Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





2005-2007 Toyota Avalon

1318319321323324478

Comments

  • riley3riley3 Twin Cities MNPosts: 27
    If your nickel sized chip is in your line of sight I doubt they will try to repair. I got a rock chip on my '05 LTD in June, just below line of sight. It has been barely noticeable but lately I see a couple small crack lines around the repair area. Glass company said I can have windshield replaced with cost of repair credited toward new windshield. My call. No time deadline for doing so. Let us know what you do to fix yours.
    I ordered Cassis Pearl mud guards from anythingtoyota and they came from Texas dealer. Perfect color match and easy to install.
  • joe369joe369 Posts: 61
    What tools do you need to install them?
  • I'm not so worried about cold engine start noise as I am about the initial RPM. If the car hasn't been run for a day, it revs to 2,000 rpm immediately on start. I'm concerned about spinning the engine so fast before oil is circulating at full pressure.

    Any thought about that?
  • retired7retired7 Posts: 133
    See posting #8280 for protective lens.
  • retired7retired7 Posts: 133
    See posting #8290 (last paragraph) for protective lens installation.
  • nimiminimimi Posts: 249
    Phillips screwdriver and drill with 1/4" bit.
  • joe369joe369 Posts: 61
    Oh no! I don't want to drill the car....would a dealor install them? Also, do body shops do undercoating? I think it will be beneficial during the winter with all the salt and such
  • dajabdajab Posts: 35
    Same thing happened in our Cassis Pearl '05 about 6 weeks ago on the I-5 --- a small rock, probably from an empty dump truck ahead on the highway. Our insurance company paid for the entire cost of repair by Safelite (under $100); deductible was waived. In addition, we retain the option of having the windshield replaced if the crack ever widens.

    Results: The chip was the size of a small pea, on the dirver's side and about 10 cm (4") up from the dash. It had 2 cracks radiating horizontally from it about 1 cm long each. After the Safelite fix, the cracks disappeared completely, and the chip became very difficult to see unless you know where it used to be. The repair is nearly as good as the original glass, and we get to keep our original windshield (a plus if you're worried about leaks after replacement).

    All-in-all, if you have to have a rock chip, this is the best way to go. But, the initial event was sickening, especially when we just had gotten the car roof repainted.

    But, that's another sad story...
  • tkaztkaz Posts: 69
    No idea how to tighten them. Loose fog lights seemed to be mentioned quite a few times on this reflector. So I just checked to make sure they weren't loose.
  • n0v8orn0v8or Posts: 169
    You will be drilling into plastic, not metal.
    In the rear, you will need to raise the body with a jack, or remove the wheel, for drill access. Being lazy, I elected to use a jack and leave the wheel in place.
  • alan_salan_s Posts: 357
    Yesterday I noticed as I was driving that there is some induction noise that I don't think existed before I had the transmission incident.
    Perhaps it was there before, and I never noticed it.
    Could someone help me out please. Could you place your Avalon in Neutral or Park with the radio off and with the engine running, blip the gas pedal. There seems to be a bit of a delay between the time the gas pedal is depressed and the engine responds. During this "lag time", please let me know if:
    1) your car has this lag time and
    2) whether your car makes a pronounced "CH" sound from under the hood immediately after blipping the gas pedal.
    I'd appreciate it.

    Maybe I don't have a problem except becoming hypersensitive, but it would be helpful for me to know whether my car is typical or not!
    Thanks, all.
  • n0v8orn0v8or Posts: 169
    See my post #8971 as to why adding one additional gear ratio can introduce undesirable self-destruct consequences, depending on the transmission design.
  • alan_salan_s Posts: 357
    Thanks, n0v8or. Your description sort of sounds like an explaination for the problem I had. I was at very light throttle and I think I accelerated just between downshifts when the transmission "totally lost it". Wanna check out my induction noise for me please? :D
  • n0v8orn0v8or Posts: 169
    Sure . . . I will try to duplicate your test tonight.
  • alan_s,

    When you had that surging incident, were you driving in "D" or in "S"?

    havalongavalon
  • check with Glen Burnie Toyota--i got my LTD for $600 (no prep or document fee) above invoice through United Buyers who in turn sends you to Glen Burnie. Great to deal with.
  • alan_salan_s Posts: 357
    havalongavalon: I was in D. I hadn't touched the selector lever, just driving as normal.
    There wasn't really a surge. As I stepped on the gas the tranny shifted into neutral instead of into a lower gear, so the engine rpms shot up to about 5,000rpm before I realized what had happened and pulled over to the side of the road. It was so sudden that I thought that something had broken in the transmission.
    I just hope this doesn't happen again - especially when pulling across or in front of traffic.
    Unfortunately my confidence in this vehicle is eroding.
    If you see my trusty old '02 Avalon anywhere, please tell her to come home, and tell her that this time I'll love her for ever... :cry:
  • jayvisjayvis Posts: 76
    There's no need to use a jack or remove the wheels to drill the holes for the rear flaps. Since you'll be drilling into plastic, it's ok to drill at an angle. Just use a smaller drill bit size than specified. The screws will find there way into the oblonged holes. I did it on mine and it worked fine.
  • Alan,

    I put my 06 through the procedure you just explained. I warmed my car up in the garage,
    placed it in neutral (parking brake on of course),
    opened the hood and stood outside my open drivers
    door. I blipped the gas pedal like you explained. The "CH" sound you described sounds like a rush of air going through a tube. Kinda sounded like the noise you'd hear if you were pushing alot of air through a large blow dart tube. The engine hesitated slightly then revved up. The noise happened each and every time along with the hesitation. Sounded pretty normal to me. I know the engine revs fast at start up to help obtain the ULEV rating. If what I heard was a rush of air, I'll bet it has something to do with ULEV also.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    "rather than a glitch in the electronic control syste..."

    Well, not exactly...

    There have been lots of reports of engine over-reving related to the engine/throttle hesitation symptom.

    Remember what often happens when you try to accelerate in a vehicle with a manual transmission that is in too high of a gear to produce enough torque (via gear reduction) on the output shaft to move the vehicle forward at the desired rate.

    The clutch slips.....

    So the transaxle in question did not necessarily have to be in neutral, only a high enough gear not to be able to produce enough torque to the drive wheels.

    And I think we already know, acknowledge, that part of the engine/throttle hesitation symptom is the result of the ECU upshifting the transaxle just prior to the driver "developing" a need to go quickly from a coastdown circumstance to one of acceleration.

    Before I obtained the 2001 and 2004 Lexus RX300/330 shop manuals and learned what is actually happening I also thought the transaxle was shifting into neutral, rather than simply upshifting, during coastdown situations.
  • tedescm1tedescm1 Posts: 309
    It’s interesting to note the Lexus, Toyota and Acura have been having tranny problems for the last 3 or 4 years.

    GM….Buick, and Cadillac have good transmissions and cost about 10k less…go figure.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Even more interesting is the fact that Cadillac started using an over-running clutch in their FWD transaxles quite some number of years ago to completely prevent engine compression braking of the (front) drive wheels.

    I suspect that other upscale GM products such as Buick followed suite.

    Maybe all GM products will now follow Cadillac's current practice of never again building FWD or front torque biased AWD vehicles.

    In advertising the AWD/4WD aspects of the GS300, IS300 and the 4runner, Toyota and Lexus seem to be implicitly acknowledging the circumstances wherein FWD and/or front biased AWD are potentially hazardous.

    All three of these models remove or reduce engine drive torque to the front wheels during stearing manuevers or if the yaw sensor signal indicates loss of directional control is threatened.

    Now if they would just realize that the VSC system could be used to prevent ABS activation unless loss of direction control is threatened I would be a happy man.
  • hi wwest,

    You were quick to read and respond to my suggestion of an alternative mechanical fault; but by then I had retracted my message #9957. Thanks for your clear explanation, I agree that this could have happened to alan_s.

    havalongavalon
  • joe369joe369 Posts: 61
    I didn't get it when I bought the car. Should I try to get them aftermarket somewhere? I do live in the NE with alot of snow/salt during the winter months.

    Where would I go to get them done?
  • n0v8orn0v8or Posts: 169
    I have a 1994 Maxima that has been through 11 New England winters. I do not see any rust in areas that would have been covered by undercoating. In my opinion, undercoating adds no significant rust protection to modern Japanese cars.
  • alan_salan_s Posts: 357
    Thanks norcalmike2, and to everyone else for their helpful comments.
  • zekeman1zekeman1 Posts: 422
    I agree...I had a Honda for 3 years while stationed on Guam - heavy salt spray all the time - no problems at all with rust. Think I read somewhere (Consumer Reports?) that undercoating & scotchguard on seats is a waste of money.
    zekeman1
  • n0v8orn0v8or Posts: 169
    Perhaps what you both are hearing is what Toyota calls the Acoustic Control Induction System ("ACIS"). The effective length of the air induction duct is changed as a function of throttle position and engine speed. This technique has been around a long time; I used to own a 96 Nissan with a vacuum actuated valve that did the same thing.

    The valve is open at idle, shortening the effective intake duct length. Supposedly, this dual-length system optimizes engine efficiency over a wider range of operating conditions. As the valve approaches the fully closed position, airflow velocity through it would increase ("whoosh"), then diminish once it has closed. Does that come close to describing the sound you hear?

    The Avalon uses a motor instead of a vacuum diaphram actuator, which might account for the delay. The motor is mounted at the end of the intake manifold that is opposite the intake duct.
  • On mine, no hesitation when I bip the throttle and no noise.
  • alan_salan_s Posts: 357
    Sounds feasable, thanks.
    I also had a 97 Maxima. As you know, there is no such thing as lag with those VQ engines. Hit the gas and the good old fashioned cable opens the throttle without delay. Even with the new 3.5 VQ with drive by wire, there is no discernable delay. I guess Toyota have some learning to do.
Sign In or Register to comment.