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Volvo XC90 Maintenance and Repair

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  • chellgrlchellgrl Posts: 2
    Has anybody had the problem or know why my rims are continually dirty with what looks like black soot? All 4. I just purchased the car in April, it's a 2008 with 13K miles.... Thanks in advance for your input.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,432
    Brake dust. Very common.
    When it is time to replace your pads, you can inquire about types that produce less dust.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • jondsjonds Posts: 6
    Just a warning - other brake pad types may not brake as well. I switched to ceramic pads which I was told would greatly reduce the dust/grime. It did, but the braking was TERRIBLE compared to the standard Volvo brake pads. I finally switched back.

    I'd love to hear how others handle this problem.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,432
    Sort of ... "may not" is really the key phrase. I put a set of Hawk HP+ pads on my G35. Not only do they produce less visible dust, but they feel better, too.

    Notice I said "feel." Because stopping power is not the issue. As long as you can invoke the ABS, the brake pads all stop just as effectively as one another.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • volvomaxvolvomax Posts: 5,274
    Notice I said "feel." Because stopping power is not the issue. As long as you can invoke the ABS, the brake pads all stop just as effectively as one another.

    Actually, the right pads CAN make a difference in stopping distance. ABS or no. ABS isn't meant to shorten stopping distance, it is meant to give you steering control in a panic stop.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,432
    ABS kicks in when wheel slip while braking is detected. Wheel slip is caused by a lack of traction by the tires. It has nothing to do with the pads. Different performance pads have been tested numerous times. On their own, they make no real difference in stopping distances.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • volvomaxvolvomax Posts: 5,274
    I know what ABS does. You mentioned ABS in this instance. However, different kinds of pads CAN make a difference in brake performance, especially when they get hot.
    Different pads handle heat differently. Hot pads don't function as well. This can lead to reduced brake performance and longer stopping distances.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,432
    Yes, you're right, brake fade can be an issue. But since we're talking about the XC90 and not a track car, its not something we need to worry about on these vehicles. UNLESS the person does alot of towing through mountains. I could see that being an issue.

    by the way, if anyone is interested in a pretty good article on this sort of thing:
    http://www.modified.com/roadtests/0710_sccp_project_acura_rsx_type_s_brake_test/- - - index.html

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • jondsjonds Posts: 6
    I'm not talking hypotheticals when I say that my braking performance was terrible with the ceramic pads (from Monroe). I had to press the brake pedal VERY hard to slow the car from highway speeds - to the point of it being dangerous. When I brought it to Volvo they said that the ceramic pads were glazed due to the heat produced in braking, so they didn't grab well. I don't know if this is typical of all ceramic pads, but do know that there was a VERY significant difference in braking with the standard Volvo pads and the ceramic ones I got from Monroe.

    As noted, ABS won't make a difference, since ABS doesn't kick in until you lock up the brakes, which was hard to do in my situation with the ceramic pads.

    But back to the original question - anyone have any other ideas for keeping wheels clean?? ;^)
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,432
    Glazed pads is a problem. But, no, it wasn't necessarily due to their composition. They weren't bedded properly. Could happen with any type of brakes.

    There really is no way to keep the wheels clean otherwise. I mean, you brake, it produces dust, it sticks to the wheels. Only solution is less dust. That means don't brake/brake less or less dusty pads. I suppose maybe you could get some sort of insert to install behind the wheel to seal it off from the dust.(??) Seems impractical and probably quite unattractive.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • Where to I get used 17" RIMs in Canada then for my 2005 XC90
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,432
    Ebay?

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • I am hearing some kind of noise coming from the dashboard (like electric short). I am wondering anyone having this trouble at 20k miles.

    Another one is seems like coming from transmission. After raising the speed to 40 - 60 miles and leave the gas pedal. I am hearing some high rpm sound. But i looked the dash board RPM showing less than 2K.

    Thanks in advance
  • Is it good to use Synthetic oil in Volvo XC 90 3.2 AWD 2007 model.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,432
    There's nothing wrong with using synthetic, if that's what yer asking.
    My volvo dealer uses a synthetic blend by default and will use full synthetic if requested.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • abvbyndabvbynd Posts: 10
    I can't speak to any of the other models except the XC90 V8. We run a full synthetic oil (AMSOIL) that I bring to the service. Recently our "dealer" closed and our mechanic moved to a very reliable independent Volvo service facility. We now get all of our service done at this independent (with the exception of warranty service which still must be done by a dealer). Our original tires (Michellins lasted aver 40k, but I have heard others not lasting that long) I am looking at trying the Goodyear ResponsEdge as the come in the 18" size we need. I don't see the maintenance any higher than comparable (BMW, Mercedes, Acura). I also run extended drain periods on all 3 of our Volvos (1998 S70 T5, 2001 S60 T5 and XC90), on the oil (1 year or 15,000-25,000 miles). This has not affected the warranty at all and have never had any engine problems. Look for a good independent Volvo service facility (check with other Volvo owners in your area for recommendations). They are always somewht cheaper. But any warranty or software changes (usually under warranty you must go to a dealer is what I have been told). We have accumulated nearly 1,000,000 miles on our last 4 volvos (our 1985 was traded in a 500,000. Good luck!
  • abvbyndabvbynd Posts: 10
    I have used full synthetic oil in our Volvos since 1985 (760 Turbo that I traded in with 500,000 and never had the engine worked on, did replace the turbo at 265,000). We use AMSOIL (not sure I can mention a brand named here) full synthetic and utilize the extended drain intervals of 1 year or 15,000-25,000 miles). We run this oild in 3 different Volvos (1998 S70 T5 (165,000 miles on it), 2001 S60 T5 (85,000 miles on it) and 2005 XC90 V8 (68,000 miles). Have never had an engine failiure or any engine problems. I bring the oil with me for the change (and if I can't use the extended drain period oil filter) which is only availalable for the time being for the 1998, I just have them put in a new filter at the required interval (5,000 or 7,500) and give them a quart to top off the engine. With nearly 1,000,000 miles total on 4 different Volvo's, I have been doing this since 1985 (at that time Volvo wasn't sure I should run synthetic, but let me anyway). For me a true full synthetic is the only and best way to go for your car to last for many years (we had our 1985 until 1998 and nearly 500,000 miles). Good luck!
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 40,841
    Just curious, but how far away is your Volvo dealer now?

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    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • thanks for all your response. i will use synthetic oil.
  • Thanks a lot.
  • gumercindogumercindo Posts: 12
    This is kind of an old topic, but I wanted to bring it up again. I have a 2006 XC90 (not the v8) with about 30k miles. Starting at about 20k miles, I started getting this musty/BO smell coming out of the vents when the AC unit was turned on (didn't matter if it was AC or heat). Musty smell would run for several mins and then mostly go away. First time I took it to the dealer, they said Volvo has come out with a special disinfectant to get rid of the smell and moisture that's causing the smell. The smell came back and I have to bring in 3-4 more times over a year period (roughly 11k miles).

    Is this an issue relating to the software and afterblow?

    Thanks!
  • My dealer has an ionizer or deionizer that they hooked the car up to. It was done twice and it hasnt come back. This and the afterblow must be turned on by the dealer. My afterblow runs anytime after my AC is on for a long time. Also i think they put in a charcoal filter.

    If your dealer hasnt solved it, find a new one.
  • gumercindogumercindo Posts: 12
    Thanks, Kyle. I am leaning towards going to a new dealer. They confirmed for me that the afterblower was indeed initiated at 22k miles (smell started at around 18-20k). As for the ionizer/deionizer, I haven't heard about that one, but I'll keep it mind next time I bring it in (I'm assuming the smell comes back). Does the ionizer/deionized fix the problem or just masks it for some time until the problem comes back?
  • sundance6sundance6 Posts: 6
    I have a 2003 T6 xc-90 with 85k miles with a huge list of problems from axles to tie rods, to interior leaks to brake boost to ball joints to AWD filaure. Now it is at the dealer for it's 2nd transmission replacement. I get everything repaired at the dealer as it comes up.

    It's nice that Volvo has offered is to warranty the labor and parts but I am out for 6-8 weeks with the inconvenience and expense of a rental car.

    I would like to continue to drive this car.
    It's a really nice machine when it is working.

    I don't feel safe or that it would make sense financially to keep paying the repair costs. The dealership has been empathetic at the horrible experience I have had. One guy there told me to get rid of it. The problem is I paid $49,000 and have over $10,000 in repairs. Easier said than done.
    Shouldn't a Volvo last more than 85,000 miles, be relaible and give the owner a feeling of safe and sound?

    The Service manager said he would ask about a "trade assist" but it would have to be reasonable for me to consider affording another one.

    My wife has the XC70 which has been great but before I take my loyalty to another car brand that can give me peace of mind and share my bad Volvo experience with every one I know,
    I thought I would throw this situation out there to see if any one has any advice for me?

    Do I stay or do I go?
  • Still do not know why there has not been a recall or class action suit against Volvo for this vehicle. I had the same problems, and dealership had no support from Volvo.
  • volvomaxvolvomax Posts: 5,274
    I would explore the trade assist option. If you going to buy another car having Volvo kick in some money will make a new Volvo look better than the competition from a financial standpoint.
    Plus, if you do it this month you can get the 5 yr warranty and free 5 yr maintenance.
  • varughesevarughese Posts: 3
    1-Clicking sound eminating from driver's seatbelt and at front passengers seat belt even when breathing and the click noice is next to the ears causing headache and to the passengers. very annoying - when had it form new - Volvo Service & Sweden HQ cannont resolveit ,said to consider it as a feature :cry: :lemon: .
  • sundance6sundance6 Posts: 6
    "I would explore the trade assist option. If you going to buy another car having Volvo kick in some money will make a new Volvo look better than the competition from a financial standpoint.
    Plus, if you do it this month you can get the 5 yr warranty and free 5 yr maintenance."

    Yes, this sounds enticing assuming I was to buy a new vehicle. The trade value for the XC-90 is shockingly low making the decision to replace the vehicle, including a trade assist versus keeping it at about $30,000.

    Although I understand Volvo does want to make predicitons, it's disappointing not to get any asurance (or at least exteneded waranties) from Volvo about whether I could keep my car with a reasonable level of ongoing maintenance.

    Makes it seem like Volvos are at best, a 5 year vehicle, then sell it before you run into unusally high repair costs.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,432
    Makes it seem like Volvos are at best, a 5 year vehicle, then sell it before you run into unusally high repair costs.

    If your concern is out-of-warranty repairs, then at least Volvo is as high as 5 years. Not so with many of its competitors.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • utesutes Posts: 3
    I have a 2005 XC90 and it sat for about 4 weeks. Yesterday, when I drove it again, I started hearing loud metal sounds from the front of the car while going over bumps, then another even louder metal creak while coasting downhill. It scared me to death! Sounded like something was getting ready to break off! Is it the suspension? Or something not greased properly? Or something really bad? We live in Florida. I have had it regularly serviced at dealerships. Car has 65K miles.
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