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Toyota Tundra: Problems & Solutions



  • toyotakentoyotaken Posts: 897
    This is coming from someone who has lived in Rochester and Buffalo for their whole life and has had experience driving in the conditions common in both cities in RWD, FWD and 4wd vehicles. In a rear wheel drive truck, the most significant thing that you can do to help your ability to drive in snow is get a good set of snow tires. It is an initial investment, but keep in mind you only put half of the miles on your summer tires and the same for the winter tires. So you only replace your tires half as often but have the security of the best tires for both conditions all of the time. Other than good snow tires and being a bit more gentle on the gas, sandbags help somewhat, but you shouldn't have too many troubles.

    Hope this helps.

  • tundratoytundratoy Posts: 1
    I've owned my 05 Tundra for about a month now, and I've noticed that it has the exact same problem with the engine not starting on the first crank. I'ts happened to me three or four times already and it seems to only occur after the truck has been sitting a while. Other than that, it's been a great truck so far...
  • 2creative2creative Posts: 3
    After all the searching, I found someone else have the problem I am having on by 2004 Tundra DBL Cab. I have had my truck in the dealership since Feb 17 with low compression on the left bank. They originally blamed water in the fuel as what cause my problem. Since then I have had the fuel tested at a lab and have proved that conclusion wrong (1.5% water in fuel). I have been through the process with Gulf States Toyota and the Arbitration company denying my claim stating that I did not prove that it was a manufactures problem, just that the water did not cause the problem. Since then I have had my baby towed to another dealership to have them break the engine down.I am now waiting for the next conclusion of what actually caused the problem and if it will be covered under warranty. My truck is less than a year old with all oil changed done on time and with Amsoil Synthetic currently in the truck with only 11,150. I could really use any help that anyone could give to help me prove that this a manufactures problem and not mine. please email or call me Sean @ 512-423-3133 CST
  • 2creative2creative Posts: 3
    There is a Toyota Service bulletin for a fuel suction tube that needs to be replaced.
  • I have a 2001 sr5 access cab 2wd v8 automatic with 85000 miles. The trans's overdrive planetaries [non-permissible content removed] the bed on the highway at ~85 miles an hour. Granted I drive fast and commute 100 miles a day BUT
    1) In your experience have you seen or heard of other tundra trans crapping out like this?
    2) get a Reman trans from the dealer or let AAMCO rebuild it?
  • I have a 2001 sr5 2wd v8 auto tundra with 85000 miles. The exhaust manifolds failed as did the o2 sensors. For those that are unaware - the warranty on emissions system is 90000. So get your truck to the dealer and get that stuff taken care of before it too late. My dealer fixed me up. Then the transmission exploded but thats another topic.....
  • I have that click in the dash too! I have not figured out what is doing it. Anybody find the root cause?
  • Has anybody out there had a dealer put this package (800 bucks) into their truck , and if so did it improve snow handling?
  • victor3victor3 Posts: 15

    The following are copies of several messages off Toyota Solutions forum, hope it helps:

    My Ticking Noise is Gone!

    Our Sequoia had been suffering from that slight ticking noise that's been talked about here. It's the one that appears to be coming from behind the centre console. More audible in cooler weather. Varies with the RPMs and can't be heard outside the vehicle.

    Well I had the truck in for an alignment and rotation on Saturday and I mentioned this noise to them. I also told them what I had read here about it possibly being due to the ground wire from the fuel injector wiring harness transmitting noise thru the firewall. Sequoias are pretty rare around here and they said they hadn't heard of that but would look. So about three hours later they call me and say the truck is ready.

    They moved the ground wire, straightened up some of the wiring in there while they were at it, and added some insulation around the throttle cable. Boom. Zero noise. Not reduced, but gone. Completely. Man, am I one happy puppy right now. All I can hear when I'm driving it is the sweet sound of that V-8.

    BTW, the work wasn't done where I bought the truck (they couldn't hear the sound), it was done at a dealer closer to me (same city), Tony Graham Lexus Toyota. Kudos to them!
    AMAZING!!!! I just moved the ground wire on my '01 Sequoia from the firewall to one of the bolts on the power steering reservior bracket (my ground wire is actually mounted on the firewall on the passenger side of the engine)... started up the engine and NO MORE TICKING SOUND... something that I had been attributing to piston slap since I bought this crazy vehicle. Even took it out on the highway to be sure... all I hear is smooth running Toyota V8 sound now. Best 5-minute investment of time I think I've ever made on any car.

    It worked!! No more ticking!!! I would never had believed it if I hadn't done it myself. Amazing!! Thank you thank you thank you!!! (If you cant' tell, this was really an anoying little issue for me)
  • txsparxtxsparx Posts: 1
    I own a 03 Step-side V8 with about 20k on it and I too have windows that rattle badly. Mine do so when they're between 3/4 inch down from the top until a third of the way down. At half way down they're tight again.
    Took it in and left it with a Toyota dealer in Arlington, Tx for a full day. Got it back at 6 that evening as they closed up. Drove it all of a half mile, hit a road with small bumps along it, windows started rattling just as bad as they ever had.
    A full day wasted with no change at all in the truck.
    I've had a couple of Ford trucks that did the same thing. It's a channel problem. Difference is that the Ford mechanics seemed to knew how to repair it and the Toy mechs didn't.
    There again it may be the dealer. I've bought 6 vehicles from his numerous brand lots here - 2 Fords, 2 Mercury's ( the Lemon Law was enforced on one of them) and 2 Mitsubishi's and I've never, EVER had any luck at all any with any of his service departments. Not once, to the point of where I won't even shop there any longer.
    I didn't purchase my current Toy from there and must have been feelin' my oats that day I took it in. They're less than a half-mile from my office and I thought, "Well, it's only replacing the window channels. The Ford guys had no trouble at all ...."
    Wrong. A waste of time. Shoulda known better.

    Soooo, anyone care to discuss engine lifter clattering/knocking when you punch it ?
  • srpetersonsrpeterson Posts: 6
    New update on my 05 Doublecab. According to the service manager here is what the factory is claiming. The vibration is caused by the exhaust and is NORMAL. They were able to duplicate it in every Tundra Doublecab they used. The dual exhaust version Tundra had less noticeable vibration. It ONLY costs another $1200 to have mine changed over (yeah right).

    I still don't buy the idea that it is solely an exhaust problem. I feel and HEAR a vibration. You shouldn't hear a exhaust vibration in this truck at any speed other than possibly at lower intown speeds. I'm also getting a slight shimmy/shake when taking off from a stop.

    My next stop is at the dealer to test drive another Tundra. From there, depending on what happens on the test drive, I guess the factory reps are going to get a call.
  • astonmanastonman Posts: 3
    Twice yesterday the key would not turn to start my 2000 Tundra (93,000 miles). I had to turn the stearing wheel back and forth really far and keep working with the key for 2 or 3 minutes to get it freed up. Has anyone else had this problem and if so know of a solution short of having the thing torn into?
  • garyandersgaryanders Posts: 39
    I pretty sure you will be ok, I have 265 50 20 on my 04 double cab with 2wd. I originally had 285 50 20 when I purchased the truck and had to take it back to the dealership because I was getting a virbration and lo and behold the front tires were rubbing on the upper control arm. Toyota at one time was putting 285 50 20 on their texas edition trucks and stopped doing this for this reason. Hope this helps you.
  • connerconner Posts: 1
    i have a2001 tundra front brakes lasted for about 16k i asked the dealer why? they said it was a feature of the tundra, thats not a feature its a problem back brakes had no wear at all
  • fjp3fjp3 Posts: 1
    I've got an 04 dbl cab v8 that sounds like a coach's whistle on hard acceleration. The dealership said that it is a normal sound from the air going into the throttle-body. Anyone else have this sound?
  • jam123jam123 Posts: 2
    I am shocked to learn that Tundras have this chronic problem. I have a brand new 2005 Access with 502 miles on the Odometer. The truck is at the dealer. The have taken the engine apart and found a valve bent.

    The symtoms. I the truck was running fine then all of sudden in the morning it started to have a slight vibration every so often as if it was miss firing. Then at stops it would give a periodic jerk as if it is about to die and the rpm would drop, but then it would recover. Then later in the morning after driving maybe another 15 miles, the engine started to shake real violently and sounded real bad. Had it towed to the dealer.

    They are telling me that they found a loose nut in the #8 cylinder and that got wedged in the valve for all this to happen. This story is kind of similar to another post here. All inputs would be greatly appreciated.
  • 2creative2creative Posts: 3
    Update... My truck is now at the second dealership and has had the engine pulled. The cause of the problems has now been found. Sand in the engine!! The dealership and Gulf States have no idea how sand could have ended up in the engine. The fuel could not have caused the problem, the injectors would have clogged before this much sand could get in. The oil is not to blame, the sand is on top of the right bank pistons and not covered in oil. (I have great pics) Maybe the air filter, think again perfectly clean filter and intake hose to the engine clean as well. Toyotas conclusion to the sand being in the engine. NONE. Solution to the blown engine.... Toyota has now decided that the problem will be cover under Warranty or the "Goodwill Policy". The policy is that if they might could loose in court. It's best to fix the problem and hope it goes away. Which I probably will go away since my problem is fixed. Looking at the start of this chain with the other trucks problem. I personally do believe that a bolt is backing out of the air intake next to the throttle body and allowing dirt air into the engine and causing these problems. But what do I know , I'm not a mechanic or even claim to be. I'm just a Toyota owner who has been driving a Ford rental for 3 months...Good Luck
  • tundranatortundranator Posts: 14
    yes have the same problem on my 02 and toyota told me the same thing. I dont know if it is crap or not! when I put the K&N in i noticed the sound even more.
  • SylviaSylvia Posts: 1,636
    A reporter is looking to speak with owners of Chrysler, Saab, Toyota or Volkswagen vehicles who did all the scheduled maintenance on their vehicle and still experienced engine sludge within the warranty period within the past year. If this describes your situation, please respond by 6pm Eastern on Monday, May 23, 2005 to
    Thanks for your consideration,
    Jeannine Fallon
    Corporate Communications
  • garyandersgaryanders Posts: 39
    It is very hard for me to believe it is the exhaust. I have a 2004 doublecab and have not had a problem with it. If you have 285 50 20 tires then the front tires are rubbing on the upper control arms. Toyota went to 265 50 20 tires for this reason. Just stay on the dealership because the squeeky wheel gets the grease. Good luck.
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