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Acura TL Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • camoncamon Posts: 98
    1. Filters cost about $7 (Honda original equipment).
    2. Crush washers about $0.75 (cents)
    3. Mobile 1 fully synthetic $30.00 (case of 6 quarts at Costco. . only need 4.5 quarts per change)
  • camoncamon Posts: 98
    I just got a "Check Fuel Cap" warning on my 05TL display screen. I checked it, it was not loose. I drove the car, filled the tank and drove it some more, but the warning is still there.

    The owner's manual states that if you tighten the cap and drive over 30mph for 45 seconds this warning should go out It further states that if its not the cap, a malfunction warning will come on to replace it. Well neither happened, the light is still on after 2 trips 55miles and over 60mph speeds. There is also a small "envelope" icon on the various display screens as I scroll through them, presumably indicating a warning message is showing on the main screen.

    Anyone run into this situation??
  • prigglypriggly Posts: 642
    Isn't the TL a known rattletrap? That is but one of the factors which kept me from buying one. I hate rattles in cars, especially now when so many cars are entirely rattle-free. There is no excuse for Acura making such rattle-prone vehicles.
  • prigglypriggly Posts: 642
    I bought a brand new 1989 Acura Legend from this dealership. It had paint defects on the hood right out the door. I brought it back and they replaced the hood . . . with the wrong hood from another model. Then this had to be replaced. I never went back from this time onwards. I see things have not changed in 18 years at David McDavid.

    Otherwise, the car was lovely and I enjoyed it for the time I had it. Incidentally, the car had NO rattles, was very quiet and an excellent highway cruiser.
  • bodble2bodble2 Posts: 4,519
    "...especially now when so many cars are entirely rattle-free."

    Really? I actually find more and more cars are prone to rattles. Even Toyota and Lexus models, previously known for their workmanship, are exhibiting more rattles. And buying upscale brands is also no guarantee against rattles. In fact, some of the more rattle-free cars I have experienced are American brands rental cars, of all things!
  • I have a 2004 Acura TL that has been working great and cooling very well. Last week I was idling for about 1/2 hour with the A/C on and I turned off the car and later that day when I went to start, the A/C appeared to start but didn't cool. Here is what I checked:

    1. When I turn on the system, the condensor fan kicks on and adjustment in the engine rpm is heard.

    2. Checking the pressure on the low when the A/C is on high/cool shows way into the red.

    3. The clutch is not turning the compressor or doesn't appear to be.

    4. none of the hoses are cool.

    5. There is no engaging or disengaging of any kind.

    Thanks in advance for any help.

    Bryan
  • camoncamon Posts: 98
    I'd check the condenser fuse to see if it has blown.
  • prigglypriggly Posts: 642
    You're right about the American cars being rattle-free. My 2006 Chevy Impala SS, which I bought in place of a TL, is entirely so. And the power of those 303 HP and 323 lb.-ft. of torque, oh, the power . . . it is exhilarating!
  • Thanks for the info. I checked all the fuses in the under the hood box and under the dash, is there somewhere else it could be or an area where it could be the relay? I just also noticed that the Subwoofer doesn't work and when I try to turn it on via the NAVI, it stays in the "off" position.

    Any additional help will be most appreciated. Thanks.
  • I have an 04 TL with NAVI. I noticed that the subwoofer was not working so when I went to the touchscreen, it was in the "off" position. When I went to turn it on/increase the volume, it doesn't move out of the off position. Is there a fuse or relay set up directly for this? If so where is it? I checked under the dash and under the hood fuse boxes and everything appears to be "ok"

    Thanks...
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,420
    Does this apply to your car?

    Speaker Test

    The audio unit has a speaker self-diagnostic function. To run the self-diagnostic function, do the following:

    Entering the Self-diagnostic Function

    1. Turn the ignition switch ACC (I).



    2. Press and hold the" Preset 1, Preset 3 and Power" buttons at the same time. NOTE:

    o If the audio unit enters the self-diagnostic mode, the following will occur.
    o Radio tunes to FM 97.9 MHz
    o DIAGNOSTIC (DIAG) is displayed.
    o FM 97.9 MHz is broadcast through the selected speaker.
    o The buttons that operate are Volume Up/Down, Seek +1-, and radio remote switch input for CH +1- and Volume Up/Down.
    o If the audio unit does not enter the self-diagnostic function, turn the ignition switch OFF and repeat step 1 and step 2.



    3. Cycle up or down with the radio remote switch "CH +1-" button or the radio unit "Seek +1-" button and check each speaker.

    o Driver's door speaker and left tweeter
    o Front center speaker
    o Front passenger's door speaker and right tweeter
    o Right rear speaker
    o Subwoofer
    o Left rear speaker
    o All speakers

    4. If any speaker does not sound, check for an open in the wire between the audio unit and its speaker. If the wire harness is OK, replace its speaker.

    Exiting the Self-diagnostic Function
    Turn the ignition switch OFF.

    MODERATOR

  • camoncamon Posts: 98
    I meant to type "compressor" fuse, not "condenser" fuse.
    In any event, since you checked all your fuses, that exhausts the ideas I have.
    I had a compressor fuse blow on one of my earlier Acura's by accidentally cycling on and off the AC a bit too fast, multiple times . It resulted in simptoms similar to what you described.
  • charles12charles12 Posts: 79
    I have a 2008 TL, starting from 500 miles, rattles come from all part you described (one afer another) -rear, 2 doors, and front center. I sent my car to the dealer a few times and they fixed the rear one (but after 4 months, it seems to me comes back again). They could not get the one from front door fixed.

    I call the Acura co. One person kept saying that the car is designed like this because it is a sport car (what a jok from Acura).

    These rattles make it feel a very cheap car.

    My Leuxs (made in JP) car has no such kind of problem at all. I will not consider Acura in the future.
  • bodble2bodble2 Posts: 4,519
    I empathize with what you're saying, especially about the car feeling cheap with all the rattles. Unfortunately, many of the rattles are temperature sensitive, so they tend to come and go with the weather changes. I've never trusted the dealer to be able to fix rattles. Your best bet may be to try to pinpoint the source of the rattle yourself. The good thing (if you can call it good) is, after awhile you learn to tune out the noise! :sick:
  • bodble2bodble2 Posts: 4,519
    any owner of a 2004 - 08 TL has installed an after-market alarm system to his TL, on top of the factory system? And if so, which brand, how was the install done, and how well is it working? Thanks in advance.
  • charles12charles12 Posts: 79
    what do you mean by tune out the noise? Did you fix the noise by yourself or tell the dealer where the noise comes from?
  • bodble2bodble2 Posts: 4,519
    What I meant was after awhile, you condition yourself to mentally ignor the noises. As for fixing the rattles, I find most any such fixes are temporary. Even if successful, they come back eventually. Hence the tuning out part, because after awhile, you just go, "what the heck, it's just a stupid car!"
  • charles12charles12 Posts: 79
    Eaxctly, I am now turning on the radio or play CD loundly and think it is an Acura only acura - not Lexus/BMW. Said to myself what do you expect from Acura? I am now classifying the Acura to a lower level car just like Accord.

    Let it go and will never never consider Acura in the future.
  • mikep7mikep7 Posts: 7
    was gone on vacation for a few weeks, came back and now my car just dies at red lights, but it also depends on weather or not the a/c is on. After a few seconds at a red light, the RPM will drop really low, where the car will start to shake, and then just shut off, but will turn right back on, but just find it annoyin when it shuts off. anybody had a similar problem and how did you fix it?
  • mikep7mikep7 Posts: 7
    mine is having the same problem, how did it go at the dealer?
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