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Toyota Tundra: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • capt2capt2 Posts: 57
    Ok jerk...I havn't had occasion to use the jack either, but I would expect it to work. When I bought the truck I didn't spec the towing pacage, it was already there. It would have been nice if some one had said "throw away that cap" since they deceided to put a hole in the front so water could get trapped. Guess we can't all be smart as you.
  • charley2charley2 Posts: 5
    You should be able to clear your trouble codes by removing your negative battery terminal for 30 seconds or more. That should reset your Check Engine light. If the code comes back, it's an ongoing problem. If that happens, first make sure you haven't pulled any vacuum hoses by accident; then get the code read with a reader or analyzer. BTW, I believe you can't do the paperclip thing anymore on GM vehicles after '96 when the newer OBD II standard went into effect.
  • charley2charley2 Posts: 5
    I have an '00 Tundra SR5 V8, and here's what I've found out so far:

    Brake rotor warpage is common, and seemingly chronic in at least '03 and earlier tundras. Amazing, with 4 pistons per caliper, that the system would contain this flaw.

    Some people wonder about ceramic pads, but I think this traps more heat at the rotor face because they're really insulative.

    Some people are considering slotted rotors, which would be great for dissipating dust and some heat, but then you could actually create more heat on the metal under heavy braking because you have less metal contact with the pads. Also, I may be wrong, but it used to be that you could not have slotted or drilled rotors turned - they're not serviceable.

    I'd look good semimetallic or metallic pads that have the cleaning grooves in the pads themselves. Either that, or get fibrous (like Kevlar) pads. Me, I just quit riding the brakes and it seems okay these days.

    The O2 sensors were bulletined for earlier Tundras. I had both mine replaced free, and they replaced my intake manifolds too - also free. Before that, the engine ran really lean, feeling "dry" and lacking smoothness, and triggering the Check Engine light chronically.

    There is a lurch in the A340-series transmission, usually in 3rd gear upshift under heavy acceleration, and this can sometimes take the rear differential out. This is not a broken tranny but seems to be an inherent quirk of these transmissions in the V8 Tundras.

    My torque converter went out at 93k miles. Seems like the lockup pistons got trashed. Found a rebuilt torque converter at drivetrain.com for $100 plus core. They have tranny rebuild kits for about $250 that includes juswt about everything (excludes the torque converter).

    Lots of people report stalling when coming to a stop or going out of Park. In my Tundra, this was due to the fuel pump starting to fail. This also happened in my GMC van, and it was also the fuel pump. Both were repaired and the problem went away in both vehicles. The GMC was done at a garage for about $280; the Tundra went to the dealer and cost over $700. Both of my pumps went out a few months after the big hurricanes in '05, and I suspect contaminated (water, or something) fuel at the stations. Either that, or that darned MTBE they used to use - that stuff is engine-killer because you'd lose so much octane so quickly. Short shelflife.

    You park the truck with the headlights on, they go off automatically. You open the passenger door before the lights go off, then close the door, and, guess what; they stay on until the battery dies. I think it's a logic flaw in the circuitry relating to an open loop (failure to anticipate in logorythm) in the seat pessure sensor feedback handling. My Tundra has no audible or visible warning that the lights have been left on, so it's a real pain.

    From my own experience, and from other postings I've read here, choosing the right dealer is critical. There are excellent Toyota dealers out there, and there are crooks too. A tip to Toyota dealers: If you're looking for a service manager, don't hire anyone with the following on their resumes: Brake Check, AAMCO, Midas, Cottman, or any of those other high-pressure folks. You want to improve service revenues? Is it worth eliminating your car-purchase customer base? I'm assuming that dealers make their money from unit sales, and having a cutthroat service manager is the best way in the world to lose unit sales customer base. Heck, what's worse is, if you do shoddy work or don't acknowledge problems as covered under warranty, and if you don't lose the customer vis-a-vis sales, you'll probably reinherit your own poor workmanship when they trade the car back in for their next one.

    Also, and last tip, is if you buy a used Toyota from a Toyota dealer, make certain it's a Certified Used Vehicle. If they don't Certify it, they've looked at it and decided not to take the chance. If they do Certify it, you get a 7-year, 100,000 mile extended warranty on drivetrain, plus other continued warranty support. Not all used Toyotas are Certified. My Tundra is sitting 1,400 miles away, after the torque converter went out in the middle of nowhere (somewhere between Knoxville and Chattanooga, and I live in Houston, TX). I thought I had extended coverage because I bought it from a Toyota dealer when it was 2 years old. Apparently, mine is not a Certified Used Vehicle. I borrowed someone's car to get back home, so the roundtrip will run about $600 in gas and at least three days' downtime for traveling. What a drag. That doesn't even include the (relatively cheap) repair.

    If you're thinking about going from, say, GM to a Tundra, do some research. I'm originally from Hawaii, and Toyota's reputation was bulletproof when it came to reliability. My GM (Chevy 1500) needed two a/c compressors, five or six window motors, a water pump and two alternators and a fuel pump in six years. My Tundra has needed only a fuel pump and now a torque converter in four years. However, my GM never broke down to where I couldn't get to help. My Tundra has left me on the side of the road twice, and both times with major repairs required. I'm starting to think I'd rather just buy the foo-foo stuff on GM vehicles rather than deal with the major breakdowns that my Tundra goes through. I love my Tundra when it's behaving, but I've started to lose confidence in its major systems so I'll not take it on the road again and I probably won't buy another one for now (mine is getting traded in as soon as it is back in Houston). And the brake vibration really is annoying.....
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    Not necessary. If you think someone is being uncivil, either don't answer them, or contact me.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • newellnewell Posts: 15
    YA BABY!!! Keep the "Kids" in line!!!
    Regarding the tow hitch receiver; I checked my 2004 DC hitch which I don't use either, but Toyota has addressed that problem: my cap has two slots either side to the end of cap to drain any moisture collected inside. Hey love this message board!! Keep up the good work passing on info.
    Mark/Cape Cod
  • kholleykholley Posts: 1
    Where is the oil filter located in the 2006 Tundra? Once I find it, is there anyhtingelse I need to know about changing it other than the obvious?
  • Hi there,

    My husband and I own a 2002 Toyota Tundra and have noticed lately that there is a "thumping" sound that sounds like it is coming from the back of the truck. He mostly notices it while accelerating after the truck has been sitting for a while.

    Anyone ever experience this?
    Thanks in Advance
  • paliguy81paliguy81 Posts: 7
    Musicangel,

    That thump is your transmissoin shifting back into first gear. I would just check and see if it is time for a transmission flush..but becareful, sometimes that can do more damage than good..so do your research and ask alot of questions.
  • paliguy81paliguy81 Posts: 7
    I've been on this forum for as long as i can remember, and have been trying to resolve my 01' sequoia's tick tick sound, this is definitely a defect toyota needs to resolve, but im guessing it would be ridiculously expensive for them. Well, I purchased some headers off ebay from SSautochrome for about $250..came with both headers, gaskets, bolts...had a mechanic i know put them in for me...which fit perfectly btw, and GOODBYE TICK TICK SOUND!!!! my sequoia finally sounds normal again :shades: when looking for an installer, dont let them lie to you..it took my mechanic about 6 hours to put them in(not 14 like some shops said), and that was with serveral breaks. So yes, only way is to replace your exhaust manifolds. All n all..i love me Sequoia ;)
  • ergoergo Posts: 56
    Dissappointed with Toyota's refusal to comply in 2003...and fighting it thru the 2006 model year. :lemon:

    WASHINGTON — Toyota Motor Corp. will spend millions to deactivate front-seat passenger air bag cut-off switches in nearly 160,000 Tundra pickups to avoid having to install a costlier child safety seat anchoring system.

    The Japanese automaker is taking the action after the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration last week on June 28 rejected Toyota's petition to waive a federal safety regulation that requires most vehicles built after September 2002 and equipped with the cut-off switch to also have a child seat anchor system known as LATCH — for lower anchorages and tethers for children.

    The regulation was meant to ensure that child seats stay in place in a crash, especially in vehicles with smaller rear-seating, such as pickups.

    At the time the regulation was adopted, 600 children under the age of 5 were killed every year in auto crashes and another 70,000 were injured.

    Children are at high risk of death or injury from airbags that deploy. That's why child seats aren't allowed in front seats that don't have an airbag cut-off switch, which activates the airbag only if it senses an adult is in the passenger seat.

    Deactivating the switch means the air bag will always deploy, making it unsafe to ever put a child in the front seat.

    Toyota will voluntarily recall the pickups, beginning in mid-September, after completing engineering of the parts to deactivate the air bag cut-off switch, spokesman Bill Kwong said Friday.

    "We always recommend that child seats are used in the rear as children are safest there," Kwong said. Owners will get notice of the recall in September, he said.

    Advocates for Highway and Auto Safety said Toyota shouldn't be allowed to simply deactivate the switches. Toyota's failure to provide the latches "is not merely an incidental statistical artifact but a clear and present danger to the children who ride in child restraints in the front passenger seats of those vehicles," said Henry Jasny, general counsel for the Washington-based group.

    Kwong said there may have been some engineering issues that make it impractical to add the latches rather than deactivate the airbag cut-off switch.

    He said the exact cost of the recall isn't known — only that the fix is expected to require two hours of labor.

    At more than $100 for labor, it could cost more than $16 million if all vehicles are serviced, he said. It isn't known what the parts will cost since they are still being designed, he said.

    In its ruling, NHTSA took no position on whether Toyota could comply by simply deactivating the switches.

    Kwong said beginning in the 2006 model year, Toyota deactivated its front passenger air bag cut-off switch to satisfy the regulations.

    In June 2005, Toyota acknowledged that 156,555 Toyota Tundras from the 2003-05 model years didn't comply with the child seat anchor safety regulation.

    The automaker asked NHTSA to waive the regulation and spent more than a year trying to convince the agency it wasn't required to install child-seat anchoring systems.

    Toyota lost the debate last week, when NHTSA rejected the company's final appeal.

    Toyota noted that it hadn't received any customer complaints and that there were no injuries reported as a result of the lack of the anchoring system in the front seats of the trucks. Tundras have compliant child safety latches in rear seats.

    "However, the fact does not render the absence of the anchorages in the front seats inconsequential," NHTSA chief Nicole Nason said in a June 28 notice published June 28.

    Small children's safety "depends on proper installation of the child-restraint systems in which they ride."

    NHTSA also noted that parents with vehicles built before 2002 who mistakenly believed their vehicles complied with the regulation have "used seatbelt latch plates, drilled holes through the nylon webbing of the seatbelt" in an effort to use the front seat.


    Frightening that they could get away with that just to save some coin. :mad: No wonder they make more money than the other automakers (who complied in 2003!) :(
  • rarerumrarerum Posts: 1
    How do I add ATF to my 2006 base model tundra; 4.0 2WD AUTO TRANS
  • I've a 2000 4WD Limited and have had all the recall brake issues done (I've got hard copies of TSB's if you need) and just turned 49K on OE tires. I started to notice "mild" steering wheel shimmy 58-65 MPH on various types of Interstates, asphalt, cement, etc. Put on new Geolanders, had front end alligned, still shimmied. Had alignment checked, tires "road force balanced", one tire replaced, and shimmy was reduced but still there. Could this be a ball joint problem? Or what? Anyone with this experience?
  • I just lost the "chirp" which follows locking/unlocking doors with the remote. It's probably wired into the headlamp circuit since the lights still flash, but the sound is gone. Anyone know where the Piezo is located? I can't find it and dealer manuals don't seem to show it.
  • kkirkkkirk Posts: 4
    Have you tried the procedure in the manual? There's a procedure to turn the chirp on or off.
  • Thanks, yes, I've tried to program with remote many times to no avail. It's the device under the hood
  • I bought an 05 tundra crew cab in march 05 and the beast has been nothing but problems. My current dilemna is a squeak coming from the back end over uneven roads. Dealer tells me it is a body flex noise and only way to repair is to remove spray in bed liner to access bolts. Dealer unwilling to reimbure to fix bed liner (Not Cheap) as though I planned for this to happen thus it is my fault and I am responsible for the cost to repair the damage their techs cause. Is there any help out there to advocate on my behalf or any other suggestions for what the noise may be. Gaskets already replaced on the back end shocks as well as all moving parts well greased.
  • Your filter is located on the driver's side front part of the engine and attaches to the oil cooler. You will have to drop the under engine cover to access. I installed a remote filter location system using AN fittings and mounted it under the fender well and towards the front bumper. Works great so I do not have to drop the cover anymore, plus now instead of 6.5 qts and have an 8 qt capacity along with a large filter for better filtration. Hope this helps
  • higdonchigdonc Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 Tundra Crew Cab 4WD , I have 20k miles on my truck. It has been doing the same thing. The first time it did it, I had pulled up to a red light and had come to a complete stop within a few seconds THUMP, I thought I had been rear ended, but there was no one behind me. I carried it back to the dealership and they could not find anything wrong, they said to keep an eye on it and it was logged in the system so if later, it got worse they would have a record. It has done this the whole time I have had this truck. Recently, I am getting a weird Thumpy feeling from the truck when I back up. It is due for its 20K check-up so maybe it will do it again for the Service dept. My gas milage has also declined I filled up today and only got 12.6 mpg. city/highway driving. So they had better figure it out.
    I'll keep you informed.
  • newellnewell Posts: 15
    I had the same problem my 2004 DC; there is a TSB for rear shock sqeaks-dealer should know!!; look back in this site around May/June 2004- there are more than one references to the Chirp/Sqeak; TSB solved my problem after 2 visits; You'll love there reasons and 1st soultions for my problem. Good luck.
    Mark/Cape Cod
  • c2rosac2rosa Posts: 76
    Check out:
    http://www.bloomberg.com/apps/news?pid=20601101&sid=anY3lVr30M4I&refer=japan

    on an article detailing continuing problems with the Toyota Tundra
  • ustazzafustazzaf Posts: 311
    It is unfortunate that a bunch of people that have never driven a Tundra are posting unfavorable comments. I had a Tundra that I traded only because I wanted a true 4 door. Never had a single problem, and as a professional mechanic, I offered to look at hundreds of problems with Toyotas. Suprise, they all got fixed before I had a chance to check them out. If someone complains about a vehicle, chances are they don't even own one.
  • I have a 2001 6 cyl manual shif long bed tundra that produces a squeek everytime I depress the clutch. Does anyone know where the squeek is coming from so that I an lube the #@$% out of it. I have tried numerous places and it still squeeks. Please help.
    P.S. It is our weekend vehicle that only has 37K miles on it. We love it because when we go camping, we can sleep in the 8 ft bed comfortably and we're off the damp ground. Plus, it is really easy to carry all the toys (quads, bikes, etc.) when we go to the desert as well.
  • I have a 2000 Tundra sr5. The K&N does not work for me in the winter. (MLPS, MN). I've had the K&N for 4 years. For the rest of the year I get about 1 mpg better around town. I do get 19 mpg+ on trip highway driving. My Truck has a bad manifold (Dealer won't fix) Second O2 sensor has failed( Dealer won't cover) and my front brakes also rotor problem.
  • Gary,

    Run by me again the oil filter upgrade you did with AN fittings. Did you do this by yourself? Where do I purchase this fitting? HOw much? Thanks.MAC
  • Hey folks,

    I need to know what's the best price (before tax & lic) for a regular cab v6 automatic, & aircon Tundra 06 along the Gulf States. I know Toyota just upped the rebate from $2000 to $3000 ( if you're a Toyota consumer).

    I hope I don't have to drive that far to get a few bucks savings. Thanks for the information. MAC
  • You may want to check your spare tire. I have the same problem with my 2000 Tundra when I drive over uneven or bumpy roads it squeks alot. I tried everything until I realized that the spare moves under the bed and squeaks because it is loose. Have the dealer look into the tightening system of the spare tire. Let me know if that fixes the problem.
  • Sure Mac no problem. I purchased the oil filter adapter and filter adapter heads from lofa industries. There web site is www.lofa.net. I did not buy their hoses because I would have had to find a machine shop to crimp the connections to their hoses since they do not do this. So I said hey, NHRA used AN fittings all the time for fuel and oil assemblies. So I called summit racing equipment which I had a catalog and ordered Russell endura series that swivel. I used AN12 fittings but you can use AN10, I just wanted the larger diameter hoses. The fittings off of the filter adapter that is mounted under the front frame and fender well on the drivers side are AN12s with a 45 degree angle and the AN12 fittings off of the adapter to the engine oil adapter are with a 90 angle. I then purchased 10 feet of Russell metal braided hoses AN12 which gives you a temp rating of 350 degrees plus along with their lube and sealant assembly kit and an AN12 wrench since the fittings are aluminum and you can damage them with a regular wrench. I then went to work and installed it myself and routed my hoses thru the drivers fender well by cutting a small hole in the rubber flap that attaches to the well. I also used grade 8 bolts, lock washers and fasteners to attach the filter adapter head to the frame just back of the front bumper. I purchased them online since I could not find them at Home Depot or Lowes. Anyway after all said the total cost was approx. $300 for everything. I use a Fram extended guard 7500 mile oil filter PH8A which holds one quart of oil and Mobil One extended life oil. Hope this helps. Gary
  • GAry,

    Man, that was awesome. Thanks. BTW, do you think Toyota will void my warranty if I go this route? Thanks
  • No I do not think so. I asked my service tech at my dealership and he said no. I do not know how Toyota could void the warranty, since you are increasing capacity and running a cooler oil supply. In addition, I purchased a cool can assembly from JC Whitney for about $25.00. This is a metal aluminum type heat sink that wraps around your filter and also acts as additional cooling plus it helps to protect my filter when driving down the road. Hope all this helps you and good luck. Gary
  • that is not necessarily true. I have posted negative comments about the tundra because I have experienced many problems with the one I OWN, I have had several toyotas in the past and haven't had nearly the problems with those. For example, both of the exhuast manifolds were warped on my tundra and toyota refused to fix one of them.(the other was fixed under warranty) it doesn't take a genius to figure out the manifold problem is a factory defect. I was able to get toyota to foot a little portion of the bill but it still cost me well over $500. imho, toyota's quality is starting to mirror that of the american made vehicles. and with their exorbitant prices, I will shop for a different brand the next time I look for a new rig.
This discussion has been closed.