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Nissan Pickup Owners Hangout

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  • asaasa Posts: 359
    The manual suggests use of 91 Octane "for improved vehicle performance" only, but it is definitely not necessary. I've burned only 87 Octane in my '06 4.0L V-6 and aside from one occasion when I bought some crummy gas, my Frontier SE Crew runs fine with gobs of power, even with heavy loads in back. I do no towing. You'll be fine with 87 I suspect. Good luck with your purchase.
  • ryanceyryancey Posts: 42
    bad fuel injector?
  • hoss51hoss51 Posts: 2
    i answered my own question. turns out it was the crank angle sensor in the distributor had dust in the slits on the rotor plate. all i had to do was blow air through the rotor plate and it was good as new. glad i tried this before buying a new distributor for $400.
  • I have a 97 Nissan SE pickup 4 cyl., V-6, 5 speed 4wd. I need to replace the sending unit on my pickup. It is the one that is located on top of the gas tank. Can anyone tell me where I can locate one? Nissan wants 340.00. I have already put alot of money into this truck in the past 8 months and have had it only running 2 weeks in 8 months.
    I have replace the oxygen sensor, mass air flow sensor, had a major problem with my spark plugs. Now I have this problem. When I try and drive it I have gas spewing out all over underneath so had to park it. (again) this truck only has about 62,000 miles on it and the body is in excellent shape. Need to get this thing back on the raod. So if anyone can tell me where to find the sending unit located ontop of the gas tank for less than 340.00 I would greatly appreciate it.
  • 8ball28ball2 Posts: 9
    Try this site. They saved me money on a pump.

    http://www.autopartsfair.com/
  • 8ball28ball2 Posts: 9
    It's been a few months since this was posted, but it might still be useful. My speedometer did the same thing off and on for about a year, then it stopped working completely. I took out the panel and hooked up a drill where the cable inserts in the back of the meter, the meter seemed to be working, so I checked the cable. The cable seemed to recess easily when I pressed on it. This lead my to believe it wasn't making a good connection into the slot on the back of the meter. I removed the cable from the truck and hooked that up to a drill. I held it so it would produce a little resistants, like it might have snaking around the body to hook into the transmission, sure enough the cable separated. I suspect it was unraveling and was only working with a few wires and that's why it was gradual. Hope this works for you.
  • ryanceyryancey Posts: 42
    What year was your truck, I have a 94 and i belive it is all elctronic, not mechanical
  • 8ball28ball2 Posts: 9
    I have a 1993 SE 4x4. The repair manual I have is for 1980-1996, so I would think it would be the same for a 94. You'll know right away if you see the square end of the cable behind the instrument panel where it plugs into the speedometer.
  • Bought an 88 nissan d21 truck 2x4 with a z24i engine 140k, soley for work purpouses. It's been sitting in some guy's yard for years which has been trouble enough. Already replaced the clutch master cylinder, oil pan gasket and a slew of other things. The front crank oil seal is shot so I decided to try and find the part. Came in from nissan, and I waited for the weekend to do this. The first thing I did was loosen the adjustment bolt on the alternator to loosen the belts on the pulleys. Realized I didn't have a big enough socket for the crank pulley, I snapped everything back together. Now my engine will turn but not start.(sounds like it's out of gas) Is this coincidental? Surely nothing I did caused this. It's been suggested that maybe I somehow turned a pulley and got something out of time. At this point, I am tearing out my hair for not knowing. All spark plug wires are in working order. Was there some sort of short because I didn't disconnect the negative battery cable before I lossened a nut on the alternator? Haven't got a clue. Please help.
  • i don't suppose by some chance there Silver-Bullet, you still have that stock am/fm cassette that came in your 97 nissan truck do you? and does it work?
  • ggannggann Posts: 8
    My truck starts and runs fine up to about 2700 rpm. It then falters back to 2000 and after releasing the gas pedal and reappling it will go back to 2700. I have changed fuel filter, check fuel pump pressure, tested with an ohm meter the throttle position and mass air flow. I have installed new complete distributor and coil assemblies. I have added gas through the air intake and checked exhaust flow. Nothing has changed the rpm problem. I live 70 miles from the nearest Nissan dealer. My local mechanic shop is stumped also.
  • ggannggann Posts: 8
    Update on 93 4x4: I got my truck back and tried to drive it home. 2 miles or so.Under load the rpm will only get up to 1300 rpm. It does not backfire yet does make a popping noise as if the fuel is not adequate. While checking the fuel pressure I noticed the fuel pressure went up slightly when I got to 2700 rpm just as it would falter. It will still get to 2700 rpm in the driveway. My mechanic thinks the fuel one of the injector drivers in the computer may be bad. But will any replacement Nissan computer work and does it have to be programmed for my truck and engine? The mechanic said the lights (one red and one green) on the computer did seem to work properly and give the correct error codes. Where can I find out how to get and read these codes? I haven't found a source for a good Nissan truck repair manual. Any help is appreciated. GGann :confuse:
  • please help i think these questions have been answered but i don't understand how to read them and i would like to make sure i am trackin properly. i am an avid mini trucker, and mechanic(backyard kind, with schooling, lack money and computer help).
    my truck runs like a top till about 2600 r.p.m.s, then bogs and hesitates there, replaced, fuel filter, t.p. sensor, and fuel pressure regulator. still haven't replaced the fuel pump, nor the injectors. and while i was at it, any info for cheap fun upgrades would be appreciated......danny
  • i own a 96 Nissan pick up, 2.4 single o.h.c.
    i would like to know if a d.o.h.c. head is a direct bolt on to the s.o.h.c bottom end.
    and anyone with turbo knowledge on how to install, a Frankenstein turbo on my truck, and hoping to find out how and what upgrades will be necessary for this to be an equivalent to a turbo 240sx drift motor. any and all help will be much appreciated..... Danny
  • I have a 2006 Nissan Frontier with 30K miles. The dealer recommended the scheduled maintenance of not only replacement of the engine oil but also replacing the automatic transmission fluid, deferential oil, coolant, drive belts and transfer case oil. Other than the engine oil, is it really necessary to change the rest of the items mentioned every 30K? In my opinion the dealer is really into the preventative maintenance. If I would go with replacing everything above, which items should I address?
  • I have a 2006 Nissan Frontier with 30K miles. The dealer recommended the scheduled maintenance of not only replacement of the engine oil but also replacing the automatic transmission fluid, deferential oil, coolant, drive belts and transfer case oil. Other than the engine oil, is it really necessary to change the rest of the items mentioned every 30K? In my opinion the dealer is really into the preventative maintenance. Of the service items mentioned above, if I would choose have something serviced, what items should be addressed?
  • jw13jw13 Posts: 1
    COULD ANYONE TELL ME WHERE TO GET A DIAGRAM OF HOW TO CHANGE THE FUEL PUMP ON A 93 NISSAN ALSO WHERE IS THE BEST PLACE TO GET USED PARTS FOR IT.
  • wgorewgore Posts: 2
    Have a 1993 King cab that gets bad gas mileage. Does anyone know a fix.
  • merviemervie Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 Nissan Pickup. 4 cyl. 2 wh. dr. auto. It has a bad air flow meter. Once the car starts to warm up it starts to dump major fuel into the engine. Keeps throwing a MAF code. Heres the problem. The only place I can find a new one is the dealer and they want a lot of money for it. None of the parts stores even list it for this year and I have been unable to find one on line. I have yet to find one in a junk yard. Anyone know why this is unavailable except for $470 from the dealer? Is this and odd year. I dont need the entire throttle body. Just the inch by inch and a half meter with hot wires. Anyone know wher e I can find one used or new? I'm desperate and dissapointed.
  • cobra77cobra77 Posts: 3
    I have a '97 standard pickup 5sp man with 2.4L.(Is that engine something else or what!) I bought it new and it has 197k. It's been a dream. From day one it has gotten 26-27mpg. The last 2 months it has tanked to 22-23mpg. I do my own oil changes but am not a mechanic. I have a very good one and keep it maintained. The O2 sensor was replaced 15k ago and everything was fine. Recently did a fuel injector power flush, fuel filter, air filter, the usual suspects, still no change. The valve cover gasket has now been seeping for quite sometime. Could this be it? The catalytic converter? It's driving me nuts! Also, it runs and idles like it is new. Any help or suggestions? Thank you very much.
  • ggannggann Posts: 8
    I can't help but My 93 2.4L also did run and idle great but would not get past 2700 rpm. Now the fuel injectors are not working although I have 12 volts on one side of the injector connectors. This problem came up last week when I was toubleshooting using my new Haynes book. My mechanic who finally gave up on the rpm problem thought it might be the computor since the injector drivers are in the computor. My previous posts are #482 & 483. I haven't gotten any help. Good Luck
  • nassin1nassin1 Posts: 1
    Hi there, yesterday i was driving my truck nuthing rong doing fine stoped to get some food goot back in and started it up all is good..... then driving down the road it has compleat power failer wont go past 2500rpm and the engin light is on make it home and the code reads MAF and MAF pending... so today cleanded the MAF did full tune up reset the ecu and drive to work every thing fine untill she warms up then it did the whole fall on its face again iv pulled the maf and started the truck and the same thing happens wont go past 2500rpm, cant figur out what to do can some one help
  • ggannggann Posts: 8
    NOTE, SEE MY POSTS #482,483,493. I still have :mad: a problem with my 2.4L but it is now worse. I coudn't get an error diagnostic code but it would start and get to 2700 rpm then fall back to 2000 and try to rev up again. I disconnected the 0-2 sensor to see if that code would show up. Now the thing tries but won't start and run. I added gas down the intake and still it tries but wouldn't keep running. Now this is scary, I pulled all of the injector connectors and tried it. I ran for almost a minute. This tells me the injectors are suppling too much gas and the engine RPM falls down. There must be sensor that tells the ECU that the mixture is too lean and to increase the gas supply. I haven't found out which sensor that is but this could be the original RPM problem. Too much gas will cause the engine RPM to decrease. If I find out I will let you know.
  • my 96 2.4 does the same thing and the only thing i havent replaced is the crank angle sensor, but it is one piece distributer and all. dont have 250 dollars to buy new one and try it, they cant just test the distributer, need the whole truck running. mine runs great to 25-2600 rpms, acts like it hits a rev limiter....any luck please let me know as well. much appreciated.....danny
  • ggannggann Posts: 8
    My 2.4L has the same problem but my mechanic did replace the dist with a brand new one and the problem did not change. I have since determined the problem is with the fuel injector pulses. They are allowing TOO much gas to be injected and the engine won't rev past 2700. I did find a broken wire going to the air temp sensor. Repaired that problem but now it won't start and continue running. The air flow meter(MAF) as it is called on my 93 may be the problem but haven't got back to trying to troublesoot that component. At one point after many starting tries I disconnected all four injector connectors. It started and ran for 30-45 secounds. I had put gas down the intake. When I tried adding just one injector it died. Still fishing for answers. No computor codes have ever shown up. Good Luck
  • wern10wern10 Posts: 14
    thats an easy one,mine did the same thing,it was a bad sensor on the transfer case, its an easy fix...ive been a professional mechanic for 16 yrs. now and that seems to be the norm w/ nissans
  • wern10wern10 Posts: 14
    im a mechanic in a reputable garge and ill give u an idea if u need one...usually when u can unplg the injector harness and the vehicle then starts and runs,until the available runs fuel out, that is a sure sign that either the comp. has your injectors wide open, in which case youll need to replace the comp., or you got a short in the injector harness, and thats alittle more time consuming,but thats where id start my search..most dealerships can test your comp., forlittle to no charge if u take it out, but call the dealer first cause some cant test them unless they are in the vehicle.and usually you can pick up a cheap harness at a salvage yars at a reasonable price
  • wern10wern10 Posts: 14
    i see this all the time,ive been doing auto repair professionally for 16 yrs.the only you need to worry about your timing belt is during the reg. scheduled intervals. the manufacturer gives maint. times and specs because they really do work..if your truck doesnt have an oil leak up frt. around the belt housing then chances are youre still good till your scheduled time,but if you are a worry wart,than changing your belt early wont hurt a thing,just to inform you,not scare you, if you have an interference engine than its a good chance that IF the timing belt broke,for whatever remote twist of bad luck, then its almost guaranteed that catastrophic engine failure WILL result,ie,the valves will make contact with the pistons and usually the cylinder head cracks, the pistons are destroyed from grooves, nicks,and shavings, and the cylinder walls themselves depending on engine speed or RPMs,will scar to the point theyll need bored,or the engine block replaced,ie a whole engine replacement...this is a worst case scenario.let me know if i helped.
  • wern10wern10 Posts: 14
    my 95 d21 just did the same thing,it was actually the little condenser on the back of the alt. by the way,if you takr the alt. out from the bottom it is so much easier.if you dont know what a condenser looks lie,its 2 inch long, about the diameter of a nickle and has 1 wire coming out of it.after that i havent had any trouble out of it.
  • wern10wern10 Posts: 14
    check the main fusable link.it comes off the alt/ starter circuit as a main power source to the cab its in between main hot batt. cable and chassis harness to the inside.
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