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Toyota Tundra: Problems & Solutions

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  • Hello,
    i have a 2000 tundra 4x4. The problems i have been having are, for one that everyone knows about, is the brakes, They VERY, VERY POOR, putting it politely. The O2 sensors go out. i have had to replace 3 out of the 4 on the truck at around i believe 140$ each. The trans. does not shift correctly. Having to send off the valve body to a performance shop. Cracks in the exhaust manifold. Drive shaft misalignment that causes shaking at certain speeds.
    Bought a toyota because i thought i was buying something that would last. Instead i bought a toyota that has caused me problems. Toyota does not fix anything because they figured out the problems after my truck was out off warranty. TOYOTA DOES NOT CARE. I will not own another TOYOTA! :mad: :lemon:
  • I too, had a 2000. You could turn the brake rotors and balance the tires at least once a week. Also had 2 O2 sensors to go. I know quite a few other folks that had 2000 models with no problems. I still think Toyota builds the best vehicles. Now if my second Tundra has a lot of problems will change my tune. BTW, my 2000 was bought used with high mileage so I dont know how it was driven or taken care of before. Also had the shaking at certain speeds but thought it was the tires, or what dealer blamed it on.
  • fatboy2kfatboy2k Posts: 1
    I have owned a 2001 V8 Access Cab gave to a friend and now have a 2004 Double Cab. The 2001 had 3 oxygen sensors go out (1up and 2 downstream), a master cylinder, and I have done a front brake job. I had the rotors turned as they had warped. Toyota has re-imbursed 253.00 for the upstream O2 sensor replacement on a notice I received in the mail. You must have saved all receipts from the work, and there is a mileage stipulation. The truck currently has 112000 on it and looks like it needs rotors turned again. I plan on replacing them with Wagner or Raybestos after market.
    Michelin LTX they stay balanced better than Goodyears and work very well on both trucks here in Texas.
    I have 43000 on the Double Cab and no problems what so ever! Have replaced the tires rims with 20" Hot Wheels and Michelin 55 series LTX.
  • uofm360uofm360 Posts: 13
    I have a 2000 Tundra V8 with 30,000 miles on it. I have been hearing that the oxygen sensors may go bad. I am wondering if there was a recall for this or how much does it cost to get them replaced of they go bad. Thanks
  • I too had the same experience when my truck hit 5000 miles the maintenance light had turned on and bothered me for a while until i read the manual yoou will find it on page 179. it has something to do with your keys being on the ignition. :)
  • FRIENDS,

    I have an 05 TUNDRA 4x4 the original tires are P265 70 16 and im thinking about changing it to LT 265 75 16. WOULD IT RUB?? i have stock suspension... the only difference is from 70 series to 75 series. and its also a little beafier.. P= passenger and LT= light trucks.

    thanx in advance
  • dano100dano100 Posts: 21
    I own a Dbl. Cab (2004) and have not experienced any vibration problems. My 3 minor problems are (1) a squeek from the rear bed area on the passengers side (2) the blower motor on the heater/air conditioning squeals intermittantly (3) the O2 sensor went bad at less than 5,000 miles.
  • checkmatecheckmate Posts: 5
    I dont know if i just got lucky or what.....i have been reading the forum for quite sometime now and all i have been seing is mostly negative on the 05 tundras. I dont know if im lucky but i have an 05 TUNDRA DBL cab 4x4 with 5000 mile on it and from my observation is it is perfect for me. no vibration, no cab noise,transmission is flawless even on very cold days, does not stall when u slam on the brakes, good power, O2 sensor is fine, gas mileage is decent, no funny exhaust noise, no bed noise, no shocks malfunctions or noise, engine temp is good, oil pressure is good, i dont know what else to mention but my 05 Tundra is very good. I dont know what kind of driving conditions you guys do but, i drive alot on highways and i dont tow anything. Is that a major actor that my truck is fine??....PLS tell me what to watch for on my truck cause reading all the inputs are scaring me......sometimes im thinking that i should have bought a Nissan Titan cause i go to their forums just for reading purpose, and everybody is very satisfied with their TITANS...
  • checkmatecheckmate Posts: 5
    coninuation from #135.

    BUT!!!! i only have one thing that is not good on my 05 TUNDRA, it happened twice now, when i first start it, the starter will stick and keep on turning but it dosent fire up even when i let go of the key...it would keep on turning untill i turn the key to off position and start it again then, shes fine............this ever happen to any of you???? pls let me know

    YOUR KINDNESS AND CONSIDERATION REGARDING THIS MATTER IS HIGHLY APPRECIATED. THANK YOU
  • idahoronidahoron Posts: 18
    I have about 3000 miles on my 05 DC. Mine is so far a great truck and I am happy with it. I drive it off road a little but that will become more as the hunting season starts. I have a shell on mine and I get 16.5 to 18 miles to the gallon. It depends a lot on my driving with this rig. So far I think it is a great ride. Ron
  • checkmatecheckmate Posts: 5
    Ron

    Its good to hear that your truck is working great for you. At 5000 miles, your maintenance light will turn on, its only there remind you its time for oil change. Now if you bring it to the dealer they will reset he light for you, but if you do your own oil change, youll have to open up your manual to page (i believe 179) on how to reset your maint. light. Now just incase this is how you do it. make sure your key is in off position, now press and hold the button in you speedometer mileage while turning the key to ACC position and hold it for 10 o 12 secs. until you see the mileage reads -000000 and then your maint. light is gone and been reseted.

    -mike
  • victor3victor3 Posts: 15
    Your mpg sounds great. I am getting about 13-14 mpg around town, have about 750 miles on the truck so far.
  • victor3victor3 Posts: 15
    I have read the exhaust system is the "vibration culprit" in many instances. If I were to change the exhaust, which would be best. I don't need a performance system. I'd prefer one that is quiet and not too hard on the wallet.

    Thanks for any input.
  • cheapisgoodcheapisgood Posts: 16
    I read your messages with interest. I don't have an answer for the "darting at 70 miles an hour" and that one sounds kind of scary. I would take that truck to a really good front end shop and see what they say.

    I have a 2001 Access cab and had a lot of problems with vibration after the truck hit about 30K miles. The only way to solve it without throwing a lot of your money away is as follows:

    1. Load balance the tires (not just a quick spin balance). It costs more, but is worth it.
    2. Have the front end aligned using DJ's Specs. You can find these on Tundrasolutions.com. The standard Toyota alignment specs are not the best and have too large of a margin for error. If you can't figure out the specs, give me your email and I will respond that way." :shades:

    Cheapisgood
  • dbl_cab_05dbl_cab_05 Posts: 1
    I own a 2005 Tundra Double Cab. This is my 3rd new Toyota. At about 7000 miles, cruising at 2000 rpm my engine light came on. She stalled before I reached the end of the off ramp. Had her towed to the dealer - the next day they ordered me a new engine. That was almost 6 weeks ago and she is still at the dealer waiting for more parts! So far they've ordered a short block, head, part of the intake and other various parts. I don't know the whole list because I haven't got her back yet. 3 pistons on one side have zero compression. They used a scope and saw one of my broken valves resting on the number 6 piston. They gave me a goofy story about a bolt coming loose in the intake near the throttle body. Sounds farfetched for 1 piston but impossible for 3. Anyone else have anything like this happen?
  • srpetersonsrpeterson Posts: 6
    My Tundra has 1000 mi. on it and also has a mild vibration and rumble. Dealer has had it 3 times in the last 5 weeks. They claimed it was the exhaust but when driving down the road I can shift it into neutral and I still have the vibration and rumble. They also claim that they have swapped all the axles and driveshafts, re-balanced tires, re-torqued motor mounts and tranny mounts (auto tranny). They now say that they are waiting for headquarters to come-up with a fix. Truck rides nice and is very comfortable, just hate the vibration and rumble.
  • victor3victor3 Posts: 15
    I am thinking the 2005 Tundra was a bad design year or the folks at the assembly plants are not paying attention.
  • phillip2phillip2 Posts: 1
    I have a 4x4 2005 SR5 Access Cab with VSC/16" HT tires and after trying 4Lo in the snow my left front wheel started to hop and bounce the entire fender...on a moderate grade/pavement/about 5 " snow..what is up? Are there any tricks or problems offroad while using the Tundra's 4x4?
  • toyotakentoyotaken Posts: 897
    Even on snow, the wheels side-to-side need to "scrub" or scrape in order to do any turning. You didn't describe what you were doing when it was shaking on that side of the truck, but I would guess that you were trying to turn when it happened. If that is the case, there was nothing wrong with the way the truck was working, just that you didn't have enough slippage under the tires for the wheels to be able to slide. Keep in mind that in 4wd, either hi or low, ANY time you turn, there either needs to be slippage under the tires or the tires will scrub as the Front and back set of wheels are forced to have the same number of revolutions and the front needs to travel further in a turn. I hope this helps.

    Ken
  • jnm1jnm1 Posts: 7
    I have a Tundra 2WD SR5 noticed all the stories about the snow and was wondering if there is any hidden secrets I can do to make my truck work a little better through the snow besides the original "sandbag way"....thanks for the help and all the other advice...Love it!! Jen ;)
  • toyotakentoyotaken Posts: 897
    This is coming from someone who has lived in Rochester and Buffalo for their whole life and has had experience driving in the conditions common in both cities in RWD, FWD and 4wd vehicles. In a rear wheel drive truck, the most significant thing that you can do to help your ability to drive in snow is get a good set of snow tires. It is an initial investment, but keep in mind you only put half of the miles on your summer tires and the same for the winter tires. So you only replace your tires half as often but have the security of the best tires for both conditions all of the time. Other than good snow tires and being a bit more gentle on the gas, sandbags help somewhat, but you shouldn't have too many troubles.

    Hope this helps.

    Ken
  • tundratoytundratoy Posts: 1
    I've owned my 05 Tundra for about a month now, and I've noticed that it has the exact same problem with the engine not starting on the first crank. I'ts happened to me three or four times already and it seems to only occur after the truck has been sitting a while. Other than that, it's been a great truck so far...
  • 2creative2creative Posts: 3
    After all the searching, I found someone else have the problem I am having on by 2004 Tundra DBL Cab. I have had my truck in the dealership since Feb 17 with low compression on the left bank. They originally blamed water in the fuel as what cause my problem. Since then I have had the fuel tested at a lab and have proved that conclusion wrong (1.5% water in fuel). I have been through the process with Gulf States Toyota and the Arbitration company denying my claim stating that I did not prove that it was a manufactures problem, just that the water did not cause the problem. Since then I have had my baby towed to another dealership to have them break the engine down.I am now waiting for the next conclusion of what actually caused the problem and if it will be covered under warranty. My truck is less than a year old with all oil changed done on time and with Amsoil Synthetic currently in the truck with only 11,150. I could really use any help that anyone could give to help me prove that this a manufactures problem and not mine. please email 2creative@hotpop.com or call me Sean @ 512-423-3133 CST
  • 2creative2creative Posts: 3
    There is a Toyota Service bulletin for a fuel suction tube that needs to be replaced.
  • I have a 2001 sr5 access cab 2wd v8 automatic with 85000 miles. The trans's overdrive planetaries [non-permissible content removed] the bed on the highway at ~85 miles an hour. Granted I drive fast and commute 100 miles a day BUT
    1) In your experience have you seen or heard of other tundra trans crapping out like this?
    2) get a Reman trans from the dealer or let AAMCO rebuild it?
  • I have a 2001 sr5 2wd v8 auto tundra with 85000 miles. The exhaust manifolds failed as did the o2 sensors. For those that are unaware - the warranty on emissions system is 90000. So get your truck to the dealer and get that stuff taken care of before it too late. My dealer fixed me up. Then the transmission exploded but thats another topic.....
  • I have that click in the dash too! I have not figured out what is doing it. Anybody find the root cause?
  • Has anybody out there had a dealer put this package (800 bucks) into their truck , and if so did it improve snow handling?
  • victor3victor3 Posts: 15
    Hi,

    The following are copies of several messages off Toyota Solutions forum, hope it helps:

    My Ticking Noise is Gone!

    Our Sequoia had been suffering from that slight ticking noise that's been talked about here. It's the one that appears to be coming from behind the centre console. More audible in cooler weather. Varies with the RPMs and can't be heard outside the vehicle.

    Well I had the truck in for an alignment and rotation on Saturday and I mentioned this noise to them. I also told them what I had read here about it possibly being due to the ground wire from the fuel injector wiring harness transmitting noise thru the firewall. Sequoias are pretty rare around here and they said they hadn't heard of that but would look. So about three hours later they call me and say the truck is ready.

    They moved the ground wire, straightened up some of the wiring in there while they were at it, and added some insulation around the throttle cable. Boom. Zero noise. Not reduced, but gone. Completely. Man, am I one happy puppy right now. All I can hear when I'm driving it is the sweet sound of that V-8.

    BTW, the work wasn't done where I bought the truck (they couldn't hear the sound), it was done at a dealer closer to me (same city), Tony Graham Lexus Toyota. Kudos to them!
    ------------------------------------
    AMAZING!!!! I just moved the ground wire on my '01 Sequoia from the firewall to one of the bolts on the power steering reservior bracket (my ground wire is actually mounted on the firewall on the passenger side of the engine)... started up the engine and NO MORE TICKING SOUND... something that I had been attributing to piston slap since I bought this crazy vehicle. Even took it out on the highway to be sure... all I hear is smooth running Toyota V8 sound now. Best 5-minute investment of time I think I've ever made on any car.

    THANKS!!
    ----------------------------------------------
    It worked!! No more ticking!!! I would never had believed it if I hadn't done it myself. Amazing!! Thank you thank you thank you!!! (If you cant' tell, this was really an anoying little issue for me)
  • txsparxtxsparx Posts: 1
    I own a 03 Step-side V8 with about 20k on it and I too have windows that rattle badly. Mine do so when they're between 3/4 inch down from the top until a third of the way down. At half way down they're tight again.
    Took it in and left it with a Toyota dealer in Arlington, Tx for a full day. Got it back at 6 that evening as they closed up. Drove it all of a half mile, hit a road with small bumps along it, windows started rattling just as bad as they ever had.
    A full day wasted with no change at all in the truck.
    I've had a couple of Ford trucks that did the same thing. It's a channel problem. Difference is that the Ford mechanics seemed to knew how to repair it and the Toy mechs didn't.
    There again it may be the dealer. I've bought 6 vehicles from his numerous brand lots here - 2 Fords, 2 Mercury's ( the Lemon Law was enforced on one of them) and 2 Mitsubishi's and I've never, EVER had any luck at all any with any of his service departments. Not once, to the point of where I won't even shop there any longer.
    I didn't purchase my current Toy from there and must have been feelin' my oats that day I took it in. They're less than a half-mile from my office and I thought, "Well, it's only replacing the window channels. The Ford guys had no trouble at all ...."
    Wrong. A waste of time. Shoulda known better.

    Soooo, anyone care to discuss engine lifter clattering/knocking when you punch it ?
This discussion has been closed.