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Acura TL Maintenance and Repair



  • scottm123scottm123 Posts: 1,501
    It's not so much the "noise" of the air coming in.
    The issue is more with the pressure of the air coming in and "thumping" as it purges through the car looking for an escape.
    I suppose I can see where the noise cancelation could attempt to cancel this out.... but all the noise cancelation in the world can't fix a pressure issue.

    This is common in most 4-door vehicles... and not just sedans.
    I find that cracking the front windows or popping the moonroof solves this pressure issue.
  • I have this same problem on my 1998 Acura EL6. Did you find the solution? I would just like to disable my security. Do you or anyone know how to do this? The dealer hasn't been much help.
  • I have a 1998 Acura EL 6 that the security alarm randomly sets itself off. Does anyone know how to disable this security system. It doesn't seem to matter if I press my remote door locks once or twice or lock them with the key the alarm randomly goes off with very verying times. Just to be able to lock the doors without alarming the system would be fine with me. Thanks to all replies.
  • bodble2bodble2 Posts: 4,519
    As far as I know, you cannot disable the alarm --- it is integrated into the door-locking system.
  • astro1989astro1989 Posts: 4
    Thanks, I was afraid of that but somewhat expected the news because i can find nothing on diabling it.
  • flynlowflynlow Posts: 1
    my 05 TL had about 22000 miles when the brake started squeaking took it to dealer had them look at it and they ended up changing pads and turned the rotors and did it under warranty have been treated great by dealer
  • asully1979asully1979 Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 Acura TL. Within the past 3-4 months, my A/C only blows cold when I'm moving. When I stop for longer than maybe 20 seconds, it starts blowing really warm air. When I finally pick back up the speed, it starts getting cold and it has a really funky smell (kinda like an old musty smell or something). Any idea on what may be the cause? Wanted to get opinions before I go to an expert. I put in more freon and nothing different. Help! :confuse:
  • trailhikertrailhiker Posts: 26
    It sounds like a vacuum leak somewhere either in the vacuum reservoir that is not holding vacuum (could be something a simple as a vacuum check valve but quite often the check valve is part of the vacuum reservoir tank and not individually replaceable), a broken/leaky vaccum line or a leaking vacuum motor that works the actuator arm that opens and closes the air duct door to the heater core (when this air duct door opens comletely with the A/C on, it lets the warm air pass over the evaporator core that can rapidly causes the evaporator core to defrost and that is most likely the smell).

    Being the air gets cold when you are accelerating, the vacuum gets stronger and overcomes a vacuum leak but when you slow down, the vacuum leaks down. The first choice is on a leaky vacuum reservoir tank/check valve but using a vacuum gauge will tell for sure where the leak is at.
  • camoncamon Posts: 98
    I'd also check the radiator mounted electric fans to be sure they are operating to move cooling air through the radiator and A/C coils while the car is not moving. When you first start your car in the morning (before it warms) immediately turn on the A/C and be sure the electric fan motors ( I think there are 2 of them on that year) are running. If not, that will be the problem so then check the fan fuses.
  • asully1979asully1979 Posts: 3
    Thanks for the help! i'm going to be checking immediately on this. I appreciate it SO much!!!!
  • asully1979asully1979 Posts: 3
    Tomorrow when I first start the car I'll have my husband take a look. I appreciate so very much for the help!
  • mogal1mogal1 Posts: 9
    Hello all,

    I am looking at buying a used 2004 TL with 45k miles, private sale, non-navi. Owner wants about $18,800.

    Are there particular issues I should be on the lookout for in this year and model? I'm trying to find a good local mechanic for an inspection but would like to have an idea of potential/likely problem areas before I get in too deep, especially since I would be the third owner, a possible red flag. I'd heard about transmission problems some time ago, is there a production date by which those were fixed?

    One problem that jumps out: the leather in the car (parchment) seems unusually badly worn, the driver's seat is nearly threadbare and has lots of cracks and fissures. Is this a common issue, and if so how have people dealt with it?

    The car also has badly mismatched tires (newish front tires, nearly threadbare rear tires) which would need to be replaced, a jerky passenger side window, and tar spots (on a white car). I think some price adjustments would be in order.

    Can anyone offer any help or advice? Thanks in advance.
  • bodble2bodble2 Posts: 4,519
    Sounds like a car that hasn't been particularly well taken care of....maybe you avoid this one.
  • bdemarrbdemarr Posts: 25
    I have owned my '04 TL since it was new and have been very happy with it. My only complaint is it has been notorious for eating up tires. I just put on my 3rd set (37,000 miles currently) and finally was told by my mechanic NOT to put Z rated tires on there...they are too soft. I went with his suggestion which was Michelin Primacy. About $1k drive out for 4 @ my local NTB. they have a high tread wear :) rating also. I would negotiate that on your deal. As far as the interior, no cracks or tears, but I keep my cars looking nice. 16 miles in the city, 26 plus on the highway. Nice engine-good pick up. No mechanical problems to date other than the tire issue. Good luck-I think it is a great car.
  • rhinoboyrhinoboy Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 TL Type S with 85,000 miles on it. I drive an average of 750 miles a week.

    #1. At what intervals should I be changing the oil? I have been changing the oil every 3,000 miles but this is getting to cost too much and I have heard that I should instead be changing the oil every 5,000 to 7,000 miles.

    #2. At how many miles should I have the timing belt checked or replaced? I have been told by my Accura Dealership that it is recomended at 85,000 miles and costs around $900 dollars due to the amount of labor costs for the 8 hour job.
  • new2carsnew2cars Posts: 71
    Hi fellow Acura TL enthusiasts,

    I parked underneath a tree yesterday for 3 hours yesterday and as I drove away, I noticed plenty of tree sap spots on my entire car. For fear of making it worse, I haven't tried to wash my car by hand because the sap was sticky and I didn't want to harm the paint and further smear the sap.

    What do I do? How should I remove this sap safely? I wanted to take my car into the detailers but I want to make sure they are careful with this sappy stuff. It looks like a risky job. Otherwise, I would prefer to take care of this myself. Help! Any ideas are appreciated. Thanks! :cry:
  • xyz17xyz17 Posts: 10
    Dont know if this is helpful or not...but I had the same issue with my Camry and I just washed it...actually it rained a couple of days after the Tree SAP fell on my car and everything got washed away...
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,681
    Sometimes very cold plain water works the best.
  • upstatedocupstatedoc Posts: 710
    I had tree sap fall on our '07 MDX almost a year ago and its finally starting to flake off. Whatever you do don't scrape it off. I was very reluctant to use anything to remove it. This must have been industrial strength sap.
  • aghmomaghmom Posts: 1
    This is my first post so I hope it is in the right place?

    We just had a 2002 acura tl transported from florida (it was my moms car) she had purchased a new car and hadn't started the acura in 3 weeks in the hot florida sun; when the transport guy went to start the car it wouldn't start so he sprayed some wd40 on the air filter and it started - car is delivered started fine but idling very rough and check engine light is now on - we replaced the air filter still nothing - I have made an appointment with acura for tomorrow but don't want to get ripped off any ideas would be truly appreciated - should we put dry gas and fill the tank it is at about a quarter tank???

    Thanks in advance!!
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