down at the foot well area, you're likely to see water running onto the mats and carpeting.

    if you suspect your issue is with improper AC evaporator drainage, you can have someone with a compressor shoot a blast of compressed air up through the drain line. often this is sufficient to clear blockage and stop moisture from reaching the floorboards. sometimes the problem returns though.

    it depends on how much debris is blocking the drain, or if the drain line is re-crimping, or if the drain line has become disconnected from the pan.

    always keep the vent area under your windshield wipers (seen with the hood up) free and clear from pine straw, leaves, acorn shells and other stuff comming off trees which might get into the inlet to your vent system. this will eventually make it to a low-point, probably near your drain.

    hope it helps.
  • That might be it. It is cool down here now and I havent run the a/c in a couple of days but it may be left over from the last time. I guess I will take out the floor mat and not run the a/c and see if it dries. That just about HAS to be it...if not, who knows? Thanks for the advice.
  • I am having problems with my 2005 4Runner that I purchased brand new in March of this year. My indicator lights kept flashing on periodically, and when I brought it in the first time, they told me that they couldn't duplicate the problem and I left with it...according to them...fine. Two weeks car literally died. It wouldn't drive....the indicator lights came on again...and my car felt like it was stuck in 1st when I tried to accelerate. Turns master cylinder was replaced. I have 10,000 miles on my could I possibly need my master cylinder replaced??? It was covered under warranty...but I'm upset that my car wasn't working properly the fist 6 months I owned it. Now my breaks actually work...well now I know what ABS feels breaking is sooo much smoother. I used to think the abrupt breaking feel was typical of a "sport" edition. Any thoughts? Have you heard of anyone else with this type of problem?

  • chuck1chuck1 Posts: 1,405
    When you look at the thousands of parts the typical SUV/Car has, is it really inconceivable that a bad part could make it through? I really think it's nothing to worry about....... Just be happy it was taken care of under warranty!
  • I have a 2005 Sport with 8k on the clock. On a couple of occassions exiting a sharp offramp and climbing on the brakes, has resulted in the inside front loosing grip on uneven surfaces, this would be expected. What is not expected is that once the ABS kicks in the brake pedal pressure dissappears and you are left holding onto the steering hoping to make the turn. The first time this happened most of the ignition lights came on and it fealt as if the car had died as I also lost some power steering, talk about fright of my life. This cant be normal and I first thought that cutting power etc had something to do with the VSC.
    Any comments?
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    tryspider, even though it is cooling down in Atlanta for example, try the test i suggested. with a clogged drain, you still may have appreciable water in the pan that on hard turns, you're going to soak your carpeting in the foot well area again.

    you want to try the alternate experiment which is OK by me. my experiment is quicker. ;)

    hey - don't you use your AC when it rains and your windshield fogs up?

    good luck.
  • gilvgilv Posts: 1
    ">I have a 2004 Toyota 4 Runner Sport. I purchased the truck wrecked (With a good title), and had it fixed. The job done was strictly body shop work (Left front door and fender were replaced). No mechanical parts were damaged. When I drove the truck I noticed a sporadic sudden stalling of the engine when driving at 30 to 40 miles per hour, and also a sporadic sudden locking of the front left tire at any speed. No warning lights are ever turned on when these problems happen.
    I took the Truck to the local Toyota "Dealer", and they are in effect doing everything possible not to take the truck and fix it. They are telling me that the only way to duplicate the problems, is by performing a computer diagnostic with the truck running, and they will not do it because is dangerous to drive. They can try to fix it going by an elimination process, but I will have to pay for their "elimination process" if they come out to be wrong.
    Under their conditions, for example, I will pay for a complete electrical wire check, take out the truck (I become their default, unpaid fearless test pilot) and see if the fix works, if it does not, I take the vehicle back, and try the speed sensors (non refundable once purchased), then repeat the process and if does not work, replace the ABS module, and so on, until they finally make the correct guess. They will not give me any warranty on any parts and labor... I just basically have to roll the dice, and hope that what is probably a simple problem to fix with a real mechanic in charge, does not end up costing me thousands because some clown is getting on the job training at my expense. Can any one tell me if they have the right as a Toyota dealer to expect the customer to pay for their "guesses" and not honor any warranties ? The Truck has a good title!!!, and can any one suggest what may be wrong with the truck?.
  • nedzelnedzel Posts: 787
    "What is not expected is that once the ABS kicks in the brake pedal pressure dissappears and you are left holding onto the steering hoping to make the turn"

    What is not expected is that someone who owns a truck regularly gets into the ABS on off-ramps... ;)
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    some comments from someone mentally simulating the situation you're in...

    tough one. i would think you can't compell anyone to take a vehicle into traffic which you know has a high probability of locking up a wheel and placing the driver in a loss of control situation. not only is the driver at risk, so is any other traffic (specially on-comming).

    if you are hesitant about the prospects of being a "test pilot", you could understand a service manager being hesitant to send one of his techs on a potential crash and burn mission...

    there's also the possibility of subsequent damage to the vehicle if the wheel locks up and the vehicle strikes something...

    this seems like a situation to perhaps consult with another dealership and/or independant specializing in toyota vehicles to mitigate risk and maximize the benefits of time in the vehicle / parts replacement.

    i imagine there is probably a way someone really knowlegeable about the braking system (assuming that's how the wheel is locking up) can selectively disable traction control or stability control, or what might be the cause of wheel lockup (due to a speed sensor problem?)...and see if the wheel locks up or not. this would help in winnowing the problem / solution space.

    there may be a way to mitigate the risk to a driver and the public using some kind of dynamo test stand, perhaps disabling / decoupling the drive to rear wheels...

    i suppose you may also have mechanical problems which are unseen (differential?).
  • I expected this response from someone. Regarding regularly feeling the ABS kicking in, I meant that momentary jumping underfoot when you cross a loose surface like scattered gravel, or a sharp bump while braking and turning into a tight offramp, normally the 270 degree roundabouts. You have to climb on the brakes in these cases, specially when there isnt a dedicated offramp lane. The other wheels have perfect traction and as a result of the issues I mentioned before, I get less breaking performance once the gizmo's start playing.
    On another point regarding handling. Has anyone actually fealt the difference in an XReas vs std suspension?. I had an SR5 loaner and fealt no difference in comfort or handling to my Sport.
  • 777,
    I have looked under it after I have had the a/c on and there is water draining but I can't really tell if it is the amount of water draining it should be. It isnt completely clogged though because there is some drainage. I havent heard any kind of water sloshing or the sizzle of it hitting the exhaust in hard turns either. I havent really got up under it and investigated it too well, but where can I find that drain line that might be crimped and the pan you are talking about? Can I see it from under the hood or do I need to get up underneath the vehicle to locate it? Thanks for your suggestions so far
  • chuck1chuck1 Posts: 1,405
    I have a 2004 Toyota 4 Runner Sport. I purchased the truck wrecked (With a good title), and had it fixed. The job done was strictly body shop work (Left front door and fender were replaced). No mechanical parts were damaged.

    It would appear that "parts were damaged". You need to remember that when a vehicle is in a serious wreck, IT IS NOT THE SAME VEHICLE AFTER. You need to ask your self the question- Why did the previous owner get rid of the vehicle after the accident? You said it wasn't totaled by the insurance company? You know, I am not a fan of New Car Dealers and their service departments. However, I must say I side with the dealer with this one. This car has been in an accident and they don't wish to "get involved" with the vehicle. I can't blame them. You know there are inherent risks involved in buying a vehicle involved in an accident and you found this out!
    Good luck with this!
  • nedzelnedzel Posts: 787
    Sorry, but having had my 4Runner for 2 years, the only times I've felt the ABS come on have been in snow. And your post was far too tempting a target to not respond ;)

    I haven't tried a std 4Runner (my limited has XREAS), so I can't help you there.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    well, if you see water draining to the road surface... you know where the drain is. ;)

    on cars I've owned the drain tube is visible under the vehicle, up front, ahead of the firewall but in an area behind the front passenger tire.

    just to clarify a point - if your problem is bad (and the pan isn't draining at all), many people experience the sound of water hitting a hot frying pan. i believe it is water sloshing up against the evaporator coils and being changed from a liquid into a solid almost instantly, but that's just my theory. it is not water hitting exhaust system components.

    cars are different of course. in mine (Honda), the cabin/pollen filter is behind the glove box and in the passenger compartment. to be honest, i don't know where the actual evaporator and pan with drain is located - but in my car, i think its big assembly. last time i changed a cabin filter, there was some nasty stuff that collected there. on some cars, the cabin/pollen filter is located in a different place, but the pan and drain has to be at a low-point in the system, and if the evaporator is behind the dash somewhere, it will certainly not be outside the vehicle, or under the vehicle...but behind the dash and above driver or passenger feet most likely.

    a toyota parts web-site (google it) might show for you vehicle and model year, where the AC evaporator or cabin filter is located on an exploded parts list. a call to a dealer parts department will probably also provide you with the information.

    generally, during an oil change, most shops will gladly shoot a blast of compressed air up the drain line. if a boat-load of water pours back out, you know what your problem is. if someone charges you to do this when they already are under the car (either car is on a lift or they are in a pit), that would *REALLY* surprise me. just ask them.

    you can try running your car without the ac. if you don't have any further mosture in the footwell, maybe your drain is partially clogged...just to let you know, debris in the pan can move and a completely clogged drain can become a partially clogged one. this has happened to me.

    if you don't use your ac and you get water in the floorboard, i guess i would suspect a problem with a passenger door seal or windshield seal. you might be able to diagnose those possibilities using a garden hose.
  • dlrjazdlrjaz Posts: 1
    Hi could you tell me how or where the egr gas temperature sensor plug is? I am having the same problem you have I have code 71. Thanks for any help. Jaz
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