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Toyota Tundra: Problems & Solutions

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  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    be nice...

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • rvboyrvboy Posts: 12
    Hey everyone,just bought a used 02 Tundra 3 months ago it now has 51,000 on it and yes I have that same pop/or clunk when you turn the wheel sharp.I had an old Nissian 4x4 that did the same thing it it was because they put solid bushing on,so they made a noise, Don;t have any brake problems in fact just had the rear brakes ajusted because the brake pedal went down to far and now the brakes are right there when I push the pedal. I still have the factory Bridgestone tires on and could get close to the 60,000 which is the life of the tire and they seem to be good tires but I'm going to put BF Goodrich tires on in the fall I live in Wisconsin !!! Going to buy a 27 foot travel trailer camper on Friday and the dry weight of the camper is 5,900 pounds can anyone tell me how there Tundra tows with all this weight.Thanks, I'm alittle stressed because I'm used to towing a 10ft popup camper and of cousre all my GM goons told me I should have gotten a bigger truck!! But consumer reports has the Tundra as the most reliable truck out there and I'm done with GM that's why I bought a Toyota .I'll keep you all posted !!!
  • I've been ignoring this squealing sound for over a year now, but I'm thinking it may be something serious. At first I thought it was maybe the belts squealing, but I have noticed that the squealing seems to become more pronounced into almost a chirp-like sound everytime the transmission shifts into a higher gear. I took it to the garage once to have them check it but the squealing seems to go away once the engine has been running for 20 minutes or so. So by the time I got it to the garage, it wasn't squealing anymore.

    Does this sound familiar to anyone? It is more of an embarassing problem than a problem that effects the operation of the truck. Everyone looks at me like my truck is going to fall apart when they hear me coming.

    Thanks.
  • kipmkipm Posts: 1
    I had a rattling problem too.. My cause was due to having inserted the Throttle body helix, and the K&N on my 2002.

    I actually had to chop down the intake tube.
    This was necessary because my fan was hitting it.

    From time to time my intake tube vibrates down and I hear a rattling.
    At first it's only a rattling while in gear.
    This was due to engine torque shifting.

    So I loosened the clamp, re-positioned the intake, and tightened the clamp like crazy.

    I wonder if you have the same problem... there is not much clearance there.
  • scsr52000scsr52000 Posts: 4
    The 2000 Tundra does'nt have an audible warning if you leave the headlights on. If the key is removed and the door is opened the headlights automatically turn off until the key is reinserted and turned on, even if the switch is turned on.
  • tundra15tundra15 Posts: 3
    Well, I actually saw that and shortened the tube my self, and no there is around 1-2inch clearance there. I would think thats enough??? I am so frustrated I dont know what to do anymore. :confuse:
  • scsr52000scsr52000 Posts: 4
    I have a 2000 sr5 4x2 w/75,000mi. Yes, the front brake rotors tend to warp. Better to replace them with cross-drilled or slotted rotors w/semi-metallic pads than to turn them. Also have a hairline crack in the exhaust manifold that produces a slight "ticking" noise. Performance is unaffected. No other problems so far. It is by far the best handling and fastest production truck i've driven and the seats are comfortable.
  • fastfjrfastfjr Posts: 11
    5900lbs is going to be tough. I'm towing my 20ft boat, with an 05 with 285HP. The boat, trailer and other gear come in around 5500lbs. Your going to know its back their. Make sure you have a tranny cooler installed, either from the factory or buy one thru TRD.
  • fastfjrfastfjr Posts: 11
    Did you ever get your tranny fluid back in??? Did'nt your momma every tell you, if it ain't broke don't fix it :P ;)
  • wordmulewordmule Posts: 2
    I have an 05 tundra double cab, SR5, TRD, with the transmission cooler. The truck has about 3k miles on it. I drove up to Hurricane Ridge in the Olympic Range recently with my family of 4 weighing in at about 435 pounds total and about 200 pounds of camping gear. This is a hill that gains about 5200 feet in 17 miles. At the steepest point it has a 7% grade. I actually read the manual and noted that it indicates you should leave it in drive when climbing towing etc. so that is what I did. Well the darn transmission over heat light came on so I pulled over to see what the manual had to say about it. It says to wait for the light to go out. So we wait about 10 min with the engine running as indicated but the light stays on so gas being what it is I turn the thing off and pop the hood to let the heat out while all manner of vehicles tootle on by no problem at all. At this point my personal over heat light is on. We wait another 15-20 min and the light is off so we continue on. I was treated politely by the service dept but the bottom line is that there is nothing wrong with my transmission. I have discovered that the normal operating range is 122-176 and the computer sets a code at 192 degrees. All we know is that mine was over 176 but under 192. I bought this truck with the idea that it would be bullet proof for the light duty use I would give it. My confidence in this truck is shot. This is a little hill compared to a lot of mountain passes many of which I intend to drive. Has anyone else had this sort of problem? Should I accept that there is nothing wrong with it?
  • mish1mish1 Posts: 2
    I'm planning on buying a new V8 Tundra with the new engine. Does anyone know the true fuel consumption of the RWD V8 in city? Also what about from zero to sixty? 7-8 seconds? I know for a fact that the new Tacoma reaches 60 in 7.1 seconds which is very impressive.
    Has anyone heard anything about Toyota putting diesel engines into Tundras?
  • toyotakentoyotaken Posts: 897
    Diesels are not scheduled to be avialable until the Tundras start being made in the facility in Texas that they are working on now. That will be when they re-design the model and have a Super-duty version available. At the same time or somewhere around the same time, they are also talking about having a hybrid version avail.

    Ken
  • idahoronidahoron Posts: 18
    I have a 05 DC TRD 4x4. I am getting 15 to17 just running around. I have made several 300 mile trips unloaded, but i have a camper shell, and I have gotten 19.67 a couple of times if I use 93 octane and set the cruse on 75. I have pulled my 1984 Kit compainion 19 foot camp trailer to the hills and got 13. This trip started out at 3800 feet elevation with a loss of elevation of 1000 feet in the first 6 miles. Then it went to 6000 feet in the course of about 75 miles. I turned off the over drive for the entire trip. I never got a high temp light and only once did I drop to 50 MPH on a steep spot. I don't know what the trailer weighs loaded but I have a equalizer hitch to help keep the whole thing moving along better. It pulls great and drives great unloaded or loaded. I am happy with this truck so far.
    Ron
  • mish1mish1 Posts: 2
    Do you know approximately when this new factory will be completed and also when will they redesign the Tundra? Diesel engines are really exciting but Japanese automakers never offered diesels here in the US in their cars only Isuzu.

    Mish
  • rvboyrvboy Posts: 12
    I'm surprised they didn't tell you to turn off the overdrive which is the button inside your shift lever. I just bought a used 02 Tundra and it has some bugs in it.I bought a Toyota because consumer reports said it was the most reliable truck out there.
    Had a GM before and got tierd of replacing 300 dollar wire harnesses because GM sucks. Just bought a 27ft camper dry weight is 5900 pounds I know the Tundra does not have the horsepower, but seems to tow it ok.I have come to the conclusion that no matter what type of vehicle we the consumer buy they all have some type of bugs in them which is a shame because of what we now have to pay for a new or used vehicle.
  • toyotakentoyotaken Posts: 897
    Estimated introduction for the redesign is mid '06 for the '07 model year.

    Ken
  • rvboyrvboy Posts: 12
    Thanks fastfjr, when I towed the 27ft camper home from the RV dealership I didn't have alot of horsepower.The guy who owned the truck before had towed a work trailer, so it has the factory trans cooler and he had put in a electric brake controler.Glad I spent the money on a good weight disributing hitch. I took the truck into a Toyota dealership to have all the fluids changed.
    The truck seemed to shift ok when towing but that 4.7 engine just doesn't have the power. But I'll take my Toyota over GM, FORD OR DODGE. My GM buddy said I should have gotten what he is now driving 6.0 desial duramax HD 2500 because he hauls his race car trailer. But I'm going with what consumer reports says and that would be TOYOTA TUNDRA IS THE MOST RELIABLE TRUCK OUT THERE !!!
    I just won't push no more then a 3-4 hour drive to the camp grounds. THANKS AGIAN !! RVBOY SAY'S TOYOTA RULES !!!
  • wordmulewordmule Posts: 2
    I think the main problem was that I had to go slow. 25-30 mph so it was hanging out in 2nd (i think) most of the time. Probably just not enough air flow to the cooler.
  • rvboyrvboy Posts: 12
    I am taking the new 27ft camper for an hour and half trip to a camp ground this weekend. No hills, but I'll get the first big test since dry weight is 5900 lbs and I'm sure with all the gear loaded we will be aleast up to 6500 lbs. Got all the fluids changed proably won't be pushing past 55mph will let you know if any of the idot lights come on.
    When I asked a buddy of mine's father who works at a Lexus dealership as a mechanicI should go with a Ford 150 or a Tundra he said no matter what the Tundra is the truck to go with. It's not a tow beast though.
    When we trade my wife's
    Ford Explorer in down the road I hope they have a heavy duty version of the Tundra with a bigger engine. For now I'm glad I own the Tundra I have.
  • evajevaj Posts: 1
    I too have a 2002 Tundra. At 6,000 miles I experienced terrible shuddering coming down a mountain road. I drove straight to the dealer. They rolled their eyes knowingly and told me my brake fluid was low and they would top me off. I drove away feeling like an idiot, However, a few weeks later the brakes were squealing so loudly that I went to the local brake shop because the nearest dealer is an hour away. Needless to say...they told me I narrowly missed rotor damage and I had to have the brakes replaced.

    About 2 months ago, at 80,000 miles I noticed the hard shift into 3rd gear seemed to be getting worse. I took the truck to the dealer and they had 2 people drive it and said there was nothing wrong. It has continued to be increasingly pronounced and today I noticed a vibration when accelerating. I was 20 miles from home when I lost forward momentum (sorry my girl interpretation) and I ended up calling for a tow. Don't know what the problem is yet...but seems to be the transmission.

    Aside from these two issues...it has run perfectly for 90,000 miles. I think the dealers could be more helpful, though, with the problems they obviously are aware of.
  • wcc1958wcc1958 Posts: 1
    Appreciate the info on the slotted rotors and semi mettalic pads. How much does that run? Also got screwed on the co2 sensors... past warranty.
  • mn_tundramn_tundra Posts: 1
    Get Powerslot rotors and Hawk (metallic!!) brake pads. You can get them through Performance Products, but I found them online even cheaper. $90 each for the rotors and $50 for the pads. That's cheaper than OEM stuff through Toyota or about the same as aftermarket stuff.

    The problem is that they undersized the pads on the early Tundras, causing overheating and warping of the rotors. The Hawk uses a better heat dissipating material than the OEM pads and the pad rotor combo grabs like my Beemer :). Also, after the brake in always heat temper any rotor about every 3 months. Do this by very heavy braking from highway speed on a cool rotor (freeway exit ramps work great). But.... never stop completely either while braking in or tempering your rotors. It creates a hot spot where the pad is and leads to warping. It'll help keep and rotor from warping

    I have 20K mi on the powerslot/hawk combo and no sign of any warping. Let's see; with a little homework, performance brakes for the price of aftermarket replacements?? It's a no brainer.

    BTW, NEVER use ceramic brake pads. The heat dissipating properties suck and warp rotors!! Vehicle mfgs use them, since they produce less brake dust and it's the big push at the auto parts store. That is unless you don't care about braking performance and prefer clean wheels. I myself just use a carwash.

    Oh and I'm sure most of you have heard about Toyota's double secret recall on the Tundra/Sequoia brakes. A set up like mine solves the problem for life, at about the same price, with improved performance.

    Good Luck and let me know if you have any questions!!
  • I have a 2000 Tundra on which the heater only has one speed - High. Low and medium do not work. Since there are only 2-wires to the fan, the speed control has to happen between the 3-position fan switch and the fan. I'm 99% sure its not the fan switch because I have another and both switches provide only high speed.

    Therefore, I assume there is fan speed/voltage regulator somewhere attached to a metal heatsink. I have no idea exactly what I'm looking for or where to look.

    I imagine this fan speed/voltage regulator is generic across many Toyotas. What is it? Where is it? Any ideas would be appreciated.
  • frzntndrafrzntndra Posts: 1
    Hello there

    I am new to this board, and have a ? about brake replacement. I am not satisfied with level of detail:(lack of color photos, vague descriptions of the brake replacement process), contained in the chilton's toyota tundra repair guide. I am wondering if anybody might know of a more customer friendly, detailed oriented book or website I might peruze for this tundra amateur "do it yourselfer?"

    thnx
  • mitundramitundra Posts: 2
    This may be a stupid question for those who have done this already, but what is the procedure for replacing the O2 Sensor on my 00 Tundra. I looked at these for a minute the other night and couldn't plainly see any head to mount a wrench on securely. Any help would be apprecitated.

    The history of my 2000 Tundra goes as follows. It is a SR5 4wd Access Cab V-8 that I purchased new in May of 2000. It had some vibration problems in the begining and was remedied with a couple of tire balancings. I installed new pads in the front at around 45000 miles. I had a transmission problem starting around 53000 miles. It would shift so hard it felt like it was going to blow then it would run fine. It was in the dealer several times for this and everytime they said they couldn't pinpoint the problem. It finaly went at 58000 miles an she was done. I was given a Matrix for a loaner while they replaced the tranny with a new one. This took them 4 weeks to get the tranny and another few days to fix. They had my truck for 27days and the bill would have been $2800 but it was covered under warrenty.

    I installed a set of Goodyear AT/D tires and they might has well have been square on this truck they drove like crap for two years till I couldn't stand it anymore. I replaced those with a set of Bridgstone Dueller HL alenzas and they are awesome. The parking brake seized around 80000 miles and then I developed a slight vibration at braking. I had the rears inspected and they said they were fine but wanted to charge over $400 to replace the front rotors and pads. I was able to get the best pads and two new rotors for $121 out the door and did it myself. This was done at 96000 miles along with changing the spark plugs and gear lubes. Unfortuantly I still have a slight vibration that I think is a warped rear drum. It has developed a slight exhaust leak that is likely a crack in the header.

    The truck now has 102000 miles and the check engine light just came on for the first time. I reset it and it was off for a day then came back on again. All in all it's been a great truck but has had more problems than any other of the 4 Toyotas I have owned. I want to dump this truck and get a new one but I want to wait to get the new plastic bed on the Tundra and I would really like diesel. I may be shopping for a domestic diesel soon if the price is right. I thought I would have 0 problems with this one to 120000 miles but it was not the case here, and miine is far better then alot of those on this and other websites.
    Hope somebody has an answer for the O2 Sensor replacement I figure I can do both around a hundred cheaper then the dealer can do one for. So what do I have to lose .
    Thanks.
    Dan
  • lauraflauraf Posts: 1
    Let me set YOU and every other Toyota owner straight about Toyota, Service Campaigns and their lack of response to the ball joint problem. I have a 02 Tundra and you can count me as AT LEAST case number 7. My ball joint failed on June 18 and I'm LUCKY, VERY LUCKY to be alive. Toyota's response to the problem is abmismal to say the least. I contacted headquarters, met with regional reps and all the same reply "we don't know anything about the recall." I asked if they would repair my vehicle with new "recall quality" parts and they said NO. I had to fight tooth and nail even to get them to replace the drivers side ball joint. You see I checked this problem out thoroughly and everyone else who has experienced the failure have been told that it must be something they did and THEY HAD TO PAY TO HAVE THEIR VEHICLE REPAIRED! Not only that, at least one case ended up having the second ball joint fail a year later. They say my vehicle "MAY" be involved in the UPCOMING service campaing. MAY BE INVOLVED!!! It already happened. How much more proof do they need that there is a problem? So in the end, all I could get them to do is replace the front ball joints with old parts. I'll still have to take the vehicle back to have them replaced again IF AND WHEN I receive my notice. It is already the middle of July. Has anyone yet to receive a notice? I am warning ALL Tundra owners. Be careful, extremely careful. You won't get any warning that the failure is going to happen. I had squeeking/grinding in the ball joint since my truck was 8 months old. It couldn't be serviced because it is a sealed joint. The squeaking/grinding comes and goes. At the time the joint failed, no squeeking/grinding. You see, the squeeking/grinding is that scratched joint wearing away the joint. If you are experiencing or have ever experienced this same sound or problem, you may just want to park your truck. That's what I have done. Once the ball joint goes, so does your brakes and unless you are lucky enough to have just turned into a parking lot when it happens, you may not live to tell your story. I'm waiting for the "Service Campaign" to reach my mail box. Once I get the new parts, the truck is going to be sold and I'll never buy another Toyota product again. Anyone can make a mistake but how they handle a problem is a true indicator of how good the company is. Toyota failed miserably in this department. Their actions lead me to believe that they are hiding or running from a very serious problem.

    Need to know more? You can see my complaint on the NHTSA web site. They have all my photos and a complete chronological report of the events and my attempt to get Toyota to acknowlege the defect.

    Now, quit defending Toyota. Obviously they have more than enough high powered lawyers doing that.
  • I have an 05 dbl cab (3400 mi.) with the same problem. Toyota says it's a normal thing and they have known about it since the late 90's but they do not have a fix for it. According to them it's just a thing you live with :(
  • Just got my dbl cab out of the shop for about the 4th time since march (only 3400 miles on it so far). I have spoken with the regional reps, received a case # etc. They are still claiming that the rumble I have is caused by the exhaust and there is no fix at this time. I asked for a damper to be placed on the exhaust to take away the vibration and the rep said that they didn't have anything like that and refused to go to an outside source to get one.

    I was also getting a bad vibration when taking off and a rubbing/scraping sound when turning. They installed some sort of anti-friction part in the rear end and re-lubed everything. This seems to have taken care of these problems (shouldn't have had them in the first place!)
  • raspyrx7raspyrx7 Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Tundra and I had the brake problems and the exhaust manifold problems too. I spent almost 2yrs fighting the brakes with them, I was one of the first to get the "fix" because I was ready to arbitrate it. For the most part its a good truck, but Toyota customer service is the worst I have ever experienced in my life... and I've had a handful of different brand cars. This exhaust manifold bit drives me through the roof... its a common problem, typically around 40k miles... how joyously convenient. They refuse to fix the problem, they refuse to show any level of concern on the phone or through their website. I have been spreadin the word about how crappy their customer service is, in hopes others don't get fooled like I did. Toyota customer service ended at the 3.0l V-6 head gasket issues. If anybody has any luck gettin their manifolds fixed outside of warranty I'd be surprised and happy for em... I'm fighting to get reimbursed for installing headers to fix their design flaw.
  • rvboyrvboy Posts: 12
    :mad: Hey everyone, I called Toyota today 7-18-05(1-800-331-4331) The recall started as of 7-15-05 and they are starting with the 01 Tundra's 1st and then 02-03-04.
    I just bought my 02 in March of this year, so it was a good thing I called because they did not have my vin# on file. I gave them all my info. and they said I should get a notice in the mail within a few months. I told them I tow a 6000 pound travel trailer with mine and this would not be cool for me to lose control of everything.
    They told me that the 1st sign of a bad ball joint would be vibration on the front end and then I should take it in, and that this is only hapenning to a few trucks.SO FAR !!!!
    I bought a Toyota because consumer reports shows it's the most reliable truck out there.Just my luck they now have there 1st major recall !!! Own a 94 Ford Explorer also, been through the Firestone tire recall.
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