Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Acura TL Maintenance and Repair

1178179180181183

Comments

  • rvator4rvator4 Posts: 84
    Wow. 1/3 worn down after 10K miles?

    We have a 2008 TL with 18K miles. All but 6K of those miles are high speed vacation travel miles and all 4 tires still look like brand new.
  • Hi. There are "some" maintenance managers (I have found), that will tell you that your car does not need a front-end alignment, and will "never" tell you to have a rear end alignment. Take a guess as to why not? A machine does the work, so, why no compliance with using it is simply complacency. Also, when the "rear end" is aligned, at least "one time", it's assurance that the front end is aligned with the rear end, and the front of the car is not going in one direction (to the side, or, whatever, like a crab), and the rear is going in a total different direction. When a car's front and rear end are aligned, and tires are rotated during the A1 or B1 inspections, that should assure you that no crazy tire wear is happening. Hope this helps. My first car was a '66 Mustang -289 engine, and I learned a lot (back in the day) -- the hard way. Have applied a few of the basic principles from those experiences, and will not let a maintenance manager talk me out of getting the front and rear ends aligned _ at least once a year! It will save "tire wear" and keep money in your pocket for something else.

    As a "military retiree", I'm just kind of "stuck" on doing right by any vehicle.So, ask about the cost of a rear end alignment and see how "they" balk at the idea of doing so. You'll be buying more tires for your new car, because of the same thing, if you never get the rear end alignment done. :o)
  • mkacuramkacura Posts: 20
    Rob, wow! That's crazy! 1/3 gone at 10k miles on Michelins? There's got to be another factor. Like I said, three year old '09 TL, almost 40k miles and all 4 of my factory Michelins still have 50% left.

    For about a year I was commuting between NJ and Boston on a weekly basis. Now I'm doing mostly local so the tires have seen all kinds of conditions.

    Well, at least it's a lease and you can return it. But I have NEVER read any tire issues with the new TL ('09 and onwards).
  • gvbgvb Posts: 40
    edited June 2012
    Hello, I've searched multiple sites and have found 100's of posts commenting on what seems to be an ongoing problem with Acura/Honda. I bought a new TL and after 18,000 miles, the rotors were warped. I'm 45 years old, have driven many cars and never in my life had warped rotors. In fact, my '91 Integra with 193K miles on it has never had warped rotors. Well, I had them resurfaced and within a couple months, they warped again. Having been through this as well as having read numerous others reporting the same problem, I am done with it.

    My question is, is it possible to upgrade rotors (non Acura/Honda parts) and/or brake pads on my TL to a level where they will not warp under normal use? How much (if any) customization would be involved?

    I welcome your responses...

    Thanks,

    Greg
    zzz
  • rvator4rvator4 Posts: 84
    My first TL was a 2000 and it got warped rotors after about 16K miles. I didn't resurface them, I just installed Brembo rotors and pads. Never had another problem after that. The 2008 we have now is fine so far.
    If you are unfamiliar with replacing rotors, either get someone to help or study the videos available everywhere.
  • gvbgvb Posts: 40
    Thanks for the info. Believe my car already has Bremo on it. Last time I took it in, they mentioned that manual transmission TL's come with it. Not sure if that just means pads? Or rotors & pads. I'll ask if both are Bremo. If they are, any suggestions as to what may be the next level up in terms of durability/performance?

    Greg
    zxz
  • rvator4rvator4 Posts: 84
    Unless Brembo makes an OEM part that is of lesser quality, I cannot offer you any help. They are easy to remove, so I would probably have them resurfaced or replace them myself. I would use a dial indicator and look at the runout and decide. I don't know if removing them and cleaning the mating sides would help or not. If the rotors are warped, replacing the pads will not solve the problem.
    Sorry I cannot help more. I hate braking in a car with warped rotors.
  • gvbgvb Posts: 40
    Thanks for the help. Every bit of info helps.

    Having read so many posts from other Honda/Acura owners complaining of the identical problem, it makes me a bit hesitant to replace them with the same discs that failed this time. Although, could it be just a one-time experience? I've done a little looking around on the web for 'high performance' rotors to fit the TL. While they cost about double/triple the amount of the standard issue rotors I've got on now, is it money well spent? Or, just a good marketing department?

    All I'm looking for are rotors that stand up to normal driving. No big hills, quick stops, endless stop & go traffic....ect. Just perform like every other car I've driven over the last 30 years.
  • nealklugenealkluge Posts: 1
    Same story on my 2010 TL. The dealership is replacing the battery and the HFL ( hands free link). Will post again if the problem persists.

    My son uses the blue tooth phone and the HFL like all the time. Acura Tech told him he should continue using the blue tooth. I told him NOT to use the blue tooth My son is 16 and he will NOT listen to me, unless he is stuck on the road once!!
  • mkacuramkacura Posts: 20
    Acura / Honda factory batteries are never known for their durability. When the warranty of the battery is up, go and get a Die Hard or Interstate.
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 15,630
    the batteries on my 2005 and 2005 Odyssey did not last very long. I ended up replacing them both with a battery from Walmart. Great price, worked well, and lasted fine.

    Honda also tends to put the lowest output battery they can get away with in their cars. If possible, move up to a higher output/capacity one.

    2015 Hyundai Sonata 2.4i Limited Tech (mine), 2013 Acura RDX (wife's) and 2007 Volvo S40 (daughters college car)

  • jlwalkerjlwalker Posts: 4
    My 2004 Mdx battery repeatedly failed. Service station said it was ok, as did dealer. Dealer tech even told me there is no accessory setting on the vehicle (a lie), I went to Sears and got a Diehard. No problems the last 4 years, and use accessories all the time!
  • jkobty2jkobty2 Posts: 210
    I am going with the drain and fill approach. I located both the drain plug and the fill plug, and both are easy access on this car, however I want to know if I can refill the fluid using a spout tube connected to where the level checking dipstick goes, instead of removing the bolt for the fill hole. The dipstick hole is so small no regular funnel would fit in it like normal cars. So I was thinking of using the spout style transmission filler funnel where dipstick housing would fit inside the spout and form a seal and hopefully no fluid drips. Just wondering if anyone has tried this approach.
  • Does anyone have any recommendations for a specific replacement battery for an 04 TL without spending $150 at the dealer? Any thoughts on Costco's Kirkland brand?
  • Go to the bernardi website they sell genuwine acura parts, probably about 30% less than the dealer. I buy most of my stuff from them, if its not on the website just call with the part number and they will direct you from there.
  • epapa1epapa1 Posts: 1
    edited September 2012
    My 2008 TL needed a battery at 4 years and I went to Honda that does all my Maintenance. I have always been very satisfied with everything they do.
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 15,630
    Walmart actually has very good batteries (everlast) and quite reasonable price, installed and everything.

    I just got a new one in my son's 2000TL, but that came from the dealer, since he is away at college and it died on him so we had it towed to the local Honda dealer. 2 days later it got towed back, since the real culprit was a bad alternator.

    all seems good now, and as a side benefit, he said the power windows go up much quicker!

    2015 Hyundai Sonata 2.4i Limited Tech (mine), 2013 Acura RDX (wife's) and 2007 Volvo S40 (daughters college car)

  • camoncamon Posts: 98
    I got a COSTCO battery for my 2000 ACURA. Works fine for going on 4 years now.

    For my 2005 ACURA I went to BATTERYONE and they put in a new one for me right on the spot for under $100 and in under 30 minutes .

    If you do it yourself, be sure the dimensions and post locations are an exact match, or else the battery cable and cover may not align properly.
  • gvbgvb Posts: 40
    I own a 2006 TL and want to upgrade to 18 inch rims. Acrua's eStore, wants close to $2K for a set of 4 installed (tires are extra!). Looking on eBay, I see what appears to be identical rims (Permachrome) for less than half the price which includes shipping. Other than the premium Acura charges, is the difference due to Permachrome?

    I haven't been able to read much about Permachrome. If anyone has experience with, or knowledge of Permachrome and knows of any considerations or drawbacks about it, I welcome your comments.

    Thanks,

    Greg
  • boikoboiko Posts: 82
    I own a 2006 TL and tonight on the way home from Dinner out....my car started to idle very rough. The Engine Check light came on for the first time ever....then the Transmission "D" light started blinking. I just went out and started the car up in front of my house, and with the TL in park saw the VSA and Engine Light come on and it was idling really rough. Then put the car in Drive but no transmission light came on.

    The car has 93,600 miles on it and has been regularly maintained by local Acura Dealer since new. This is problem seemed to come up out of no where...it sounds to me like a computer module has failed. Guess I'll know better when the car gets towed to Acura..since it's a very rough idle with little power. Interested to see what the error code is.

    Anyone seen this type of problem before?

    Thanks,
    -mike-
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 15,630
    check your battery. SOunds a lot like what just happened to my son's TL. ended up dying on him and a new battery put in. That was a temporary fix, since it died out again 2 days later. Turned out to be a defective alternator. So, new one of those on top of the new battery (Probably was time for one of them anyway), and all is well.

    but when it was running short on amps, the dash all lit up, ran ragged, etc.

    2015 Hyundai Sonata 2.4i Limited Tech (mine), 2013 Acura RDX (wife's) and 2007 Volvo S40 (daughters college car)

  • camoncamon Posts: 98
    Yes. This just happened to my 2005TL with 89,000 miles on it. Out of nowhere the engine check light came on and the VSA light with the transmission acting funny. The accelerator pedal felt like it it wasn't giving the engine gas. I shut down re-started and the engine check light came on but not the VSA light.

    I had it towed to the dealer and it was the "APP SENSOR" (accelerator pedal position sensor) that went bad. The total cost to fix was $390 at the dealer. It was on a Saturday so I don't know if I was charged overtime labor, but I had to get it fixed then & there since I was in the middle of a trip.

    Appearantly a failing APP Sensor is common on the TL with this mileage. If this is what you have, we all need to contact ACURA. This expensive repair should not occur with this little mileage.
  • boikoboiko Posts: 82
    OK I now know what the problem is.....

    Count me as yet another PCM/AC Drain Tube/Coil Pack...etc.. victim. I have a 2006 TL w/93,600 Miles on it. Never had even close, to a serious problem with the car before...at least till last night.

    Many of you guy's know the drill, I've since Goggled enough threads on the subject - most of which I've managed to read though over the last few hours.

    All of a sudden car starts to run rough, engine light comes on. Have it towed via flatbed to Acura. Call me later in the day...possible replacement of PCM, Wiring Harness, Coil Pack, etc...

    This is an obvious design flaw. A/C Drain Tube blockage should not lead to water exposure of the PCM...and then cause additional electrical components to fail..leading to an expensive repair bill.

    What is Acura's current stance on this issue/problem...what happens to those who have exceeded the warranty period?

    Any thoughts on this subject would be very helpful.

    Thanks,
    -mike-
  • mkacuramkacura Posts: 20
    That's interesting! A friend of mine has a Honda Accord. Don't know the exact year but somewhere around the same year as your TL. Same thing happened. The A/C drained water onto the onboard main computer and zapped it. $1000 to fix. I don't think he has an extended since he paid.

    I would imagine that if you have an extended warranty that it will be covered. I have an '09 TL with extended warranty and if it happened to me I would definitely ask for coverage. From what I heard the Acura extended warranty is a bumper to bumper coverage.
  • boikoboiko Posts: 82
    Unfortunately, at 6+ years and 93K miles I think I fall into your friends category..and will also have to pay...and for a TL that could run $2-3K depending on the water damage.

    Not a good situation...trying to get a call into Corporate Acura right now since so many people have had this same problem.
  • My 1997 TL just turned 130,000 miles. Typically, when the car starts, I think it goes through a ABS self-check (could hear a little noise from the front). Lately, the ABS warning light has been exhibiting intermittent behavior (may stay on from the beginning and may or may not go off later; or come on after it has been off, etc.) Car is fine otherwise with no braking issue. Dealer wants to charge $200 for diagnostic. I'd appreciate if someone has encountered this similar issue and can share what was done to resolve the problem. Thanks.
  • Go to Pep Boys or AutoZone, they will do the diagnostic check for free.
  • cp1986cp1986 Posts: 2
    Little mileage?
  • I have the option to buy a 2002 Acura TL with 109k miles that still has the original transmission. The owner claims that he's been told by a dealer that the transmission didn't need to be replaced. Using the vin# I had the dealer check if there were any open recalls and they said that all the recalls were satisfied for this vehicle.

    What does this tell me? Does this indicate that at some point the transmission was inspected and they found it to be in good working order without need of replacement? Can I trust this transmission? What would be the prudent way to find out if this transmission is reliable?
  • To clarify my question:

    I know for a fact that the transmission recall service was performed on the vehicle (though I don't know if it was the oil cooler return line revision or the transmission replacement), does this indicate that the problem is solved or is it the case that unless the transmission was replaced there is still a high percentage chance of facing transmission problems down the line?

    Thanks
Sign In or Register to comment.