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Toyota Tundra: Problems & Solutions



  • wcc1958wcc1958 Posts: 1
    Appreciate the info on the slotted rotors and semi mettalic pads. How much does that run? Also got screwed on the co2 sensors... past warranty.
  • mn_tundramn_tundra Posts: 1
    Get Powerslot rotors and Hawk (metallic!!) brake pads. You can get them through Performance Products, but I found them online even cheaper. $90 each for the rotors and $50 for the pads. That's cheaper than OEM stuff through Toyota or about the same as aftermarket stuff.

    The problem is that they undersized the pads on the early Tundras, causing overheating and warping of the rotors. The Hawk uses a better heat dissipating material than the OEM pads and the pad rotor combo grabs like my Beemer :). Also, after the brake in always heat temper any rotor about every 3 months. Do this by very heavy braking from highway speed on a cool rotor (freeway exit ramps work great). But.... never stop completely either while braking in or tempering your rotors. It creates a hot spot where the pad is and leads to warping. It'll help keep and rotor from warping

    I have 20K mi on the powerslot/hawk combo and no sign of any warping. Let's see; with a little homework, performance brakes for the price of aftermarket replacements?? It's a no brainer.

    BTW, NEVER use ceramic brake pads. The heat dissipating properties suck and warp rotors!! Vehicle mfgs use them, since they produce less brake dust and it's the big push at the auto parts store. That is unless you don't care about braking performance and prefer clean wheels. I myself just use a carwash.

    Oh and I'm sure most of you have heard about Toyota's double secret recall on the Tundra/Sequoia brakes. A set up like mine solves the problem for life, at about the same price, with improved performance.

    Good Luck and let me know if you have any questions!!
  • I have a 2000 Tundra on which the heater only has one speed - High. Low and medium do not work. Since there are only 2-wires to the fan, the speed control has to happen between the 3-position fan switch and the fan. I'm 99% sure its not the fan switch because I have another and both switches provide only high speed.

    Therefore, I assume there is fan speed/voltage regulator somewhere attached to a metal heatsink. I have no idea exactly what I'm looking for or where to look.

    I imagine this fan speed/voltage regulator is generic across many Toyotas. What is it? Where is it? Any ideas would be appreciated.
  • frzntndrafrzntndra Posts: 1
    Hello there

    I am new to this board, and have a ? about brake replacement. I am not satisfied with level of detail:(lack of color photos, vague descriptions of the brake replacement process), contained in the chilton's toyota tundra repair guide. I am wondering if anybody might know of a more customer friendly, detailed oriented book or website I might peruze for this tundra amateur "do it yourselfer?"

  • mitundramitundra Posts: 2
    This may be a stupid question for those who have done this already, but what is the procedure for replacing the O2 Sensor on my 00 Tundra. I looked at these for a minute the other night and couldn't plainly see any head to mount a wrench on securely. Any help would be apprecitated.

    The history of my 2000 Tundra goes as follows. It is a SR5 4wd Access Cab V-8 that I purchased new in May of 2000. It had some vibration problems in the begining and was remedied with a couple of tire balancings. I installed new pads in the front at around 45000 miles. I had a transmission problem starting around 53000 miles. It would shift so hard it felt like it was going to blow then it would run fine. It was in the dealer several times for this and everytime they said they couldn't pinpoint the problem. It finaly went at 58000 miles an she was done. I was given a Matrix for a loaner while they replaced the tranny with a new one. This took them 4 weeks to get the tranny and another few days to fix. They had my truck for 27days and the bill would have been $2800 but it was covered under warrenty.

    I installed a set of Goodyear AT/D tires and they might has well have been square on this truck they drove like crap for two years till I couldn't stand it anymore. I replaced those with a set of Bridgstone Dueller HL alenzas and they are awesome. The parking brake seized around 80000 miles and then I developed a slight vibration at braking. I had the rears inspected and they said they were fine but wanted to charge over $400 to replace the front rotors and pads. I was able to get the best pads and two new rotors for $121 out the door and did it myself. This was done at 96000 miles along with changing the spark plugs and gear lubes. Unfortuantly I still have a slight vibration that I think is a warped rear drum. It has developed a slight exhaust leak that is likely a crack in the header.

    The truck now has 102000 miles and the check engine light just came on for the first time. I reset it and it was off for a day then came back on again. All in all it's been a great truck but has had more problems than any other of the 4 Toyotas I have owned. I want to dump this truck and get a new one but I want to wait to get the new plastic bed on the Tundra and I would really like diesel. I may be shopping for a domestic diesel soon if the price is right. I thought I would have 0 problems with this one to 120000 miles but it was not the case here, and miine is far better then alot of those on this and other websites.
    Hope somebody has an answer for the O2 Sensor replacement I figure I can do both around a hundred cheaper then the dealer can do one for. So what do I have to lose .
  • lauraflauraf Posts: 1
    Let me set YOU and every other Toyota owner straight about Toyota, Service Campaigns and their lack of response to the ball joint problem. I have a 02 Tundra and you can count me as AT LEAST case number 7. My ball joint failed on June 18 and I'm LUCKY, VERY LUCKY to be alive. Toyota's response to the problem is abmismal to say the least. I contacted headquarters, met with regional reps and all the same reply "we don't know anything about the recall." I asked if they would repair my vehicle with new "recall quality" parts and they said NO. I had to fight tooth and nail even to get them to replace the drivers side ball joint. You see I checked this problem out thoroughly and everyone else who has experienced the failure have been told that it must be something they did and THEY HAD TO PAY TO HAVE THEIR VEHICLE REPAIRED! Not only that, at least one case ended up having the second ball joint fail a year later. They say my vehicle "MAY" be involved in the UPCOMING service campaing. MAY BE INVOLVED!!! It already happened. How much more proof do they need that there is a problem? So in the end, all I could get them to do is replace the front ball joints with old parts. I'll still have to take the vehicle back to have them replaced again IF AND WHEN I receive my notice. It is already the middle of July. Has anyone yet to receive a notice? I am warning ALL Tundra owners. Be careful, extremely careful. You won't get any warning that the failure is going to happen. I had squeeking/grinding in the ball joint since my truck was 8 months old. It couldn't be serviced because it is a sealed joint. The squeaking/grinding comes and goes. At the time the joint failed, no squeeking/grinding. You see, the squeeking/grinding is that scratched joint wearing away the joint. If you are experiencing or have ever experienced this same sound or problem, you may just want to park your truck. That's what I have done. Once the ball joint goes, so does your brakes and unless you are lucky enough to have just turned into a parking lot when it happens, you may not live to tell your story. I'm waiting for the "Service Campaign" to reach my mail box. Once I get the new parts, the truck is going to be sold and I'll never buy another Toyota product again. Anyone can make a mistake but how they handle a problem is a true indicator of how good the company is. Toyota failed miserably in this department. Their actions lead me to believe that they are hiding or running from a very serious problem.

    Need to know more? You can see my complaint on the NHTSA web site. They have all my photos and a complete chronological report of the events and my attempt to get Toyota to acknowlege the defect.

    Now, quit defending Toyota. Obviously they have more than enough high powered lawyers doing that.
  • I have an 05 dbl cab (3400 mi.) with the same problem. Toyota says it's a normal thing and they have known about it since the late 90's but they do not have a fix for it. According to them it's just a thing you live with :(
  • Just got my dbl cab out of the shop for about the 4th time since march (only 3400 miles on it so far). I have spoken with the regional reps, received a case # etc. They are still claiming that the rumble I have is caused by the exhaust and there is no fix at this time. I asked for a damper to be placed on the exhaust to take away the vibration and the rep said that they didn't have anything like that and refused to go to an outside source to get one.

    I was also getting a bad vibration when taking off and a rubbing/scraping sound when turning. They installed some sort of anti-friction part in the rear end and re-lubed everything. This seems to have taken care of these problems (shouldn't have had them in the first place!)
  • raspyrx7raspyrx7 Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Tundra and I had the brake problems and the exhaust manifold problems too. I spent almost 2yrs fighting the brakes with them, I was one of the first to get the "fix" because I was ready to arbitrate it. For the most part its a good truck, but Toyota customer service is the worst I have ever experienced in my life... and I've had a handful of different brand cars. This exhaust manifold bit drives me through the roof... its a common problem, typically around 40k miles... how joyously convenient. They refuse to fix the problem, they refuse to show any level of concern on the phone or through their website. I have been spreadin the word about how crappy their customer service is, in hopes others don't get fooled like I did. Toyota customer service ended at the 3.0l V-6 head gasket issues. If anybody has any luck gettin their manifolds fixed outside of warranty I'd be surprised and happy for em... I'm fighting to get reimbursed for installing headers to fix their design flaw.
  • rvboyrvboy Posts: 12
    :mad: Hey everyone, I called Toyota today 7-18-05(1-800-331-4331) The recall started as of 7-15-05 and they are starting with the 01 Tundra's 1st and then 02-03-04.
    I just bought my 02 in March of this year, so it was a good thing I called because they did not have my vin# on file. I gave them all my info. and they said I should get a notice in the mail within a few months. I told them I tow a 6000 pound travel trailer with mine and this would not be cool for me to lose control of everything.
    They told me that the 1st sign of a bad ball joint would be vibration on the front end and then I should take it in, and that this is only hapenning to a few trucks.SO FAR !!!!
    I bought a Toyota because consumer reports shows it's the most reliable truck out there.Just my luck they now have there 1st major recall !!! Own a 94 Ford Explorer also, been through the Firestone tire recall.
  • berniek2berniek2 Posts: 1

    I just started to do the same thing and then I put the screw back in.
    What did the dealer do for you? How much did it cost?

    Thanks for any help you can provide

    Bernie K
  • heywood1heywood1 Posts: 839
    My 2001 4x4 AccessCab Ltd (28,000mi.) needs new brake pads. Does any kind of recall apply? Should I be looking at OEM or aftermarket pads? My rotors are fine (but need to be turned), according to the dealer.

    BTW: Had my 02 sensor replaced today under recall. No probelms. Cost me $zero.
  • chwoodchwood Posts: 7
    I had my 04 Tundra DC 4x4 SR5 for just shy of a year. In February, an uninsured motorist broad sided the passenger side of my truck as he ran a red light while sleeping, nice (had 2200 :cry: miles on it). Me, my two young kids and the in-laws were in it. Luckily everyone was okay except for some aches and pains and my then-10-month-old son had a cut on his face from the harness(?) on his carseat.

    The truck was spun a little over 180 degrees and the force of the impact sheered the spare tire cable and launched it into a yard nearby. The bulk of the force of the impact was absorbed by the rear axle. However, the rear driver's side tire was knocked off the rim and as it slid on the road the rim was ground down a half inch. There was some damage to the bed next to the rear passenger side door and the step was folded under the body a bit.

    If I could have found my spare (which I thought had been stolen or ?) I think I could have drove it away.

    The 90 Ford T-bird that hit us pretty much had the long front end compressed in to 3-4 foot ball of steel. Good thing for crumple zones for that schlepp. He was okay, except he declared bankruptcy pretty quickly after the accident.

    I can tell the side impact rating from me is outstanding, it went onto two side wheels for a second but we never felt like we were going to roll.

    Only one issue since I got it back from the body shop (Ream Auto Body, Marion IA - good folks, good work):
    - a shrill squeak comes the rear suspension or bed mounting when going over minor bumps (TSB SU003-04 seems to address the same noise - dealer will check it out next friday)

    Other issues:
    - it pulls to right even after dealer 1-time free adjustment since purchase;
    - popping and ticking after driving it (I figure its from hot/cold expansion) but now that I have 10K on it I figured it would be okay)
    - it lurches at stops intermittently (dealer says it is okay ???)
    - the power steering pump gets pretty loud after starting and cranking it like leaving the driveway or a parking spot - again the dealer says it is okay as the system is under 1200(?) psi and the pump is playing catch up.

    If anyone has any ideas about the alignment, lurching or steering let me know. The customer service rep said that when the previous alignment was done, it was with factory tolerances. I would assume it was when it left the factory. GAH.

    I hope no one has to test the safety your Toyota like we did.

    The truck otherwise has been great...
  • rvboyrvboy Posts: 12
    First off I'm very happy you and your family are okay !! I too was hit by an uninsured motorist last Feb. After they fixed my crappy GM van I traded it in for a used 02 Tundra that had 45,000 miles on it.I forgot the [non-permissible content removed] trucks(owned a Nissian 4x4 back in 1989) they like to idle higher when the heater/defroster or sometimes with the AC on ,so when I would leave a stop light or would brake to pull up to a stop it felt like it wanted to lurch forward. Bought a can of intake throttle body cleaner and sprayed down the accelerator linkage and sprayed inside the air intake and it seems to have helped also put in a $50 K&N air filter. The truck still had the factory Bridgestone tires(size-P2657016) and when I test drove the truck it didn't pull to either side.At 53,000 miles I replaced the tires with Dayton Timberline tires which is made by Bridgestone but they only had them in a LT2457516 size and now I noticed it sometimes pulls to the right and I checked to make sure all the tires have the same air pressure so I'm not sue what it is because sometimes it doesn't do it??
    My exsust pipe pops only in gear and it reminded me of the noise new pipes make when you shut the vehicle off. Mechanic buddy of mine heard it when he was in the truck and said it was nothing to worry about. I sprayed lubricate on all 4 shock mountings and that took away the squeaking sounds although the dealerships have a new mount kit they can install to fix this problem.Brakes are great just had to have my buddy adjust the rear brakes and man they are right there but I don't know if the past owner had the problems with the rotors and I'm just running on what he replaced, same with the 02 sensors don't know if he replaced them but I don't have that famous check engine light on.There is a recall on the lower ball joints including the 04 Tundras.My buddy did say Tundras are indestructible !!! I believe it. Thanks for your posting, rvboy from Wisconsin says goodnight.
  • sfh1sfh1 Posts: 8
    >size and now I noticed it sometimes pulls to the right and I checked to make >sure all the tires have the same air pressure so I'm not sue what it is because >sometimes it doesn't do it??

    Sounds like a break caliper is hanging intermittently. Might want to check them or the brake lines. My truck had a failing brake line that made the caliper hang sometimes.
  • ruopsruops Posts: 2
    The transmission on our 2000 Tundra failed at 45,000 miles therefore was replaced under warrantee. Now the replacement transmission is having the same signs and symptoms of impending failure. The dealer and corporate offices of Toyota state that the next replacement will be at my cost.

    Could anyone direct me to a source indicating what the transmission failure rates for the Tundra are? Also, can anyone provide any advice to compel Toyota to cover the cost of the next replacement?
  • rvboyrvboy Posts: 12
    Thanks sfh1 for your reply, that makes sense that it would only do it some of the time.
  • fastfjrfastfjr Posts: 11
    Are you pulling tree stumps out???
  • westtxwesttx Posts: 16
    I have a 2005 DC SR5 and it has a keyless remote, but apparently no alarm. I was looking through the owner's manual and saw where the light should blink on the dash to indicate that one is armed. The dealer said it has an ignition kill switch that triggers when the truck is towed or if there is an attempt to start without the key. Dealer also mentioned that it is an 250.00 option. Has anyone heard of this? I figured since it had a remote that it would at least have an alarm that set off the horn and lights. I really don't want to go after market, anyone have any suggestions?
  • toyotakentoyotaken Posts: 897
    The keyless entry is not an alarm. On the Tundra, the security system is a separate option that is available, not standard equipment. You're dealer is telling you the truth.

This discussion has been closed.