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Toyota 4Runner Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,669
    Well, I live in California, and California is expensive, but about two years ago I had a friend with a 1990 4Runner (same V-6 as your friend's) and he spent about $2000 on a rebuild, which included removal and installation. He also spent a few hundred more for a complete tune-up and timing belt and all the rest, but the actual rebuild part including the labor was about $2000 of it. He is like your friend, will never give up his Runner for a newer one. :-)

    At 250K, your friend is well into the territory where the engine could be having ring trouble. That's a fair pile of miles. Using a heavy heavy oil will stave off the inevitable, but creates other problems. If she likes it and it is in very good shape apart from this problem, she should check around and find a reputable place for the rebuild, and price it. Good places will warrant their work for 12 months/12K miles.

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • My 2003 4-runner driver side window goes back down about 2-3 inches after closing with the auto-up feature. You can make it go ahead and close all the way- by lightly lifting the button- but it is really annoying.
  • mike805mike805 Posts: 33
    Does anyone know of a door rub bar (black unpainted) that can be added to a new 4Runner with double sided tape to prevent door paint dings? Something like that on the Tundra would do if it doesn't require holes to be drilled.
  • This job has to be done carefully on the V6,both head gaskets have to be replaced not just the blown side because of faulty head design,both mating surfaces the engine block and the aluminum head have to be completely cleaned of old gasket material,sanded and degreased,next use a metal ruler and make sure heads are not warped if head is warped it must be replaced.Also Ishino head gaskets designed for this problem must be used along with new Corteco head bolts and washers,this job is labor intense and most shops dont have the time to do it correctly.
  • I recently bought a 2006 v6 sport edition and have experienced the same exhaust backlash noise. I took it to the dealership and they said...."it's just exhaust backlash"...and I could get a borla dual exhaust system and the noise would go away....I just spent $32k for a car and i need to buy an upgraded exhaust system? Right?!....I'm going to test drive a new 4runner to see if all of the vehicles have that problem....it is very annoying and makes the car sound cheap
  • 19841984 Posts: 16
    the exhaust noise i get sounds like a very noisy valve - they also told me that normal for a 4runner.
  • 19841984 Posts: 16
    seems i have very sensitive sensor - the amber warning light came on on a trip to philadelphia a few weeks ago (it was much colder there than DC). It finally reset itself once i got back to warmer climes (all 5 tires pessure were correct). i will be back to the dealer tomorrow for a second visit on this. :(
  • yaroshyarosh Posts: 14
    i have a 2005 4-runner that never vibrates up to 85 mph. is there a lemon law in your state? did you buy it with american express? in either case you can turn it back to them as defective. you absolutely shouldn't put up with anyting that isn't wonderful. regards, yrosh
  • guestguest Posts: 774
    I might try an exhaust upgrade with new headers but i would rather not make the modification
  • NEED ADVICE... Got a '96 Toyota 4 Runner. After starting engine, engine runs for 1 to 5 minutes and then just cuts out. It just cranks with fuel pressure, but NO SPARK!!!. I have replaced the following: Cam Shaft Sensor; Air Mass Meter; Crank Shaft Sensor

    After it stalls, it will only start again if I let it sit for a couple hours. When it does start again, it cuts out after 1 to 5 minutes and the problem is the same as above.

    Anyone have advice??

    Many Thanks.
  • Does anyone out there experience a knocking/tapping noise when starting the engine in the morning or when engine is cold? The noise disappears as the engine warms up. Somebody told me it is the engine valve lifters. I put an additives but still didn't help.

    Any comments is appreciated.

    Manny
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,669
    I think they're right, it's the valve lifters. It's not a huge worry, but maybe you could switch to a lighter oil so it will pump up quicker when it's cold?

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,669
    Have you tried to pull codes off it? Sure sounds like a bad sensor somewhere.

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • I have a 96 recently working on the engine accidently broke an aluminum liquid line that run throught the drier and condensor something like that, anyway freon empty, i have a home mechanic purchase one and installed it for 100 usd plus 30 for recharging freon to it, but he didn't know how much freon should he charge, anyone know please post. he said look under hood it should tell the maximun of lbs and the mininum. since mine lable not there anymore....
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,669
    a '96 would use R134a, not freon. :confuse:

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • yeah you rite not freon i mean R134a. i would like to know how much should it be recharge in it could you look your lable underhood see how much the maxium and the mininum of pounds.. Thanks...
  • 19841984 Posts: 16
    :lemon: The Dealer ( has now offered to order a new tire pressure sensor (this after my 2nd visit).
  • dadof6dadof6 Posts: 61
    Is it a 4 or 6 cyl ?
  • rychrrychr Posts: 2
    Got a weird intermittent problem with my 2005 4runner Limited. On occasion when I go offroading in 4H the 4wd lights keep flashing when I shift from 4H to 2H. This is not the normal 4wd drive engaged lights that flash when u go from 2H to 4H and vice versa but all of them including the 4lo, diff lock, VSC lights etc. Tried stopping the vehicle, accelerating and braking, backing up, shifting from 2H to 4H and back again but nothing stops the blinking lights. When I turn the truck off and on again there are no more blinking lights. The dealer has looked at my truck twice now and can't find any problems or re-create the problem because it only happens sometimes

    Has anyone heard of this problem? Is this a mechanical or a sensor problem? Is there a technical bulletin on this? Any help would be appreciated.

    Thanks
  • cbhoocbhoo Posts: 4
    I have a 2000 4Runner with a 3.4L 6-cyl engine that has been regularly serviced by my Toyota dealer (Kings Toyota in Cincinnati) since I bought it new in 1/00. I have 78,000 miles, and it was just serviced (oil change) at the dealer 1 month before my engine failure.

    Three weeks ago I was driving on the expressway, when I accelerated to change lanes, the car began to shake and the engine lost power. The engine light came on. When I pulled off the road, the oil light came on too. The engine quickly seized up and stopped. There was oil and radiator fluid mixed together on the road under the car.

    I had it towed to the Toyota dealer (Kings Toyota in Cincinnati) where I bought it new and which did my service. I suspected a blown connecting rod. The dealer confirmed that the engine must be replaced. Incredible!! I bought this 4Runner for its advertised quality and reliability. I had a Jeep for 140k miles before this. Also had Honda, Nissan, Toyota and Chevy for 100k+ miles.

    When the problem first surfaced (which initially I thought was only a blown engine), I called the Toyota Customer Care toll free number in CA. This (or any) engine does not fail after only 78,000 miles unless it is defective or not cared for. I had all service according to the manual at the dealer. I am the original owner. Toyota Customer Care told me I must work through the dealer Customer Service Rep. So, I immediately contacted the dealer Cust. Service Rep, who then had the Toyota District Sales and Parts Manager (DSPM) (Ron) for my area look at the car. Two weeks ago the Toyota DSPM apparently inspected the car and told the dealer he would give $1000 toward a new engine -- net $8000 installed per my dealer. A used engine is only $4500 so I chose to go with the used engine and continue to try to work out with Toyota.

    This week they started to remove the old engine and I learn that I need a transmission too -- another $3200! The dealer is telling me that the connecting rod broke, was thrown through the block and into the transmission -- needs both an engine and transmission (~ $8k). I went to see it 2 days ago and met with the mechanic and service manager. When I asked what would cause this premature failure (I already knew) the mechanic said that he did not want to accuse me of anything but did I ever change the oil. It was easy for me to say yes -- the dealer (you) changed it over the years including 3 times this year in Jan, May and 30 days before the failure! He said that's about the only way he knew it could fail.

    I immediately spoke to the Customer Care rep at the dealer (Kings Toyota in Cincinnati) who told me to call the Toyota Customer Care person in CA again because the dealer could not do anything more. The Toyota Customer Care person told me that I must resolve this with the dealer or the Toyota DSPM for this area. Toyota also told me no one, not even the CEO of Toyota could overrule the decision of the DSPM -- ridiculous. The dealer told me to work through Toyota so I am getting jerked around. My neighbors and friends -- some who bought Toyotas from my dealer at my recommendation -- are shocked that Toyota will not take care of this problem.

    I need to contact the Toyota DSPM; I know his first name is Ron, but nothing else. Toyota Customer Care said they did not know who the DSPM was for my area but to contact the dealer and it could tell me. I have left messages at the dealer for this contact info but now radio silence. Anybody have any names/address/phone of a person at Toyota where they had success resolving a problem?? Any other suggestions for getting help from Toyota?
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