Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Nissan Pickup Owners Hangout

1151618202125

Comments

  • lava3lava3 Posts: 4
    An 86 nissan.. that brings back unpleasant memories. I purchased a brand new one in 1986. It ran great, very dependable..unless it RAINED!!! Took this truck back to dealer many, many, many times. Sometimes they would have it for over two weeks.I recall more than once after picking it up it would break down on the highway.Dealer never did find the problem and I sold it on a nice sunny day after about 4 years. good luck with yours
  • lava3lava3 Posts: 4
    95 4cyl 5spd. speed sensor.Speedometer quit a few days ago. Pulled speed sensor today and noticed plastic gear on end of speed sensor was damaged. Can this gear be replaced or do i need a new speed sensor? don't want to search salvage yards to find others with same problem. I believe 95-97 are the same.Help. Can't drive pickup now because fluid slings out the hole on side of trans.
  • lava3lava3 Posts: 4
    1995 Nissan pickup 4cyl. 5 spd. 2 wheel drive. Where to get part? No local salvage yards have this item . It operates speedometer & connects to transmission. Dealer wants over$160. just for part.
  • I ordered it from the Parts bin. It was a Hitachi. After driving it for about two months, it has begun to work perfectly...grimlins I guess!!

    When you start up in the mornings, do you get a rattling noise from the engine? It reminds me of a timing chain tensioning issue. Once oil is up and circulating it quiets down...takes about 5-7 seconds. I am getting a little concerned about it now. The truck has about 150K miles on it.

    Thx
  • Is anyone hearing a rattling noise at engine startup after being off for about 4 or 5 hours or overnite. Sounds like valves rattling or a timing chain...getting a little concerned...truck has about 150K miles on it. I rather not loose a timing chain in travel. Any suggestions or ideas?

    Thx
  • wgorewgore Posts: 2
    Yes I have this problem. Changed timing chain, it help for a little while. Now I use thicker oil it helps. Dealer told me it could be the lifters, but there are none in a four cylinders. Will try and adjust vavles next. by the way I have 234,000 miles.
  • The rattle you hear is lack of oil pressure at the initial start of the engine. After pressure comes up on the timing chain tensioner it clears up. This is also very common in other engines, the KIA has the same problem.
    It does not seem to be damaging anything but it is anoying. I changed the timing chain on my engine at about 100k miles and it still does it, no change. I guess we just live with it.
  • asaasa Posts: 359
    Some lower quality oil filters lack an anti-drainback valve, thus when the engine is shut off, all of the oil drains back into the crankcase increasing the time it takes the oil system to pressurize upon starting. Not sure if this is your case, but you might try a factory filter at your next oil change and see if it improves things.
  • Has anyone had any luck with cup holders in a 1986.5-1995 Nissan hardbody?

    Thanks,
    Austin
  • Hello,

    I am very new to car ownership. I bought this truck 3 weeks ago. The mileage on this truck is 92,000 miles. Since I am new at owning a car, what steps should I take to insure the this truck is well maintained? So far the motor of the washer fluid is burnt out since it does not operate. This makes me think I should go to an auto repair shop to ask for a full inspection. However, since I haev never done this before, what should I ask the mechanic? I want a full inspection/diagnostic to identify key problems and potential problems in the future. How do I go about this and what price should I expect? I live in the monterey, Ca area so the truck is at high risk of rust with the salt water from the ocean. Your assistance is greatly appreciated.
  • asaasa Posts: 359
    Does this truck have a timing belt or timing chain? I think this model had the KA24E engine with a timing chain, which is a good thing. (If it has a timing belt, you'll need to determine if it was ever replaced and do so if not.)

    And you'll want to check to see when the engine oil was last changed, as well as the transmission oil and the transfer case oil too if it's a 4x4.

    Check the coolant and brakes too. You might check the spark plugs if they're easy to get at and look at the spark plug and coil wire set too, but if she's running well I wouldn't be too concerned with the plugs and wires.

    Most any mechanic will know the basics of what needs to be checked. Have fun and good luck. :)
  • I just had a recent experience and found out that the dealer has already replaced 3 wiring harnesses that were caused from the EXACT same problem. It appears (also after reading these forums) that the tailpipe develops a leak or just falls off. This in turn melts the harness that is directly above the joint just before it goes over the axle. This will then put your vehicle in some kind of "fail safe " mode. Very dangerous if in traffic. After reading a majority of the posts I am wondering if a lot of the dash light problems are caused by this not to mention other quirky issues. Has anybody had the same problem???
  • I have a fuel problem i replaced pump 2 times, i ran 2 bypass wires to pump with toggle switch, truck runs fine with harness unhooked at tant conn, i replaced relays, checked all connections, any suggestions ? Could pressure regulator be defective ? Although when bypassed it starts right uo runs perfectly,THANKS
  • Hi im having the same problem aroun 2400 rpm. Did you ever get this problem tracked down. Plesae let me know i have taken it to 3 shops and spent hundreds. thanks Chris
  • Hi im having the same problem aroun 2400 rpm. Did you ever get this problem tracked down. Plesae let me know i have taken it to 3 shops and spent hundreds. thanks Chris
  • Hi im having the same problem aroun 2400 rpm. Did you ever get this problem tracked down. Plesae let me know i have taken it to 3 shops and spent hundreds. thanks Chris
  • Hi im having the same problem aroun 2400 rpm truck acts like its hitting a rev limiter and smokes black. Did you ever get this problem tracked down. Plesae let me know i have taken it to 3 shops and spent hundreds. thanks Chris
  • Hi im having the same problem aroun 2400 rpm truck surges and acts like its hitting the rev limiter.. Did you ever get this problem tracked down. Plesae let me know i have taken it to a shops and spent hundreds and still stuck. thanks Chris
  • I have a 1995 Nissan Kingcab XE V6. About a year ago I started it one morning to go to work and when I pulled out on road I had no power and engine was idling at about 400 rpms. I was told it could be all sorts of problems so I parked it. I recently pulled spark plugs and the ones in cylinders 1 & 2 looked well used and damaged the other 4 looked basically normal but well used. I replaced them and started engine and still it would barely run 400 rpms and cut off. I rechecked the spark plugs after this and they looked black as if they weren't firing properly, I only checked the plugs for 1,2 & 3 cylinders. I have 166,340 miles and I serviced it regularly. Except the spark plugs. I put a new set of Bosch Platinum plugs in 97,000 miles ago and forgot all about them truck ran fine until it did what I described at start of this post. I've been told burnt valves, timing belt(which has never been replaced either..my bad) and catalytic converter. Anyone have any ideas? I have very limited almost no finances so I'd like to see if it's something I might check and repair myself before taking it to a mechanic. Putting in new spark plugs didn't help.
    Any help would be appreciated...I love and miss my truck

    PS: I am NO mechanic, obviously but I can do some things mechanical.
  • Before going to garage you can do several checks yourself, one is to check compression on each cylinder. take out one plug at a time first pull out coil, wire so engine won't start. do not pull on wire but the end at plug connection,do you have compression guage? if not try to borrow one from pep boys, or other parts places, write down compression to each cyl. then squirt a couple squirts oil in each cyl. for squirt can use windex bottle ect, write each test down. remember to do one cyl at a time. replace plug then next one ,an so on. you should have reading of 100lbs or a little above. please be careful to note any differences of each cyl, also note the dry test is before you,, squirt oil in each cyl thats a wet test if the wet shows a lot if usually 5 to 8 lbs difference you have a valve problem but do this test yourself, good luck
  • That sounds alot like the throwout bearing
  • jmj57jmj57 Posts: 3
    Last week a rim on my 2006 Titan broke. The lug nuts and studs stayed in place, but the rim broke. Because the truck was out of warranty (mine had 46K instead of the 36K warranty number), Nissan said I had to pay. They said that rims break. "Sometimes it happens" said the dealer. The regional rep agreed. Any other Nisaan owners have the same issue? Or others have bad customer service issues with Nissan? We currently own 2 Nissans which we bought new that have the same rims..."That sometimes it happens" that the rims break... Good thing mine broke at 10-15 mph and not 60...otherwise I wouldn't be telling you this today.

    I'd never buy another Nissan again...

    Comments anyone?
  • I have a 1997 Nissan PU with 105,000 miles on it. It has been a good truck, I have had problems lately in getting any power when I have to downshift to go up a hill. It seems that I am constantly in fourth gear even when I down shift say to second. No power to go up the hill. It seems that it will not engage first or second grear.
  • byrd2byrd2 Posts: 9
    Hi,

    My sister has a '95 Nissan, as I recall, small pick-up with the 4 cylinder engine in it. It would only start and barely run with no power after I replaced the plugs, wires, distribuitor cap, and rotor. Cylinder compression is good, adn fuel pressure is also good. After replacing those tune up components, I hgot it started only after setting turning the distributor up against on of the stops, counterclockwise. But as soon as you put it in gear, the engine would die. Hence no power. It has a timing chain, and has 160,000 miles on it. Could it be any f the camshaft/crankshaft position sensors have failed? Or the ignition module, as no check engine light comes on? Or a stretched timing chain, or bad tensioner. It sort of did make a racket from the fron of the engine. A broken timing chain would not allow the engine to start at all, but a loose one would sure throw everything off. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
  • It sounds like your timing chain has jumped a few teeth. This usually happens on the Nissan Pickup during the startup of the engine. You will hear a loud rattle as the chain tensioner inflates with oil pressure. During this time of low oil pressure, the chain is somewhat loose. If your guides are worn or broken, it will allow the chain to jump the sprocket and knock the cam out of time with the crankshaft. If you check your timing it will indicate good but actually the valves are out of sync with the firing of the pistons.
    The only fix is to replace the timing chain and guides with a good QUALITY replacement kit. Don't do as I did and buy a cheap kit, you will just end up doing it all over again in a very few miles......

    Good Luck!
    Gary
  • My truck is a 1989. It runs fine. I work on it some here and there. The shop has done bigger repairs. I have replaced some parts on it. What kind of track history do these vehicles have? It was tuned up in the shop and the compression was acceptable. Mine has the Z24 Engine with the 5 speed.. The engine, clutch, and transmisson are original. It has been a very dependable vehicle, but I am thinking and wondering should this vehicle be replaced?
  • byrd2byrd2 Posts: 9
    I'd say they have a fairly good track record. My cousin had one and he had it 'till the body just wasn't any good anymore. I would seriously condsider checking the clutch for wear to see if it needs to replaced, and if so, replace it. And if the body is still decent, and with today's economy, you should probably keep it. 'Cause gas will only go back up, etc. I had a 1992 Ford F-150 I would have kept if the body was in very good shape. It had 260,000 miles on the engine and it showed it. It only ran on 7 cylinders, and the manual tranny had some flukes, but it started every time. I just didn't want to put the money in it, 'cause the body was so bad, and you'd never get your money back out of it. But it was paid for, and everything worked on it.
  • Total newb here. I replaced the distributor cap on my 4 cylinder 1991 nissan pickup. Wasn't paying attention when I took it off and I'm not sure which way to put it BACK. There's a total of five ports for the spark plug wires. Four make a box and then the fifth in the middle. Theres also a little 'nub' that I'm not sure goes on the top or bottom. The manual I have doesn't show how the cap goes on for my model. So I'm not sure which way to put it on, not to mention I now have to get the firing order right and I have NO IDEA how to do that. Theres a number '1' on the cap itself, but I'm not sure where the one starts. If anyone has any info or photos of what it's supposed to look like, I'd greatly appreciate some advice!
  • It runs and suits my purposes. It is beat up pretty bad. It totaled in 2000. The bed box is pretty ugly. The speedometer does not work very well; it is sticky. I have spent some money on it but for normal stuff and minor stuff to keep it running. It still gets 25 mpg on the freeway, even 30 at 55mph. The beautiful thing about this truck is that cant hurt anymore. I have thought about taking the bed off and placing a flatbed on it, that would remove 95% of the body damage. Do you think I could find a flatbed used from a junkyard with some sort of nationwide parts search to fit this truck?
  • I have an 86.5 2 x 4 with 187,000. Also with Z24 and 5 speed and original engine, transmission and clutch. Like you have done most of the minor maintenance myself. Has a starting issue on warm rainy mornings when parked outside, but otherwise still running fine every day. Paid for and still averaging 23-25 mpg. I plan to keep it running. Have known two individuals with 300,000 on the original engine that 'outlived' the body. My daughter in college is driving a 94 Altima with 150,000. My experience with Nissan vehicles has been very positive.
Sign In or Register to comment.