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Toyota Tundra: Problems & Solutions

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  • I took it to the dealer today, I told them it was probably a sensor or switch or solenoid that kept the torque convertor from disengaging.

     They said that they don't work on components like that, they would just replace the whole transmission.

    I said, how much is that gonna cost? they said it was covered under the warranty (that is already expired), maybe they know something i don't.

    Sounds like an unofficial recall.

    I don't care, I'm getting a brand new transmission out of it.
  • I just got sick and tired of taking my truck back to the dealer for brakes. I finally had the front rotors turned again and install CarbonMetallic pad from "Performance Friction" and cured my brake problem. I now haul a camper and tow my 15ft boat behind me and have no brake problem. I've put on 50,000 miles with this set up and no rotor shake and pad's still look good. Very little dust also. About the transmission. I tried to talk to Toyota since I was a transmission rebuilder and told them about the slip into third gear under throttle and a severe bad you got which is very hard on all the bearing inside and also about the coasting problem you get going around a corner slow. The vehicle would go back into first gear and the overrun clutch would coast and slam back into gear when you applies throttle. They though I was some kind of dope. These so called engineers really don't know what the real world is like and that's why they have so many design changes as the public finds these faults. You think they would listen sometimes. You can't do anything about the transmission because is electronic but, what you can do is ease back into the throttle when you feel that coast feeling and also back off the throttle when going into third gear under heavy throttle. This will ease the hard shift into third. I'm going to go into my transmission one day the replace the third accumulator spring and drill out the third clutch apply hole. You know us mehanic's, we always wait til the last minute.
  • oagroagr Posts: 2
    Hey all, I've got a 2005 Dbl Cab SR5 4x4, and I love it. I love off-roading for it, I've got a great pic of me pulling my friends jeep out of the mud... however, that mud trip required a trip to the dealership.

    Beware, that alternator is mounted down low, protected by the skid plate, but not from any mud that may get splashed up there and right into the brushes... note to self, mud makes a better insulator than conductor!
  • I just got a 05 double cab. I am wondering about your mudding. were you realy throwing the mud with the tires or were you plowing into the deep holes? I do a LOT of mud driving. I don't drive real fast but a lot of my winter is driving in 4 to 8 inches of mud. I am a little concerned with you post. Ron
  • I also have an 04 tundra, when it is started then put in gear is when it sounds just like a diesel. It lasts only a couple of minutes, but I believe I can hear it slightly even when it is warm
    It started after it had over 10K miles on it. I took it to my local dealer and they said it was normal, and would not hurt longevity. Time will tell.
  • jossjoss Posts: 2
    Our 2004 Tundra (V6) is the one of the roughest riding pickups I have been in. I have ridden in 2 V8 that were almost as smooth as a car. Why is mine so rough? What's the ride like for you other V6 owners. I am extremely dissatisfied with mine!
    It is not a smooth ride on a smooth street, and heaven help if it is a rough one!
    thanks for any help/suggestions!
  • I currently own a 02 V8, but I had a 00 V6. Both have a carlike ride. You may want to get that suspension checked out.
  • z71billz71bill Posts: 2,000
    Maybe you have already checked you tire PSI - but that is one thing that can cause a ruff ride.
  • govner22govner22 Posts: 1
    Did you change your rotors or just your pads? I'm thinking about the Brembo rotors to stop the warping.
  • Coastie1,

    I have been an exclusive Toyota Driver for the last 25 Years. have had nothing but exceptional service from them. I have owned 77 Celicas and 81-83 long bed 4x4's and the first 4runners and I currently run a 90 4runner with 270,000 miles on it. Clutch gave out at 226,000 Ac went at 166,000 but I suspect the dealer screwed it up whilst relacing head gaskets that were prone to failing mine never did. I have been looking at the f-150 but the forum has scared me off I am afraid. I have been looking long and hard at the Sequoia as well. I, like you, am chasing the used ones. My suggestion is go for the Toyota's .My son and I travel and shoot compititions. Seems they (Sequoia) have some piddly issues when you chase the forum down.
    I will drive the Chevy's as well but I bet it'll be Toyota again.
  • oagr,

    I discovered the same thing with a 1986 4Runner after a prolonged play session in the mud and water. Make this note to yourself as well. 1983 Supras aren't good splash toys either. In my wilder days I caught an unsuspecting bus rider after a rain in San Antonio left a large pool of water near his stop. I got to pay a 225.00 stupid tax for cooking the altenator and being ornery.

    Dr yodt
  • lpeterslpeters Posts: 1
    Does anyone know how I can reset the "maintenance required" dash light on a 2005 Toyota Tundra?
  • cgrcgr Posts: 2
    I currently have a new 05 Tundra Double Cab 4X4 on order and it is in "Status A" at the plant. What is status "A" and how long should I expect until it is completed manufacturing and shipped to my dealership in Indianapolis?
  • idahoronidahoron Posts: 18
    I have checked my odometer several times now with a GPS. On a 50 mile trip the GPS showes 50 miles, the Tundra shows 48.5. Has anyone else checked the odometer? I need to check it at longer distances than 50 to 100 miles, but it looks to be off the same amount so far. Ron
  • dssnuffydssnuffy Posts: 39
    Do you still have the factory wheels and tires? Changing wheel diameter will affect the odometer reading. Also try checking the tire pressure and make sure it matches the recommended pressure. David S
  • Bought an 05 Tundra double cab. Owned it for 1 month and transmission had to be replaced! Also have a grinding/whistling sound. Of course, problems aren't solved on the first visit. As of now, truck was in shop for 10 days and I've owned it for 1 mth. 2 weeks. If I could do it over again, I would have bought a Dodge and saved alot of money. From what I understand, both are assembled in America!
    :lemon:
  • Problems;
    1. Auto transmission not engaging intermittently. Solution-got new transmission after 3 visits to dealer, and a total of 8 days in the shop. The fact that the check engine light came on, it wouldn't shift into fourth, slipped out of third, and had to be towed in finally caught their attention.
    2. On-going problem: Have a whistling/whine sound. Occurs like clockwork @ 2500 rpm and above. Most noticeable when punching it. Shop replaced TRD muffler gasket, fan clutch, belt, and now claims problem is in TRD exhaust. A couple of visits later, and I still have the :cry: problem. PLEASE HELP before I gut it and sell it for parts! :mad:
  • idahoronidahoron Posts: 18
    Yep, I have the factory tires and wheels. The pressure is right and everything looks ok. The odometer is just a little off, and I have checked it with two GPS units. Ron
  • idntnvuidntnvu Posts: 251
    I'm looking at trading in my '99 Exploder on a '00 Tundra SR5 4x2 access cab with 57k miles on it. My Ford is a 4x4, but I haven't had much luck with it. It's let me down several times in wet grass, so I don't think a 4x2 would be much worse. Also the gas mileage on the Ford is the same as the 4x2 V8 Tundra.

    My question is, what problems have been known for these trucks? I've seen transmission and brake issues named. Anything else? I noticed some rust on the one I'm looking at, is that common thing as well? Inside the front bumper on either side of the license plate bracket there is rust. I also noticed some rust stains (or else red mud stains) on the carpet inside the truck. The dealer says it's a Toyota Certified used truck, but it looks to me a lot like a flood victim.

    I was very impressed with the ride and drive of the truck. The price they want is $15,990. Carfax showed 2 previous owners, but was clean. Any advice? Thanks,
    idntnvu
  • You won't be sorry. I have a 2002 Tundra I bought new, now has 115K Two problems to look for. Brakes: You must go to a vented style rotor with metal pads to stop the shutter.

    Second, "Check Engine Light" for the oxygen sensors. The dealership says there are 2 of them, but I found 4, two on each exhaust. There is a recall on them but I missed it by mileage the first time and then again when Toyota extended it to 60,000 miles. About $450 to change both, but talking to others they agree there are 4. My light came on over 20,000 miles ago, I'm assuming it is one of the downstream sensors because my mile is still 16 with the K&N air filter. (another MUST).

    Good luck.
  • mrwilsonmrwilson Posts: 2
    Hello I have a 2002 Tundra I bought new. The brake pedal would pulse sate when braking hard or trying to stop going downhill. The dealer replaced the complete front brakes system ( I saw the bill over $1000) with larger one. I had to wait about a month for the brake kit to come in. The service rep. said they only get 2 kits a week and they only replace them if a customer complains.
  • do not be to happy that you received the new brakes it is not a blessing. I also have an 02 at about 17,000 same thing started happening to mine. Took it to clearwater toyo at about 33,000 and they stated the brakes were to small for the truck replaced all the calipers turned the drums,new backing plates, hardware, etc.etc.etc. now at 63,000 same problem. when i replace the brakes I am going to try ceramic rotors,those racing type pads. the problem I feel is that the rotors heat up to much. you can recut the rotors and problem goes away for awhile. You try what works for you but I'm going a different route next time.
  • Hoping someone has experience in changing the front corner signal light.

    My Left corner light cover was cracked and I bought a new one.

    The light appears to be anchored by a plastic arm with a philips screw, however, it is not a screw but rather a plastic push pin?

    Before I try to push it up and possibly crack one of the little plastic tabs, I was hoping someone might have a tip for safe and easy removal.

    Thanks.
  • victor3victor3 Posts: 15
    I am driving 2005 double cab Tundra. This is not a major problem, just a very annoying one. Even when sitting still idling, as well as when moving, there is a mild continuous vibration inside the cab. It is most noticeable in the steering wheel and the floor. Is this normal like the toyota technician said or is it a problem with a solution. Please help. I love the truck but can't stand the vibration.
    Thanks so much.
  • Good luck. I own a 2004 doble cab Tundra (purchased new in Nov of 2004) now has 4125 miles and holding (for the last month). Started with a vibration which I was told ba the dealership was normal. A month later after the vehicle suddenly darted in the right lane at 70 mph on the interstate; back to the dealership and they replaced the steering rack assembly. Another month passed and the vehicle again darted in the right hand lane. This time they told me everything was normal. I might be a fool, but I am not crazy. They $33,000 vehicle has sat in my garage for the last month and has not moved. Talked to a guy who has a 2005 Lexus, had similar lane switching problems, his was it the ABS getting a bad signal from the computer. They replaces his Lexus (he is worth $50 million); mine still sits, I am not worth anything. I am trying arbitration with Toyota, will keep you informed.
  • victor3victor3 Posts: 15
    Thank you for taking time to respond. This vibration problem is really starting to bother me like a nagging toothache. If I get enough info which refutes the toyota dealerships "this is normal" response, I will use it to try and produce some action on their part. Thanks again
  • I have a 2004 dual cab Tundra and do not have any mild vibrations. I cannot beleive any vibration would be normal. The problem lwilliams1 reported has shown up on a few 2004 Siennas. A couple of the Sienna owners are now also afraid to drive their vehicles and it seems to be related to the ABS getting the wrong signal from the ECU computer. I would consider it a serious matter and document everything related to it including dates, times and any conversations with service representatives from Toyota. You might even request your dealership provide you with a test drive in another 2005 Tundra, same model and take the service manager with you and record the differences. I would even go as far as to have the service manager sign a document setting out the differences. Stay on top of the issue as this is not in my humble opion normal. Best of luck.
  • victor3victor3 Posts: 15
    Thank you sarniasting. The more responses like yours, the more leverage I will have in hand when I go back to the dealership.
  • Sorry, messed up on last post. I have a 05 reg. cab V6 that when you get to 56 mph it makes a droning/exhaust sound that is very anoying. When holding at a steady speed is a constant up and down hmmm,hmmmm, noise. When you ease down on the gas just a little gets a lot louder. Also when I have my trailor hooked up is a lot worse. If you turn the OD off the noise is gone or get past 60 is gone. Dealer said they have had several complaints from other V6 owners but it was normal. Just wanted to ask other V6 owners if yours did this. Dealer called it a harmonic imbalance? Have not driven the truck on a long trip yet but this would get very annoying. Mine also had a AT. Truck has otherwise been fine and gets great gas mileage.
This discussion has been closed.