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BMW 7-Series Maintenance and Repair

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  • garguygarguy Posts: 2
    Two month follow-up on my wife's 2002 745i valentine present. The car received a new engine after three weeks at the dealer. 500 miles on the new engine, 29K on odometer. I upgraded the NAV discs and put two new Pirelli tires on the front, my brother in law had just installed two on the rear. The engine sounds great and performs well. That is the good news. Within a week, the car would not move and power steering fluid poured out at a doctors appointment, the BMW tow plan took it back to the dealer for proper hose installation. Two weeks of blissfull driving ensued, then the car would not turn over, another BMW tow to the dealer for two new key fobs and new key module insert. One day later, my wife dared me to drive it to Asheville, NC on business. The car rode superbly for a coworker and myself on the four hour drive. After lunch with clients downtown the next day, the car would not turn over, another BMW tow to the Asheville, NC dealership and a taxi ride for my clients. I was told the car needed a fuel pump and would be ready the following week. My wife has driven a loaner (a 530 wagon) more than the 745. They did not have any cars available in Asheville, so I rented a Maxima (reimbursable I believe under the BMW tow plan)to get my coworker and me back to Raleigh. How I missed my gas guzzling but dependable GMC Denali. Now I was starting to understand where my wife was coming from, the inconveniece, embarrasment and frustration. She just wanted her Acura back. This is a good looking great driving machine when it runs. The service departments are trying very hard, I feel for them. I remember the comment the nice service lady made in Asheville when she referred to the conversation she had with my wifes service advisor in Chapel Hill. He said, "He bought his wife an 02 7 car", she replied, "Oh No, he didn't:, he said, "he has been very understanding with us". I read all the 02-03 7 car reports on the internet before purchasing. How can such a premier luxury sedan have so many problems. My wife's friend has a 04 745i with 55k miles and no problems. My brother in law had just minor service problems with the car, he is now in the 06 760 Li, I planned to purchase that car after his three year lease as an upgrade to the 02 7 out of manufacturer warranty in June 08. I don't think my wife will put of with this that long. What should I do?
  • bdr127bdr127 Posts: 950
    Well, you said you read all about the 02-03 7-series problems before buying.... Frankly, what did you expect? :confuse:

    BMW made so many changes in technology and software that had previously never had experience in real-world driving. BMW openly admitted their mistakes and even gave all 02 and 03 7's a full 6yr/100k warranty (which is a nice gesture, btw, IMO).

    Since then, however, the 7's have been great. No across-the-board issues and nothing out of the ordinary. It took them a year or two, but BMW has really done a nice job with the 7. If you're able to buy that great $120k (new) 760Li from your brother-in-law at lease end, I'd jump all over it. It is extremely unlikely you'd run into anything even close to your 2002.
  • Yeah, I bought the car using poker winnings because it was a perfectly clean 1994 740i with only 95,000 miles and it was $5,000. So I jumped at the deal, thinking of selling it before I went off the college (and hoping that I would not have to make a major repair until then). It did not work out completely as planned....

    I'm going to call the mechanic and repair the cost of: A- a new valve body or B-a totally new/rebuilt transmission, because if I can do the entire transmission for a similar price, it would help me to sell the car more easily/for more money when the time comes.
  • chingichingi Posts: 2
    my 1998 740il refuses to stay in the automatic trans mode unless i am mantaining a speed of 40 mph or higher so i have been forced to drive in manual for the last 4 months. i think its in the switch it self becous as soon as i switch it back to auto it kicks in. If this is the begaining of future problems can some one give me a heads up? or a way to resolve this super shilft problem.
  • bdr127bdr127 Posts: 950
    my 1998 740il refuses to stay in the automatic trans mode unless i am mantaining a speed of 40 mph or higher so i have been forced to drive in manual for the last 4 months. i think its in the switch it self becous as soon as i switch it back to auto it kicks in. If this is the begaining of future problems can some one give me a heads up? or a way to resolve this super shilft problem.

    According to the E38 owners manual, "A" stands for Adaptive and "M" stands for manual with regards to that switch.

    There are actually 3 driving modes, the third of which is "S" (Sport). When you are using "A" and put the gear in "4", it'll be in Sport mode... Basically it's just not using the 5th overdrive gear, so the rpms are revving up higher.

    After reading your post, I can't determine if you are utilizing A/M correctly, so I'll quote their functions from an E38 owners manual:

    "A - Adaptive Program: This is the initial position that transmission selects at every start. In the forward ranges, Adaptive Transmission Control automatically selects the most suitable control program from the available range........."

    "M - Manual Program: This program is for driving in a single gear (4th or 5th with the selector lever in Drive). The transmission then remains in the selected gear both when underway and when starting off. For instance, when you make a steep ascent with the selector lever in Position 2, then transmission refrains from executing undesired upshifts. The same principle applies during operation on ice-covered roads: By placing the selector lever in Position 3 you can move off gradually, and the transmission wil also suppress subsequent shifts into higher gears."

    So, to understand what you are saying, when you start the car you are putting it in "M" mode and "Drive" until it hits 40 mph? If that's the case, then you're probably trying to accelerate from a standstill in 4th or 5th gear... and that's not good for the engine. Could you please clarify?
  • suite7suite7 Posts: 1
    Unfortunately, this isn't a riddle. What does the air back light, the cruise control and the dsp have in common? The air bag light sensor light is on with an error code related to power supply, the cruise control stopped working (in stages - now the light won't even activate when the system is turned on but not engaged), and the dsp led went dim and now doesn't turn on. Does any of this sound familiar?
    Is the car safe to drive? I believe the air bags are inoperative while the light on the dash is lit.
    Help...
  • chingichingi Posts: 2
    i guss the problem i am having is with Adaptive program (thanks for the info(A)-Adaptive). no matter which program has been used last before cutting of the car,when it is started,it will go to manual program prior to placing it in gear(D)and the (M)lights up to the right of it. I normaly hold the button in the A(adaptive)position until i reach speeds of 40mph or more if not shortly after letting go of the button you feel the car automatically shift back into the manual mode. It will also shift to the manual mode at all most every complete stop right before excelleration. :confuse:
  • finn4finn4 Posts: 1
    i have a 2000 740il...just replaced the transmission at 175000 miles...problem was, right at 30 mph or what seemed to be between 2nd and 3rd gear, it felt like i was driving on rumble strips, then when it got through that speed it stopped...doesnt do it whem in M mode, just A mode...rplaced the trans witha rebuild...still doing it...it has to be electical...right?
  • HI, im looking for some information as to what would be the likely cause for my 90 750il to intermittantly loose power, it does it at cruising speeds mostly, feels like it runs on only 6 cylinders, i let off the gas and then the other cylinders catch on and its fine for a few minutes and then same thing, cuts down to 6 cyl, let off and then back to 12.. its very annoying. I have a complete parts car, but rather than just swapping parts would like to have an idea. The parts car is an 88 750il, will only move in reverse, any ideas what is wrong with the transmission? It will creep forward but will not shift and slips bad. Thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,999
    sounds like a "cranky" crankshaft sensor to me. I believe there are two, one for each bank of cylinders, so this makes some sense. Another idea might have to do with throttle control "motor".

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  • wratpackwratpack Posts: 1
    Can someone please help me with some step-by-step instructions as to how to remove the radio from the dash of a 1990 bmw 735il.
    Or better still, point me in the right direction for solving my problem. It looks like the radio (and cd) are working fine but there is zero sound from the speakers. All fuses are OK, I have not yet checked the powewr into the booster amp (rear lhs of trunk)as I do not have the plug layout.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,999
    I believe that you just pry off two tabs, one on either side of the radio and insert a small allen wrench of the proper size into each of the two holes. This activates a little cam that expands or contracts, allowing you to pull out the radio. If that system isn't on your 735 ( I could be thinking of the earlier ones), then it's probably removed using those slider tools you can buy at Autozone, etc.

    MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE RADIO CODE before you remove the radio!!!!!

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  • sjp1993sjp1993 Posts: 1
    Anyone please help, because BMW Dealer cannot. My 1998 740il shuts off when I press on the brake. In addition, when I put it in reverse it makes a loud knock. I took it to the dealer over 3 months ago (it is still there) and they cannot seem to figure out what is wrong with the car. At this point they told me they cannot fix it and wants me to pick it up. Please suggest who can fix this problem. Any suggestion is greatly appreciated.
  • rzorrillarzorrilla Posts: 1
    I have the same problem. Have you figure what is going on?

    r.zorrilla
  • tikocrtikocr Posts: 2
    Hello, yesterday I posted a question but I think it ended up in a different section of this forum, (I am new in town). I drive a 1991 BMW 750 iL and recently I had to replaced the P/S pump (used) and three original hoses. The strange thing is that at the beginning the power steering is hard and also makes a strange noise coming from somewhere bellow the left dashboard, but after a short while from driving the car, the power steering gets soft.
    Any ideas or suggestions of what to do about it? Your guidance will be very much appreciated.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,999
    You might check the power steering pump fluid level for openers.

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  • tikocrtikocr Posts: 2
    Thank you Mr. Shiftright for you advice. I will look into that, I will let you know what happened after is done. Thanks again
  • vicriosvicrios Posts: 2
    Did you replace the cup holder yourself? if so can you share how to do it? Thanx
  • prncessaoprncessao Posts: 2
    Hello I was reading over these messages because I also recently purchased a 2002 745i. I have had several issues that I just ignored and hoped they would go away since I have been under the impression my warranty is only 4yrs 50k miles and my car has 54k miles. I am i incorrect do I still have a warranty? Please help me. Because today I just can't take it and I know I probably can't afford right now to fix what has happened. The center console with the navi and all the bells is not ON. I don't know how it happened it was fine when I last drove it. Then a couple hours later I got back in the car to drive home and nothing I checked the fuses they all looked good turned the car on and off nothing. I don't know what is wrong. Please some one HELP! My husband is so upset because we paid so much money for this car called the Ultimate Driving Machine and it's been a nightmare especially since we traded are perfectly fine Mercedes 03 CLK. And got taken on the trade. :sick:
  • prncessaoprncessao Posts: 2
    Hello I was reading over these messages because I also recently purchased a 2002 745i. I have had several issues that I just ignored and hoped they would go away since I have been under the impression my warranty is only 4yrs 50k miles and my car has 54k miles. I am i incorrect do I still have a warranty? Please help me. Because today I just can't take it and I know I probably can't afford right now to fix what has happened. The center console with the navi and all the bells is not ON. I don't know how it happened it was fine when I last drove it. Then a couple hours later I got back in the car to drive home and nothing I checked the fuses they all looked good turned the car on and off nothing. I don't know what is wrong. Please some one HELP! My husband is so upset because we paid so much money for this car called the Ultimate Driving Machine and it's been a nightmare especially since we traded are perfectly fine Mercedes 03 CLK. And got taken on the trade.
  • texiana2texiana2 Posts: 1
    Does anyone know...My computer screen went blank (there are flashing lines going across it) and my radio will only stay on for 2 minutes, then I have to turn it off and on again for another 2 minutes. I took it in and they thought I was going to need a $2500 part for the computer that was NOT covered under the Certified warranty! They said it ties in with the computer prob. I'm bringing it in again today to have another person look at it. Anyone have any experiences with this sort of problem?
  • mevandemevande Posts: 190
    I have a 'mint' 1998 740i (Mint as in looks new). I have owned it for 3.5 years and it has 63K miles. What major expenditures should I look out for as the car goes to 100K miles? (and above)

    Thanks

    Mike
  • deepreddeepred Posts: 2
    I have a knocking noise that seems to be coming from the area that the intake manifold connects to the block. it is a 3.5 6 cyl. I am not certain this is where it is coming from but it seems to be. It isn't super loud, but it is certainly noticeable from 15 feet away from the car. It knocks at idle and increases accordingly with higher rpms, it doesn't really get any louder with an increase in throttle though. I was running 87 octane in it, just today I upped it to 93, could that have been it?. It has about 200,000 miles on it. I read so many thing on ignition coils and noisy injectors and rods, I really don't have a clue now. I am certainly hoping it isn't a rod. What are the characteristics of a knocking rod?
    do they knock on idle, I always thought they came in at higher rpms, or got louder with rpm increase.
    I tried taking off each plug wire one at a time and starting it but it was still present. I used a drumstick to my ear to locate it and it seemed a little less at the crackcase area and a louder around the intake area. Anyone that could help me I would greatly appreciate it.
  • deepreddeepred Posts: 2
    I narrowed this down to be what I believe is a very loud injector. anyone got any suggestions on how to fix this?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,999
    Well if it IS an injector and not a valve, you can try to clean it. I doubt injector cleaner will work, you may have to take it out to a specialty shop that has the proper cleaning tool for injectors.

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  • drgemaldrgemal Posts: 1
    Hi, I am going to pick up my dream car, 745li 2005 Alpine white. It only has 8,000 miles on it. I'm buying it for 60,000, is that a good price? It has the 4yr or 50,000 mile warranty on it, should I get the extended warranty? If so how much is it?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,999
    You can use Edmunds' own appraisal software. It's very good! Use the "price with options" choice for a more accurate number.

    http://www.edmunds.com/used/index.html

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  • sadatxsadatx Posts: 70
    Hello,

    Just got an 03 CPO 745 Li with abt 22k miles. Have had the vehicle for abt 3 weeks now. All is fine except the following.

    When the car has been running (driving around for 20 min or so), I hear a slight knock coming from somewhere under the hood when the car is in park or idle. I also note the rpm drops from the normal 0.5 to abt 0.25 momentarily (maybe a 1/2 second or so but its corrected on its own). The knock and drop in rpm happen at the same time. Any ideas what this can be? When the car is in motion, all is fine - very smooth.

    Also, I recently hit a pretty nasty bump in the road, causing some wheel alignment issues. I'm thinking of having some reputable tire center correct that, not the dealer. But friends have been telling me to go the dealer to get this corrected. Any input?

    Thanks.
  • the navigation system and radio buttons will not respond. screen on, radio can be changed on steering wheel, but cannot change with menu button to cd or am- and no navigation- is it just a fuse? thanks everyone
  • rvorbaurvorbau Posts: 3
    Have the same problem, Exactly! Never have taken to the dealer. Been searching for days in various forums to find a fix. Nothing out there. Please let me know what the second opinion was/is.

    Thanks
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